Currently having issues with my totem drop target. It fires up and down occasionally when the far right pop is hit. I’m thinking this is the only issue I have now and really the last thing I need to get fixed before it’s playing perfect. Anyone run into this problem before?

It might be that the vibrations from the pop bumper firing is causing the target to fall off the little ledge that holds the target up or even triggering the drop target's switch. The single drop target switch quite often causes issues on the B/W games. The switch actuator arm should sit below the target's tab that sticks out the back of the target; it's the tab that pushes the switch's actuator down triggering the switch (see the pic below). Equally it could be a dodgy switch that needs to be replaced.

Go into switch test mode and verify the switch is working correctly when the target is raised and lowered. Also test the target drops and raises correctly in solenoid test mode. Also when the target is up, try bumping the PF near the target to see if it'll fall without actually being hit. Also go into switch edge test and bump the PF to see if any switches are accidentally being triggered, do this both with the target up and down.

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I need on that list too . I definitely get them off the single. In fact, most of the time it pops over into the middle where I get credit for a ball lock haha.

And your protectors are the best!

Has Davi gotten back to anyone who's pm'd him?

Not yet. He mite take a couple days to get back to you.

Please add me to the list for one. They look great.

Anyone have a pic of wiring for green super ball button?

Check out post #7619 on this thread by @davi. Or you can remove the ceramic resistor and install a 12v bulb like I did.

While we are on the topic of the super ball button, the start and super ball button lamps are the last 2 I haven't replaced with LEDs. I initially made an attempt on the start button not fully knowing how it comes apart and stopped myself for fear of breaking something. Any tips on getting at these bulbs?

It's very easy, except some of the switch / lamp portions of the buttons twist out (counterclockwise) and some just snap in and out. I don't recall which was in my IJ, but I put LED's in both buttons. Not all LED's fit though, the diameter of the bulb hole is fairly small. PBL carries bulbs specifically for this: https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-3-led-slim-wedge-body.html

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll have to give it another go. I just did a big PBL order yesterday so I guess I'll put those on the list for the next order.

Hello Indy Owners!

I have a very specific question, I'm hoping that someone who watches this thread is as crazy as I am.

Has anyone hooked up the Jackpot PCB to the LED OCD PCB? I just installed the Jackpot PCB and it works fine, but the on/off transition is not smooth because of the LEDs. I have an LED OCD pcb installed on my Indy and there seems to be open slots on it. I am nervous to try random slots, so I'm wondering if someone else has done this and can give me some guidance. Thanks!

I got you.
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From the jackpot board, I have two cables labelled J-134 and J-137. A little hard to see with all the clutter in there around the LED OCD board, but J-137 is on the left, and J-134 is on the right.

Add me to the list Davi.
PM also sent.

Restore coming along well. Now just need some parts to finish up from Marco.

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How do you add a shaker motor to IJ? With a pinsound board?

Yes Pinsound

Anyone have an extra apron decal for center of him riding on horse so I don’t have to buy an entire set I don’t need?

Send me a message. I’m out of town but will be home overnight and will check tomorrow. I have some but not sure which one I have.

I had not seen clear rubbers before, how do they play compared to the other colors? I've only tried black and white so far.

I put titan clear rubber on almost all my games. Seems to last much longer than standard white or black rubber without cracking / splitting. Plays fine no complaints. Might be a bit lively on flippers but they sell low bounce option also.

I just put transparent perfect play silicone from PBL on most of my games and really like the way they play compared to traditional white\black rubber.

Making a mention of it here, I've hit some weird issue over the last couple days of my subway release continuously firing and then the machine eventually launching balls on a loop. I made a support thread here if you guys have any ideas:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-subway-release-continuously-firing-mini-pf-amp-idol-errors#post-7376265

I played some Deadpool tonight at the local pizza place and it was funny to see how it has a similar 3 drop target bank but they had the 30 years of table design knowledge to make sure to extend the playfield plastic out over it to prevent airballs.

Elite topper is so awesome and don’t have it lite yet. Worth the $$ compared to new Stern topper prices.

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Well worth it

Both are overpriced!...

I like the design, it fits in well with the cabinet, but yeah at that price I would expect it to be made out of something more robust than 3D printed parts. I'm just not a fan of seeing all those layer lines.

I didn't realize it was 3D printed until you pointed that out.... wow. They could have at least done some post processing or smoothing considering the price.

Does anyone know how too fix this sometimes when I open the door my test button doesn’t work at all the other 3 works fine every time when this happens it goes though all the test on the dmd very fast and u can’t stop it with any buttons then finely after awhile the test button will work again ,I know it’s not the buttons them self because it’s a new coin door I got for it ,is there anything I can try ,thanks for the help

I'd suspect that one of the switch wires is shorting and the game believes the diag switch is held down. The diag switches do go via the coin door interface board, so potentially the issue could be there as well. If you have another machine with the same board you could swap the boards to see if the issue follows the board or stays on IJ

Ok I will try another board from my other machine and find out if it's the board will let u know ,thanks

This happened last night. Before I dig into this, does anyone know how this scoop goes together? It’s been awhile and I can’t remember? I just want to know what I am getting into with repairing this thing? Do you think it’s a busted weld? Broken metal or just screws that came out? Any knowledge is appreciated. Thanks!

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Looks like the metal broke it should be up over the ball

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So this scoop is attached to the subway underneath? I am trying to assess the magnitude of this project.

Yes I think it's all one pics u will have too pull out from under the PF and see what happen ,I have never see this broke down like that before let us know what u find out

No, this is terrible advice.

Remove the plastic. You should be able to see/access the 2-3 screws that attach the scoop to the top of the playfield. If the scoop is broken, it’s a common part that you can source from parts suppliers.

Well I used a magnet to pull the ball out and then went back for the scoop. It is refreshing to see this! However I may have broken screws in the what I am guess will be t nuts. But this makes me feel better about this project!

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That's better news it's just that but I guess you will have too take most things off from the top of PF and see if u can get the screws out if they broke off

Should be able to tap them from top to drop into cabinet. Install new screws and t nut or likely take broken screw out of t nut and get new screws. Tap t nut back in, and you’re back in action.

Took 10 minutes to take down. Looks like wood screws. Going to fill with wood glue and tooth picks and put back together. Pretty simple project on the off chance this ever happens to anyone else.

Yes I think they screw into the wood of PF so fill with new wood and glue let dry and you should be good too go

Need some help... finally got my Indy up and running but while its idol and not playing every 3-4 minutes or so it resets and goes into testing for a few seconds only. Not sure why. Any clue?

Check the 5v circuit?

Hey folks,

I noticed the back box lights were all out, with the exception of the flashers. I opened it up and think I found the obvious problem. Any idea why this would have happened? I have LEDs on the GI of the playfield, but had not done the backbox yet.

I cleaned up the area, is it ok to keep using the game? Obviously I didn’t re-connect anything and can live without the backbox lights.

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A common issue. Incandescent lamps draw plenty of power and as the connection of the pins in the connector become poorer over time it increases the electrical resistance at the join, consequently generating lots of heat and eventually burning the connector.

To avoid this people will replace the incandescent lamps with LEDs as they draw less power, however ideally you’d replace the header pins and the connector to ensure a better connection. Note that pins and connectors are rated for a certain number of insertions and these games were only intended to be played for up to 5 years before being scrapped.

It will be possible to repair your board with a new header and you should replace the connector as well. Also make sure your PF and backbox GI are drawing power from the separate circuits- sometimes people will move the wires on the connectors (check the manual)

I fixed it. I believe the board wasn’t getting a good ground.

I've got a mushy right flipper that I was trying to diagnose, and need some help.

Flippers were rebuilt by previous owner and all mechanical parts look new. Left flipper button opto switch was a newer one, and the right side looked original, so I replaced the right side with a new opto. Some improvement, but wanted to try to see if I could make it better, so I swapped out the original fliptronics board with a new Rottendog. After powering it on the right flipper holds in the up position. Start a game, no response when the right flipper button is pressed. In test menu, the right flipper flips, but struggles to barely move up in the hold test. Do I have a bad/weak coil?

Mine was like that too when I restored it after replacing everything. Had to replace the flipper board in the backbox top left and it fixed my issue. Also make sure screws around all the backbox boards are tight to metal ground.