No that's an original PF. B/W sourced PFs from multiple suppliers (even for the same game due to the quantities required). In your case, your PF was made by Churchill on 12th July and Sun Process did the screen printing and clear coating. I've not seen the "A Team" previously but seems to be part of the SP stamp.

Thank you for the explanation!

I need to resolve mine, it is very frustrating.
Reject is 50/50 or more and eject is random and weak, drives me nutz. Been playing the game by avoiding modes because there is a big chance of draining after ejection, and it can randomly go to the left outlane or often sdtm…

How is the scoup supposed to work under normal operation? I dont remember it being so shitty back in the day. Is the culprit a bad coil or weak arm? Or what.

Someone please, Send some vids of a normal scoop in action please

I believe the issue is more due to position of the scoop relative to the flippers - that is it needs to handle full blooded shots from flipper (FL-11629) which is one of the strongest in power (but this power is needed for the ramp and orbit). Overtime there has been many methods for fixing the scoop - until recently mine had the deflector removed with the foam on the sides of the ball guide which worked well although it was still possible to get the odd rejection. Of course all machines are slightly different, so a technique on one machine may not fix another however Ricochet has persisted in designing a deflector (named the antidote) that is capable of handling everything from the soft slow rolling ball through to the full powered shot and given the relatively cheap price, I'd simply recommend buying one rather than trying to work it out yourself.

Do you have the Ricochet Antidote?

I am on the list for one. Will definitely get one when it’s my turn.

How fast should the ball be ejected off the scoup? I find the ejection a bit weak? Is it normal?

I’ve messed with the stock eject & metal scoop backing with very little luck. I’d seriously wait for the antidote. I hacked a scoop which helped but it’s still not 100%. So unless you want to jack up your game I’d consider just waiting for the Antidote

The eject is not super fast, just a standard kick. If you lift the PF it should be free and clear when you pull it manually. If it’s rough then you might need to clean/grease the shaft. There is a spring so it does have some tension from that

Manny65 and thechakapakuni you are spot on regarding the mode hole behavior.

The impetus for me attempting this project was my restoration. I went from the weaker flippers FL-11630 to the stronger flippers FL-11629 (the FL-11629s are the one's called out in the parts list). Not only that, I now had a nice waxed clear-coated mirror finished playfield. My IJ is SUPER fast. I can easily hit the right ramp with the right flipper. I believe this is how the game should feel... it doesn't feel like a widebody AT ALL. Air balls were also a HUGE problem, solved with Davi air ball protectors. With a nice clean restoration I naturally installed a Cliffy around the hole, but this also causes excess bounce; ESPECIALLY with the higher power flippers. My newly re-minted IJ was absolutely perfect with the exception of the mode shot... I had like 95% failure rate and was relegated to hitting it from the left flipper (yuck).

I tried TONS of different scoop designs. Parabolic scoops, deflectors with built in rubber stoppers, V shaped, Z shaped, U shaped... all worked in some way or another on my machine but didn't hold up in beta testing. Eventually a design emerged that seemed to fit the bill. I needed to hit that money shot from the right flipper and have it work... the deflector I have today seems to have the right stuff. Nothing is perfect... there are trade-offs with everyone's take on fixing this problem. I shot for perfection, although I don't think I've quite achieved it (which I am totally ok with) however I think I've come close enough for the majority of machines that are plagued with the issue.

Here are a few key points regarding Lao's Antidote, what it is, what it does, how it differs from the factory deflector:

1. It has a pivoting inertial damper, you may not see it in some of the pictures. It is a very heavy gauge strike plate that absorbs the energy of the ball.
2. It has ball-directing ball guides on the left and right side. These tighten up the shot and change the trajectory of the ball slightly.
3. It has a rigid frame. Normally the plastic allows quite a bit of ball bounce in the cavity. This being metal eliminates that.
4. It serves as a virtually indestructible plastic protector. As you can see from the pictures the Antidote's footprint provides significant protection to the mode hole plastic.

I tell everyone that has modified their mode deflector, especially by removing the stock deflector and adding padding. If you expect Lao's Antidote to behave like that... it will feel weird and you may not like it. When you remove the deflector and add padding, you make a very soft easy to hit shot. The Antidote is does not do this... you will also not hear a "thunk" ... the Antidote sounds more like loose change because of the pivoting deflector. The primary goal of this product is to provide a universal, very simple easy to install... no maintenance solution to mode hole rejects, as compared to the factory deflector. The success of the Antidote was not measured against anything other than playing the game, making controlled shots to the mode hole. There were a few slight tweaks to the design from the initial version, nothing major.

I hope this helps and I hope that those who are using Lao's Antidote really feel like it has upped the excitement of the game.

I am always around and always available for support or questions.

Weird issue, my gun trigger on Indiana Jones now registers as closed when the switch is NOT depressed and open when the trigger is depressed. Took the gun apart and there is nothing obstructing the switch and it registers closed when its open.

Anyone ever see this before? By the way ball launches withough issue when I pull the trigger, I noticed this in choose wisely mode it automatically selects without giving me a chance.

I had this issue last week, and it turned out it was the out lane switch in front of the gun shorting. It would think a ball is sitting there and it automatically by programming triggers the gun.
I am not sure if this is your issue, it might be something else on the matrix ghosting the trigger, however, I do not think so because it is happening during a mode when no ball is in play...
Looking at the switch on the lane might be worth a shot.

I've installed mine and had a small pin party with probably 10-15 plays on IJ with zero failure to capture the ball. definitely a must have item for this game at a very reasonable price. thanks Ricochet!

Anyone else love the air balls in Indy? I feel like that's a pretty unpopular opinion around here. I think it adds a ton of excitement, plastics and playfield be damned! My favorite is hitting the single drop target and having it bounce off the back of the 3 drop targets and into the ball lock for a "You cheat" lock.

For me, taming that wildness feels counter to the sense of adventure and peril the theme has.

I'm not a fan of them cracking the glass or smashing my KornFreak28 model planes... otherwise I would just live with them

I am worried about breaking those planes too when I finally get them. But cracking glass? Is that an honest concern? I never thought that was an issue with tempered pfs.

I have seen pfs shatter from being taken out of a game and gently placed on the ground. The sides are the weak areas. Also I know a person who is literally terrified by balls hitting the glass due to their fear of it shattering. Maybe they got PTSD from it happening once.

Can you imagine the adrenaline high you’d get if you combined JRD’s “Suuuuper Jackpot” call out with the glass turning into a million pieces! Would also give me a great excuse to finally start my swap

I used the term "cracking" incorrectly... I didn't mean actually "breaking" the glass... it just makes a good cracking sound.

are the planes still being made and sold? I would be interested!

Reach out to KornFreak28

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service#post-4557663

Just cruising through this thread for something else spotted this post, that's my "thing" so I thought I would supply some feedback. I had a dent where the ball would hit the ramp and it would occasionally get stuck in there and need some nudging to move. I fixed it out with a few taps of the hammer but I wanted to avoid it happening again. An added benefit of the "speed wedge" at the top of the ramp is the balls detects quicker in the subway. I have had mine installed for 2 plus years and very little wear on the ramp so it is holding up very well, I did print it at 100% infill so it is solid.

Cheers,
Wob

Do you still make those? The link doesn’t work

It's just got part of the Pinside "[quoted image]" appended - here's the working link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3657488

Awesome, thanks. I have some random subway sticking issues and this looks like a good solution. You should call it the “Chachapoyan Warriors Boulder Speed Ramp”

Haha, Nice, way more inventive than my name I just updated the description. Please post and make or comments on Thingiverse, it has had plenty of views and downloads but I am yet to see someone make it. It's an easy print, mine is in ABS but should be fine down in PLA, I probably wouldn't go PETG as I tried something else in PETG and it failed almost instantly.

I made a lock hole protector that is holding up well, my hole was a little beat up https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3812663, again printed in ABS

Lastly there was a mode hole protector, as I couldn't source a cliffy at the time, this didn't fair so well, it's just too thin and broke after awhile. I tried it in TPU but it just didn't really offer any protection as again too thin, I did get a friend with a SLA printer to do it in a couple of types of resin but I have yet to try them out. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3812654

I modelled all the above from my machine, the subway is a remix\merge of two existing items, just customised for mounting in the subway, the others where modelled from scratch with several iterations to get the fit right, your millage may vary depending on tolerances but they are all quick and easy to print if you have a printer.

Cheers,
Wob

I was thinking on installing my Pinstadium Lights in my IJ as well, does anyone had feedback regarding Pinstadiums in their IJ?

Also, where does this molex jumper connect to for an IJ install? All I found is videos that are for alligator clip connectors

Pinstadiums (resized).jpg

Oh nice. I wonder if the mode lock protector will work with The Antidote? I’ve had issues with every type of cliffy I’ve installed there

I've got PinStadium in most of my games but Indy is not one of them. I tried but ended up taking them out.

Pinball lighting is a subjective thing and for me it just makes Indy too bright. The bulk of the light is thrown on the ruins and path of adventure making them look like they're under police interrogation. You can adjust the PinStadiums to make that look better but then you're not really filling up the central playfield area with much light.

I do like the having some light above the bridge though. There are several ways to light it and different mods available.

Pay no attention to the cocked up flippers… but if you like light I’d recommend Comet Sunlights.

… and yeah it’s personal pref. I also have an a acrylic back board … so I’ve a ton of light coming from that.

Lots of people really like the classic look of the incandescent bulbs with this theme and I get that and think it also looks great.

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Durability is the big issue with that spot, the part needs to be thin or it messes with locks, but it's too thin hold up (ABS lasted a month or so, PETG lasted like 2 balls). I really need to test the SLA printed parts to see how they go, but getting to that spot is a pain.

It usually fails round the part it moves down and into the hole, I could modify it to be just flat like the cliffy part, but it wouldn't really protect the wear spots I have on mine.

Comet sunlights across the board for everything!

They really are perfect

I just used then 100% on my recent funhouse restore as well as my Dr Who.

not to take away from the great work done by Ricochet.. I am just wondering if this is legit:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit#post-5852296

I have that kit and am currently in testing (waiting for a POA opto to arrive so game is partly disassembled). In addition to just installing the kit, I did have to remove and slightly bend the deflector plate downward. But I've had numerous shots to the mode scoop with that setup and had no rejects. So it may turn out to be another perfectly viable option. I will report back after more extensive testing later this week.

Tested - I did not see major improvement.

I basically lowered my eject scoop (which is what that kit does) and it helps a little but it’s not a solution

It may work perfectly well… there are several key factors that affect the success of any solution… and they all play off of each other.

1. Flipper strength
2. Mode hole wear
3. Cliffy thickness
4. Position of stock deflector
5. Distortion of the hole wire guide

I'm actually getting closer to finding a lot of game specific parts for my build. Does anyone have any spare parts?

I need:
Apron
Path of adventure assembly
Captive ball assembly
Orbit ball guide

20210810_132224 (resized).jpg

It wasnt the outlane switch, I put a new diode and switch in the gun, didnt change anything. I guess I have to look what else on the green-orange matrix could be causing it.

So this is working about 4 out of 5 times. Will try the antidote once it's available.

New POA opto board fixed the stuttering. Now to learn how to make these super tight shots!

The shooter lane, not the outlane…
Did you check that switch?

If you are getting the gun trigger inside a mode, when there are no balls on the playfield, there is nothing triggering the switches to cause a ghost switch…?

in other words I suspect a short is causing it and the only switch that comes to mind is the shooter lane switch.

Unless another switch is stuck/closed?

I did check the shooter lane switch. However, I reviewed the switch matrix and noticed there are switches in column 4 that are not supposed to be registered as closed either.

IMG_4573 (resized).jpg

some of those switches are always closed, mine is like that too, which ones are you referring to?... were you pulling the trigger when you took this pic?

Thanks for your help.

I was NOT pulling the trigger.
I dont believe the following should be registering as closed.

Column 4 Row1 Left Ramp Enter
Column 4 Row 2 Right Ramp Enter
Column 4 Row 3 Top Idol Enter
Column 4 Row 4 Right Popper

no worries, I am still learning how to read the matrix and been studying it, so helping you also helps me to learn more about it I hope we can figure it out.
I will check mine and compare it to yours. if the trigger isn't pressed I think it looks like it is closed on the test, I will check mine.

I found this very helpful..

Those are normally closed (because they are non obstructed optos, unlike the flipper opto), when a ball interrupts the light, they will register as open.

Yup that one is a good one, I had seen it last week, it does a good job and It tells you when you have a ghost switch.

I still do not understand the diode function here as in the diagram, the flow of the diode is the opposite as to what is suggested in the vid.

Nonetheless the theory about ghost switches is clear.

I have not had time to look at the game yet.
Is your trigger switch always showing as closed when in test?

Yes always closed until I pull the trigger than its open.

That is not how the trigger works I think it is open, then closed when pulling the trigger.

If it is always active or ‘closed’ in the switch test then that is the problem.

When testing, The square for the trigger should only be visible when the trigger is pulled/closed.

It often comes up that replacement aprons are hard to find for Indy and other widebodies. Somebody recently pointed me to a French pinball forum that shared these custom jobbies from a few years ago.

Anybody seen these before? Have we discussed these here in the past? Maybe not my style, but a neat idea. Especially if you can't find an original apron

IMG_20210814_074459_290 (resized).jpg

IMG_20210814_074501_773 (resized).jpg

IMG_20210814_074504_898 (resized).jpg

IMG_20210814_074508_469 (resized).jpg

Those are WICKED!!!!

Oh man that last one is slick, looks like it might be 3D printed actually, wonder if the file is out there somewhere?
The brass one is slick too but I feel like you gotta have a HEP or something if you're gonna be that shiny!

Assuming you already have a real apron underneath, I love the Lior mod for it. It's still available (but marked up a lot) from here: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/indyapron.html

3878AC7E-ACFB-4C60-B115-4C0C17665F09 (resized).jpeg