(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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There are 11,721 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 235.
#8301 2 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I spent another hour on it tonight. No matter how much I adjust the kicker and coil bracket, or bend the end of the kicker, it still kicks out into the antidote's right side, then bounces across and hits the left side and often goes SDTM. I don't see a way to make it kick out without hitting it. I tried bending the end of the kicker arm to both sides and it doesn't make a difference.

I have same issue. Haven’t had time to try remedies- thanks for posting efforts.
Are you using a protector on the mode hole with the antidote? If so, have you tried without? What kind of wood damage do you have under the protector?

#8302 2 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

I have same issue. Haven’t had time to try remedies- thanks for posting efforts.
Are you using a protector on the mode hole with the antidote? If so, have you tried without? What kind of wood damage do you have under the protector?

The protector doesn’t contribute to this. Please don’t go removing the protector. The only adjustment would be the eject mechanism… if that doesn’t do it, please contact me.

#8303 2 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I spent another hour on it tonight. No matter how much I adjust the kicker and coil bracket, or bend the end of the kicker, it still kicks out into the antidote's right side, then bounces across and hits the left side and often goes SDTM. I don't see a way to make it kick out without hitting it. I tried bending the end of the kicker arm to both sides and it doesn't make a difference.

As we all know these games are complex and people do all kinds of things to adjust their machines. That being said mine isn't close to SDTM, and works flawlessly. I hope u get it figured out soon.

#8304 2 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

I have same issue. Haven’t had time to try remedies- thanks for posting efforts.
Are you using a protector on the mode hole with the antidote? If so, have you tried without? What kind of wood damage do you have under the protector?

For the record mine didnt have damage, but I do have a Cliffy protector installed.

#8305 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

As we all know these games are complex and people do all kinds of things to adjust their machines. That being said mine isn't close to SDTM, and works flawlessly. I hope u get it figured out soon.

Id like to see a short vid to help diagnose the problem.

This shouldnt be happening as the posts are still in the came location and the saucer should be in the same location etc.

No changes are made to the existing ball path.

So, unless it was doing it before the fix, Im at a loss without more info.

Again, does the ball go SDTM without the fix installed and going back to the original?

#8306 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Id like to see a short vid to help diagnose the problem.
This shouldnt be happening as the posts are still in the came location and the saucer should be in the same location etc.
No changes are made to the existing ball path.
So, unless it was doing it before the fix, Im at a loss without more info.
Again, does the ball go SDTM without the fix installed and going back to the original?

I’m getting the unit back … I will be looking carefully at the way the guides are formed and will be installing it in my machine to determine if there is a consistency issue.

It will be solved

#8307 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Id like to see a short vid to help diagnose the problem.
This shouldnt be happening as the posts are still in the came location and the saucer should be in the same location etc.
No changes are made to the existing ball path.
So, unless it was doing it before the fix, Im at a loss without more info.
Again, does the ball go SDTM without the fix installed and going back to the original?

I totally agree that something sounds off....that being said its not my problem

#8308 2 years ago

Has anyone had recent experience installing IJ cabinet decals? Whose decals did you use and what was your experience. I've done decals on Fish Tales and Black Rose. Are Rad Cals worth the extra work (cutting holes and getting corners just right)?

#8309 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

Has anyone had recent experience installing IJ cabinet decals? Whose decals did you use and what was your experience. I've done decals on Fish Tales and Black Rose. Are Rad Cals worth the extra work (cutting holes and getting corners just right)?

Me personally I prefer the original look of decals. I used original screen printed decals... If you've done Fish Tales then the experience should be very similar on Indy. There are a ton of do's and don'ts around here when regarding surface prep and installation.

indyc-cab (resized).jpgindyc-cab (resized).jpg

#8310 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Me personally I prefer the original look of decals. I used original screen printed decals... If you've done Fish Tales then the experience should be very similar on Indy. There are a ton of do's and don'ts around here when regarding surface prep and installation.
[quoted image]

I agree, and I think the black powder coating looks the best...I have that on mine

#8311 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I agree, and I think the black powder coating looks the best...I have that on mine

Honestly I go back and forth on the black. I really dig the way it accents the corners... but sometimes I like the original factory look... with high gloss brass legs.

#8312 2 years ago

I’m about to do decals on my Indy. For sure not doing rad calls. Personally I love the factory look, and I actually embrace the process. Going to sand, fill, paint, then re-decal… basically a cab restore rascals do look cool… but something about the nostalgia gets lost

#8313 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I’m about to do decals on my Indy. For sure not doing rad calls. Personally I love the factory look, and I actually embrace the process. Going to sand, fill, paint, then re-decal… basically a cab restore rascals do look cool… but something about the nostalgia gets lost

Nice...are you going with stainless, powder coat, or brass?

#8314 2 years ago

Mine already has brass on it… ill have to remove the side rails very carefully My game arguably does not really need it… only one side is slightly faded, and the cab is nice… but Im overly meticulous.. its actually a pretty rare example, home use only still has goodie bag attached.

#8315 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Mine already has brass on it… ill have to remove the side rails very carefully My game arguably does not really need it… only one side is slightly faded, and the cab is nice… but Im overly meticulous.. its actually a pretty rare example, home use only still has goodie bag attached.

In that case I would leave it alone.
And I’m fully restoring one right now with Radcals.

#8316 2 years ago
Quoted from pingod:

In that case I would leave it alone.
And I’m fully restoring one right now with Radcals.

I did radcals on my wh20 restore, never going back! haha. I agree with Brady though, perhaps some nostalgia lost but damn, they look so good.

I am torn on the armor though. My TOTAN is all brassed out, i kind want to do something different but the black just doesnt resonate with me.

#8317 2 years ago

My armor actually is the same color as Ricochet which is a black with a gold flake by Robertstone0407 and I have zero regrets. I felt the original brass didn’t tie in the look of the artwork as well as the black but I understand both sides on this debate.

68F62D6A-0439-4F97-BDF1-A3449A788A13 (resized).jpeg68F62D6A-0439-4F97-BDF1-A3449A788A13 (resized).jpeg
#8318 2 years ago

I've done 3 IJ's. All 3 with black armor. To me the brass look is to much on this title... just my .02's worth.

The yellow's & orange's (playfield & artwork) are very dominant thruout and the black edges / details in the artwork are sweet. With that said: I think the brass look is overpowering. The stainless steel (factory look: glass lock bar, gun & glass rails) is/was a cost cutter, back in 93'. This game would have been a Black Armor LE, all day long, IMO.

I'm going to do my current IJ with deep / rich decals. I've done RadCals on IJ. They do offer a slightly easier application, the gloss is really nice (if you like it, which I do), but the corners don't match up 100% to my liking. A little too think, so the joints are more noticeable.

My Votes are: I give RadCals a 10 for ease of installation and look (glossy). I give the original vibrant colored decals a 10 for tighter corners, the ability to decal under glass bar and more true to the factory decaled look.

IJ is an amazing game and I'm so glad there are guys making these amazing mods / improvements.

Kerry

#8319 2 years ago

Is there anyone out there still producing true to original silkscreen decals for IJ?

#8320 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I've done 3 IJ's. All 3 with black armor. To me the brass look is to much on this title... just my .02's worth.
The yellow's & orange's (playfield & artwork) are very dominant thruout and the black edges / details in the artwork are sweet. With that said: I think the brass look is overpowering. The stainless steel (factory look: glass lock bar, gun & glass rails) is/was a cost cutter, back in 93'. This game would have been a Black Armor LE, all day long, IMO.
I'm going to do my current IJ with deep / rich decals. I've done RadCals on IJ. They do offer a slightly easier application, the gloss is really nice (if you like it, which I do), but the corners don't match up 100% to my liking. A little too think, so the joints are more noticeable.
My Votes are: I give RadCals a 10 for ease of installation and look (glossy). I give the original vibrant colored decals a 10 for tighter corners, the ability to decal under glass bar and more true to the factory decaled look.
IJ is an amazing game and I'm so glad there are guys making these amazing mods / improvements.
Kerry

Once you go black...

#8321 2 years ago

Is there anyone out there still producing true to original silkscreen decals for IJ?

I got mine from Mirco. Don't know if they are original silkscreen. They sure look and feel like them.

#8322 2 years ago

Installed the mode start fix last week. 100% acceptance rate thus far. Ball comes out fairly as well

#8323 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Is there anyone out there still producing true to original silkscreen decals for IJ?
I got mine from Mirco. Don't know if they are original silkscreen. They sure look and feel like them.

Thank you. How bad were the dust particles he talks about?

#8324 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

My armor actually is the same color as Ricochet which is a black with a gold flake by Robertstone0407 and I have zero regrets. I felt the original brass didn’t tie in the look of the artwork as well as the black but I understand both sides on this debate. [quoted image]

It Looks really nice.

#8325 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I've done 3 IJ's. All 3 with black armor. To me the brass look is to much on this title... just my .02's worth.
The yellow's & orange's (playfield & artwork) are very dominant thruout and the black edges / details in the artwork are sweet. With that said: I think the brass look is overpowering. The stainless steel (factory look: glass lock bar, gun & glass rails) is/was a cost cutter, back in 93'. This game would have been a Black Armor LE, all day long, IMO.
I'm going to do my current IJ with deep / rich decals. I've done RadCals on IJ. They do offer a slightly easier application, the gloss is really nice (if you like it, which I do), but the corners don't match up 100% to my liking. A little too think, so the joints are more noticeable.
My Votes are: I give RadCals a 10 for ease of installation and look (glossy). I give the original vibrant colored decals a 10 for tighter corners, the ability to decal under glass bar and more true to the factory decaled look.
IJ is an amazing game and I'm so glad there are guys making these amazing mods / improvements.
Kerry

Kerry, any pics you could share regarding the radcals? (I'd be curious to see how things line up) I get what your saying about the corners tho with how the artwork is. I assume much easier to line things up just how you like it with decals.

Armor color is gonna be a tough decision for me, i agree, brass looks nice but not 100% sold on it yet. I like black as well but I'm just not feelin that either. I got time to decide at least, I am no rush to pull this thing apart, lol.

#8326 2 years ago

Getting this Indy soon. It was restored by Keller Restorations back in the day.Pristine condition.Can’t wait!!

F94E4209-E933-4C93-BAEC-D6E0DBF8C0DE (resized).jpegF94E4209-E933-4C93-BAEC-D6E0DBF8C0DE (resized).jpeg
#8327 2 years ago
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Thank you. How bad were the dust particles he talks about?

Not sure, I don't know anything about the dust particles.

#8328 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Kerry, any pics you could share regarding the radcals? (I'd be curious to see how things line up) I get what your saying about the corners tho with how the artwork is. I assume much easier to line things up just how you like it with decals.

Steve... the only picts I have are in an email I sent. They were deleted from my 35mm camera. If you PM, I can forward the email to you.

There is absolutely no lining up anything with RadCals. It's peel and stick. IJ artwork is notorious for being off for matching the front corners, same with RadCals. Unlike decals with artwork beyond the edges to trim off, you can get the corners match lined up closer.

Because the RadCals are thick, so the edge is more noticeable... I put masking tape on corners, right up to edges of front and side panels, then with paint brush, painted the void / edge with enamel black paint. That helped tremendously to hide the gap and the off white edges

Kerry

#8329 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Steve... the only picts I have are in an email I sent. They were deleted from my 35mm camera. If you PM, I can forward the email to you.
There is absolutely no lining up anything with RadCals. It's peel and stick. IJ artwork is notorious for being off for matching the front corners, same with RadCals. Unlike decals with artwork beyond the edges to trim off, you can get the corners match lined up closer.
Because the RadCals are thick, so the edge is more noticeable... I put masking tape on corners, right up to edges of front and side panels, then with paint brush, painted the void / edge with enamel black paint. That helped tremendously to hide the gap and the off white edges
Kerry

Thanks Kerry, will pm

#8330 2 years ago

Got my antidote installed yesterday. I’m having the sdtm behavior as well (1/4?). I read up on it and I’ll try the fixes soon. I had the foam lined with no deflector solution before and never got sdtm. So hopefully I’ll be able to get it back going.

My shots sound like change jangling in your pocket. Is that what other people are getting? I kinda assumed it would be the original metal clank.

Truly amazing design and not a single bounce out in a couple games!

#8331 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Got my antidote installed yesterday. I’m having the sdtm behavior as well (1/4?). I read up on it and I’ll try the fixes soon. I had the foam lined with no deflector solution before and never got sdtm. So hopefully I’ll be able to get it back going.
My shots sound like change jangling in your pocket. Is that what other people are getting? I kinda assumed it would be the original metal clank.
Truly amazing design and not a single bounce out in a couple games!

I’m working on addressing the STDM issue that some are having.

I will update everyone if I can get to a solution without compromising the functionality of its intended purpose.

No it’s not a thunk… it is a ca-ching. Loose change is a good description. You are hearing the inertial damper hit the deflector.

#8332 2 years ago

Tagging this thread for future reference.

#8333 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m working on addressing the STDM issue that some are having.
I will update everyone if I can get to a solution without compromising the functionality of its intended purpose.
No it’s not a thunk… it is a ca-ching. Loose change is a good description. You are hearing the inertial damper hit the deflector.

Cool. I’ll try the suggested fixes and report back.

#8334 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Cool. I’ll try the suggested fixes and report back.

The only suggested fix I would recommend is rotation of the ejector arm. I can't sanction adding padding or any kind of alteration of the deflector. At the end of the day, if this issue is indeed related to the Antidote it will be corrected by a fix to the Antidote. The solution has to be solid, repeatable and universal. I don't expect my customers to have to home grow a custom solution to make it right.

I would also ask... if anyone who has time to bother, remove the antidote and play the game without it. If your STDM events disappear completely without the Antidote... then that is solid confirmation that the Antidote is exacerbating the issue on your machine. The reason I ask this is that the STDM behavior may be more prevalent (and appear like it's a new problem) now that the ball is actually sticking more often than it used to... and it is not happening for everyone.

To anyone who thinks they have this issue please contact me directly. I would prefer this forum not become a group debug discussion out of courtesy to the club.

... and y'all need not worry... already got a design ready to test for this

… and I appreciate all the input and help !!!

Thanks a bunch!

#8335 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The only suggested fix I would recommend is rotation of the ejector arm. I can't sanction adding padding or any kind of alteration of the deflector. At the end of the day, if this issue is indeed related to the Antidote it will be corrected by a fix to the Antidote. The solution has to be solid, repeatable and universal. I don't expect my customers to have to home grow a custom solution to make it right.
I would also ask... if anyone who has time to bother, remove the antidote and play the game without it. If your STDM events disappear completely without the Antidote... then that is solid confirmation that the Antidote is exacerbating the issue on your machine. The reason I ask this is that the STDM behavior may be more prevalent (and appear like it's a new problem) now that the ball is actually sticking more often than it used to... and it is not happening for everyone.
To anyone who thinks they have this issue please contact me directly. I would prefer this forum not become a group debug discussion out of courtesy to the club.
... and y'all need not worry... already got a design ready to test for this
… and I appreciate all the input and help !!!
Thanks a bunch!

By the time you make up the anticipated 2500 pieces.

Im confident that any SDTM issues will be completely sorted out.

#8336 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

By the time you make up the anticipated 2500 pieces.
Im confident that any SDTM issues will be completely sorted out.

Yep... everyone should know that they will be... and anyone that has the issue... will have it fixed.

#8337 2 years ago

Good morning,

I'm located in Europe, happy owner of an Indy which is however in need of a complete playfield and decal restoration.

For the playfield, I essentially have four options:
- Prep the playfield, and apply a full playfield size overlay
- Prep the playfield, and arrange for a full size playfield print (yes I have access to someone who can do it - but it's brand new territory he only printed this particular playfield on overlays)
- Custom restoration by an expert (2y leadtime...)
- Mirco

Mirco option is dismissed by many on various forums because of multiple issues, art and color deviation for ex, but also clearcoat quality (as exhibited recently with the infamous GnR playfield issues). I've seen a Medieval Madness Mirco playfield which color rendition was miles away from an original.

So I'd like to ask those who went the Mirco route: happy with it ? is art repro consistent with original ? Did you add any additionnal clearcoat ? No issue with clearcoat pooling ? Given that they advertise they use the same clearcoat as JJP, this does not really inspire confidence...

Also looking for cabinet decals. There are multiple options from multiple vendors, including from Mirco, the so called Radcals. I would welcome however a pointer to "original decal" seller, hopefully located in Europe. Also, it seems the radcals require less cabinet preparation, at the expense of alignment and the need to cut holes ? Can you elaborate on that ?

Thanks and regards

#8338 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Good morning,
I'm located in Europe, happy owner of an Indy which is however in need of a complete playfield and decal restoration.
For the playfield, I essentially have four options:
- Prep the playfield, and apply a full playfield size overlay
- Prep the playfield, and arrange for a full size playfield print (yes I have access to someone who can do it - but it's brand new territory he only printed this particular playfield on overlays)
- Custom restoration by an expert (2y leadtime...)
- Mirco
Mirco option is dismissed by many on various forums because of multiple issues, art and color deviation for ex, but also clearcoat quality (as exhibited recently with the infamous GnR playfield issues). I've seen a Medieval Madness Mirco playfield which color rendition was miles away from an original.
So I'd like to ask those who went the Mirco route: happy with it ? is art repro consistent with original ? Did you add any additionnal clearcoat ? No issue with clearcoat pooling ? Given that they advertise they use the same clearcoat as JJP, this does not really inspire confidence...
Also looking for cabinet decals. There are multiple options from multiple vendors, including from Mirco, the so called Radcals. I would welcome however a pointer to "original decal" seller, hopefully located in Europe. Also, it seems the radcals require less cabinet preparation, at the expense of alignment and the need to cut holes ? Can you elaborate on that ?
Thanks and regards

I have installed Mirco Playfields my Whitewater and Totan and the finished results are amazing and the playfields still look amazing after a couple of years with plenty of plays on my Whitewater. I have not had any of the issues I have seen report, however I always allow the playfield to air for 5-6 months before installation to allow the clear to fully cure. I did have to return the first Totan playfield I received as it had issues, but was able to return it straight away and got a perfect replacement. My advice would be to go with Mirco, but check the playfield over fully when you receive it, then let it air for 5-6 months then you should have any not issues. I also have some CPR Playfields and think we are incredibly lucky to have these options available to us.

#8339 2 years ago
Quoted from Andypc:

I have installed Mirco Playfields my Whitewater and Totan and the finished results are amazing and the playfields still look amazing after a couple of years with plenty of plays on my Whitewater. I have not had any of the issues I have seen report, however I always allow the playfield to air for 5-6 months before installation to allow the clear to fully cure. I did have to return the first Totan playfield I received as it had issues, but was able to return it straight away and got a perfect replacement. My advice would be to go with Mirco, but check the playfield over fully when you receive it, then let it air for 5-6 months then you should have any not issues. I also have some CPR Playfields and think we are incredibly lucky to have these options available to us.

Thanks for the feedback. CPR does not carry Indiana Jones though, plus I suspect shipping will be horrendous Looks like Mirco is the only alternative for Indy

#8340 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Thanks for the feedback. CPR does not carry Indiana Jones though, plus I suspect shipping will be horrendous Looks like Mirco is the only alternative for Indy

I just finished swap with a Mirco playfield. I did have some minor issues with hole and dimple alignments. But, to be fair, I have had similar issues with CPR. My recommendation is to ensure alignment sensitive holes/dimples are meticulously reviewed and looked over. For example, I always have had issues with the side rails not perfectly aligning with the pre-drilled holes on the playfield. For my new Indy, not a big issue on the right side, but major issue on the left. I had to do a lot of tweaks to get POA to work. I'm about 95% good but I still may re-drill left side rail to better align. Also, I always seem to have alignment issues with saucer kick-outs, both when I did Indy and when I did High Speed (CPR). I had to drill new holes to better align saucer kick out. Even had to redrill holes for micro switches on POA which were off too.

#8341 2 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

I just finished swap with a Mirco playfield. I did have some minor issues with hole and dimple alignments. But, to be fair, I have had similar issues with CPR. My recommendation is to ensure alignment sensitive holes/dimples are meticulously reviewed and looked over. For example, I always have had issues with the side rails not perfectly aligning with the pre-drilled holes on the playfield. For my new Indy, not a big issue on the right side, but major issue on the left. I had to do a lot of tweaks to get POA to work. I'm about 95% good but I still may re-drill left side rail to better align. Also, I always seem to have alignment issues with saucer kick-outs, both when I did Indy and when I did High Speed (CPR). I had to drill new holes to better align saucer kick out. Even had to redrill holes for micro switches on POA which were off too.

Well.... That's not what I would expect of a 1.1k euros playfield. If I had to drill, I would probably ask for a refund... Is your Indy Mirco playfield recent? Did you raise these issues to Mirco, and if so what was their response?

Also, looks like Mirco also has this 'golden' playfield with golden flakes at some locations, would be interested to know if this warrants the added cost

Cheers

#8342 2 years ago

I’ve been hearing all the mircos are not dimpled correctly. I guess when I get mine finally underway, I’ll document the incorrect dimples. It is a shame anything is off but I guess when you’re the only person doing IJ playfields, that’s what you’re gonna get. I’m under the impression Disney didn’t approve the licensing for this PF either so there’s that

#8343 2 years ago

I am Looking to cabinet decals on my indiana can anyone recommend a good decal set and source please
Thanks

#8344 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I’ve been hearing all the mircos are not dimpled correctly. I guess when I get mine finally underway, I’ll document the incorrect dimples. It is a shame anything is off but I guess when you’re the only person doing IJ playfields, that’s what you’re gonna get. I’m under the impression Disney didn’t approve the licensing for this PF either so there’s that

This was "Lost in translation"... As to be honest, being french, "dimpling" is not a term I'm familiar with (well, I know "Dimples", but if my memory is correct this would be more relevant to my teenager daughter than a pinball playfield )...

#8345 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

This was "Lost in translation"... As to be honest, being french, "dimpling" is not a term I'm familiar with (well, I know "Dimples", but if my memory is correct this would be more relevant to my teenager daughter than a pinball playfield )...

Yeah it’s a pinball term. The predrilled or primed holes where you fasten the Playfield parts

#8346 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Yeah it’s a pinball term. The predrilled or primed holes where you fasten the Playfield parts

To be fair, this is not only with Mirco playfields. It is a common issue, I have experienced it with NOS playfields and other manufacturers as well. I believe Vid has talked about it in one of his playfield swap threads.

#8347 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Well.... That's not what I would expect of a 1.1k euros playfield. If I had to drill, I would probably ask for a refund... Is your Indy Mirco playfield recent? Did you raise these issues to Mirco, and if so what was their response?
Also, looks like Mirco also has this 'golden' playfield with golden flakes at some locations, would be interested to know if this warrants the added cost
Cheers

I have a Mirco White Water playfield. No issue at all.

#8348 2 years ago

I created a topc on my IJ issues.Anybody had this isse before ?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-sound-problempinsound-or-pinwoofer-

#8349 2 years ago

Hey @BentlyBear !

Give me a call at the shop and we'll get you fixed up.

Thanks,

Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MST, Mon - Fri

#8350 2 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

Hey @BentlyBear !

Give me a call at the shop and we'll get you fixed up.

Thanks,

Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MST, Mon - Fri

Great customer service right there!

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Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 85.00
$ 49.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
11,250 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Trumansburg, NY
$ 59.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
 
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
16,500
Machine - For Sale
Barrie, ON
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
2step’s shop
 
From: $ 10.00
From: $ 20.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 18.00
Playfield - Protection
Volcano Pinball
 
14,000 (OBO)
$ 1,159.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 1,419.00
$ 41.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
$ 12.95
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