Quoted from dmacy:Use system 11 trim from PL. Perfect fit.
Thanks guys
Quoted from patje:I mean, lights for this[quoted image]
I back lit my Addams Family with 2 led light strips 12v on a separate power source. Also did my Congo in a similar way.
I own this same plastic you have for my IJ and plain on doing this same thing to it.
To me it looks really cool and helps light up dark areas in the back of the playfield in the machines.
That is what i was searching for, thank you. But do i have to put seperate power source if i do that?
And wow... very nice pinballs you have!!! I allso got an addams family, but yours is much nicer. Freat job
Quoted from patje:That is what i was searching for, thank you. But do i have to put seperate power source if i do that?
And wow... very nice pinballs you have!!! I allso got an addams family, but yours is much nicer. Freat job
I did separate power source so that it doesn't over load the driver board. I didn't at first on my Addams Family and it would blow a fuse after awhile once the machine was turned on. It's just a better solution to separate them.
Quoted from PinballGalore:Here are my new ramps and bolts from pinball plating
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It’s not gold is it?
Quoted from pingod:Finally installed the Elite topper and a few other mods.
I will call it done for now, lol.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks sweet bud nice going
Quoted from PinballGalore:Brass, but I call it gold
Yes brass is kind of gold, I know (thought it was chrome). Brass looks great! Looking for someone in Netherlands who can do brass (not too overpriced)....
I have an odd issue. I just installed Pinsound in my IJ. I need to unseat the J1 cabinet speaker and reseat it after turning on the game for any bass/having the cabinet (and Polk powered sub) to come on. I have the same set up on my Creature and don’t have this issue. The only difference being IJ is DCS.
Anything I’m missing?
Quoted from dmacy:I have an odd issue. I just installed Pinsound in my IJ. I need to unseat the J1 cabinet speaker and reseat it after turning on the game for any bass/having the cabinet (and Polk powered sub) to come on. I have the same set up on my Creature and don’t have this issue. The only difference being IJ is DCS.
Anything I’m missing?
Might be a loose connection or burnt wire in the connector. Replace or redo the connector and that might fix it. Loose or burnt wires on IJ connectors seems to be a pretty common problem. I've a had a few on my game over the years.
QSS
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Might be a loose connection or burnt wire in the connector. Replace or redo the connector and that might fix it. Loose or burnt wires on IJ connectors seems to be a pretty common problem. I've a had a few on my game over the years.
QSS
Thanks but that is not the issue. I am pretty well versed in these things.
After the original plating became corroded, the previous owner of my IJ decided to "refresh" the wireforms by spray painting them gold.
What I inherited was a machine full of fine gold dust, and ugly flaking ball trails.
After stripping the paint and cleaning the corrosion they're nice and shiny now, but the thin brass plating has all but worn away on my wireforms. I've been thinking of refreshing the plating for years now.
The question is for IJ owners that have done this. How much did it cost you for the four habbitrail pieces? I'm starting to fish for quotes on prices, but I have no idea what's "fair," and I fear local specialty and automotive places are quoting fairly high. Not looking to do the rails, gun, or lockbar or anything. Just the wireforms.
Some people may suggest "Try sending to so-and-so in such-and-such state!" But being in Canada it is often not very practical to ship fragile and unwieldy items across borders. Any Canada-specific suggestions, though - feel free!
Thanks!
Quoted from AaronZOOM:After the original plating became corroded, the previous owner of my IJ decided to "refresh" the wireforms by spray painting them gold.
What I inherited was a machine full of fine gold dust, and ugly flaking ball trails.
After stripping the paint and cleaning the corrosion they're nice and shiny now, but the thin brass plating has all but worn away on my wireforms. I've been thinking of refreshing the plating for years now.
The question is for IJ owners that have done this. How much did it cost you for the four habbitrail pieces? I'm starting to fish for quotes on prices, but I have no idea what's "fair," and I fear local specialty and automotive places are quoting fairly high. Not looking to do the rails, gun, or lockbar or anything. Just the wireforms.
Some people may suggest "Try sending to so-and-so in such-and-such state!" But being in Canada it is often not very practical to ship fragile and unwieldy items across borders. Any Canada-specific suggestions, though - feel free!
Thanks!
See my photos above from this past weekend. Got them done at pinball plating. I live in Israel and traveling across the world, they were packed well and made it just fine. Send in your part, have it exchanged and get the new ones shipped usually same day. I chose usps, and had it declared as a paint job for parts sent out - and paid no taxes.
I think total for in came to 400 odd usd including shipping which was 90 bucks all the way to the Middle East. Not sure precisely as I added some other items for other games in that order
I don’t recall the costs to brass plate my wireforms, but I’d recommend doing a few more things if you’re going to send anything out. Talk to Chris at Hot Rod Arcade and he can give you an idea on shipping. I also did the wireform at apron, shooter lane, left lower plate at apron, and the wire gate for narrow escape.
Looks like the cost itself is $350 less the ride. https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/williams-indiana-jones-the-pinball-adventure-ij
And I finally installed side blades and ramp decals after way too many years when I installed Pinsound. Wow, you guys were right. And thanks to the beelzeboob boob army, I’m glad I went with Endprodukt’s mix.
6BDAF3B2-64CE-4627-908B-DA13F4E0F37E (resized).jpeg661C3534-6FB8-4074-9A33-B88E7F36E0CA (resized).jpeg30119412-4B08-4E83-8E56-6F96C7DC936F (resized).jpeg9A03985F-90C2-46D2-AF73-6033F13FD40F (resized).jpegEB9B0723-ABB7-4839-87CF-2E78D93A2CEF (resized).jpegIf anyone is still looking for a replacement IJ apron I just created a CAD file for it using my own for dimensions. Sent it off to SendCutSend for cutting/bending so it'll probably be a few weeks until I'm able to confirm fit/hole placement. Once it's validated I can provide the Fusion 360 file or DXF file for whoever wants it. Designed for 18awg cold rolled steel.
IJ Apron (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Mike_M:If anyone is still looking for an IJ apron I created a CAD file for it.
I see Indiana Jones aprons are already available for sale.
Indy apron (resized).png
Quoted from littlecammi:I see Indiana Jones aprons are already available for sale.
Well now you tell me! All that time down the drain....
Wormhole Pinball is streaming Indiana Jones tonight on Twitch starting at 7:30 central!
We’ll hold a single strike knockout tournament to determine archaeological dominance … and be ridiculous, I imagine.
Hi, I have a squeaking noise sound from my idol (in fact from the gears or something below the PF). All works perfectly but the sound (during turning) is strange...
I have disassembled the motor from the playfield and also disassembled, it's giving the same sound (so it's not caused by something above playfield....).,
Does something in the gears need oil?
The gear is not serviceable. But a NOS replacement -> no noises
Any guidance on this one will be appreciated.... I have been going through a newer Indy to my collection and started by swapping out all of my boards to get serviced.... during that process I am finding that the solenoid circuit is blowing F112, which I suspected was due to a bad connection at J113. Once I resolved that I had the 5 AMP fuse blow at the power box. I figure I should prob start with this first and work my way back... Any insight would be helpful to get this wiring issue sorted... It was originally an import at 220.
Image (2) (resized).jpegImage (3) (resized).jpegImage (4) (resized).jpegImage (5) (resized).jpegQuoted from St0n3PiraT3:Any guidance on this one will be appreciated.... I have been going through a newer Indy to my collection and started by swapping out all of my boards to get serviced.... during that process I am finding that the solenoid circuit is blowing F112, which I suspected was due to a bad connection at J113. Once I resolved that I had the 5 AMP fuse blow at the power box. I figure I should prob start with this first and work my way back... Any insight would be helpful to get this wiring issue sorted... It was originally an import at 220.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The 5 amp fuse is for 220-240V, you need to swap this out for a 8 Amp fuse (see the below WPC wiring diagram for 120V).
The 9 pin transformer connector you have pictured is used to configure the specific voltage input. It's most unfortunate that they've cut the wires to achieve the same thing. I'd suggest rejoining the wires from the transformer to the 9 pin connector and then wiring the jumpers (see the circled section in the diagram) on the connector for 120V.
WPC US power wiring (resized).jpgThank you very much @Manny65, I will do that and clean up what is going on around the transformer... I will compare to my other WPC 120 games pertaining to the jumpers.. Unfortunately this is the first issue, there are others I need to work through... theres an interesting one with a pop bumper switch just hanging out in no mans land not even attached to the playfield... one thing at a time...
Quoted from St0n3PiraT3:Thank you very much Manny65, I will do that and clean up what is going on around the transformer... I will compare to my other WPC 120 games pertaining to the jumpers.. Unfortunately this is the first issue, there are others I need to work through... theres an interesting one with a pop bumper switch just hanging out in no mans land not even attached to the playfield... one thing at a time...
Once you've reconnected the cut wires (shouldn't be difficult as you just need to match up the specific colours), below is what your 9 pin jumpers should like for 120V. Oh the other thing to note in changing your 220V import back to 120V power, is that you'll have a 260V Varistor in the power box that will need to be replaced with a 130V Varistor.
Quoted from Manny65:Once you've reconnected the cut wires (shouldn't be difficult as you just need to match up the specific colours), below is what your 9 pin jumpers should like for 120V. Oh the other thing to note in changing your 220V import back to 120V power, is that you'll have a 260V Varistor in the power box that will need to be replaced with a 130V Varistor.
[quoted image]
Thanks for saving me time....and providing the proper pin labeling... I was going to check on that Varistor as well ... when I turned it on and things went amuck there was defiantly a smell associated, fuse has been replaced and I think I need to put the 9 pin connector on order and will pick up two extra 130V Varistors to have on hand...
Quoted from MMP:You're missing a U-shaped metal piece between the ramp and plastic.
[quoted image]
Anyone know the part number for this metal piece?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from The_Pump_House:Anyone know the part number for this metal piece?[quoted image]
It'll most unlikely be hard to find if you are wanting to buy one
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Anyone know the part number for this metal piece?[quoted image]
Ask someone like Cliffy to make u one
Hello, i need again your help. I bought this: Jackpot Board for Indiana Jones . I have to put the
connectors in J134 and J138. But i allready have connectors in it. Where else can i put the 2 connectors
please?
Thanks
Quoted from patje:Hello, i need again your help. I bought this: Jackpot Board for Indiana Jones . I have to put the
connectors in J134 and J138. But i allready have connectors in it. Where else can i put the 2 connectors
please?
Thanks
First connector to J133 or J134 or J135.
Second to J137 or J138.
Ok thank you. I just did and it worked, great.
But is it possible when doing that , that i get a problem at the path of adventure with the post ? When the ball comes up there
the first time it works ok, but second time the post doesnt go up anymore ( like playing for the jackpot ).
I played again without the jackpot board in, and the poa worked perfectly
or have i got a new problem
Quoted from patje:Ok thank you. I just did and it worked, great.
But is it possible when doing that , that i get a problem at the path of adventure with the post ? When the ball comes up there
the first time it works ok, but second time the post doesnt go up anymore ( like playing for the jackpot ).
I played again without the jackpot board in, and the poa worked perfectly
or have i got a new problem
Probably a flaky switch before the post.
I had the same issue, wouldn't register every time.
Test it with a ball to see if it registers.
Edit,
Never mind, post wouldn't go down for me.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Anyone install a Pinnovators Sub mod in their IJ? I tried the pinball pro sub in mine and I did not like the result.
I tried an internal sub upgrade only once. As soon as I heard an external, that was my only solution going forward. The sound wasn't even close to being comparable. Of course it helped that I bought a bunch of PSW10's for $79-$99 back in the olden days so it was actually the same price or cheaper to do an external anyway with what some of the options were out there.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I tried an internal sub upgrade only once. As soon as I heard an external, that was my only solution going forward. The sound wasn't even close to being comparable. Of course it helped that I bought a bunch of PSW10's for $79-$99 back in the olden days so it was actually the same price or cheaper to do an external anyway with what some of the options were out there.
Yeah I think I’m going to run the pinnovators mod and grab a psw10.
I did a psw10 tapping it into the cab sub and it sounds great. I’m sure pinsound and all those upgrades sound even better, but for $35 you can’t beat it.
Quoted from Norcalpin:I did a psw10 tapping it into the cab sub and it sounds great. I’m sure pinsound and all those upgrades sound even better, but for $35 you can’t beat it.
I purchased an IM with pinwoofer system installed. It is amazing but that system runs like $400 something. So I’m going to try getting a psw10 for $150 and a pinnovator board for $35. Half the cost but I guess I’ll see the results pan out.
Anyone successfully add star post leds under the slings? I can’t find a way to position them in such a way so that the board portion on the leds where the wires connect is not sticking out into the playfield waiting to be hit by a ball. I didn’t have this problem with my other bally/williams games. Doesn’t seems to be enough space under the slings because of where the GI is located in IJ.
Quoted from shepP:Anyone successfully add star post leds under the slings? I can’t find a way to position them in such a way so that the board portion on the leds where the wires connect is not sticking out into the playfield waiting to be hit by a ball. I didn’t have this problem with my other bally/williams games. Doesn’t seems to be enough space under the slings because of where the GI is located in IJ.
There is not enough space, the GI is too close.
Quoted from shepP:Anyone successfully add star post leds under the slings? I can’t find a way to position them in such a way so that the board portion on the leds where the wires connect is not sticking out into the playfield waiting to be hit by a ball. I didn’t have this problem with my other bally/williams games. Doesn’t seems to be enough space under the slings because of where the GI is located in IJ.
No issues on mine
0022CE95-AF0A-4870-9B12-4021D065A365 (resized).jpeg8CBCF2C5-5646-4D5B-8EBA-4998E1144D2E (resized).jpegCCCFC0E7-FE9D-432C-83FF-1E7D46BBE966 (resized).jpegCDB49413-C3DE-42EE-AF41-1F9DEBDCE3BD (resized).jpegHey All,
Probably a long shot, but I'm looking for an antidote. If anyone has a spare and would like to sell let me know!
Cheers
Yesterday i installed a pin2DMD led Evolution display. Very easy plug and play installation. Impressed to see the coloured graphics, really adds to the game experience to see Indy in natural colours. (And it really improved my minecart-tunnel-choosing-skills!)
Quoted from Norcalpin:Hey All,
Probably a long shot, but I'm looking for an antidote. If anyone has a spare and would like to sell let me know!
Cheers
There is a guy in town with one. I don’t care for it. Get the mod that drops the saucer down. Reshape (bend down because it’s has probably been bent up over all the years of the ball hitting it) the steel bracket the ball bounces off and I placed a thin adhesive pad to that bracket. Works way better than antidote imo.
Hi all. Just picked up my first IJPA yesterday. Appears to be an early production example. Gonna need some work, but it’s got good bones. Apparently it’s bees sitting in a warehouse for the past 25 years. One battery was just barely starting to leak, but the boards look clean. Happy to be part of the club! Merry Christmas.
340D3FB1-3239-4EF2-8606-D438C130945A (resized).jpegD296C9A4-B1A3-43F6-ABED-7C9513E0F39F (resized).jpegD9BCA03E-D778-4532-BBCE-4751550BDF0A (resized).jpegE8D2B9FA-6F1D-452F-B513-72E98F55F3DD (resized).jpegF80E7EE7-466D-4EFC-8F46-F4916A768858 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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