(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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  • 9,204 posts
  • 551 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Williampinball
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There are 9,204 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 185.
#901 5 years ago

For more tilt, you can also file down the width of the opto interrupter.

2 weeks later
#902 5 years ago

Working on a friends IJ with none of the optos working that are controlled by the 10 opto switch board....LED is on and I get lots of optos to register when I wiggle the main connector on left. Did not have time to go into any more testing. Thinking cold solder joints so I will try that first. But I noticed no one has this board in stock. Is it avail anywhere if needed?

1 week later
#903 5 years ago

Thanks to the folks in this thread. The info found in this and other threads helped me finally adjust my mode start saucer enough to reduce brick outs significantly. Maybe from 80% to 20%. That was enough to get me to eternal life mb for only my second time!

Thanks again.

#904 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Thanks to the folks in this thread. The info found in this and other threads helped me finally adjust my mode start saucer enough to reduce brick outs significantly. Maybe from 80% to 20%. That was enough to get me to eternal life mb for only my second time!
Thanks again.

And what is the ultimate solution?

#905 5 years ago

Well, it's funny you should ask, cause I just went down and played the first game in a week, (I was out of town) and my first three shots to the mode hole were brickouts! It got better after that, but I might need some more tweaking. I filed out the holes on the backstop sheet metal and moved it back as far as I could. I also put Velcro on it (loop side) to deaden it. I had bought "drop dead" foam for mmr but found it to be nearly useless. Moving the stop and the Velcro was definitely an improvement. I think I would like to try something more. I read about lowering the saucer with washers. It seems to me like the little metal kicker that ejects it out of the saucer is very firm in the resting position and would reduce any effectiveness in lowing that saucer. Any other ideas?

#906 5 years ago

Want one!!

#907 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Well, it's funny you should ask, cause I just went down and played the first game in a week, (I was out of town) and my first three shots to the mode hole were brickouts! It got better after that, but I might need some more tweaking. I filed out the holes on the backstop sheet metal and moved it back as far as I could. I also put Velcro on it (loop side) to deaden it. I had bought "drop dead" foam for mmr but found it to be nearly useless. Moving the stop and the Velcro was definitely an improvement. I think I would like to try something more. I read about lowering the saucer with washers. It seems to me like the little metal kicker that ejects it out of the saucer is very firm in the resting position and would reduce any effectiveness in lowing that saucer. Any other ideas?

I've lost count of how many times I've said this: Take. It. Out. Line the back of that area with dead drop foam and throw the scoop in your coin box. Thank me later.

#908 5 years ago

What is drop dead foam? The stuff behind stand-up targets?

#909 5 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

What is drop dead foam? The stuff behind stand-up targets?

Nope...

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131

An essential thing to have in your repair kit. I can assure you, you'll eventually need some somewhere. I'm working through my second supply order of the stuff.

#910 5 years ago

Dude, I think I only just now understood what you said. Literally permanently remove the backstop part? Doesn't that just let the ball smash into plastics in that area? Honestly I can't remember what's behind there. Is that what you mean?

#911 5 years ago

Beelzeboob's right. Removing the ball stop scoop works best. It's all metal behind the scoop, so take it out, line the interior with foam = drastically better. The only thing you lose is that nice metal thack. Removing the ball stop makes it kind of mushy, but hey, much fewer rejections.

#912 5 years ago

It's all metal back there. You're lining the backsides of some ball guides that forms a V back there, as I recall. So the ball smashes into the foam-lined V (smashes is WAY too strong of a word), and rebounds nicely...right into the hole. The mode hole scoop was a major design flaw; best to just take it out altogether.

#913 5 years ago

Anybody want out of the club in MD/VA/PA area...looking to join.

1 week later
#914 5 years ago

Finally got her put back together!! (new decals, trim, legs & door powder coated in bronze metallic....looks better in person):

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#915 5 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

Finally got her put back together!! (new decals, trim, legs & door powder coated in bronze metallic....looks better in person):

LOVE it. Black looks awesome!

#916 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

LOVE it. Black looks awesome!

Looks great!

#917 5 years ago

Great looking machine. Should I get the color DMD?

#918 5 years ago

Looks great Astro. Is that a brown?

#919 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Great looking machine. Should I get the color DMD?

color dmd is a must for this game. I think IJ has the best dmd animations from 90's era games.

#920 5 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I've lost count of how many times I've said this: Take. It. Out. Line the back of that area with dead drop foam and throw the scoop in your coin box. Thank me later.

Beelzeboob is hereby nominated to my list of "Top Men" for his help in my quest to fix the mode start reject problem. Scoop removed and I'm 100% stick now! Thanks a lot man. So much more fun to play now!

#921 5 years ago
Quoted from V4Vendetta:

color dmd is a must for this game. I think IJ has the best dmd animations from 90's era games.

I've always felt ij has such an amber tone to the whole game (and I put brass armor on to enhance it), that color in the DMD will mess it up. I need to see a colordmd on it in person. I have one in sstng and love it.

image_(resized).jpg

#922 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I've always felt ij has such an amber tone to the whole game (and I put brass armor on to enhance it), that color in the DMD will mess it up. I need to see a colordmd on it in person. I have one in sstng and love it.

I have one on mine and it looks awesome. One of the better ColorDMD add ons. You're always welcome to swing by and check it out.

#923 5 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Looks great Astro. Is that a brown?

It's actually a metallic bronze (deep brown with flecks of reddish gold in it), which is why I said it looks better in person. It is pretty subtle though.

#924 5 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I have one on mine and it looks awesome. One of the better ColorDMD add ons. You're always welcome to swing by and check it out.

Didn't realize you had one. I might just need to do that. Your IJ is still my vision of perfection for this pin. Mines getting close...

So what does everyone think about led in this pin? I like it in others, but for the same reason (the orange/amber tone in everything) I can't see myself doing it.

#925 5 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

Finally got her put back together!! (new decals, trim, legs & door powder coated in bronze metallic....looks better in person):

Sweet. I need to decal the right head.
My STTNG is also a reimport with a French coin door.

#926 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I've always felt ij has such an amber tone to the whole game (and I put brass armor on to enhance it), that color in the DMD will mess it up. I need to see a colordmd on it in person. I have one in sstng and love it.

The ColorDMD is color matched to the playfield so I don't think you should be concerned about it not fitting in. You can shift the display in STTNG over to IJ to see how it looks. Just need to install the color ROM for IJ from the SUPPORT page.

#927 5 years ago

I am having a hell of a time getting into this club. Been waiting patiently but so far no luck.

If anyone has a lead an IJ please PM me. I don't care if the cabinet is faded or if it has bullet holes in it. I just want one that plays decent and I am fine doing a little work if the price is right. I am on the west coast and don't mind doing some long distance driving either.

Hopefully I can join you all someday soon. Cheers and I'll go back to lurking in the shadows now.

#928 5 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

I am having a hell of a time getting into this club. Been waiting patiently but so far no luck.
If anyone has a lead an IJ please PM me. I don't care if the cabinet is faded or if it has bullet holes in it. I just want one that plays decent and I am fine doing a little work if the price is right. I am on the west coast and don't mind doing some long distance driving either.
Hopefully I can join you all someday soon. Cheers and I'll go back to lurking in the shadows now.

Good luck with your search.....one will pop up. Took me a little while to track one down (and 14hrs of driving). I have to say that IJ is one of the rare games that I like MORE now that I own it.

#929 5 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

The ColorDMD is color matched to the playfield so I don't think you should be concerned about it not fitting in. You can shift the display in STTNG over to IJ to see how it looks. Just need to install the color ROM for IJ from the SUPPORT page.

This is a good point. Would be an easy way to see how it would look. You're still welcome to swing by anyway.

#930 5 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Finally got around to fixing my POA. It would tilt to the left well but only in stutter steps to the right. After trying lots of other things (and consulting with Lloyd/LTG), I swapped out the driver board. That fixed it. It didn't occur to me to start there since I replaced that board two or three years ago and assumed that it must be good. Nope. Lesson learned.

I'm getting the same stutter in my POA. It seems to work normally soon after start up, and I can usually get through the POA test but then later during gameplay it will start to stutter. I reflowed the connectors and the large copper coils on the bridge driver board A-15946-1 . It seemed to help for a while but now it's stuttering again. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement. Marco, PPS, Ministry of Pinball are out of stock. Has anyone had luck repairing this board or has a spare they are willing to sell? Am I looking in the wrong place? I don't believe the set screw under the POA is loose because it works normally sometimes too.

#931 5 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

I'm getting the same stutter in my POA. It seems to work normally soon after start up, and I can usually get through the POA test but then later during gameplay it will start to stutter. I reflowed the connectors and the large copper coils on the bridge driver board A-15946-1 . It seemed to help for a while but now it's stuttering again. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement. Marco, PPS, Ministry of Pinball are out of stock. Has anyone had luck repairing this board or has a spare they are willing to sell? Am I looking in the wrong place? I don't believe the set screw under the POA is loose because it works normally sometimes too.

Send it to Pinsider johnwartjr he'll fix it up for you.

#932 5 years ago

John Wart's work is top notch.

#933 5 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

I'm getting the same stutter in my POA. It seems to work normally soon after start up, and I can usually get through the POA test but then later during gameplay it will start to stutter. I reflowed the connectors and the large copper coils on the bridge driver board A-15946-1 . It seemed to help for a while but now it's stuttering again. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement. Marco, PPS, Ministry of Pinball are out of stock. Has anyone had luck repairing this board or has a spare they are willing to sell? Am I looking in the wrong place? I don't believe the set screw under the POA is loose because it works normally sometimes too.

Make sure your flipper opto's are good and clean. They control the playfield during gameplay.

#934 5 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

John Wart's work is top notch.

Fact!

#935 5 years ago

does anyone know when I can get a POA ramp as I'm having trouble sourcing one? A few have them listed but are out of stock, cheers in advance.

#936 5 years ago

Man a dirty, totally faded cab, and rusty ramps IJ sold for $3,300 yesterday at the Winston Salem NC auction. Someone got a deal because the playfield although dirty and slightly faded would clean up . I have had a great IJ already for 5 years or i would have bought it in a second. I have had 60 games in 8 years and IJ is second to none.

#937 5 years ago

Just joined the club yesterday! Picked it up from a non-collector so I'm sure everything is not working 100%. I only had about 10 min on her yesterday before bed and have one question. With the path of adventure - what type of movement is normal when engaging the flipper button? Does it move fluidly one full crank each way, or should it move two cranks each way with two flipper button pressed. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but basically mine moves about halfway to one side with one button hit, then a full tilt to the side with the second button pressed in the same direction.

#938 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Just joined the club yesterday! Picked it up from a non-collector so I'm sure everything is not working 100%. I only had about 10 min on her yesterday before bed and have one question. With the path of adventure - what type of movement is normal when engaging the flipper button? Does it move fluidly one full crank each way, or should it move two cranks each way with two flipper button pressed. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but basically mine moves about halfway to one side with one button hit, then a full tilt to the side with the second button pressed in the same direction.

Hmm....mine moves all the way but I tend to hold the button in.

#939 5 years ago

I have brass armor and gun and the Color DMD looks incredible. This is a great title for the Color DMD because you have 3 video modes and there are great animations. You can see videos on youtube.

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#940 5 years ago

Shes a beaut Clark!!!

#941 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Just joined the club yesterday! Picked it up from a non-collector so I'm sure everything is not working 100%. I only had about 10 min on her yesterday before bed and have one question. With the path of adventure - what type of movement is normal when engaging the flipper button? Does it move fluidly one full crank each way, or should it move two cranks each way with two flipper button pressed. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but basically mine moves about halfway to one side with one button hit, then a full tilt to the side with the second button pressed in the same direction.

It should move fluidly until it hits a limit switch both ways. Mine "stutters" because I need a new motor driver board I think. Not 100% sure that is the solution but seems to be based on Pinside searches I've done.

#942 5 years ago

Does any of you installed a shaker in this game? Is it worth it? An other treath says it just works on ark multiball?
Any reviews are welcome.

#943 5 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Does any of you installed a shaker in this game? Is it worth it? An other treath says it just works on ark multiball?
Any reviews are welcome.

I don't yet- but I'm considering one with a twist- I have a PinSound card in my IJ. (Which is awesome!) PinSound has relay out connectors on its board for a shaker and allows you to assign shaker activity to any sound trigger. This opens up huge opportunities for better shaker integration than just Ark multiball. The holdup is it's not yet active in the current PinSound firmware. Last time I inquired I was told "soon" but it's been a couple of months now.

#944 5 years ago

I have a pinsound too in my Indy. Any shaker will then do the trick? In my older stern I have one with a separate board connected to a flasher. Also who is going to rewrite the pinsound file for shaker usage? I do not see anything in pinball browser or am I missing something?

#945 5 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I have a pinsound too in my Indy. Any shaker will then do the trick? In my older stern I have one with a separate board connected to a flasher. Also who is going to rewrite the pinsound file for shaker usage? I do not see anything in pinball browser or am I missing something?

There was a firmware that had simple on off shaker support. It works great but the guys want to take it to the next level.

You will be able to integrate shaker function as you like. I can't say anything about when they're done. I have no idea and I'm waiting on it myself.

1 week later
#946 5 years ago

Can someone do me a favor and post a picture of the wiring to the drop target bank coil? I removed the mechanism to clean and have some confusion on if my wiring is correct. I appreciate it!

#947 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Can someone do me a favor and post a picture of the wiring to the drop target bank coil? I removed the mechanism to clean and have some confusion on if my wiring is correct. I appreciate it!

Does this work?

013indy16s.jpg

#948 5 years ago

Is that of the single drop target? If you have a picture of the 3 bank, that would be fantastic. I think there were two wires going to the left side of the coil and one going to the right?

#949 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Is that of the single drop target? If you have a picture of the 3 bank, that would be fantastic. I think there were two wires going to the left side of the coil and one going to the right?

I have this pic hoping it helps.

20960320049_8d9e71274c_o_(resized).jpg

#950 5 years ago

Here's a better shot of three bank target coil wires.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

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