wallybgood thanks for the confirmation and pointer to a manual I didn't know about. Unfortunately, 01-11385 is not available. I'll likely have to make something out of stainless

The only other option would be placing a wanted advert in the Pinside Marketplace in the hope of finding someone that has parted out an IJ machine or has a partially populated PF - no never no your luck

I have an issue with my POA ball stop post. Intermittently the stop post will drop as soon as the POA becomes available. I have to turn off/turn on the machine to correct it.

The post isn’t binding and operates fine in tests.

Maybe the switch isn’t working/stuck on. Maybe run a test and see if it functions correctly

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Ok Coin Door light pros, I need my checks validated. I have a new coin door (for a while now) and I’m sure the coin door lights were working. Either way, the bulbs check out, I’ve attached a picture of the cable connected to the coin door interface board (J3) which appears to run through the board to J2 then back (via Violet & White Violet) to the Power Driver Board J119-1 & 3. I’ve tested connecting a multimeter to the coin door lights and get nothing. J3-1 & 2 don’t seem to show power either. Should I be connecting the multimeter to those 2 connectors or 1 of the J3’s and a ground. Also, not sure if there is a specific fuse to these 2 lamps, but everything else on the PF looks on. So not sure what’s up

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Check continuity of all connections to ground.

Swap the coin door interface board with a good, working one and see if it fixes it.

Some have reported bad diodes on the interface boards causing mischief.

You know where to get a Williams A-14689-1 board at? I don’t see anybody selling these

Contact DumbAss
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs#post-4975338

It might be just a loose or worn connection at the driver board.

I would start there and trace it back to the coin interface board.

Does the door have 6v or 12v lamps in it? There are 2 styles out there. Maybe thats why it doesnt light?

AFMr is 12v. People find this out by melting 6v LEDs when they do mods lol.

IJ wiring is 6.3v

You should have 6v at the lamps if all is in order.

You can always unplug the door connector and test the lamps with a 6v battery. Just clip it to both sides of the socket.

I had a start button light not working on Funhouse. I injected power all the way from the driver board and it
proved to be working.

Ended up being a loose connection on an IDC (j-135 on Funhouse) cable in the backbox.

The schematic helped a lot in this case, it took a couple hours but I got it fixed.

Ha! Thanks! What a great handle.

It’s 6.3v. and the bulbs check out. I’m certain they were working when I installed the door, I’m so senile now though I don’t remember much. I’m gonna try getting an extra board to test, I don’t mind having extra parts. I’m thinking that’s where the issue is. I’ve tried reseating the connectors and no luck. Is there an expected voltage (and how to test) that should be coming from J119-1 J-119-3 & J116-2 & J116-3 (which I believe feed the coin door GI power). Not sure if I can test 2 of these wires with a multimeter or if I need a ground to test. If those are firing the correct power then it’s most likely the Coin Interface Board

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All voltage tests are pretty much are power to ground.

In theory ground is everywhere, legs, siderails, ground braid....everywhere...

If you think its the coin interface board, the likely candidate is simply a bad diode in that specific circuit or a cracked/loose pin or loose IDC connection on the board.

Its easily checked with a meter.

Thanks! You’re probably right. I’ll give the voltage tests a run and if it’s not an easily identifiable bad diode then I’ll run the board up to my guy. Don’t mind keeping him busy

it functions correctly in tests. I think it’s moving with the diverter but it isn’t consistent

.... still working on the antidote. Even though it may seem like I’ve abandoned this project ... I assure you ... I HAVE NOT

This is GREAT news.

We have top men working on it right now.
Who?
Top... men.

I feel abandoned...

Thought I'd put a quick game on IJ after dinner. 2 balls were quickly wasted with 1-2 modes done, 3rd ball was great - completed all the modes (drained on the last mode), loop champion and collected 3 extra balls, first extra ball took me a while to shoot the start mode but finally started external life. Now I'm not good at multi-ball and typically flail around hoping to hit as much as I can and consequently never manage to complete the wizard mode, but I have seen how letting most of the balls to drain while ball saver is on allows the player to focus on the tougher shots early on and get them out of the way ... so hey let's see how that goes. Well ... it was going ok until I let 5 balls drain simultaneously and it caused a slam tilt!! Of all the bloody times, I'm having my best ever game, going to smash my GC, and what the ??? ... I got nothing. Not sure what happened or how (I wasn't nudging or shaking the machine, don't have a shaker, and have not seen this before) - I put a new game on and shook the machine but couldn't get it to slam tilt, so will have to do some more investigation. Just can't believe that happened on my best ever game ... oh well, guess that's pinball!!

Interesting... sucky... but interesting. Slam Tilt is on the same row as Trough 6 sensor... dunno some weird oddity in the Matrix

Do you have the latest game ROM?

Think it is but I'll double check - thanks

If one of the switches in the game has been damaged so it is always closed it can cause a problem in the switch matrix such that closing a switch in the column of the damaged switch can close the slam tilt. I had this happen on my Black Rose. This is explained in "This Old Pinball Disk 4"

I recently purchased an IJ that is missing some parts:
both planes with brackets
the diverter
the Rope Bridge plastic
Do any of you have any of these that you can sell?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/

For the planes, there are some awesome aftermarket options here (but you'll have to wait a bit): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service

Or if you are after the original planes, then I'm sure there'll be some available (hopefully at good price) from those who have upgraded to KF's planes

I always keep my original playfield parts so when I go to sell a machine I can recoup some of the money I invested into the machine in the event the buyer doesn’t want them. Some buyers don’t care about upgrades, which is fine. Things like color DMD, upgraded speakers, interactive planes are easy swaps.

Yep that makes sense if you may sell your machine in the future .... but hang on, why would you ever want to sell an IJ???

Right? I have an extra new playfield, backglass, decals, etc for that day when I have all that free time to rebuild it. Sadly I will probably die before that happens, but it’s the thought that counts

I know that feeling - I start planning a restoration the minute I've bought a machine ... 5 years on and 14 pins acquired and I'm still yet to complete one

Refurbishing my IJ. It was a bit discoulored in the years after 1993... It was striking to see the difference in colour under the hinges. New, licenced, decals almost on after extensive sanding,sticky glue removal and a bit of painting!

More to come next days.
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Nothing like a restored cabinet! Have fun!!!

Where did you get the decals from and what do you think of their quality?

Where did you get the decals? Are they silkscreened?

What type of paint did you use under the radcals? Flat black latex? Spray paint?

I would not recommend painting the cabinet just around the perimeter like that. The decals are translucent and you will see that bleed through from behind.

Finally got to the wiz mode. Wanted a billion but came up short.
During final mode trying to make all the lit shots, all I had left was left side of POA. Hit it up there and the post wouldn't release my ball. First time that has happened. Figures.

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EDIT: Solved it. I guess when it comes to re-seating all connectors on the 8-Driver board, FOURTH time's the charm. Don't even worry about it, please ignore the following message.

Welcome back, Pinside! Another day, another IJ issue. This one has me stumped.

On powering up the machine, the idol starts spinning. Forever. It just spins and spins without stopping.
Going into idol test reveals no problems. It "passes" the test, and as the idol spins it activates all the optos properly in the correct order as it cycles through all 6 possible idol positions. All switches associated with the idol test work properly (35, 91, 92, 93, 26).

I tried to search for possible solutions, and the best I could find was mention of a possible transistor issue. The best I could figure was that they were talking about the tiny transistor on the idol Motor EMI Board under the playfield. When testing it with a multimeter, it "failed" the test according to the guide I found, and I could see that it had previously been replaced so I assumed it was a problem spot. I replaced the transistor, thinking I'd found the problem. Put everything back in order, fired 'er up, and what do you know. Spin spin spin.

So I checked the transistor I just installed. It "failed" in the same way as the original. I tested the original I had just removed. Same readings. I tested a brand new transistor I just pulled from the sleeve - same readings. So, guess the info I found online was misleading, and there was never anything wrong with the transistor, so now I'm back at step one.

Anyone have any tips?

Bought the decals from Ministry of Pinball webshop:

https://www.ministryofpinball.nl/nl/indiana-jones-cabinet-decals.html

Colours look great, not too red... Licenced decals, with a little certificate attached.

Used water based silk black and spray from Motip:

https://www.bol.com/nl/p/motip-zijdeglans-acryllak-zwart-500-ml/9200000010395031/?s2a=

Exactly the right colour and easy to spray!

My decals are so thick, no way you can see through... Anyway no problems just painting the edges...

IMG_2537 (resized).JPGIMG_2537 (resized).JPGVery pleased with the end result. Including felt paddings protecting the cabinet from the legs. Sprayed the screwheads that were also a bit faded.

Had a small challenge with a non functioning left flipperswitch. Turned out to be a little too superficial to make the opto sense the trigger. A little spacer on the button did the trick!

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Do these have a laminate layer over them? I got some from Ministry, they are Matt in finish and the red is really ummmm red.

To be honest; I dont know. Decals are not very glossy, bit colour resembles the original colour that was still present under the hinges. So a pleased pinball owner here!

Fixed it? Had the same problem. Cleaned the coil and core of the plunger and works like a charm now...

I have a project pin that was a reimport from China. Many parts are off the play field, but I have them (all ramps, POA etc). Initially when the game booted the idol ran through a test. With the glass off the motor was very loud. Now the idol does not test and the motor does not run in test mode. Is there a fuse I should check? Any suggestions?

Hi guys. Happy to be part of the club since two months now.
For now I spent more time fixing issues on the pinball than actually playing.
But I like it too.
Yesterday I had a nice game, my best score so far

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Nice try Lao Che!!

I have taken the antidote and I’m happy to report that it has cured the disease that is the mode start hole.

Thanks to Ricochet for his countless hours of designing, prototyping, and testing. This is the most complex simple idea ever made for this machine...

This design is pretty incredible, and pure genius. I've only played a few rounds but am shooting with a 90-95%+ stick rate. Had a few hard shots off the right flipper stick easily. Had a "slower" shot kind of get sucked into it and it held in place. The slower shots feel like they are being suctioned in...I like it. The design also allows for a modified eject where the chances of a cheap SDTM drain seem like they have been drastically reduced. Ricochet can field all questions, I'm just a happy tester. It's hard to tell in the pics but the piece of metal that appears to be the deflector is actually not a deflector at all, as it is fluid (can move up and down), to the point where when the ball strikes it, it opens up, and then closes to almost hold the ball in.

This is a winner and should be on every IJ Williams out there.
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I actually think that my POA was failing in startup tests and the machine was dropping the post to bypass the POA because of that.

What specifically does the POA check during the test. I will dj the test and when I love the POA left and right the two optos activate as they should and the POA has full range of motion and the it will show “bad” at the top

Nice, ok TAKE MY MONEY NOW ! ! ! ! lol