They're visible on the right hand side of the first pic, but hard to spot it the last pic which is more of distant shot - so probably comes down to personal preference as to whether that's an issue or not.

I presume these are not screen printed (or whatever method was used on the originals) are they? Sorry if this is an obvious question...

which leads me to the next question, are these or radicals the only options available?

Ok thanks for the info bud great too know when I get my done

There are no screen printed decals available anymore unless you find someone willing to part with a set.

Mirco also sells traditional (digitally printed) decals not just radcals

The original art always seemed to be more red, but some decals out there are much too red. The Mirco decals look too light of an orange.
s-l640 (resized).jpg

Agreed, its tough t get that orange and yellow tint right with a print vs screened ink... I don't think I've seen any that have got it right on the money. Mirco's decals are probably the closest I've seen to the original... albeit a bit lighter.

This is my cab with screen printed decals.
indy (resized).jpg

For comparison, take a look at the original cabinet vs the decals:
IJ Halftone

One of the things I never liked about reproductions of halftone patterns is that it's often not a 'true' halftone. You can see in the decal repros that the black actually becomes more transparent to create the gradient (creating shades of blue), but in the original there are only two ink colours - black and blue. It's the spacing of those colours that create the gradient. You can also see the true dot halftone printing on the left vs the unusual "brick" pattern below the pyramid.

Also, in the repro you can really see the streaking in the blue area as the printer makes each pass. In the original, it's just solid blue

dammit I do not like the look of these reproductions, I guess they are ok, but If I was going through the trouble of restoring the cab I would want solid colors and not printing lines...

Does anyone have pics handy of what radicals look like? Even though they might seem somewhat 'artificial and glossy' if the printing and detail is better, I might just go that route.

I actually wouldn't use the image in the flyer as a good reference. The reds are much too dark, which is apparent just by looking at the reds in the Indiana jones Logo on the cabinet. Even comparing it to the "The Adventure Continues..." header on the same page and you can see the discrepancy.

From what I know of the original colours, these are probably the most accurate ones I've seen. These are Mirco's? I wouldn't be surprised if they had access to the original Pantone codes to get the inks as close to the original as possible.

My pic is my cabinet with screen printed decals.... just for reference

Here is the RADCAL look... this would be the best possible installation of RADCALS as it is HEP:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/151#post-5767680

I have both Mirco's RadCals and his Decals (both uninstalled). I'll try to take a picture of them side by side for color comparison.

BTW: I recently did a IJ cab with RadCals. I liked it a lot. However, I'm doing mine next and decided to purchase both sets (RadCals & decals). I'll decide which to install after my 3-4 other current projects get done.

Kerry

True silkscreened decals is clearly the most accurate representation of the original cabinet, but is anyone even making these any more?

And @ricochet, I hope you don't think your decals are too light. Being screened, I'm willing to bet that they either used the original ink codes or are close enough that you couldn't differentiate by eye.

Thank you Ricochet and Kerry_Richard

what an awesome bunch of people in this thread, thank you so much.

Nope I was referring to the Mirco decals … as they look a little light to me… but that may just be the photograph.

Oh, I was confused. From your post with the picture of your cab, it sounded like you were saying THOSE were the Mirco decals. But they're not - you didn't specify where yours came from.

I don't like red style repro decals... Orange tone is the right choice.
This is my restored IJ with repro decal. I am not sure it's still available, but I can ask if there is an interest.

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Though the lighting isn't as nice as Davi & @ricochet's shots, here is a picture of the original silkscreened cabinet (no decals):
IJ Original

OK... I set up my folding table in driveway and took 4 pictures (RadCals vs Decals). These are both from Mirco

I have installed both RadCals and decals. What I like about RadCals is they are significantly easier to prep cabinet before installation (fill holes, sand and paint entire cabinet black). No removal of glass side rails. EZPZ peel and stick on.

There is an amazing glossy finish to them, however, it may not sit well with the purists. What I don't like about RadCals is the ability to move them to match the corner's front with sides. There is no trimming and IJ has front corners that need to be closely matching. Many originals are way off.

I will say pictures are hard to evalute. Especially with RadCals having a thin protective film on top you peel off after installation.

Hope this is helpful

DSCN9684 (resized).JPG

DSCN9685 (resized).JPG

DSCN9683 (resized).JPG

DSCN9686 (resized).JPG

Here is screen printed decal

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What you'll immediately notice from these pictures is a difference in the brown tones. In the printed version, the brown has a much more reddish hue, which gives Indy a very pink tone in his shaded areas. The darker, less saturated browns in the silkscreened version avoid this.

That said, I think Mirco's versions actually look pretty good. Both the decals and the Radcals.

Agreed, I think Mirco's decals and radicals are very nice.

I am wondering what the installation of radicals look like, I feel like if you need to cut the edges to match the cabinet edge, it will be harder with the radicals of course having a properly sized cab and properly prepped wood, etc would amplify the margin for any errors...

I need to watch more videos on proper decal installation, I think it is almost always needed to trim the edges?

I’ve not installed them as the colour difference put me off along with the fact the Matt finish is so different to the original. The decals feel good quality and certainly have the feel of a silkscreen decal but for me it’s not close enough. Finding silkscreened decals now is almost impossible, well a full set anyhow!!

Does anyone have a spare left hand cabinet side?

Mirco has no more standard IJ decals left and it doesn’t appear he will produce anymore.

Looks great. Did you prep the original cabinet or buy a new aftermarket cab?

I put a lot of work into keeping the original cabinet… maybe too much
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-#post-5205228

Oh nice. I’ll use that as my template. I have Radcals, new PF, CPR back glass, etc all waiting for a rainy day

I installed radcals last summer. The only cabinet prep I did was touching up one chewed up corner with bondo and painting over the old faded decals with black paint. Personally I love the look and think they turned out great. The radcals are thick enough that you really don't need to get too worked up over minor imperfections in the wood. I would recommend painting at least though, if you scroll through the radcal threads you can see examples of others that chose not to, and the old artwork can be visible through them. As far as the radcals themselves, I did have to trim about 2-3 mm off of the edge of the front piece so that the start and super ball holes lined up reasonably well. Of course, the holes were pre drilled in mine, and I think Mirco has stopped pre drilling those holes due to others complaining about this. Best of luck.

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I check this thread at least twice a week dreaming about the day I'll eventually join the club.

*sigh*

Maybe you need to put in a wanted ad like this?

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Hello, I have a simple question.. I'm trying to remove my Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure DMD to install the No Glare Film from the inside.

I opened the top Panel and at the point shown below where all I need to do is remove the 4 screws I circled in Red.

However when I remove these 4 bolts and try to pull it up, it seems like it's stuck or glued somehow.. I'm pulling and I see the green circuit board bending resisting coming up.

I even watched this youtube video of someone else doing it on the same machine and he didn't have any issue.

<-- Starts at 4:00

Am I missing something, is there an adhesive I'm not aware of. If anyone can help it would be most appreciated.

Thanks, and my apologies if I shouldn't be posting this here. I know I'm super close to completing this and just hope you all wonderful people with deep knowledge of this exact machine can help answer the question of how I can remove this DMD to install the No Glare Film.

20210718_175540 (resized).jpg

It's not a question of HOW to get one. It's a question of HOW MUCH to pay for one. The prices right now on this game are insane. It'll eventually come down from lunacy as all things do. I can patiently wait until then.

It's nuts.... considering I paid $4400 for mine back in 2011... at the time I thought that was a big-ticket!

I still have the bill of sale from mine. Everybody ready to feel terrible? I paid $2560 for mine waaaay back in 2001.

Edit: Oh, and that *included* shipping from New Jersey to Calgary.

this is like being a first time home owner and seeing the prices just go up and up while on the sidelines convincing yourself the pricess will go back down because 'the bubble' will burst... you are just pricing yourself out of ever owning something.

That also seems to apply to this hobby too and collectibles in general. Especially when the numbers on games decline due to being sold overseas, restored, imported, exported, etc.

In other words, I think prices will never come down.

Correct, they are not going down even in a recession. I still see Indys come up in the $7K range. If your waiting on the sidelines that is your bottom

I'd put that in the "reasonable" category. It will never go back to being a $5K game, but I'd take the plunge at that price. There's a reason the ads posted at $12,000+ are still posted.

I can do even better. Bought my first IJ in 2004 from an operator, wait for it......for $1400. Traded it off along with a T2 (didn't want to trade my IJ off, but got a Monster Bash for both). At that time I had less than 2k into both and a MB was selling for $4500. Always thought I could pick up another IJ as they were selling around $2500 at that time.
Waited way too long as the one I have now cost me $7800. Glad to have it back and it won't be leaving anytime soon.

I have got my first IJ back in 2001 for $200. The idol was not working (unplugged connector) and it had reset issues caused by bad BR2. I got my second one for free - here is the story: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deal-of-the-week/page/2
I still have both of them.
There are still good deals out there from time to time. Last year I was offered the machines on photos below for a reasonable price - $2000 per piece in a package deal. The guy who was selling them got them for free. He had to clear the warehouse of the pins plus 50 touch screen games.

IMG-005169b159c63b4ad373bccff217f8b2-V.jpgIMG-033e4572358827a51e52dd3cb38a16d3-V.jpgIMG-1966d3cb454c8522137e48c733af35c5-V.jpgIMG-81b529cdc8c4c3a418e9893fbed28514-V.jpgIMG-84333d1de7078e16d08453a86ad16544-V.jpgIMG-979f4855a0033b6ea3f7bd6ecd6aebdd-V.jpgIMG-a0c171ca56a83f7e2e338b8faf3760b1-V.jpgIMG-aa3fd90d68afba5960cc0a80b461f67f-V.jpgIMG-cd9ef257179a98f0428ded35bfe79738-V.jpgIMG-e8f649cb60e390d9551361ab5778a361-V.jpgIMG-eb1106dbd1390114029c4794b28bf193-V.jpgIMG-eb6e365d07eef651112493447e7318fc-V.jpgIMG-fa382cef0b56688f654193fa8828772a-V.jpg

Damn you got some beauty’s there!

There are still good deals out there from time to time. Last year I was offered the machines on photos below for a reasonable price - $2000 per piece in a package deal. The guy who was selling them got them for free. He had to clear the warehouse of the pins plus 50 touch screen games.

Wow, what a deal. Buy them all and sell one of the "A" titles and you paid for the complete lot. That purchase would be like a dream come true.

some elbow grease and you made some $ there.

FYI ...getting through the backlog of Antidote customers. I'm pushing off folks that don't respond within 48 hours. Demand is high ... lots of people waiting ... bumping you doesn't mean you will not get one... just that it will be later on down the line.

I've no other way to get in contact with people other than private messaging on these forums, so if you are not actively checking your inbox... you may miss your slot.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11nD2RZnNf3VHWYTyTVtXyvln9uA4hbOW5QK7jVhbGS8/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks for understanding
Jim

Got my Antidote in the mail today. Think Jim sent my email on Monday and its here already. Not sure when I will get it installed but it is an impressive piece of steel!

Thanks Jim!

I am second down the not notified yet. Let me know when you want payment. I am ready.

hey. I'm number 59. do I still wait or send payment ?

I will reach out to you when I am ready

Its built like a tank. It may never wear out....

this is a very cool group of pinballers! I love reading everybody's posts here, lots of positivity.

On that note, I received my IJ yesterday. Lots to work on and improve on, will need to tune the path of adventure, something is not right and I am also needing to rebuild the flippers and can't play much until that happens first.

On that note, any objections of using Plywood for the base of the cabinet rather than MDF? I presume Williams went the pdf route back in the day to save $ on wood.
I have access to a CNC machine and it is looking like I will be able to pre cut these cabinets and assembling at home and I was thinking of doing all Plywood.
Do MDF bottom or upgrade and go full PLY? what do you guys say? is it sacrilegious to go full ply?

If I was making a cabinet from scratch, I would likely use plywood.