Pleasant Plains, IL
Wires connected? Opto’s checked?
(Topic ID: 68869)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Woolgoolga
Quoted from punkin:No i haven't, as i said i thought it may be common issue. If there are many issues i'll just wait till my tech comes next. Sounds like it's above my skill level.
See if it works in test.
Might just be a wire fell off the motor.
I had to remove my Path of Adventure this weekend. It has been about 12 years since I had it removed! I documented the steps with pictures and some text. Perhaps this will be useful to someone.
https://aaarpinball.com/IndianaJones/ij.htm
I started this Indiana Jones page all the way back in 2005 so please forgive some of the small pictures in the original text.
Quoted from pinballinreno:See if it works in test.
Might just be a wire fell off the motor.
Yes would do test and if works there it may be optos by flipper button (need quick clean very easy). This would be best case scenario for you
For me, it's never clear whether to post a tech question in a separate thread or in the owner thread. Last night I made the (perhaps incorrect) decision to create a new thread. Since no one has replied, I thought I'd highlight it here.
Specifically, I'm wondering what type of flipper opto board others have on the right side of their IJ?
Mine is clearly the Type 1 board yet the manual says it should be type 2. The screw holes also verify it has always been a type 1. If I put a type 2 in there, the slight size difference makes it not work because it hits the auto-plunger solenoid.
So wondering what other people have on the right...
Quoted from altan:For me, it's never clear whether to post a tech question in a separate thread or in the owner thread. Last night I made the (perhaps incorrect) decision to create a new thread. Since no one has replied, I thought I'd highlight it here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-with-fliptronics-1-opto-board-on-right-side#post-6892477
Specifically, I'm wondering what type of flipper opto board others have on the right side of their IJ?
Mine is clearly the Type 1 board yet the manual says it should be type 2. The screw holes also verify it has always been a type 1. If I put a type 2 in there, the slight size difference makes it not work because it hits the auto-plunger solenoid.
So wondering what other people have on the right...
I had the same problem on my current IJ. A prior owner repaired it with whatever they had on hand.
The game came with the newer flip 2 opto board originally.
Its a close fit but you can move it lower a bit so that it looks like the cab button barely actuates it.
My cab button rests just level with the top edge of the opto board, it wont slip off.
Also you will find that the autolauncher bracket is most likely bent and sagging a little low.
Just physically bend it upwards until it clears the opto board and maybe loosen the mounting screws to get it further away.
When adjusted theres plenty of room, its just tight fit.
Other things to look at is the lockdown bar receiver and playfield hangers. If they are bent or sagged low the playfield will be a bit lower and hit the opto board.
The hangers can be bent straight again to raise the playfield a little.
Lastly, you want the metal spring keepers on the flip 2 opto interrupters. A LOT of games have them missing or were never installed from the factory, being an afterthought.
They keep the plastic interrupter from warping and make a positive connection.
pinballinreno thanks for the excellent insight! I'll look closer tonight.
I do wonder, however, if my IJ came originally with type 1. I say this because the screw holes are optimized for type 1. If I look at my RS, the screw holes are at the top of the flipper button whereas on my IJ, the screw holes are more in the middle... But will investigate.
Quoted from altan:pinballinreno thanks for the excellent insight! I'll look closer tonight.
I do wonder, however, if my IJ came originally with type 1. I say this because the screw holes are optimized for type 1. If I look at my RS, the screw holes are at the top of the flipper button whereas on my IJ, the screw holes are more in the middle... But will investigate.
My game had a few screw holes from repairs and general wear.
None of them were quite perfect.
I wouldnt trust them as a guide unless it was a recent ground up restoration with a new cab.
If Williams installed type 1 opto boards, you would see it as a reference in the manual or on a service bulletin.
They were pretty good about documentation (in spite of numerous errors.... lol).
If you are buying new boards, I try to get the Anarchy boards from pinball life.
The Gulf pinball boards work, and have a good fit, but they are lower quality and the header pins keepers are wrong.
The connectors tend to fall off and get loose.
So, Im avoiding most Gulf pinball products now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My game had a few screw holes from repairs and general wear.
None of them were quite perfect.
I wouldnt trust them as a guide unless it was a recent ground up restoration with a new cab.
If Williams installed type 1 opto boards, you would see it as a reference in the manual or on a service bulletin.
They were pretty good about documentation (in spite of numerous errors.... lol).
Makes sense.
Although to be a bit contrary, I suspect my IJ is somewhere between a pre-production and production ramp up. It says it was build on 8/1/93 yet Clay's old guide says IJ didn't come out until 10/93. Also, I'm pretty sure I have an original "lost plastic" (only because I got it in 2004 and the guy I got it from re-imported it from Germany and he certainly didn't shop it). So I'm a bit suspicious it might have had the type 1 put on there. But who knows!
EDIT: I see other sources say it came out in August, 1993... so that would at least mean closer to the beginning of manufacturing.
Quoted from altan:Makes sense.
Although to be a bit contrary, I suspect my IJ is somewhere between a pre-production and production ramp up. It says it was build on 8/1/93 yet Clay's old guide says IJ didn't come out until 10/93. Also, I'm pretty sure I have an original "lost plastic" (only because I got it in 2004 and the guy I got it from re-imported it from Germany and he certainly didn't shop it). So I'm a bit suspicious it might have had the type 1 put on there. But who knows!
Type 1 boards were widely used and operators certainly had them in stock.
I imagine it was put in as a repair that worked just fine.
Some games had the opto boards removed and plain old flipper switches installed as an effort to keep games earning on location.
It all works!
I just installed opto boards on my TAF in place of the regular switches.
This was to increase reliability and get a better more consistent feel.
Filing and cleaning old flipper switches to make them work right is unnecessary on TAF if you just upgrade to the opto boards.
Quoted from punkin:My top playfield has stopped working. It wasn't going all the way to one side for a little while and now it doesn't move at all. Can anyone give some hints as to what to look at please?
I just went through this. It is only a couple of things... The motor for the path of adventure
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=14-7988
or the boards that control the travel of the playfield
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16657
Try cleaning the optos on this board first
and finally the motor driver board can also be the culprit. (mounted underneath playfield)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15946-1
Regrettably I don't know what caused my issue as I changed BOTH boards as they were original and after that everything worked perfectly.
Start looking at the connectors on the boards and clean them, clean the optos if that fails look at the solder joints see if its cold... before you buy boards.
And finally clean the opto boards by the flipper buttons... reseat the connectors, clean the pins...
Quoted from HarryReimer:I just went through this. It is only a couple of things... The motor for the path of adventure
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=14-7988
or the boards that control the travel of the playfield
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16657
Try cleaning the optos on this board first
and finally the motor driver board can also be the culprit. (mounted underneath playfield)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15946-1
Regrettably I don't know what caused my issue as I changed BOTH boards as they were original and after that everything worked perfectly.
Start looking at the connectors on the boards and clean them, clean the optos if that fails look at the solder joints see if its cold... before you buy boards.
And finally clean the opto boards by the flipper buttons... reseat the connectors, clean the pins...
There is no doubt that rebuilding the POA with all new components yields the best results.
These games are pushing 30 years of use!
Total restoration will buy another 30 years (or more) of enjoyment.
Anyone who has endlessly "patched up" their games, is doing ground up restorations.
Its pretty much all i do now.
Lelystad
Quoted from Ricochet:Tin (stainless steel) knocking some antidotes today! I have kept an updated list … lots of folks gave up on me (understandably so)… therefore the list is becoming smaller
[quoted image]
Can you please add my on the list?
Quoted from Ricochet:Tin (stainless steel) knocking some antidotes today! I have kept an updated list … lots of folks gave up on me (understandably so)… therefore the list is becoming smaller
[quoted image]
Can you please add me to the list?
Quoted from Manny65:Got my first ever Billion External Life!! I'm stoked
Got 2.3B with 3 balls (1st + 2 extra balls), ... of course I then couldn't keep it going but hey no complaints here. What an awesome machine and gameplay - it never gets old![quoted image]
I suck at pinball … I’ll never see this number on my machine. I think I lack patience 
Quoted from Ricochet:I suck at pinball … I’ll never see this number on my machine. I think I lack patience
You and me both. In my almost twenty years of owning IJ, I've never even cracked 2 billion. I could chalk it up to not playing very often, but maybe I'm just bad? No! It is the children who are wrong.
And I'm here to confess that I, a diehard incandescents guy, finally bit the bullet and ordered both the LED OCD and GI OCD boards with a full set of Comet LEDs for my Indy. Thanks Ricochet for the lighting guide! After seeing how well it worked on your machine, and also hoping to extend the longevity of the game by reducing the heat from lamps, I decided it was finally time. But I tinkered with the custom light levels on individual lamps for a good long while before I was happy with the result. I guess I really am OCD about LED.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:You and me both. In my almost twenty years of owning IJ, I've never even cracked 2 billion. I could chalk it up to not playing very often, but maybe I'm just bad? No! It is the children who are wrong.
And I'm here to confess that I, a diehard incandescents guy, finally bit the bullet and ordered both the LED OCD and GI OCD boards with a full set of Comet LEDs for my Indy. Thanks Ricochet for the lighting guide! After seeing how well it worked on your machine, and also hoping to extend the longevity of the game by reducing the heat from lamps, I decided it was finally time. But I tinkered with the custom light levels on individual lamps for a good long while before I was happy with the result. I guess I really am OCD about LED.
I think that the difference between "controlled" LEDs and "uncontrolled" LEDs is like night and day.
On a restored game the LEDs make all the difference. No more dingy, dark, backroom type of feel.
I only use colors to solve a lighting issue, like making a red insert actually red instead of yellow, amber or orange.
Or purple in the spot lights to bring out playfield contrast on some games (they dont put out purple light lol).
I might only put 2 colored LEDs in a game if any. Mostly I like the look of comet 2smd frosted sunlights pretty much everywhere.
Oddly, the color you are looking for is rarely the same color of the LED you put in. Its all about mixing wavelengths similar to mixing paint, to get the best result.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think that the difference between "controlled" LEDs and "uncontrolled" LEDs is like night and day.
On a restored game the LEDs make all the difference. No more dingy, dark, backroom type of feel.
I only use colors to solve a lighting issue, like making a red insert actually red instead of yellow, amber or orange.
Or purple in the spot lights to bring out playfield contrast on some games (they dont put out purple light lol).
I might only put 2 colored LEDs in a game if any. Mostly I like the look of comet 2smd frosted sunlights pretty much everywhere.
Oddly, the color you are looking for is rarely the same color of the LED you put in. Its all about mixing wavelengths similar to mixing paint, to get the best result.
Yeah, I used mostly warm white and sunlight as per the lighting guide, which gives a great result - even for the solid coloured inserts on the playfield. The guide does single out only two bulbs in the whole machine for the colour treatment - 2 green flashers for under the green domes at the top of the ramps. I may leave these as incandescent, I haven't decided yet. They're accessible enough that I don't have to worry about dismantling half the upper playfield to get to them, at least.
I have a custom Indiana Jones Biplane that I can have a trusted friend bring to Allentown. Ordered new from Marco and then given the KornFreak treatment with decals, paint and working spinning prop. $100.00. PM me if interested.
Added 23 months ago:*Biplane is sold*
Quoted from RobDutch:Finally added mirrors, very happy with the result
[quoted image]
Who did you buy them from?
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Yeah, I used mostly warm white and sunlight as per the lighting guide, which gives a great result - even for the solid coloured inserts on the playfield. The guide does single out only two bulbs in the whole machine for the colour treatment - 2 green flashers for under the green domes at the top of the ramps. I may leave these as incandescent, I haven't decided yet. They're accessible enough that I don't have to worry about dismantling half the upper playfield to get to them, at least.
The green under the domes is a great accent!
I tend to go 100% LED for durability, including the GI, displays and flashers.
I really like the cool white 5LED flasher towers from Comet for the #906 bulbs and they come in green!
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers
The LED OCD and GIOCD boards are a key to this being successful.
Without these boards, it would be a very different story.
Quoted from Ricochet:I suck at pinball … I’ll never see this number on my machine. I think I lack patience
I was so proud of myself when i put a new GC score on my machine at 500m last week.
Like a kick to the balls that is.
Quoted from punkin:I was so proud of myself when i put a new GC score on my machine at 500m last week.
Like a kick to the balls that is.
Better scores are achieved thru the correct balance of Beer and Whiskey.
Too much and the scores go down.
Too little and the scores go down.
Just right? you can do amazing things! (though you might not care or remember them...)
I ruled the universe for the first time on my AFMrLE after 3 pints of 805 and 3 shots of scotch.... (burp!)
Balance is the key...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Better scores are achieved thru the correct balance of Beer and Whiskey.
Too much and the scores go down.
Too little and the scores go down.
Just right? you can do amazing things! (though you might not care or remember them...)
There is truth here 
My best games are almost always with a hangover. The day i beat the GC on IJ that came with the machine i had got up that morning and my mate that was staying challenged me to a game of Tron over coffee, i beat the GC score on it that it came with and i had been chasing for weeks (just under 100m), so to get two gc scores in a day was a first for me.
Substitute whiskey for brownies and i'll agree though.
Quoted from Marathonman845:Who did you buy them from?
Bought them from Pinballshop in the Netherlands: https://www.pinballshop.nl/cabinet-parts/siderails-and-trims/mirror-blades-bally-williams-wpc-wpc95/ .
Quoted from Manny65:I put my high score success down to Lao’s Antidote.
Ironic, because without the Antidote, most shots to the mode start pocket just ricochet out.
Quoted from littlecammi:Ironic, because without the Antidote, most shots to the mode start pocket just ricochet out.
Quoted from HarryReimer:Yeah the antidote is a MUST HAVE. Richochet has outdone himself and he is a good egg..
Thank you for the compliments!
Quoted from altan:This is a reminder to replace your IJ pinballs...
Can you tell which one is older among the newer ones?
[quoted image]
Get the bulk high carbon 1 1/16" ball bearings off ebay or the web.
G100 are ok, plenty good for pinball, G500 are better but I can polish them up better and cheaper.
The lowest price recently was 69 cent each if you buy 25 or more.
Its best to buy them cheaply and in bulk so you dont have to worry about throwing them out every 400 plays like you should.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Better scores are achieved thru the correct amount of weed.
Too much and the scores go down.
Too little and the scores go down.
Just right? you can do amazing things! (though you might not care or remember them...)
I ruled the universe for the first time on my AFMrLE after 3 bong rips.... (yo!)
Balance is the key...
Fixed that for you so I can better relate.
Quoted from orlandu81:Fixed that for you so I can better relate.
careful, i got modded for altering quotes in a harmless way once.
Paris
Quoted from altan:I had to remove my Path of Adventure this weekend. It has been about 12 years since I had it removed! I documented the steps with pictures and some text. Perhaps this will be useful to someone.
https://aaarpinball.com/IndianaJones/ij.htm
I started this Indiana Jones page all the way back in 2005 so please forgive some of the small pictures in the original text.
thank you! very valuable !!! thanks a lot.
@ Senor Ricochet-
Please add me to your waiting list for your Mode Start Antidote (cure) if you would please.
Thank you!
Quoted from swanng:@ Senor Ricochet-
Please add me to your waiting list for your Mode Start Antidote (cure) if you would please.
Thank you!
Yes me to as well please.
Quoted from Ricochet:Tin (stainless steel) knocking some antidotes today! I have kept an updated list … lots of folks gave up on me (understandably so)… therefore the list is becoming smaller
[quoted image]
Please add me to your list
Quoted from radfordian3505:So proud to finally get to be apart of this amazing club.
[quoted image]
welcome aboard! 
Collingwood, ON
Quoted from radfordian3505:So proud to finally get to be apart of this amazing club.
[quoted image]
Welcome it's the game game of all time
Enjoy it
Quoted from Williampinball:Welcome it's the game game of all time
Enjoy it
Tron.
I just worked on new decals for my IJ
I had bad surprises under the apparent decals that were on the pinball when I got it. The old and probably original one were still there. It took me a while to get them off. I tried to do a neat job.
I found some nice decals in France for a reasonable price. I chose the mat finish as I don’t remember original decals being shiny. They look good but a question comes to my mind. They don’t have a same texture as the originals. The rendering is very smooth and does not have the
same grain. Have you noticed this too? Do you know where to find decals that would be more similar to the Williams originals of the time?
Anyway, here are some pictures of the result. (With some steps of the work.)1965A246-D6C6-45D9-BE2D-C570F5AD59B7 (resized).jpeg1BCADE8C-5E9E-431A-A588-323335E3ABA5 (resized).jpeg90912A5D-239A-46DC-8660-D95CD540CFE2 (resized).jpeg6FF3955A-6774-4008-A011-4920BB6758FF (resized).jpeg7A76B7B5-1051-45DB-AB15-FB17AD4BEF97 (resized).jpeg76722138-98F5-4409-8582-241DE76E5616 (resized).jpegDEECA347-A56D-44FC-A054-3EF8EE0E1013 (resized).jpeg3A122F07-5FB3-4C9B-BB6A-0AE8F6A72199 (resized).jpeg9F376A86-4C9B-413A-B02F-C5AF15250147 (resized).jpeg9C290C8A-8CF7-4D06-A464-6DBDCF8C85D3 (resized).jpeg85ABDD19-FC7F-4DA6-8E41-44D1EF201337 (resized).jpeg43901CFD-6292-4221-B181-DE71DE9FF041 (resized).jpeg77BE9834-07B3-4359-B9E6-579C6B0D6971 (resized).jpegB6D05FB8-A727-43A7-91F1-CE72E2B40B6F (resized).jpegABDA1E09-C51E-4E9A-B65D-D4FEFFBEFB9D (resized).jpegDB5D67BB-A74F-4885-84C5-923C64A409E6 (resized).jpegB7A50224-FD7C-49B5-82D2-44E7E3F7E5A5 (resized).jpeg
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