Damn. Just missed this. If anyone is doing the antidotes please PM me.. I need one. I tried the Cliffy, and its not working for me.

Cleanup in isle 3…

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Wow that's clean lol

Finally landed one of these. Any recommended mods for this game?

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ColorDMD, Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade, Davi's airball protector, Lao's Antidote (if your mode hole rejects alot of shots).

All of these fundamentally improve the game experience in some way.

Hi guys
what is the angle of your IJ please? Is 6.5 ° good for IJ ? And if it's more, does affect the mini playfield?

Also, Pinsound with the endprodukt mix and a subwoofer. This really turns the game into a theatrical experience.

I believe mine is about 6.5 last I measured. The game gets real floaty less than that and too fast if it's more. I adjusted the mini playfield separately by placing washers under the front bracket (and longer screws) to slow the ball down a little bit. Otherwise, the mini playfield is almost unplayable.

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In my mind there are three "necessary" mods, but it all comes down to personal preference. There are lots of options for IJ, and no shortage of opinions.

My can't-live-without mods:
- ColorDMD
- Cliffy plastic/hole protectors
- any preferred method of limiting mode hole bounce-outs (Lao's Antidote, deadening foam, deflector removal, hole depth adjust)

Other popular mods, in no particular order:
- Jackpot lights for speaker panel
- the Lost Plastic
- various side art blades
- brass plating/powder coating for rails/door/gun
- PinSound with endprodukt mix
- LED OCD/GI OCD with Comet LEDs
- upgraded target decals
- Rad Cals (or new decals) to replace faded cabinet art
- CPR's mirrored backglass
- Mirco's glitter playfield (feat. Vampire Willie)
- Davi's airball deflectors
- Korn's plane upgrades
- Jjlp's wooden gun grips
- Jazzbouche's pop bumper & Light Jackpot replacements
- Lior's ruins (if you can find them)

Other than that, make sure you have the L7 Game ROM and the L3 Sound ROM, get those alkaline batteries off the CPU board, and you're good to go.

I still got a problem with the general illumination. The lights goes off when playing for a few seconds and
then comes back on... Does somebody know wat to do ?

I’d suspect burnt/damaged connectors and/or headers on your power driver board

This exactly.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Greetings, I have just moved my pins to a new home and noticed the bottom IJ lights do not turn on. These are the lights under the sling shots & to the left & right of the flippers.
Not sure if others aren’t working that I haven’t noticed.
I’ve attached a pic of the lights which are off.
Could this be a blown fuse or connector issue?
Thanks so much for any advice!

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I think those Gi lights are daisy chained together. Look for a broken wire under the playfield around those dead lights.

Thanks, will check that out.

If I can’t locate a broken wire, do you know if there’s a fuse which controls those lights that might have blown?

Yes check your GI fuses (see below - believe the lower PF is F109) and the J121 connector (J121-2 & J121-8 light the lower PF) on your power driver board

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Hey Manny,
Thanks for your help.
On J121, the wires look black (burnt) at the top?
Is this normal?
I’m not great at some of this trouble shooting.
If that’s an issue, is it an easy repair?
Pic below with my finger holding the wire:

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A few things:
1. The connector in your hand is the GI for the backbox (not the PF). J120 and J121 headers are interlinked so sometimes the backbox and PF connectors are switched, which is the case for your machine. So best to swap them back unless there was a electrical issue as to why they were swapped in the first place.
2. The connectors for both J120 and J121 have been replaced (not original). WPC systems had an issue with the power being drawn through the GI causing the connectors to burn. Switching the GI lamps to LEDs reduces the power required, also replacing the headers and connectors ensures a solid connection across the pins (removing resistance from across the header/connector joint reduces the heat being produced and therefore stops the connector from becoming burnt). So the burnt wires are a sign that the connection has been previously burnt and why the connectors would have been replaced.
3. While the fuses look good, it's always best to pull the fuses and check them with a DMM
4. If reseating the connectors as part of swapping J120 & J121 fixes the issue then it highlights that the issue is associated with a poor connection at the power driver board. If so you then need to diagnose whether this is due to a cold solder joint on the header, a bad connection b/n the header pin and the connector, or where the wire joins the connector.
5. If you can't find the issue from the above, then you'll need to use a DMM to verify if and where you have power for that GI string

Thanks Manny, so I re-seated the J121 connector in the same spot; and at the same time noticed J604 was just hanging loose so re-seated that connector as well.

I turned on the pin and all the lights (including the sling shot & lower lights) were back on & functioning properly. Wondering now if the J604 connector falling out was the issue?
I’m going to keep an eye on this & see if the issue re-appears.
Thanks for all your suggestions above.

If you didn't swap J120 and J121, then J120 is actually your PF GI connector and I'm guessing it has a dodgy connection such that as you've reseated the backbox GI into J121 it's moved the wires and/or connector on J120. More than likely this issue will come back at some stage.

As for J604 not being connected, I assume that you have an after-market DMD display (eg ColorDMD). These replacement DMD's take their power from a different location as they do not require the high voltage that was needed for the original plasma DMD and what J604 was used for, and hence why the cable was left disconnected.

Manny, thanks again for your help with this.

I’m going to closely monitor & if the problem re-occurs with the lights going back off, I will have my tech guy over to repair the connector. (Beyond my novice abilities).

Regarding connector J604, I do have a color dmd installed and this must have been why that wasn’t plugged in. (Color dmd was installed many years ago).

Since I’ve re-seated the J604 connector last night again, it didn’t seem to impact anything.
Can I simply leave this connector plugged in or do I have to take out again in order to prevent any damage somehow?
Thanks once more!

The other end of the J604 wire loom will be disconnected, so there isn't an issue leaving J604 connected

Been makin' a few IJ assys for a future project. Haven't built any plastic models since grade school days. Brought back some good memories. Used polycarbonate for the plane standoff and went with orange LEDs for the guns. The polycarbonate is some really tough/strong stuff. Bends easily using a heat gun. Drills nice with the bits designed for plastic.
Wally

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A agréé, Please put me on the list for the mode hole fix

It is not the age, is the mileage.

Just a quick hello, 
I will be making more Pin2DMD if there is enough demand.
The list of colorized games (not all games are colorized is here)
https://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/5391-complete-pin2dmd-colour-file-list-for-virtual-real-pins/

If you game is not on the list, it is most likely not colorized. This means nobody has made colour files for Pin2DMD.

For pricing contact me by private message as I am not sure whether this is allowed on here.
I have made several dozens of these screens in the past, a lot of these go to myself, games I partially restored or to other collector who have bought off me.

Here are a couple of vids of my own games, I do have other games but I do not keep a lot of DMD games around often

Simpsons:

Indiana Jones:

And I just finished installing one in LW3 but since I am fixing other parts of the game I do not have a video of it yet, but I did test it and the screen works really well. Best part is that some colour files are free.

Anyway, enough infomercial now. Thanks

Just received a Comet Pinball Led kit, flashers included. Can't wait for some time to install it. Think it will increase the brightness, visability and fun for my good old Indy!

Ah, but will you play the age old game of installing those LED flashers, saying "Holy shit, that's way too bright," and putting the old flashers back in?

I certainly did.

A few years ago, Ricochet posted a very excellent and informative restoration thread. I myself had resisted LEDs in Indy for years, as I had tried it once and hated it.

But then I saw the Comet LEDs combined with the LED OCD board:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/12#post-5599593

That was enough to convince me to permanently make the switch. I also did the GI OCD board, and with those two boards you can totally dial in the LEDs to get the perfect balance with no harshness and proper dimming/fading. HIGHLY recommended.

This is the only way I’d consider installing LEDs into my IJ or SS. I’ve played them before without the LED OCD boards and I miss the dimming effect during the light shows!

Really like how the inserts fade in and out, too. Not just harsh fully on, fully off.

I agree, these older games need the OCD board to really take them to the next level. They do otherwise looks horribly choppy. Often times the GI will flicker when you flip as well.

As far as I remember, there is no GI dimming effect during gameplay in IJ.

I havent seen any dimming at all in my game other than fooling around with the GI dimming in the test menu.

If it exists, I have a spare GIOCD system to put in...

Id like to see it on a video before I put it in.

Some documentation regarding the usefullness of an OCD board in older '90s Williams ->

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards

Think you are right, therefore I didnt order the OCD board (yet)

GI OCD helps:
1. To provide proper dimming effect for GI strings
2. To dim backbox light once the game is started (in order to avoid glare off the glass)
3. To eliminate 50-60 Hz flickers

If there is no dimming effect in Indy, I would not pay $165 plus shipping + VAT for #2.
#3 is addressed with latest LED's.
For other titles with lot's of dimming like TZ, Addams it makes sense of course. On the other hand, Afterglow GI board is also able to provide dimming for LED's - with a much lower price.

Afterglow is an open source project (one board for GI and for controlled lamps). Usually In every year, there are "group buy" projects (at least in Europe).

In addition to #2, it's not just about dimming the backbox to avoid glare. It's about having fine-tuned control over all the GI levels on the playfield. Default GI brighness with LEDs is just too bright for me, especially in Indy which favours a dimmer, warmer lighting atmosphere.

Yes, granted, it's a luxury in Indy since there is no GI dimming as part of the lightshow. Not recommended for everybody. But if you are truly OCD about controlling your lights, GI OCD does make a welcome difference.

That said, the LED OCD board is an absolute must if you're swapping out those incandescents.

I solved the harsh brightness of the GI lighting by using sunlight 2smd lamps throughout.

I have a spare GIOCD board but havent needed to install it. It looks great.

A lot of people use the warm white LEDs but I thought they were too yellow for me.

That's why I kept GI incandescents in Indy.
The 360 even light spread of standard bulb cannot be copied by chip based LED bulbs.
And I am not worried at all about serious issues like playfield damage or burnt GI connectors in home environment

Have you tried the new LEDs that look like incandescents yet?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/104#post-7178071

They look very nice and not too harsh to look at.

Some people are putting them in the TAF electric chair with very good results.

I havent bought any yet, but I can think of tons of uses.

This looks interesting, thanks for the hint!

Comet 2 SMD Sunlight White look amazing in Indiana Jones. They were recommended to me for IJ and I absolutely wouldn't go back to incandescent bulb in the GI after using the Comet Sunlight LED's

I’m using them in the TAF I’m working on now. Using them in all the condom lights to see how they do.