Made some updates based on the comments. New version is taller, but still has plenty of clearance from the glass. Better clearance from the mini play-field (although the old one was fine too, this one has more room on mine which should mean better on all machines). Let me know any thoughts. Still a little time to make tweaks.

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I like it @jazzbouche. Sign me up.

Noticed you even reoriented the birds head correctly. Nice attention to detail.

+1

On a different topic, I've been having 'Sound board interface error' messages pop up intermittently (Changed all the ribbon cables etc), and decided to poke around my pinside to see if it's that. I updated the firmware and it stopped reading the endprodukt sound files on the usb drive. Since then I can't get it to read the files. It will work if I download a different Indy sound package from the website, so it must be something to do with the files or the usb drive (I'm guessing). Has anyone else encountered this? Thanks.

It might have to do with weak 5v circuit.

This has happened quite a bit.

Rebuilding the power supply elements might be in order, or send the board out for repair.

urghh...I've had this niggling concern it might be this. Would that affect the pinsound at all? Really annoying I can't get it to read the sound files that it used to pick up fine.

If it has been a long time since you have updated your firmware the problem might lie with the original files. They changed file organization awhile back so older copies of mixes won't work unless they are updated/converted to the new organization. If you redownload the endproukt mix it "should" have been updated to the new file format.

That would make sense. I haven’t updated firmware in years. I thought the version accredited to him on their site was one that he disowned though? Will message him and ask.

Thanks, I think this is the issue.

I upgraded my IH with Pinsound Plus and Shaker. I have downloaded the IJ_Remastered_Endprodukt which sounds great, but the issue is i dont get any shaker motion from it. I have checked my pinsound-self-diagnois file on the usb and it mention "IJ_Remastered_Endprodukt (active) > Motion Control: no official nor user shaker events found". It have detected my motion control board as it says "DEVICE DETECTED ------------------ Motion Control".

I have read many post in here where you mention the IJ Remastered by Endprodukt should have motion control enabled, but mine dont. Is the file a wrong one on Pinside forum or what is going on? I have tried opening the pinsound studio but it always crash on my computer so i need to try it on another computer.

Can anyone tell me what is wrong? Is the file corrupt or is something wrong with my board?

I had not isseus getting the motion control to work on my T2.

The file you have does not have any shakers enabled.

There probaly isnt anything wrong with the board or the motion control.

Wipe the USB stick and install the classic or original orchestration that has the shakers enabled.

Your diagnostic will pick it up and you will see the official shakers available.

Make sure you have the latest firmware installed.

The firmware holds all the official shaker routines.

If your orchestration has no shakers you will have to make them in pinsound studio for that orchestration.

Having a bit of an issue over the holiday, and I'm having trouble tracing the root of it.

My right ramp flashers are locked on, always. There are three flashers, which are tied together - the one on top of the ramp, one beneath the ramp, and the assocaited flasher in the backbox. I've re-seated everything with no success. My mechanical skills are servicable, but my diagnostic skills need work. If anyone could point me in the right diretion, it would improve my Christmas immediately.

Thanks!

Switch off the pin.
Reseat the ribbon cable between MPU and power driver board.

If the flasher is still on, restart the game without ribbon cable connection between MPU and power driver board.

Potential root cause #1: this flasher circuit is grounded somewhere. Measure it with DMM.

Potential root cause #2: one of the driver transistor is shorted. Measure Q24 with DMM. It's a TIP102 transitor. If it's OK, measure Q23, it's a 2N5401 transistor.

Thanks for geting back to me, Davi. Pulled the ribbon cable, but the flashers stay on whether it's in or out. I have my DMM at the ready, but again, I'm not the most savvy when it comes to diagnostics.
Where and how to I go about testing the circuit to see if it's grounded?
Can I test a transistor while it's on the board, or does it have to be removed?
I have a Rottendog power board, and I can't even seem to locate Q23. Maybe it's mounted on the backside?

Apologies, I'm an artist, not an electrician.

DMM to continuity mode, it's look like #4 as an example.
One probe to ground (ground braid). 2nd probe to flashers leg.

No need to remove the transistor.

Read this, it's a useful thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-flasher-issue-with-restored-game-power-always-on

Thanks a million, I'll see what I can do.
Though I'm unsure what you mean by "...it's look like #4 as an example."

It's the DMM continuity, sorry, I forgot to attach a pic.

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No reading on the flashlamp circuit being grounded. I've tested continuity across all the TIP102 transistors on the power board. Sure enough, Q24 is reading as shorted. Also Q32, which appears to be the Plane LED flashers, but I've never noticed a problem with those (they work in test on the plane, but no corresponding flash on the backbox, which I think there's supposed to be).

I guess that means I've got to replace the transistors. I think I have at least one spare TIP102 floating around, but to be safe I'm guessing I should probably replace both at the same time.

Thanks for your help! Hopefully that does it.

Hey mate - good to see you've tracked it down. Thought I'd just mention if you don't have the schematics on hand or unsure what to check, go into flasher test mode and scroll through to the flasher with the issue, then hit the start button - it will scroll through diagnostic information including the associated wire colours, connector pins, fuse and the drive transistors for that flasher. This works for solenoids as well. Of course you then need to know what tests to perform ... but hey that's what we're all here for

Thanks for all the advice!

I replaced Q24 and got everything hooked back up. Everything "works," but I put that in quotes because it's still not quite right.

The right ramp flashers (of which there are three - the green dome up top, under the ramp, and in the backbox) now flash, but they are much weaker than every other set of flashers. They flash in test, but they are very dim, and sometimes fail to pulse at all. If I go to the "All Lights and Flashers" test, which is supposed to pulse all flashers dimly, the right ramp flashers do not illuminate at all.

What could cause this to work, but be weaker? Replacement transistor was faulty? Could I have made a mistake somewhere that could cause this?

The Rottendog board is a bit different from the original, and I don't know if there are any special considerations I should be aware of. For example, most odd numbered transistors (Q19, Q21, Q23...Q53, Q55, Q57) do not exist. Instead, there are some small flat components (possibly surface mount resistors) on the backside of the board bridging from the 3rd pin on the TIP102 transistors that weren't present on the original board. Could my dim flasher problem be due to this resistor? Due to the very small size of these components, it was very difficult to tell if the proper connection was made. Wish I'd taken a picture while I had the board out.

Holy smokes. I've had this machine for...two decades...and I had no idea you could press start in test mode to drill down for more info. Thanks for that!

Did you do the flasher tests with the coin door open? Try with the coin door closed (remove glass and lift playfield for access).

See if inside your cab there is a yellow key, the key is to lock the the coin door switch on and leave the coin door open, often used to actually do these test and push on the button while you watch the screen.

The so called yellow key does not look like a key btw, but it is some sort of wedge thing that clamps onto the switch to lock it on.

Lol will post a photo later.
Just pointing it out because maybe you have it since you have owned the game for 20 years…

It's a Service Switch Actuator (shown at the start of the manual) and used on games before they introduced the pull out switch button on the later model games. Marco has them for sale https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11791 or you can make your own on a 3D printer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845560 ... or you can simply hold the button it with one hand

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That is the one.
Thanks for the 3d printer files link, will definitely use in the future.
Wondering what else is out there that can be 3D printed.

Sweet I was wonder what that was I had one of them too

I have never had the service switch actuator. I have, since I have owned this machine, used a thick rubber band instead. Does the trick! I do know all about the service switch, though.

Maybe I can clarify. The flashers ALL work during test - but the ones that rely on the recently replaced transistor Q24 are...dimmer. Like 50% dimmer. It's not the bulbs.
If I'm in test mode and I'm checking left ramp, those flashers work at 100% intensity. Switch one position over to right ramp, and they only flash at 50% intensity.
Switch test mode over to "All Lamps and Flash", and all flashers pulse at 50% intensity as expected...except for the three flashers associated with the right ramp, which are at 0%.

This also applies during actual gameplay. Right ramp flashers are 50%, all other flashers are 100%.

I suspect it's either a problem with the new transistor, or the surface mount resistor on the backside of the Rottendog board, but I could really use some insight from the more electrically experienced. Or someone who has some familiarity with the Rottendog board specifically.

Thanks To everybody who vote for my Indiana Jones custom Disneyland édition cabinet mod for the 2021twipys !!!

I'm very glad to tell you that i.m nominated for the twipys!

Final vote start today ! Thanks for support !

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As the absolutely giddy owner of one of these, I would humbly ask you to vote for this “mod” in the twipys. Jjlp truly deserves the credit for one of the coolest things ever done to a pin. The word mod doesn’t do it justice. It’s a literal artistic masterpiece. It will never leave my home while I’m alive.

I own and love the animated grogu mod (another nominee). But come on. Different league.
please vote and spread the word:
https://twipys.com/2021-twipys-ballot/

Thanks for support Mike !
Please vote for this Indiana Disneyland édition cabinet as your favorite mod 2021 at the twipys !!

To all the Indiana Jones owners, dont miss my custom Wood handle for the pistol ! You need it !
All the details here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-wood-handle-gun-plates-mod

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What a machine.

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You need my custom Wood plates handle

Never had a topper for a pinball machine but since i got my IJ I thought that I needed to try to make something.

Played around with my 3D printer for a very long time to print all the pieces for a custom topper. Roughly about 220 hours of printing! Finding all the bits a piece to fit together was a fun process. The bulbs for the torches on each side is the fire bulb from comet pinball. It’s gives a really cool effect.

What do people has as toppers for their IJ and how many have made a homemade version?

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Here are my walnut pistol handles. I like them.

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Thanks for feedback !

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Here’s mine!

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Looks perfect!

I like that color

You could preorder one pair if you want

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-wood-handle-gun-plates-mod

Bonjour Jjlp, quelle bois tu conseilles pour une poignée "gold" ? Aussi peut on avoir un discount pour un shipping franchouillard ?

Bien à toi.

Jazzbouche any update on the jackpot medallion?

Would not it be awesome if this game was updated with new cose like funhouse 2.0?
I know I know, licensing issues…
But would not it be awesome.
So much potential…

Not for me. I like the look but it’s not a home run. And definitely not at that price.

Totally agree....$1800 is a total joke .... I like the look, but that price is just stupid

Hey guys! I just did a Video review/install for the Art of pinball ruins kit, go check it out if your thinking about buying a kit for your machine.

I'm sure a few people would buy, but its bout 2X overpriced....he makes decent stuff (I have the ruins and idol), but his pricing has got out of hand

I think it does not look well with the playfield art. The playfield art is very comic/graphic style, adding realistic stuff to your machine just makes no sense...it is too detailed, too brown and too expensive....easy pass for me....imho.

Very cool but at that price I would just buy a 3d printer and try my best to make my own.
By the time I am $1800 into it, I will most likely have awesome plastics and a new skill.
That is me, i am a nerd.

It's a easy pass for me I just don't like the look of all that too much of it and the price also

No doubt....u can buy a color dmd, pin sound + board, new speakers/sub, powder coat all your trim, legs and gun, and add Korn's killer interactive planes for less than the cost of this set....