Can someone give me some pointers on how to survive the shooting video mode. I can never get to the end. I move as quickly as I can with the flipper buttons to shoot the guys behind the bar. I just go left and right as they appear. They always get shots off while I am shooting one of the other guys.
Any help would be appreciated.
My machine has the little bar to aid in the Narrow Escape.

Go to the right when it starts and remember the Nazis don’t show up out of view. They will start to group on that end and it’s easier to get them.

Awesome. Thanks very much. Going to go and try that now.

Yeah, keep moving all the way right and left. Go back and forth a little to avoid getting hit. Be quick! lol, its a gunfight!

You can only get hit 25 times.

If you get good at it, its an extra ball and medallion.

Well, I got mine a few years ago so I suppose it went up. I also bought them in batches to save on shipping. You gotta plan ahead.

That’s a long shootout! Mine only gives me 5.

Thanks very much.

I will begin shipping Lao's Antidote this week... I will reach out to each of you in turn on my list.
Thank you!

Does anybody know where to get the clear plexiglass that goes about the "captured ball target" to prevent air balls? The one I had just cracked. I can't remember which Pinside member I ordered it from. I need a replacement. Thanks Litz

I think you are referring to Davi and his air ball protector: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/151#post-6026076

Thanks - but I think he has a clear lifted version from djshakes.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/airball-stopper-mod-indiana-jones-93#post-5710654

Good morning everyone... I would need some advice on how to debug a GI problem. On my recently picked up a Indiana Jones (Williams) it turns out that GI is super super dim. It's currently equipped with incandescent, it's so dim can actually see the incandescent wire very easily.

So before I dive in, look up the manual on the GI circuitry, any advice you would have?

Thanks

You can try with the "allow dim illumination" setting turned off and see if that helps. Other than that I would start at the transformer and make sure the GI connector isn't all toasty looking and overheated. Then a trip to the backbox to check the 2 GI plugs on the lower left of the power driver PCB.

I'm going to place Lao's Antidote installation pictures here for everyone. I've been asked about how difficult this is to install. Some folks are apprehensive about the POA removal. It is not as bad as you may think. A hard copy of installation instructions will be included with your order.

Comments are provided on each photo

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z6oGQjQu6ETbjJVSA

For me it’s more of a sweeping back and forth, if you chase each one as they come up, you lose. I guess a bit of luck too.

I've not considered simply sweeping back and forth, although that is the technique I use on AFM. For me I go after them as they appear and 8-9 times out of 10 will typically get the EB and the medallion. I feel that if I'm more advanced through the modes when doing the shooter video mode it can be harder but maybe that's just me getting excited/nervous about possibly reaching eternal life and really wanting the EB ....

First time to wizard mode and missed the billion by 4 POA lights. Had one ball cradled and hit the POA ramp and the ball got to that point on the ramp where it could go to the POA or come back SDTM.

STDM it was

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Right there with you brother.

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Holy crap! Now THAT is embracing a THEME!

Wow that's awesome - love it!!

Sold out.

Thanks for the instructions. Should I have to add a microswitch protector (standard metal one, or a clear cover above mode start), or this deflector solves that issue?

Thanks to Ricochet for a quick parts order turn around. Looking forward to getting the delivery

Unfortunately there is no way for the deflector to solve the problem... I looked into it... It would require extending the hood on the mode hole and that would not allow the ball to eject properly.

I mean this, not during eject:

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Oh yeah the likelihood of that happening now is next to nothing. My original thought to protect the diode was to extend the lid of the U portion... that would block the ball from going up... but when you do that you screw up the eject.

But yeah... I've never EVER seen a ball do that with the Antidote.

This is great news!

This vid is on Facebook... NOS in-crate fully populated playfield! Terrible ending to the video... wish he had stuck around for a few close-ups. There are some snaps on his page.

https://fb.watch/5HSuMz7ffN/

Not fun

The IJ I found had a very low GI level. Digging into it... Turns out J121 connector is crap, two missing wires (1 and 2). Anyone would know where they should go ? Trying to make sense of the manual... According to the pinout, this should be Brown and Orange, return to playfield GI

But I can't find in the manual where these wires should go to, and I can't find the wires in the cabinet... Any pointer ?

Picture attached
J121 GI Indy (resized).jpg

Correction, this looks like J120, for which 1 and 2 are not connected, right ?

[EDIT2] Can't make sense of the wiring compared to the manual... This does not make sense.

Stick with it, you'll get there!

J120 and J121 are essentially the same connector... two headers are provided to be able to have the harnesses for the back box and playfield to be independent.

J120 is usually where the backbox GI is connected
J121 is usually where the playfield GI is connected

Page 33-3 shows you the wiring connection to the power driver board.
Playfield GI pairs are (White-Brown:7, Brown;1), (White-Orange:8, Orange:2), (White-Violet:11, Violet:6)
BackBox GI pairs are (White-Green:10, Green:5), (White-Yellow:9, Yellow:3)

The primary pair for each upper and lower playfield GI are connected to a GI bulb socket under the playfield... (see picture for approx locations).

That said... Your connectors and pins are toast. They will need to be replaced... and you already know that .

... and your fuse looks funky
indy-playfield-gi-connections (resized).png

I figured it out... Since pins 1 and 2 on the playfield GI harness were toasted, whoever got this unit basically wired these two wires to the backbox wiring harness... So they are actually connected on the backbox wiring harness.

I replaced all incandescent with LEDs, and 'voila', let there be light.

Now I do need to rebuild the connectors, no question there. And since I'll add an Afterglow GI, at least I won't have to worry about the male connectors on the power board itself

[EDIT] I'm wondering however on the color of the third wire, according to the manual this should be yellow, but in my case this more looks like brown. Either it's a yellow which has darkened beyond recognition, or there's another odd wire somewhere

First chunk of Antidotes have been shipped.

I will update my spreadsheet as I get through the inventory. This makes it easy for all of us as it allows folks to see where they are in real time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11nD2RZnNf3VHWYTyTVtXyvln9uA4hbOW5QK7jVhbGS8/edit?usp=sharing

I hope to get some more feedback from this first set of customers. I would like to know that you think of the performance, packaging and documentation.

I will be out of commission for a week... then back on processing orders. I anticipate larger chunks of orders to be fulfilled going forward. Demand is pretty high and the first few out of the process were a bit clunky to get from raw material to out the door. I’ve made some changes to help me streamline the build and shipping.

Thanks for all the support !

Jim,

Received it today thx. Packaging is great and instructions appear to be straightforward. I can't get to the install until sometime next, but I'll keep you posted with feedback once completed.

The thought and fabrication quality that went into this is very impressive! I have no doubt this will remedy the bounce out issue. IJ was a top 15 game prior to this fix (and is a family favorite in my house).......it's stock is about to rise higher!!!

Just installed the antidote this is an Absolute must have. Ball stays in the hole every shot so far finally a solution to that mode start

Nice!

While it’s impossible to guarantee 100% stick rate ... it has to feel like an improvement and worth your $$

I installed "The Antidote" today.

It took all of 12 mins to install.

Anyone who has lifted the POA out of the way for cleaning should be able to install this in 10 mins or less.

Its simple, elegant, super durable, easy to install and actually works.

I tried to get it to fail over a trial of 50 shots ftom a cradled position.

And another 30 shots by hand as fast as i could deliver the ball.

I just couldnt get it to fail in test.

Each and every time my game now delivers a satisfying and resounding CLICK and THUNK when the mode shot is made.

I had literally stopped playing my game due to the terrible mode rejects.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the gem of a fix. It was only 26 years in the making lol.

I imagine that a ball will reject once in awhile but i havent had it happen on a clean shot to the mode start yet.

If you haven't ordered one yet please do so. Its an important fix.

If you dont have the ability to install it, get one anyway. Its a must have.

Im going to estimate that 98 out of 100 shots will solidly thunk in.

This aint no 3d printed piece of crap.

Its 1/8" HEAVY steel !

Its definitely going to last years.

I think its durable enough for even high volume route games.

The build quality is impressive and meets or exceeds anything Williams would have made.

Its so good that I worry that it gets copied by the big guys, so i hope theres a patent pending for this concept.

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Has anyone had the coin door when u open it the interface switch not working ,I tryed switch it self but it's good and everything else on the coins door works fine and ideas

To start:

Check the continuity between the switch wires and the connector on the coin door interface board.

Check for loose wires on the IDC connectors on the coin door interface board.

Check for loose or cracked solder jounts on the coin door intetface board.

Check for broken or failed diodes on the coin door interface board.

Hi bud yes I did all two times over now everything is fine ,I just don't understand why everything else is working fine other then the dig dig dig when u open the coin door but the switch works in the test

you get no indication that the door open.

This is normal

IJ uses a slightly different coin interface board and wiring.

But it works the same.

However you do get weird errors if you start the game with the door open. Especially the false single drop target error.

This is normal.

You should however get a single bong tone after a successful boot up of the game.

So, no ding-ding-ding on IJ.

I'm back in as of last weekend, thought I posted the picture already.
This one went straight to my guy to restore it.
Mine is in the middle, looks pretty good already.
Only three IJ getting work done at once.

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Ok I did not know that so it works fine then "

Thanks for the help bud

Yep.

Im playing my IJ again due to the antidote. It has missed a few times, but when it does, it was NOT a clean shot. I love the THUNK it makes when you hit it... Great job again.

Yes! A slightly off shot will rattle out, as it should.

This device has really made my game a lot more fun.

Now i can focus on the modes instead of ignoring them.

Mode completions equal huge bonuses!

It is very clanky ... it is a nice byproduct of the design. Turns out that clank is a real feature that people like !!!

... and it also protects your plastic!

I love the clank sound and then the THUNK !

Its awesome.

After you put the glass on it quiets down and you cant really hear the clanks as much.

But the THUNK is very satisfying.

Any pinball manufacturer who needs a compact, simple and effective inertia damper will love this device.

Id investigate a patent for it.

You never know...

https://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/getting-patent-yourself-29493.html