You’ll be back. (BTW, I question that shipping angle/method. Generally I try and do PF level. One good dip and a lot of things can fall down into the head. Hopefully the balls are out)

Once a game leaves my front door, I have absolutely no inclination to tell people how to do things. It's their problem then.

Most of the games that get shipped around Australia or brought in from overseas are shipped on the end - there's no issues doing it. Also this is how NIB games are shipped, so the machines are designed to handle it.

I thought the same thing! Easter egg or coincidence?

It’s the mark of the manufacturer, Southern Screw, also known as Southern Fastening Systems. You’ll find them on other games of that time.

I had a game with several items dumped at that angle. New games are different as there’s nothing stored anywhere in side. If you pickup a game and are confident nothing is inside the cab and everything is tight, go for it. But most machines I’ve run across are used to store parts/etc.

Interesting. I never really paid attention to them until the other day.

Hey IJPA owners ... I've been having a ton of fun making these new products, so here's one for you:

There are plain old original stock coin reject buttons ... then there are aftermarket coin reject buttons with flat 2-D patterns -- I'm taking it to the next dimension with these new 3-D Coin Reject Buttons!

IJPA_1_RCP (resized).jpg

These eye-catching buttons literally pop out at you! They're 3D-printed with multiple filaments, including a translucent red which allows the coin insert light to glow through. For IJPA, they feature the famous golden Fertility Idol from Indy's initial quest in Raiders of the Lost Ark!

IJPA_2_RCP (resized).jpg

Available on my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com) or in my shop here on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04820-3d-coin-reject-buttons-indiana-jones-pinball-adventure). (My daughter gets a commission too; these 3D buttons were her idea!)

Note: please check your game before ordering -- this button replaces P/N 27-1037 button & 27-1038 cover. I've seen a few pics of some IJPA games with a different type of button, so compare to my pictures to be sure this is the correct one for yours (button is separate piece from slot).

Do you have a pic of them lit up?

The second pic there was them lit up. For comparison, here's another shot that will help, showing them off and on, plus with one of the old buttons still installed.

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They're not transparent, but rather translucent, with a beautiful red glow.

thanks. cool item!

Having an issue that I've ignored since I got this Indy
The connector for the extra ball button has been disconnected which goes to J6 ... when connected the fuse will blow on the main board.
The start button is working as it should , extra ball buy in doesn't. Both buttons the lights in the buttons are not lighting

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Whats going on with that diode on the switch?

Unknown ?

Anybody have a second to get a couple of pics of how this should be wired ?

It’s looks correct including the diode (assuming it’s in the right direction, I can’t tell from your pic)

There’s is a ground brick on mine for Grey/Yellow, not sure if it’s required

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It looks like the eyelet is either secured to the leg bracket or touching it, that is shorting it to ground. It should just be screwed into the cabinet wall as shown in the picture provided by thechakapakuni

In fact it is attached to the leg bracket, will change it so its like in the picture provided by thechakapakuni
Will let you know the outcome
Thanks to all for the info ... so far

Yeah if it’s touching the leg bracket it’s probably grounding and causing an issue

Thanks all , switched the resistor off the leg. Fuse not blowing and extra ball buy in button works as should in switch test.
Thank all for the help
Rob

Will send you the bill, i accept only beer

Done!

Good Job!

I put my diode into the wire harness and covered it with aquarium tubing and a zip tie a-la-HEP, and continued the wire to where it goes, at the lug.

This way I have a wire with a spade connector on the switch itself for a slightly cleaner installation.

Mine is done the same , but looks like factory tubing, when buying the game noticed it was disconnected but thought that someone didnt want the extra ball buy in to be used.
Again thanks to all for the quick fix. Played a game and tried out the buy in... worked like charm but didn't help my score .

Mode Scoop "Lao's Antidote" Update

I want to give you all an update regarding Lao's Antidote, presently I am in a re-design phase. I've pounded the heck out of so many different options and have yet to find one where I am :

#1 Confident that paying customers will be 100% satisfied
#2 Is practical to make

Rest assured I am working on this thing weekly (every day in my head and on paper). I feel bad for the drag on the schedule but I have to be certain its right. Early designs that were not 100% proven got me and everyone else excited... my mistake for not holding back until I was 100% satisfied.

I already have a few new folks in the hopper for testing and several whom I worked with early on. When the final design is tested by them... and they are satisfied, it will be made available.

I may be shooting for an unrealistic performance goal, but if I don't... it won't be what should be.

Thanks for your understanding
-Jim

P.S. If all goes well, I still plan on selling several of these for just the cost of shipping when testing is completed. I said that months ago... I still plan on doing that... I still have everyone on a list. You will be contacted at that time to see if you are still interested in the early adopter phase.

I love the goal of perfection, but its simply not possible Looking forward to possibly testing the new design !

sounds good, take your time, all good things take time.

^^^^^^^ what he said !

Jim, I would be happy with 90-95% success rate. It's about 6x more success compared to actual.
My IJ is switched off due to that for a long time (months).

That's pretty much the consensus all the way around on this. I am not really looking for perfection but I've a gripe with one specific shot. If I can't hit that shot the first time... its a no-go.

I picked up an IJ today from a very nice seller. I have been after one for a while and looking forward to getting into it!

You what’s interesting... I recently shopped out my IJ and put in a full set of cliffys in the process. I put the carbon fiber ring around the mode start hole and now I have about a 90% success rate. Whereas before I was at about 40-50%.

Just thought I’d share with the group. Still on the wait list for Ricochets fix as I’d love to get to 100% success rate.

Yup I’ve discovered this ... this is a real issue. When the ball hits the edge of the protector it hops and hits the top plastic and deflector wonky.

The reason my very first Z-flector worked for me and not others was because I have the carbon fiber protector. There is a slo-mo vid of it a mile back in this thread somewhere... the “hop” is clearly visible.

Thanks for continuing to work on this. Still "in" when you have it completed to your liking!

It interesting, my carbon cliffy broke to shreds and I removed it and replaced it with a steel one again. I think if I ever get my new PF installed I’m gonna extra thick clear coat the ring below the lip to prevent wear.

This is interesting to know. I have the old steel Cliffy in there now. It's banged up, but still does the job. I have the carbon version waiting for a future install, but now I'm rethinking if I should bother.

Over 200 plays with the carbon fiber Cliffy on the mode hole and it looks good as new.

Finished my IJ restoration after 2 months.

Happy with the esthetical result.

Replaced met fliptronic board with one from Pinled Germany. Send mine to somebody who tries to repare it.

When powering on the machine my Fuse108 popped and I have only GI in the backbox at the lowest part.

In test mode flipper opto, EOS, drop target bank and bridge popper do not react.

One month ago GI worked 100% in backbox.

Any advice or help to tackle these issues would be appreciated

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There is a pair of wires that connect the upper back-box GI lamps to the power-driver board. The color of the pair is White-Yellow and Yellow. They connect from the back-box to the power driver board either J120 or J121. You should unplug the connector containing that color pair of wires from your power driver board, replace the fuse and power the unit back up without the connector plugged in. This will tell you if you have a short on that pair or in the wiring of that GI chain on your back box lamp board. This should be very easy to isolate if its indeed a problem with the wiring.

If the fuse doesn't blow....

Pull out all the bulbs from your back box that are not lit (as shown in the pic). Use a meter and check the resistance across the White-Yellow and Yellow pair on the connector housing. You should have 0 ohms. If you don't ... something is shorted.

Yep, start with j120 and j121.

Look for shorted wire, or something not plugged in right.

Will do that tonight.
Could you give me more info how I test this with a DMM? Where do I place black and red lean on during this test?
Thanks.

This is a test you want to do with the power off.

You are looking for a short... so black and red orientation is irrelevant.

Your DMM should be set to Ohms. Unplug the connector from the power driver board, put one lead on the Yellow wire terminal and the other on the White-Yellow wire. With the bulbs (that were off on that GI strand, as shown in the picture) removed it should be zero ohms.

Before you do anything take some time to visually examine the connector and wiring of that section of the back box GI. You may be able to see the problem.

Working 100%
Thanks for the help.

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Anyone know where to get the center white bi-plane bent wire mount? My machine had the biplane mounted on a threaded stalk instead of the spring and that keeps breaking because of airballs. So far, everyone that has that items says out of stock.

Not sure what you mean by the spring however Marco has the wire mount https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7128

Last time I looked it was out of stock! Ordering now Thanks!

You need davi’s air all protectors

I have a lot of airballs on the 3 bank droptarget directly to left outlane.

How can you achieve a good succes ratio on the narrow escape?
Push the cabinet left or right?

What is the best version to play? I now have version L4, I think.

Davi makes airball protectors for both the 3 drop and single drop targets - send him a PM to see if he has any stock from his last production run