Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993Quoted from Billc479:Welcome! Make sure you look really close on that board, especially a few inches lower than the battery. It may not hurt to take the board out and give it a vinegar/alcohol wash just to make sure everything is neutralized.
IJ is a great game.
yes make sure and IJ is a great game all around with a lot of time it will look great again
Quoted from Billc479:Welcome! Make sure you look really close on that board, especially a few inches lower than the battery. It may not hurt to take the board out and give it a vinegar/alcohol wash just to make sure everything is neutralized.
IJ is a great game.
Thanks guys. Here is a closer look at the area. I’m sure someone’s much better-trained eye would pick something up that I miss.
762B1382-4815-4127-A807-B3A883936A37 (resized).jpegQuoted from SFBP36:Hi all. Just picked up my first IJPA yesterday. Appears to be an early production example. Gonna need some work, but it’s got good bones. Apparently it’s bees sitting in a warehouse for the past 25 years. One battery was just barely starting to leak, but the boards look clean. Happy to be part of the club! Merry Christmas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You've got an early sample game. You can tell by the stainless steel guides on The Path of Adventure. I've got the same sample game with those same stainless steel guides.
QSS
Quoted from SFBP36:Hi all. Just picked up my first IJPA yesterday. Appears to be an early production example. Gonna need some work, but it’s got good bones. Apparently it’s bees sitting in a warehouse for the past 25 years. One battery was just barely starting to leak, but the boards look clean. Happy to be part of the club! Merry Christmas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
excellent find
Thanks all. It’s in pretty rough shape but it’s all there. Will need a deep cleaning, new rubbers, switches, plastics etc. Had a scrambled DMD and was resetting like crazy, but reseating all ribbon cables, J101, J114, & J210, and properly grounding the power driver board seems to have fixed that. Got to play our first game today, but lots of lamps out, one jet not firing, few targets not registering etc. Thanks Pinwiki!
3A4CF8FA-609B-41A7-A712-DAB590993D6C (resized).jpegB05C05F2-BCD3-4FCA-9201-3C300B7013DE (resized).jpeg
Quoted from SFBP36:Thanks all. It’s in pretty rough shape but it’s all there. Will need a deep cleaning, new rubbers, switches, plastics etc. Had a scrambled DMD and was resetting like crazy, but reseating all ribbon cables, J101, J114, & J210, any properly grounding the power driver board seems to have fixed that. Got to play our first game today, but lots of lamps out, one jet not firing, few targets not registering etc. Thanks Pinwiki!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like it's been well well used and fixed half ass over all the years but if u redo everything inside and out it will be nice again
Quoted from SFBP36:Hi all. Just picked up my first IJPA yesterday. Appears to be an early production example. Gonna need some work, but it’s got good bones. Apparently it’s bees sitting in a warehouse for the past 25 years. One battery was just barely starting to leak, but the boards look clean. Happy to be part of the club! Merry Christmas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Can you please post a photo of the game number (top right in the backbox). I am trying to figure out how many games shipped with the metal POA siderails. Mine is something above 600 and it has lost plastic, lost plastic lamp board, white Super jackpot insert, jackpot cutouts in the DMD panel but no POA metal siderails and jackpot board lamp (I have just added an aftermarket one from pinsider Davi). Photos of it are available here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deal-of-the-week?gallery#g
Thank you.
Quoted from rygar:Can you please post a photo of the game number (top right in the backbox). I am trying to figure out how many games shipped with the metal POA siderails. Mine is something above 600 and it has lost plastic, lost plastic lamp board, white Super jackpot insert, jackpot cutouts in the DMD panel but no POA metal siderails and jackpot board lamp (I have just added an aftermarket one from pinsider Davi). Photos of it are available here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deal-of-the-week?gallery#g
Thank you.
Yeah can do when I return home.
Quoted from Fremen:Wondering what slope people have their games at? (Or if someone knows what is recommended?)
Maybe check posts of lots of people in this forum....?
Quoted from rygar:Can you please post a photo of the game number (top right in the backbox). I am trying to figure out how many games shipped with the metal POA siderails. Mine is something above 600 and it has lost plastic, lost plastic lamp board, white Super jackpot insert, jackpot cutouts in the DMD panel but no POA metal siderails and jackpot board lamp (I have just added an aftermarket one from pinsider Davi). Photos of it are available here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deal-of-the-week?gallery#g
Thank you.
Not sure if this is the area you mean?
FCAF6CBB-0372-4D81-96C4-71F8A2E6EF66 (resized).jpegQuoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Wow mine is as a lot further down the road in production. I didn’t know this was a thing. Very cool to know.
[quoted image]
Interesting. It looks like you've replaced all your original boards on your IJ with Rottendog boards. I did the same thing a few years ago and it made a big difference in how my game plays. The new boards changed my game from a sluggish, tired game and brought it back to life big time. Like it was brand new again.
Did you have the same experience?
QSS
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Interesting. It looks like you've replaced all your original boards on your IJ with Rottendog boards. I did the same thing a few years ago a it made a big difference in how my game plays. The new boards changed my game from a sluggish, tired game and brought it back to life big time. Like it was brand new again.
Did you have the same experience?
QSS
I know this wasn't a question for me, but I'll give my opinion. Once I noticed my power driver board had low voltage and needed to be capped, I figured I would go the rottendog route to be extra safe and keep my original board in storage. I was so happy with the result that I replaced all of my PCBs with Rottendog boards in the backbox area (pinsound + for the sound board), and couldn't be happier. I still have all of the originals, and have since capped the OG power driver board, but I would rather use the newer boards back there and put the wear on tear on them instead of the old boards.
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Interesting. It looks like you've replaced all your original boards on your IJ with Rottendog boards. I did the same thing a few years ago a it made a big difference in how my game plays. The new boards changed my game from a sluggish, tired game and brought it back to life big time. Like it was brand new again.
Did you have the same experience?
QSS
I was having voltage issues and reboots. So I ordered all the replacement boards and sent in all my old boards to be rebuilt. I didn't want my game down for months while waiting for the boards to be rebuilt. At that time I also had a TZ and TAF, the boards are pretty much all interchangeable. A few exceptions with TAF but I believe IJ and TZ are all the same other than the sound boards maybe diff. so I figured I would have backups for my other machines if a board failed in another machine. So once I got my IJ boards back from the repair shop; if I ran into a board issue with the other machines (which i did) it came in very useful to have backups. But long story short my IJ is working much better now.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I was having voltage issues and reboots. So I ordered all the replacement boards and sent in all my old boards to be rebuilt. I didn't want my game down for months while waiting for the boards to be rebuilt. At that time I also had a TZ and TAF, the boards are pretty much all interchangeable. A few exceptions with TAF but I believe IJ and TZ are all the same other than the sound boards maybe diff. so I figured I would have backups for my other machines if a board failed in another machine. So once I got my IJ boards back from the repair shop; if I ran into a board issue with the other machines (which i did) it came in very useful to have backups. But long story short my IJ is working much better now.
Much better in what regard?
Quoted from orlandu81:I know this wasn't a question for me, but I'll give my opinion. Once I noticed my power driver board had low voltage and needed to be capped, I figured I would go the rottendog route to be extra safe and keep my original board in storage. I was so happy with the result that I replaced all of my PCBs with Rottendog boards in the backbox area (pinsound + for the sound board), and couldn't be happier. I still have all of the originals, and have since capped the OG power driver board, but I would rather use the newer boards back there and put the wear on tear on them instead of the old boards.
Pinsound, right. I forget to mention that I used the Pinsound board for the sound board and Rottendog for the other boards on my game. I have all the originals stored in a box but I have never had then rebuilt or recapped.
QSS
Quoted from KornFreak28:Much better in what regard?
I thought my post was pretty self explanatory?
In regards that my GI headers on my original driver board were burnt to a crisp. So I was having GI flickering or out completely at times. Caps replaced makes flippers stronger. I had battery corrosion on the cpu board that was causing low voltages and reboots. I’m not a board expert but I think that contributes to the low voltage rebooting.
Original never rebuilt boards from games of this era would be unicorn. No matter how well a machine is taken care of the caps will eventually leak fail and cause damage.
Quoted from rygar:This one exactly. The number is 0569. Thanks!
You bet! Very interesting indeed.
Has anyone had any difficulty installing a color DMD in an early production game with the light board in the speaker panel?
Quoted from SFBP36:You bet! Very interesting indeed.
Has anyone had any difficulty installing a color DMD in an early production game with the light board in the speaker panel?
If you are going to install the color DMD you need to get a Jackpot Board such as this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16824
Since you have the early production light board, the depth of the board and bulbs will not clear the color DMD if you install it but the low profile board offered by Maro specialties is thin enough that it is compatible with a color DMD. You can see in my picture that the color DMD covers the entire area where the jackpot light board sits so you need a thin LED board to be able to fit between the color DMD and the backbox speaker panel
Since we’re on the topic of boards. My sound goes out completely on my IJ from time to time. Rebooting the game does usually take care of it. I do have a pinsound board but all the other are original and have not been repaired as far as I can tell. I completely restored my game a couple years ago but never had the boards gone through because everything was working. I just gave them a really good cleaning. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:Since we’re on the topic of boards. My sound goes out completely on my IJ from time to time. Rebooting the game does usually take care of it. I do have a pinsound board but all the other are original and have not been repaired as far as I can tell. I completely restored my game a couple years ago but never had the boards gone through because everything was working. I just gave them a really good cleaning. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Sounds like you may have some power issues. I was having power issues (flippers would cause game to reset) with my original boards and that's why I installed a new board. I didn't feel like sending the originals out to be rebuilt so I bought all new boards for the game. I also liked the fact that the new board didn't need batteries so I didn't have to change them out every year.
Even with the new Rottendog boards in place I installed an additional supplemental power source to make sure I had no issues with power requirements for things like the Pinsound board, Color DMD, ect. Everything has worked perfectly for years now.
QSS
20230101_113431 (resized).jpg20230101_113451 (resized).jpg
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:If you are going to install the color DMD you need to get a Jackpot Board such as this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16824
Since you have the early production light board, the depth of the board and bulbs will not clear the color DMD if you install it but the low profile board offered by Maro specialties is thin enough that it is compatible with a color DMD. You can see in my picture that the color DMD covers the entire area where the jackpot light board sits so you need a thin LED board to be able to fit between the color DMD and the backbox speaker panel
QSS
[quoted image]
Awesome, thanks!
Turned on the machine and notised that the mini playfield and the idol didn't do it's usual thing.
Went into test and this is what came up.
Not sure what suddenly happend.
20230108_222442 (resized).jpg20230108_222451 (resized).jpg20230108_222456 (resized).jpg20230108_222500 (resized).jpg20230108_222540 (resized).jpg20230108_222622 (resized).jpgLooks a lot like a error I got after frying on of the boards under the playfield, while changing some LED bulbs. Resolved by replacing LM339 on the A-13901-2 board (under playfield). Does this opto board looks burned?
Quoted from Joost996me:Fellow Indy fans,
Created a problem here coverting my IJ to LED. Was stupid enough to swap the bulbs with power on and most likely created a short, burning the U3 LM339 on the 10 opt board. Fuse 116 also burned losing 12V.
Got 12V back after installing a new 116. Swapped the 10 opto board with a new Pindora box 10 opto. But no luck...
At startup i get row 1 stuck to GND and in the switch i see row 1 and 3 closed. This disapears after removeing the J206/207 and J209/209 from the MPU. A MPU test with a wire shows a good matrix, so in my opinion, not a MPU problem.
No obvious grounds/shorts at the row1-3 switch under the playfield...
Idol test fails, MPF test passes.
Kind of stuck in diagnostics here, who can guide me on my path of adventure?
Help is apreciated!
Update: swappend the MPU and still same problem. So the MPU can be excluded!
Updat2: It dissapears when i unplug the A13901 Opto Ramp Board...
Might that be the trouble?
Quoted from Joost996me:Looks a lot like a error I got after frying on of the boards under the playfield, while changing some LED bulbs. Resolved by replacing LM339 on the A-13901-2 board (under playfield). Does this opto board looks burned?
Thanks. I'll check it out.I hadn't done anything in those ares prior when this happend.
Quoted from BentleyBear:Thanks. I'll check it out.I hadn't done anything in those ares prior when this happend.
Maybe just failed spontaneously? Almost 30 years old 
Hey guys, coming along shopping out this Indy. Can someone post a closeup pic or two of how the plastic is mounted on top of the right ramp? Are there plastic spacers? Right now if I put that plastic on, it will touch the diverter. The ramp is from Marco, if that matters. This thing was pretty rough when I got it, and I’m not 100% sure on this part. Thanks!
649B4FF7-DD44-4B43-BB7E-24993CD382A0 (resized).jpegDA2F700E-7DDF-4870-9B75-7DDC7BF19FF8 (resized).jpegQuoted from Gundam_Pilot_:Small screws with black spacers. Locked in with nylon locking nuts. Looks like 6/32
[quoted image][quoted image]
Perfect, thanks!
This obvious HUO example with factory thumb wear patina on the coin slots needed very little in the way of rehab. This was one of those legless project pins that popped up on facebook in STL over the summer.
Just a few odds and ends and it's completed.
Stunning factory thumb wear on the coin door. This fine patina an obvious indicator that this is HUO308350831_158091633565189_4878686317361193321_n (resized).jpg308407239_158091626898523_5371726173324211162_n (resized).jpg308412199_158091620231857_8050998220527700133_n (resized).jpgf4cef58db7b2ea7d9d68ad2ebab06ca17daa1bbe (resized).jpgf56252c213a09be1e3c5aed1d953778c6ca2c2db (resized).jpgIMG_0539 (resized).jpgIMG_0540 (resized).jpgIMG_0591 (resized).jpgIMG_0644 (resized).jpg69396132655__D1201AF8-6C18-4DD8-890B-6E6E8423E6D7 (resized).jpg28a7d18b1c514e3e31ebd346eccc78519e9cc704 (resized).jpgac7fe08d97d4412a1001c281bb3da420d06956da (resized).jpg
Quoted from The_Pump_House:This obvious HUO example with factory thumb wear patina on the coin slots needed very little in the way of rehab. This was one of those legless project pins that popped up on facebook in STL over the summer.
Just a few odds and ends and it's completed.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from SFBP36:If someone gets a chance, can you post a pic of how your Mode Start lamp is wired? Mines hacked and not working… Thank you.
Here u go
CD05D890-6246-4EED-8D19-4F54EE2115C2 (resized).jpegQuoted from SFBP36:If someone gets a chance, can you post a pic of how your Mode Start lamp is wired? Mines hacked and not working… Thank you.
Here u go hope this helps
94F8088A-EDF9-4319-82A9-017EA3A6C164 (resized).jpegBeen spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.
Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.
Quoted from SiN13:Been spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.
Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.
I can’t remember who made them but the thicker longer plastic over the 3 bank is magical! The single drop one isn’t really necessary imo. But if you can find or someone can help you get the three bank, definitely grab one.
Quoted from SiN13:Been spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.
Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.
That's odd my game doesn't do the air ball on the 3 bank so I guess some games do and some don't
Quoted from SiN13:Been spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.
Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.
If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Quoted from Davi:If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Oh nice. I was talking with someone on twitter last night that got one of yours a year ago but I wasn't sure if you were still producing them so I started prototyping a solution on the 3d printer this morning. I'd love to get one of yours when they are ready.
Quoted from Davi:If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Can I get one of those please?
Quoted from Davi:If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Hi! Am interested in one pack please! Contact me when you want me to pay you 
Thanks
Quoted from Davi:If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Awesome! So glad to see this!! I think I'm on the list already. If not please add me! Thank you!
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
Collingwood, ON
Lafayette, CA
Pyongyang
Budapest
Dubai