Link?

Thanks, this is all great info!

Scroll thru the posts he talks about other
ones he is/has made and what his plans are.

Here’s the link

Do you have a picture of the CFTBL lenticular? I saw a few floating around about 10-ish years ago, but never saw the Creech one.

Also, big thanks to Billc479 for taking pictures for me! I always like when other try to take pictures for me, so they can experience the pain I have to go through to try and grab pictures. These things are a bear to photograph because they shoot light everywhere due to the lenticular lens. That is also why a lot of them look dark in the pictures, because people try and get the direct light off of them, and then they realize the only way to not have glare is to back the light off..... You really can't win.... LOL

I tried a rendering software to sort of emulate the 3D card (a lot of layer effect are missing) layers. This one is sort of close to show the effect-

IJ.gif

Not pinball related, but relevant to the Indy fans among us...

Bethesda just announced a new Indiana Jones video game, developed by Machine Games (known for the recent Wolfenstein series). No real details, but here's a teaser:

I still need to install both ramps and POA. Still some errors but are regarding those parts I need to install.

This is my second WPC pinball and for me it is strange that I cannot test my flashers when the coindoor is open.
Flashers are off and work when coindoor is closed. Also that problem is solved.

GI in the back is still out even after swapping the broken fuse.
Placed a new connector J120

WMS introduced the high voltage cutoff switch for safety reasons and there was a service switch actuator that could be used to keep the power on (of course newer machines they introduce a switch that could simply be pulled out to leave the power on when the door was open). https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11791.

If you have a 3D printer, you can print one yourself https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845560 ... or just get used to closing the coin door

This is from the front of the IJ manual:
Service Switch Actuator (resized).JPG

Ok, my Indy is JUUUUUUUUSSSST about finished. Machine has been cleaned, shopped and restored inside and out. Final details and upgrades left. Planning on getting pinsound, new speakers, and a shaker. Can anyone recommend a shaker that is super easy to install and works well with IJ? (Never installed one before)

Get the pinsound shaker...it works with the pinsound + sound board.

Seconding the pinsound shaker.

It satisfies your criteria of easy to install and no setup at all.

It just works, and works really well.

If I get a pinsound shaker, does it require me to HAVE a pinsound installed already?

yes

I am picking up PAPA's IJPA tomorrow and it has badly faded cabinet art.

What are my current options for purchasing new IJPA cabinet art?

Over the summer I redid my Indy's cab art (Completely faded white on nearly both sides.) I added RADCALs and don't regret it- Shiny hard plastic/acrylic artwork that was easy to install and didn't require too much prep on the cabinet

Radcals are the way for sure.

Before and after.
Happy with the result.
Removing the old art is PITA.

DSC_2858 (resized).JPG

DSC_2859 (resized).JPG

DSC_3089 (resized).JPG

DSC_3176 (resized).JPG

fantastic!! Are those radcals? I agree that removing old art is a pain. I have a friend who let me use his Festool (big sander vacuum thing ) and it was amazing. I didn’t take it down to wood, but the white decal underneath was plenty smooth for the radcals.

I'm pretty stoked to be in the club. It's an awesome pin. That 34 hour round trip nonstop drive wasn't much fun though.

Had a credit dot on my PAPA IJPA for the drop bank and reflowed the solder on the opto board and she's 100% now.

However, the two door switches, one is laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet (for the coil/high voltage) but the switch is wired so that the high voltage is on when the switch is not depressed and off when the switch is depressed... While I was electrified to purchase this pin I was shocked to see that (sorry puns).

Yes B/W introduced the high voltage lockout switch in the early 90's but you need a little clip (service switch actuator) to hold the switch button in if needing to do service work (flashers or solenoids) with the coin door open. Newer games have switches that you can simply pull the button out to have the power on with the coin door open and is much easier. I'm guessing the PAPA guys found it just easier to remove the switch from the door and not muck around with the service switch actuator clip but they would have had to tape the button in for it to work.

But this switch is the opposite. When depressed the switch cuts coil power and when not depressed there is coil power

Oh ... maybe they just swapped the connections from NC to NO???

Or it's the wrong switch but all they had at the time .... ??

So still no updates on the mode hole mod?

Sorry for the delay. It’s coming I promise.

I think about it daily in anticipation.

I just wanted to share this and maybe get some feedback. Large stamped #'s on both Cabinet & backbox. I also just posted my own thread on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-williams-large-heavy-stamped-s-in-cabinet-amp-backbox-

Route operators regularly use metal stamps to identify their property.
Its helps a lot in the case of theft and is mandatory for insurance purposes.
You have to prove that the game is yours in case its stolen and then recovered years later.

Some operators used to steal games from other operators for parts etc...

Visable permanent marks keep other operators from stealing the game and routing it.

https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Piece-Letter-Number-Stamping/dp/B006ZBC4TS

All of my early games have stamps on them, its very retro.

pinballinreno... Thanks for the info. I didn't know that and have owned 250+ late B/W games. This is the first time I've seen this.

Its a cheap retro marking solution.

Nowadays we have cool digital micro dots that can be placed in hidden locations and on circuit boards.

https://www.amazon.com/TheftMark-MicroDot-Protection-Easily-Recover/dp/B07CQKPKQ9

There are even micro RF identifiers that you can just scan the game to see the registration numbers.

So, physical stamps arent really needed any more and hurt the resale value at this time.

Sounds like the operator who first got your game, and put it on route, was very old school.

No radcals but normal decals.

Mr Poa motor just spins around and then comes up mini playfield error I have changed options board all other optics work on machine except these so I think it’s on the main board
Where on main board am I looking for problems

Went to pull my POA to shop my recently purchased Papa IJPA and someone broke a hex wrench off in the set screw

Gonna be fun trying to get that bugger out.

When you say the POA motor just spins around - have you removed the motor off the back of the gearbox or what do you mean?
Does the mini-PF move at all?
The opto board you changed was the mini-PF opto board on the backboard under the mini-PF - correct? Is the new board a Homepin by chance - as there as been issues with these boards.

I did buy it from pinballspareparts I’ll have to have a look
So poa playfield is out, turn on machine and motor will spin all the way around about seven times then stops and then comes up with mini playfield error
The opto board was the one under the mini playfield

Is the opto interrupter on the motor shaft?
The motor will indeed just spin around if the interrupter is off the shaft.

Its the opto board that stops and controls the motor.

Is the opto board connected properly?

If the opto baord isnt a homepin one and is connected properly, it should work.

A picture or video would be helpful.

I can confirm that the Homepin POA boards that PSP sells dont work at all.

A total failure.

I bought 3 of them and PSP is dead quiet about replacing or refunding my money...

I bought 2 different ones from Marco. They work perfectly.

Oddly the 10 opto board I bought from homepin for my Doctor Who is very good and seems very robust.

Anybody has cool coindoor inserts for Indiana Jones?

DSC_3230 (resized).JPG

Man, I just had to deal with that exact thing recently. Fortunately a couple taps with a tack hammer and an awl got the broken tip right out.

Yes I have found Homepin's boards over the years always great, but there definitely seemed to be an issue with their more recent POA opto boards - I think there must have been a bad batch as IIRC I have one in mine from several years ago and it's been fine.

Disappointed you haven't heard back from PSPA, I've always found them pretty good

PSP was one of the earliest companies to offer the POA opto boards.

Everyone was super excited.

Its not clear why they didnt work, its such a simple circuit!

But after the dust settled from that fiasco, a couple other companies made boards that worked.

Now we have some very good POA opto boards, just not from Homepin.

Just picked up a screw extractor set, do you know what size that set screw is?

You can find this info in the parts list - you can download it from IPDB

4008-01083-04 "ss 8-32x1/4 sh-cp-n"

This is a known issue with early run homepin boards. It just needs a resistor change.

Contact [email protected] directly for details of resistor values if you have the resources to do it yourself.

"Dead quiet" is a sad irony. Mark passed away a couple days ago mate. Please allow some days.

you're welcome to pm me your email directly if you want me to get it dug out as a priority but the easiest way will be fix resistor under mikes guidance.

doug

Sorry to hear about Mark, this is very sad.
Condolences to his family.

No worries on my little POA boards. I bought them years ago and threw them away recently.
I dont need anything, Im ok with it, Its just pinball.

Thanks for your help.

Im exceedingly happy with all of the other boards I have bought from Homepin.

Oh that's sad news Doug, I heard that Mark had taken a turn for the worse but that's so sad and hard on his kids - condolences to the family, and you and the team at PSPA.

Fixing it is a no go. The allen wrench that is broken off in the set screw is harder than the screw itself and the collar. So I'll just be pulling the motor assembly with the POA from now on.

I take it that the screw extractor didn't work ... what about drilling it out or cutting it off the shaft? As you can buy the replacement bracket https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16734

The opto interrupter is available as well if you need it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16733

What he said ^^^^^^^^^

This coming soon? Just had 10 rejects in one game, killing me!

Yeah I had a death in the family ... threw me off kilter for a bit.

I’m truly sorry for the delay. I’m expecting some material this week. I’ve a few in the wild and I’m having some consistency issues. I don’t want to let this go until I can be certain it is perfect. My take on it is that I want everyone to be a wowed by it ... I don’t want any questions of it’s efficacy.

Thanks again for the patience.