Looks great bud

Ok all, I’m a little frustrated. I had two problems with my indy. One was that it kept blowing fuses on the fliptronics board. I swapped that out and haven’t had a problem yet.

The other is much harder. The poa moves perfectly when in test mode. But in game it moves very slowly and maybe stutters slightly. I did a lot of homework and the consensus was definitely on the poa opto board. I replaced it with brand new and no luck! Exactly the same symptoms. I’m in desperate need of ideas. Someone mentioned the flipper opto boards and I’ll try that tomorrow (I cleaned the optos and that didn’t help). Anybody feeling brilliant?

Test mode uses the diag switches to instruct the POA left/right movement, whereas in game mode this is done by the flipper buttons - so I'd think you're on the right path. Swapping out the flipper opto boards (or using normal leaf switches or jumpering the header pins at the fliptronics board) would be a way of verifying if the flipper boards are causing the issue.

I'd certainly try this before looking elsewhere - keep us informed as to how you get on

Honestly, I think sometimes everyone over thinks things and I don't mean it as an insult.

Sounds all to familiar....
At the end of the poa closest to player is the hinge that holds the poa on a angle.
This catch can bind up over time the more the poa has gone back and forth.
Make sure there is an air gap and use a little lube on that end to loosen it up. There is a set screw that can get loose and the poa slides downhill a little.
Take a look there.

Yet that doesn't explain why it works perfectly in test mode, or am I missing something?

Replace the motor and gearbox.

Thanks for the advice guys. I’ll check it all. Fortunately I have a working Indy to test parts. Any thoughts on why the flippers would work fine if the flipper optos are the problem for the poa?

That again makes me wonder why it works in test mode?

I was also getting the classic reset problem (I ordered a kahr board for it). Does a flaky 5v mess with the optos?

Repair the driver board to fix bad voltages, its a better way to go.

You can send it to Chris Hibler for bulletproofing. Send the CPU board while you are at it.

The opto boards use 12V power however the Fliptronics board does use the 5V power, but as to whether this is contributing to your issue I'm not sure. The Kahr board removes the MPU board from the 5V power rail, so this doesn't directly address the 5V power to the Fliptronics board although there now maybe enough power as the MPU draw has been removed.

And the winner is….

Flipper opto boards! Thanks for your help. Of course it was the easiest and last thing it tried because I’m dumb. But at least it’s working!!

Thanks again to all that helped.

Didn’t want to jinx it but I got in the club as of 3 hrs ago

Wow time flys when you play this game

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Good job! ... as to why your flippers work yet the POA stutters is still a bit of mystery to me, but glad to hear you got it working.

Agreed. Confusing. Still not 100% sure about whether the board was bad or the plastic part that blocks the opto was not fully clearing out. I’m waiting until my flipper board and new fliptronics boards show up before I change anything else.

Welcome too the club love the game one of the best out there enjoy

Don't know if too many here have forked out on the Art of Pinball stuff. I told myself for ages I wouldn't ever worry about it at what it all costs. But I got sucked in by a LSOG email newsletter a few weeks ago. I must have been in a spendthrift mood or something so I ended up ordering the whole set . Received it this week and today I had so time so I thought I'd install, plus good way to sort out adjusting my POA alignment while I was at it. Everything seeming good till I discovered the right wall's pre-drilled holes definitely weren't well fully aligned. With a bit of fiddling I managed to get it on though. I was hoping there would be no issue on the left side I was starting to get a bit annoyed. Sure enough the left was a bit worse and wasn't complying at all. My frustration unfortunately peaked, guess I hadn't eaten much today. End result left side now worse for wear. I seriously hope the rest of the kit doesn't have these sorts of hand made errors for this absurd cost.
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Thank you
Total grail pin for me new or old doesnt matter stoked to have it

Contact Lior. Super nice guy. I’m sure he will help

So in follow up to my drama, I put in the Kahr anti reset board thinking it would at least band-aid my last problem, resets. Unfortunately, I got a reset on the very first game. Took like 30 seconds to reboot too. I’ll be working on the next steps…

Using a DMM, what are your voltages on TP1, 2 & 3?

WPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpg

I’ve never owned this game
I have played it in arcades a couple times,seeing how I’m of vintage age
I’ve seen them at buddies houses
Never owned one

This actually is a very very good game when dialed in

Yes I have owned two IJ and will never sell this one ever again ,I restored both and too get it back again she's a keeper great playing ,flow ,artwork,sounds and much more very deep game also

I’ll test that tomorrow. Thanks!

Tp1: 13.47
TP2: 4.96
Tp3: 11.92

TP2 is the 5v regulated - typically you'd see this slightly above 5v at TP2. Poor connections from the power board to the MPU board can contribute to voltage drops and you'll get resets if the 5v rail on the MPU board drops below 4.85v. So based on your reading I'm not surprised that you've experienced resets.

Can you measure the voltage at TP8?
Then power off and reseat J101 on the power board, after powering back on take another set of readings on TP2, TP3 and TP8

Thanks he ended writing a bit of offhand PM to me overnight which I was a bit taken a back by, having a bit of dig about my original post. I don't know how he expects pinsiders paying big money on his resin molded artworks not to share issues here. Same goes for any other mod in pinball and most other categories.

I shared this pic with him that demonstrates the issue at hand. It's like the final product shrunk down slightly given there's a gap when both pieces are separately screwed back on to the POA. Ironically from the front it side it's kind of disguised when you look it, so I may evaluate leaving it given it's a whole exercise for me to ship it back to LSOG etc from here. I've put a piece of 3M double sided tape (with only the one side attached) on it and will see how it looks when I've done the rest of the kit, which I probably won't get on to now for a few more days.
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That’s disappointing. For what you pay, I would think he would just send you a whole new one. Maybe at least some touch up paint and you could fill the gap with something? Just brainstorming.

Is the guy really asking you to ship back after that pic?

Pinball businesses have gone mad.

There are decent people out there though and that keeps me hopeful, but that is pathetic. Like what's he going to do with the piece of $5 plastic? melt it and put it back in the next (hopefully correct one)?

Someone lives on their reputation for quality they die by it too.

i offer him free replacement without asking the old one back! or any charge! we stand behind our products!
thats what we do with all of our products!

i also offer him full refund for the all set without asking to send it back!

NO!

all of our products have warranty. also if something broke after time we always sending replacement for free without asking the old one back and you can ask all of our customers.

i have sent pm to this guy when i saw his post to offer him refund or new one for free. he decide to give you wrong info and thats up to him.

so before you give wrong info to people or writing bad feedback first try to reach us and you will never be disappointed! We stand behind our products!

WE NEVER ask to ship item back! you can ask all of our customers and i never ask you to ship it back, check your messages. we offer you a replacement in 24 hours!

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He now claims he never asked for it to be shipped back but it that's what I'd certainly interpret if someone said contact the retailer for a replacement or refund. I mean what are they going to something sight unseen, especially given I had to use third party shipping(due to no shipping here by LSOG at the moment) so it's hard to match up the purchase details.

Lior after the PM you just sent me, I'm pretty taken aback that manufacturer would have a back and forth with an end customer this way. Now your saying some of it here. I posted what happened to the product and what I interpreted your PM to say .ie. how would I expect LSOG to just send a replacement without getting back the damaged item first that's commonsense.

I've told you my thoughts in a PM, I'll leave it at that.

Seems like you jumped the gun here a bit. Give them time to make it right and don't assume anything, it'll save everyone some drama. Give the seller a chance to make you whole.

Hello everyone! I jumped the gun (pun intended) on buying one of these complete gun assemblies for my IJ just before formally deciding to have Robert Stone powdercoat my original. I still have this one brand new replacement if anyone is interested to get one with a discount, send me a PM

https://www.pinballlife.com/indiana-jonesdirty-harry-gun-handle-assembly.html

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Sound right to me. Regardless of the tone of the original pm, it looks like everything will be worked out.

Regardless his PM's to me crossed a line that I wouldn't expect most businesses to do in speaking to their customers. He knows my thoughts now with it all.

Ok I understand your frustration with the product but a little patience and you would have the same result without the public shaming. Sounds like you will be receiving a new part to replace the faulty one. Try drilling out the hole next time instead of forcing it, looks like they're made from resin so should drill easy enough.

I think where you went wrong here is posting problems with the product before actually trying to get the problem resolved with the particular business or retailer. I am speaking first hand with my experiences with The Art of Pinball. Lior is a great guy and has great products. Do mistakes happen from time to time with any business? Yes! But my experience in how you handle yourself in the beginning really sets the tone.

The guy is a total drama queen.....yes he makes creative stuff, but when u have issues, and u post to a public forum he gets all bent out of shape...I've just stopped buying anything from the guy as its over priced anyways

Ahh yeah probably easier said than done at the cost of the product. I don't know any other enthusiast forum where people would express such views. You should see the posts on avsforum as an example. Why should I have to modify a product of this calibre to start with?

This is now sold, thank you for all the interest!

Your pinball machine is almost 30 years past introduction date... Sometimes things move around. It's par for the course.

My machine keeps factory resetting every time i turn it on
I took out the battery and checked it with a multimeter and it measures just over 3v.
Anything else i need to look at ?

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you 5v circuit will most likely be the issue.
Refer to the manual and check the correct Test Point (TP) and report the voltage you are getting. You might need a new regulator, bridge, caps, etc.

Rocket wpc89 solves all reset issues and fixes the clock finally:

https://www.pinsound.org/rocket-cpu-wpc/

Its a very good price right now.

What clock is this in Indy?

The battery is only used to hold the settings and high score information in RAM while the game is power off, and is not related to game resets.

WPC resets are covered in detail at https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

However as a starting point if you have a DMM check the voltages at TP1, 2 & 3 on your Power Driver board (as per below)

WPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpg

He's referring to the clock crystal/circuit on the CPU board

Just making sure it wasn’t the TZ clock

This is the nature of enthusiast forums. You tell me where this doesn't commonly happen, especially when the product is of this kind of value. I shared legit manufacturing defect with a product...I only shared that I was less than impressed with the manufacturers feedback after it occurred via PM. No drama needed, but it was drama I got in response.
The matter is now closed for better or for worse.

I understand at least mate. There's some retailers in here who have a loyal (read rabid) following, and preach the immaculate service that people like Dan form Pinwoofer actually provide.

Some of them are the worst people i've ever dealt with (never dealt with lior, so not aimed at him) but the consensus is always it's your fault here.

Williams clock/crystal circuit is well know for not even being close to keeping the correct time and date.

The time/date displays are off by hours and even days after a very short time of a couple weeks.

It always cracked me up when I would get a midnight madness mode out of nowhere in the morning or afternoon.

TZ uses the real time clock on the CPU board to set the time if its enabled in the service menu.

Since the CPU time is always off, the TZ playfield clock is always off too.