(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Psw757
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There are 7741 posts in this topic. You are on page 154 of 155.
#7651 15 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I just installed lenticular apron cards

Link?

#7652 15 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I agree with this statement 100%.
I was having an issue where my POA was rubbing that lite jackpot area but then I simply realized that my POA was not pushed forward enough. If you slide the POA as far forward towards the player as possible you should not have an issue with the POA hitting the metal tabs on the lite jackpot sign. At least I stopped having issues after that...and my POA is aligned nearly perfectly in the center and I maintain good control over the left to right shifts as the ball slides down.
I attached a pic of mine in test mode with the mini PF shifted as far right as possible and it comes close but doesn't touch, as well as a pic with it leveled ready to play.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks, this is all great info!

#7653 15 days ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

I have posted these in a few of the Club Owners threads, but wanted to share a fun/cool project I have been working on- Lenticular Apron Cards. I know iterations of these have been around for awhile, but you don't run across them too often- The reason being that they aren't the cheapest thing to make, and they really can be a huge pain creating and assembling. Also add to the fact that a lot of them look really blurry, because resolutions have to be very specific, and small font simply doesn't work on media this size.
I am always perplexed how manufacturers (looking at you Stern) spend all of their time with presentation/artwork, and then when they get to the apron, they slap in Yellow Cards on the cheapest material possible. I get that these cards have a specific purpose, but these cards are the closest thing visually that the player sees.
Anyways, I have completed Star Wars, Guardians of the Galaxy, and Ninja Turtles, and am currently working on a few other titles at the moment- Deadpool will be completed soon.
These can be printed on high resolution clear material, and it will lose some effect, but it will allow for backlighting if you choose to. These are also made to order since they take quite a bit of time, but if you have a simple request- like removing the Stern Logo, or the text "Free Play" I can most likely make these changes before creating the card.
I will be posting in club threads as I create new ones, only to find someone to give a free set to in exchange for pictures/videos on their machine.
Any questions/feedback, are always appreciated.
Putting this here for posterity, lots of people have asked me how to get a set.....
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie

Scroll thru the posts he talks about other
ones he is/has made and what his plans are.

#7655 15 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I have a single lenticular card on my CFTBL. It's very cool.

Do you have a picture of the CFTBL lenticular? I saw a few floating around about 10-ish years ago, but never saw the Creech one.

Also, big thanks to Billc479 for taking pictures for me! I always like when other try to take pictures for me, so they can experience the pain I have to go through to try and grab pictures. These things are a bear to photograph because they shoot light everywhere due to the lenticular lens. That is also why a lot of them look dark in the pictures, because people try and get the direct light off of them, and then they realize the only way to not have glare is to back the light off..... You really can't win.... LOL

I tried a rendering software to sort of emulate the 3D card (a lot of layer effect are missing) layers. This one is sort of close to show the effect-

IJ.gif
#7656 15 days ago

Not pinball related, but relevant to the Indy fans among us...

Bethesda just announced a new Indiana Jones video game, developed by Machine Games (known for the recent Wolfenstein series). No real details, but here's a teaser:

#7657 15 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This is most likely why Special flashers were constantly on and the idol motor was running as that ribbon cable connects the CPU board to the 8 Driver PCB which those 2 components run off. While the idol release coil is not on the 8 Driver board it could still be a symptom of the issue.
So has it resolved all your issues?

I still need to install both ramps and POA. Still some errors but are regarding those parts I need to install.

This is my second WPC pinball and for me it is strange that I cannot test my flashers when the coindoor is open.
Flashers are off and work when coindoor is closed. Also that problem is solved.

GI in the back is still out even after swapping the broken fuse.
Placed a new connector J120

#7658 14 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

I still need to install both ramps and POA. Still some errors but are regarding those parts I need to install.
This is my second WPC pinball and for me it is strange that I cannot test my flashers when the coindoor is open.
Flashers are off and work when coindoor is closed. Also that problem is solved.
GI in the back is still out even after swapping the broken fuse.
Placed a new connector J120

WMS introduced the high voltage cutoff switch for safety reasons and there was a service switch actuator that could be used to keep the power on (of course newer machines they introduce a switch that could simply be pulled out to leave the power on when the door was open). https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11791.

If you have a 3D printer, you can print one yourself https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845560 ... or just get used to closing the coin door

This is from the front of the IJ manual:
Service Switch Actuator (resized).JPG

#7659 14 days ago

Ok, my Indy is JUUUUUUUUSSSST about finished. Machine has been cleaned, shopped and restored inside and out. Final details and upgrades left. Planning on getting pinsound, new speakers, and a shaker. Can anyone recommend a shaker that is super easy to install and works well with IJ? (Never installed one before)

#7660 14 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Ok, my Indy is JUUUUUUUUSSSST about finished. Machine has been cleaned, shopped and restored inside and out. Final details and upgrades left. Planning on getting pinsound, new speakers, and a shaker. Can anyone recommend a shaker that is super easy to install and works well with IJ? (Never installed one before)

Get the pinsound shaker...it works with the pinsound + sound board.

#7661 14 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Ok, my Indy is JUUUUUUUUSSSST about finished. Machine has been cleaned, shopped and restored inside and out. Final details and upgrades left. Planning on getting pinsound, new speakers, and a shaker. Can anyone recommend a shaker that is super easy to install and works well with IJ? (Never installed one before)

Seconding the pinsound shaker.

It satisfies your criteria of easy to install and no setup at all.

It just works, and works really well.

#7662 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Seconding the pinsound shaker.
It satisfies your criteria of easy to install and no setup at all.
It just works, and works really well.

If I get a pinsound shaker, does it require me to HAVE a pinsound installed already?

#7663 14 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

If I get a pinsound shaker, does it require me to HAVE a pinsound installed already?

yes

#7664 14 days ago

I am picking up PAPA's IJPA tomorrow and it has badly faded cabinet art.

What are my current options for purchasing new IJPA cabinet art?

#7665 14 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I am picking up PAPA's IJPA tomorrow and it has badly faded cabinet art.
What are my current options for purchasing new IJPA cabinet art?

Over the summer I redid my Indy's cab art (Completely faded white on nearly both sides.) I added RADCALs and don't regret it- Shiny hard plastic/acrylic artwork that was easy to install and didn't require too much prep on the cabinet

#7666 13 days ago

Radcals are the way for sure.

#7667 12 days ago

Before and after.
Happy with the result.
Removing the old art is PITA.

DSC_2858 (resized).JPGDSC_2859 (resized).JPGDSC_3089 (resized).JPGDSC_3176 (resized).JPG
#7668 12 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Before and after.
Happy with the result.
Removing the old art is PITA.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

fantastic!! Are those radcals? I agree that removing old art is a pain. I have a friend who let me use his Festool (big sander vacuum thing ) and it was amazing. I didn’t take it down to wood, but the white decal underneath was plenty smooth for the radcals.

#7669 12 days ago

I'm pretty stoked to be in the club. It's an awesome pin. That 34 hour round trip nonstop drive wasn't much fun though.

Had a credit dot on my PAPA IJPA for the drop bank and reflowed the solder on the opto board and she's 100% now.

However, the two door switches, one is laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet (for the coil/high voltage) but the switch is wired so that the high voltage is on when the switch is not depressed and off when the switch is depressed... While I was electrified to purchase this pin I was shocked to see that (sorry puns).

#7670 11 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I'm pretty stoked to be in the club. It's an awesome pin. That 34 hour round trip nonstop drive wasn't much fun though.
Had a credit dot on my PAPA IJPA for the drop bank and reflowed the solder on the opto board and she's 100% now.
However, the two door switches, one is laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet (for the coil/high voltage) but the switch is wired so that the high voltage is on when the switch is not depressed and off when the switch is depressed... While I was electrified to purchase this pin I was shocked to see that (sorry puns).

Yes B/W introduced the high voltage lockout switch in the early 90's but you need a little clip (service switch actuator) to hold the switch button in if needing to do service work (flashers or solenoids) with the coin door open. Newer games have switches that you can simply pull the button out to have the power on with the coin door open and is much easier. I'm guessing the PAPA guys found it just easier to remove the switch from the door and not muck around with the service switch actuator clip but they would have had to tape the button in for it to work.

#7671 11 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes B/W introduced the high voltage lockout switch in the early 90's but you need a little clip (service switch actuator) to hold the switch button in if needing to do service work (flashers or solenoids) with the coin door open. Newer games have switches that you can simply pull the button out to have the power on with the coin door open and is much easier. I'm guessing the PAPA guys found it just easier to remove the switch from the door and not muck around with the service switch actuator clip but they would have had to tape the button in for it to work.

But this switch is the opposite. When depressed the switch cuts coil power and when not depressed there is coil power

#7672 11 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

But this switch is the opposite. When depressed the switch cuts coil power and when not depressed there is coil power

Oh ... maybe they just swapped the connections from NC to NO???

Or it's the wrong switch but all they had at the time .... ??

#7673 11 days ago

So still no updates on the mode hole mod?

#7674 11 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

So still no updates on the mode hole mod?

Sorry for the delay. It’s coming I promise.

#7675 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Sorry for the delay. It’s coming I promise.

I think about it daily in anticipation.

#7676 10 days ago

I just wanted to share this and maybe get some feedback. Large stamped #'s on both Cabinet & backbox. I also just posted my own thread on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-williams-large-heavy-stamped-s-in-cabinet-amp-backbox-

#7677 10 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I just wanted to share this and maybe get some feedback. Large stamped #'s on both Cabinet & backbox. I also just posted my own thread on it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-williams-large-heavy-stamped-s-in-cabinet-amp-backbox-

Route operators regularly use metal stamps to identify their property.
Its helps a lot in the case of theft and is mandatory for insurance purposes.
You have to prove that the game is yours in case its stolen and then recovered years later.

Some operators used to steal games from other operators for parts etc...

Visable permanent marks keep other operators from stealing the game and routing it.

amazon.com link »

All of my early games have stamps on them, its very retro.

#7678 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Route operators regularly use metal stamps to identify their property.
Its helps a lot in the case of theft and is mandatory for insurance purposes.

pinballinreno... Thanks for the info. I didn't know that and have owned 250+ late B/W games. This is the first time I've seen this.

#7679 9 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

pinballinreno... Thanks for the info. I didn't know that and have owned 250+ late B/W games. This is the first time I've seen this.

Its a cheap retro marking solution.

Nowadays we have cool digital micro dots that can be placed in hidden locations and on circuit boards.

amazon.com link »

There are even micro RF identifiers that you can just scan the game to see the registration numbers.

So, physical stamps arent really needed any more and hurt the resale value at this time.

Sounds like the operator who first got your game, and put it on route, was very old school.

#7680 9 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

fantastic!! Are those radcals? I agree that removing old art is a pain. I have a friend who let me use his Festool (big sander vacuum thing ) and it was amazing. I didn’t take it down to wood, but the white decal underneath was plenty smooth for the radcals.

No radcals but normal decals.

#7681 7 days ago

Mr Poa motor just spins around and then comes up mini playfield error I have changed options board all other optics work on machine except these so I think it’s on the main board
Where on main board am I looking for problems

#7682 7 days ago

Went to pull my POA to shop my recently purchased Papa IJPA and someone broke a hex wrench off in the set screw

Gonna be fun trying to get that bugger out.

#7683 7 days ago
Quoted from roboclan:

Mr Poa motor just spins around and then comes up mini playfield error I have changed options board all other optics work on machine except these so I think it’s on the main board
Where on main board am I looking for problems

When you say the POA motor just spins around - have you removed the motor off the back of the gearbox or what do you mean?
Does the mini-PF move at all?
The opto board you changed was the mini-PF opto board on the backboard under the mini-PF - correct? Is the new board a Homepin by chance - as there as been issues with these boards.

#7684 7 days ago

I did buy it from pinballspareparts I’ll have to have a look
So poa playfield is out, turn on machine and motor will spin all the way around about seven times then stops and then comes up with mini playfield error
The opto board was the one under the mini playfield

#7685 7 days ago
Quoted from roboclan:

I did buy it from pinballspareparts I’ll have to have a look
So poa playfield is out, turn on machine and motor will spin all the way around about seven times then stops and then comes up with mini playfield error
The opto board was the one under the mini playfield

Is the opto interrupter on the motor shaft?
The motor will indeed just spin around if the interrupter is off the shaft.

Its the opto board that stops and controls the motor.

Is the opto board connected properly?

If the opto baord isnt a homepin one and is connected properly, it should work.

A picture or video would be helpful.

#7686 7 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Is the new board a Homepin by chance

I can confirm that the Homepin POA boards that PSP sells dont work at all.

A total failure.

I bought 3 of them and PSP is dead quiet about replacing or refunding my money...

I bought 2 different ones from Marco. They work perfectly.

Oddly the 10 opto board I bought from homepin for my Doctor Who is very good and seems very robust.

#7687 7 days ago

Anybody has cool coindoor inserts for Indiana Jones?

DSC_3230 (resized).JPG
#7688 7 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

broke a hex wrench off in the set screw

Man, I just had to deal with that exact thing recently. Fortunately a couple taps with a tack hammer and an awl got the broken tip right out.

#7689 6 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I can confirm that the Homepin POA boards that PSP sells dont work at all.
A total failure.
I bought 3 of them and PSP is dead quiet about replacing or refunding my money...
I bough 2 different ones from Marco. They work perfectly.
Oddly the 10 opto board I bought from homepin for my Doctor Who is very good and seems very robust.

Yes I have found Homepin's boards over the years always great, but there definitely seemed to be an issue with their more recent POA opto boards - I think there must have been a bad batch as IIRC I have one in mine from several years ago and it's been fine.

Disappointed you haven't heard back from PSPA, I've always found them pretty good

#7690 6 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes I have found Homepin's boards over the years always great, but there definitely seemed to be an issue with their more recent POA opto boards - I think there must have been a bad batch as IIRC I have one in mine from several years ago and it's been fine.
Disappointed you haven't heard back from PSPA, I've always found them pretty good

PSP was one of the earliest companies to offer the POA opto boards.

Everyone was super excited.

Its not clear why they didnt work, its such a simple circuit!

But after the dust settled from that fiasco, a couple other companies made boards that worked.

Now we have some very good POA opto boards, just not from Homepin.

#7691 6 days ago
Quoted from plovis:

Man, I just had to deal with that exact thing recently. Fortunately a couple taps with a tack hammer and an awl got the broken tip right out.

Just picked up a screw extractor set, do you know what size that set screw is?

#7692 6 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Just picked up a screw extractor set, do you know what size that set screw is?

You can find this info in the parts list - you can download it from IPDB

4008-01083-04 "ss 8-32x1/4 sh-cp-n"

#7693 6 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I can confirm that the Homepin POA boards that PSP sells dont work at all.
A total failure.
I bought 3 of them and PSP is dead quiet about replacing or refunding my money...
I bough 2 different ones from Marco. They work perfectly.
Oddly the 10 opto board I bought from homepin for my Doctor Who is very good and seems very robust.

This is a known issue with early run homepin boards. It just needs a resistor change.

Contact sales@homepin.com directly for details of resistor values if you have the resources to do it yourself.

"Dead quiet" is a sad irony. Mark passed away a couple days ago mate. Please allow some days.

you're welcome to pm me your email directly if you want me to get it dug out as a priority but the easiest way will be fix resistor under mikes guidance.

doug

#7694 6 days ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

This is a known issue with early run homepin boards. It just needs a resistor change.
Contact sales@homepin.com directly for details of resistor values if you have the resources to do it yourself.
"Dead quiet" is a sad irony. Mark passed away a couple days ago mate. Please allow some days.
you're welcome to pm me your email directly if you want me to get it dug out as a priority but the easiest way will be fix resistor under mikes guidance.
doug

Sorry to hear about Mark, this is very sad.
Condolences to his family.

No worries on my little POA boards. I bought them years ago and threw them away recently.
I dont need anything, Im ok with it, Its just pinball.

Thanks for your help.

Im exceedingly happy with all of the other boards I have bought from Homepin.

#7695 6 days ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

This is a known issue with early run homepin boards. It just needs a resistor change.
Contact sales@homepin.com directly for details of resistor values if you have the resources to do it yourself.
"Dead quiet" is a sad irony. Mark passed away a couple days ago mate. Please allow some days.
you're welcome to pm me your email directly if you want me to get it dug out as a priority but the easiest way will be fix resistor under mikes guidance.
doug

Oh that's sad news Doug, I heard that Mark had taken a turn for the worse but that's so sad and hard on his kids - condolences to the family, and you and the team at PSPA.

#7696 6 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

You can find this info in the parts list - you can download it from IPDB
4008-01083-04 "ss 8-32x1/4 sh-cp-n"

Fixing it is a no go. The allen wrench that is broken off in the set screw is harder than the screw itself and the collar. So I'll just be pulling the motor assembly with the POA from now on.

#7697 6 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Fixing it is a no go. The allen wrench that is broken off in the set screw is harder than the screw itself and the collar. So I'll just be pulling the motor assembly with the POA from now on.

I take it that the screw extractor didn't work ... what about drilling it out or cutting it off the shaft? As you can buy the replacement bracket https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16734

The opto interrupter is available as well if you need it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16733

#7698 6 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Fixing it is a no go. The allen wrench that is broken off in the set screw is harder than the screw itself and the collar. So I'll just be pulling the motor assembly with the POA from now on.

What he said ^^^^^^^^^

#7699 3 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Sorry for the delay. It’s coming I promise.

This coming soon? Just had 10 rejects in one game, killing me!

#7700 3 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

This coming soon? Just had 10 rejects in one game, killing me!

Yeah I had a death in the family ... threw me off kilter for a bit.

I’m truly sorry for the delay. I’m expecting some material this week. I’ve a few in the wild and I’m having some consistency issues. I don’t want to let this go until I can be certain it is perfect. My take on it is that I want everyone to be a wowed by it ... I don’t want any questions of it’s efficacy.

Thanks again for the patience.

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