I love the mountain parts around the POA and the Idol but the rest is too much as it does indeed clash a little with the playfield art style. It is a pricey mod and the value added wouldn’t be worth it for me but it is beautiful workmanship. He makes some very nice stuff.

I think the small idol head looks weird.

Ya that's what I thought way way too small and it over powers the game it self ,but great work too them just too many of them for that game ,less is always better

I thought that at first, but it actually looks pretty good in the game if u have the ruins (they match up well). If u didn't have the ruins it would look way too small.

Yes - just finalising the batch that I had hoped to ship this week. Hopefully I can justify the slight delay to everyone as I increased the medallion resolution by using a resin print (really pleased with it) and added the crystal eye. Very happy with the results - had to print a few extra for some last minute orders. Will post some pics either later today or tomorrow.

I would highly suggest Comet sunlight for all your GI

IT would have been a lot cheaper maybe to just swap the PF. The perfect original PF does not exist unless it is a NOS 1993 never used, like the one I have in a box right behind as a type this and I am saving for a scratch build.

Does anybody know where to get the plane propeller mod or at least a DIY kit?

Yeah I feel the same way too. It's why I didn't add a realistic Bf 109 model to my game. I'm usually not a keep it original kind of guy but for this game it's different.

I added these idols to my ruins which I think fit perfectly and look great. I haven’t had time to post all the details but basically I added a total of 3 Idols and blended them to the ruins wall. My good friend Medisinyl was kind enough to paint them for me so they match the awesome POA rails I got from him as well. All in all I think they look great and add a subtle but noticeable detail to the ruins.

F03AB37D-779C-4A01-B64D-EDCCF1FA83C8 (resized).jpeg

B1FFD995-C406-4553-A87A-D281BE52E918 (resized).jpegD9497E06-7E51-4456-8794-F9ADE58E009C (resized).jpeg

I would buy the ruins and the POA part but I'm not interested in the rest. Too bad they insist on selling as a whole set.

Who here got a Mirco PF for there IJ

3D printer is just a tool. 3D design -especially art related- is a different animal.

Hey all - new to the club on owning IJ and the mode start shot is very rarely a smooth shot in - I would say 75-80% of the time the shot rattles back out without settling in and I’m just wondering if this is common or something unique to my machine that I should look to adjust. Was considering a softer rubber on the posts on either side to possibly soften/slow the speed on a shot that might sideswipe those on the way in, but the problem is there it seems even on a direct shot that’s straight in.

Thanks for any feedback / suggestions!

In the beginning, God created Adam. And Adam asked unto God the very first question, "How dost one prevent mode hole rejects in thy Indiana Jones pinball?"
And God shrugged and said, "lol. I dunno."

And so, humanity has asked that same question, in every age, since the dawn of time.

But more seriously, you're going to hear a lot of opinions. What works for one person may not be as foolproof for the next. In my experience, the only consistently reliable solution was to remove the deflector entirely. Put some foam on the back rail to soften the blow. Everything else I've tried is very literally hit-and-miss.

And it's here I also mention the new "must have" accessory, Lao's Antidote. Haven't tried it myself, but I put a lot of trust in @Ricochet's perfectionism and attention to detail, and there are others here who will be happy to tell you all about it.

Lior mods are of excellent quality and look neat. I have the full POTC set installed and like it. for IJTPA Only (minor) issue, they darken the playfield and you need extra ligth to compensate.

Well I follow you on lior mod, I installed the full set on my Potc and it’s amazing, but for whatever reason the ijtpa is more “flashy” or “comic” and therefore hyper realism doesn’t cut it imho, so I went the other way with the overblown approach by illuminating both the ruin and the path by inside yellow and red leds. For the planes you are wrong, they do better the pinball by a mile.

I have Ricochet IJ Start Mode deflector mod (aka Lao's Antidote) - works great for balls from both flippers and it's very rare to get a reject (although I have had a couple in the 6 months I've had it installed).

Here are the relevant posts:
The mod - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/161#post-6261918
Additional info - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/176#post-6432889
Installation video -

First l like it a lot and will most certainly purchase end of moth bank account permitting

Following my previous remark on lior mod realism vs the pinball original comic strip aesthetic, I wonder if a version with more “flashy” color would fit better. For example a “sun set” background ( similar to the original plastic ) instead of the old wood. Or the overall symbol in bright gold instead of a used one.

it is with great pride and great joy that I share with you the article from pinballmag France concerning this wonderful machine, friends.

thank you for your support around the project and thank you for your support for the votes of the twipys award in the best mod 2021 category!

https://pinballmag.fr/indiana-jones-total-mod-joris-bartkowski/

Antidote for the win. Another pinsider sent me one ans it works great.
Was finally able to beat the game thanks to it!
Thanks Ricochet

Now that I have completed the game I am seriously contemplating selling it

Yes I've been wondering how to do a more image based version that aligns with the play field graphics. I had something in mind, which I may do a test on at some point. For now I try to paint all my mods in a light sandstone so they add realism but don't darken the play field too much.

Price wise, it would seem be a good time to sell. My Indy would be the second to last game I'll ever sell from my current collection. If there is something you would rather see in place of your Indy, go for it!

I'm still waiting for my antidote. I got in the que back in September. I've done pretty well with some foam in the meantime, but still get about 25% rejects.

As promised, a final update. You can see the increase in detail on the medallion compared to the previous version. I'm really pleased with this. For those that have messaged in the last few days, I'll reply to you asap, but please know that I've seen your messages. I'm just trying to get some extras made to accommodate recent additional interest.

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Nice job. Looks like the upper part is not FDM process.

Correct - SLA print.
The rest is FDM.
Once in the machine the medallion is the main focus so I wanted it to be the best it can be.

Lol - thanks much for the feedback - gives me options and glad to hear I’m not alone!

Excellent - thanks for the feedback and links - will be getting and trying suggested fix!

Yes that mode start antidote is the best mod and remedy you can get for IJ. Speaking of remedies, how would I fix these two issues:

Green Arrow - the ball will sometimes hang on that rubber in front of the left pop bumper, I believe it only happens when the ball is rolling slowly. I have to tilt the machine to get it rolling again. Is it just a design flaw? I've seen it happen on a couple IJs.

Blue Arrow - After rolling down the idol ramp, the ball will sometimes bounce on that rubber behind the right slingshot and immediately go into the outlane, draining the ball. Maybe something to do with that wire gate it rolls through before hitting the slingshot post?

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What pitch is your game at? Is it level?

Nice topper, did you design it, or did you use a ready to use thingiverse model?

Remove the mylar in the yellow outlined area. This is not my playfield but it is a good photo of the problem area. Once I removed the mylar in this area my problem went away.

Remove Mylar (resized).jpg

I replaced it with a one piece solution. No seam in it to catch the ball.

You dont want to remove it totally as the POA drop zone needs protection.

The best solutuon was to just make the 2 mylars one piece.

Wheras just having single mylar under the POA will just move the ball hang to under the POA.

Another ball hang in that area is to have a ball come to rest at the left edge of the lower pop bumper.

This can be sorted by making the lower pop bumper extremely sensitive (takes awhile to get it right) and increasing the playfield pitch slightly until it stops resting there.

I ended up tilting the horizontal pitch down on the left side of the game by a tenth of a degree.

So far no more hangs.

Yes the same thing happens with my also just when the ball is going really slow that happens

Wonder if you could just put a little wire spring thing like my old Hook had in there. I remember thinking that was a smart design idea when I used to have one. Had them on both sides of the lower pop bumper. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/37#post-5149143

This picture brings up another topic and how it appears that maybe there were other design plans for this area that were scrapped. I wonder if there was going to be another subway shot or drain from the upper playfield into a subway and get sent to the idol lock. Ive dreamed up a couple ways that could have added to the game. Mechanically I can see a plan for that but I'm no coder and would have no idea how to make such a dream happen.

Great idea - I've thought of putting a little adhesive rubber dot to stop the ball resting there, but it doesn't get stuck there often and a tap on the upper side of the cabinet will dislodge it.

Guessing the wire was quite firm on the post to stop it rotating?

EDIT: To answer my question, looks like the wire is fixed to the PF
Hook - bumper ball hang wire (resized).jpg

The area in yellow is not under either of the POA holes. I just made sure I removed enough to get around the turn.

Hey all, my left flipper went dead the other day. I checked that fuse and it tested good. I replaced it anyway. Still dead. Both flipper buttons test good and the left eos triggers normally (when I move the flipper mech manually). When it died, I was at the poa and it kinda glitched and stuttered when moving to the left. Now poa moves both ways normally. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Do all the wires on the coil look like they're firmly attached?

If its not a short, bad coil or broken off wire, It might be a bad LM339 chip on the fliptronics board.

IJ eats up fliptronics boards. Its good to have a spare on hand:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-15028_A-15472-1

Swap out the board with a new one to rapidly check it.

Also, swap the cabinet flipper boards left to right etc and see if the problem moves to the other side for a quick test on those.

Checked. I’ll double check.

Ok. Great idea, I’m dumb. I have those parts. Basic troubleshooting. I swear my brain seizes up sometimes

Thanks both of you.

Does anyone know if the Endprodukt Pinsound file on the Pinsound site is current? I read that at one time it was missing callouts and he had an updated version that you had to contact him for. How do I contact him? Thx!

It's not his final version. I contacted him on PinSide and he sent me the final product.

Perhaps you can do a google drive link?

I would be interested in the final version as well?

So, I found this one which sounds like it has potential.

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/369-jedi-re-master-of-endproduk-sound-files/

If it was my work I would, but he politely asks for a donation if u use his version

Hello all, so is the right ramp incredibly hard to hit consistently on everyone’s machine? I’m wondering if my pitch is off. What do most people prefer their pitch at? Thank you!

My right ramp got much more consistent after a flipper rebuild and new coils. The former might be enough on your machine. It was obvious that my coils had been pretty hot before.

I think I'm 6.8-7°. The main playfield plays best there for me. I have shims under the forward bracket of the POA to help it play better by being more shallow.

I'm not far from you, if you ever want to come try another machine and compare notes or try out Pinsound if you don't have it.