(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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There are 11,589 posts in this topic. You are on page 152 of 232.
#7551 3 years ago
Quoted from JB30:

Been having trouble getting sunk balls kicked up to the idol. The game can cycle through the missing ball sequence (multiple times) and the ball still won't be kicked up. I can hear the popper activate on the sequence, so I assume the ball is just getting hung up down there. I can usually get it to kick up with a little love tap (or 3).
Ya'll think the part is worn, dirty, or is it more likely I have some sort of bogey caught in there?

Clean or replace the opto sensor in there. I had a similar issue, replaced my sensor and the problem was fixed.

#7552 3 years ago
Quoted from JB30:

Been having trouble getting sunk balls kicked up to the idol. The game can cycle through the missing ball sequence (multiple times) and the ball still won't be kicked up. I can hear the popper activate on the sequence, so I assume the ball is just getting hung up down there. I can usually get it to kick up with a little love tap (or 3).
Ya'll think the part is worn, dirty, or is it more likely I have some sort of bogey caught in there?

Take the metal subway off and clean and polish it. Mine was doing that and it was just dried on crud from years of use which was causing a ball hang.

#7553 3 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Last few steps... Just need painted planes, pinsound, and shaker. Any suggestions where I could get a shaker for Indy?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Get the pinsound (if you havent already) and get the pinsound motion control with shaker.

You will never regret this!

#7554 3 years ago

My game started popping out two balls when I start my IJ last week. Now if one drains, it ends that ball.

Any insight on what is causing the issue and what I need to do to fix it? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

#7555 3 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

My game started popping out two balls when I start my IJ last week. Now if one drains, it ends that ball.
Any insight on what is causing the issue and what I need to do to fix it? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Probably a trough opto issue. Have you done a switch test?

#7556 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Screen printed airball protector set is back in stock.[quoted image][quoted image]

Back in stock where?

#7558 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get the pinsound (if you havent already) and get the pinsound motion control with shaker.
You will never regret this!

Agree, pinsound shaker is great. Easy install.

13
#7559 3 years ago

Sometimes the stars align.. How am I going to beat this?
Own it for about half a year now, and I still love it more and more everytime I play it!

Indiana Jones (resized).jpegIndiana Jones (resized).jpeg

#7560 3 years ago
Quoted from Scandell:

Probably a trough opto issue. Have you done a switch test?

I'm having opto issues as well. No subway optos, idol entry, up kicker, left ramp entry, right ramp entry. All other optos working.
Replaced the LM339s on the opto board but still no success. Unplugged the trough boards and same issue. I can see the IR from the optos with my camera so the transmitter is sending but these receivers aren't working it seems

#7561 3 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Agree, pinsound shaker is great. Easy install.

So those of u with the PinSound shaker. Did u customize the shaking or did you use something from the PinSound website? Just wondering how much work it is to fine tune the shaker.

#7562 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So those of u with the PinSound shaker. Did u customize the shaking or did you use something from the PinSound website? Just wondering how much work it is to fine tune the shaker.

Apparently to change the shaking you need to start all over and change them all. Changing one is not possible...so I just alternate between the 4 customized programs available on their site.

#7563 3 years ago

Does the PinSound shaker mount onto that same piece of plywood the transformer is on? If so, you drill holes both through that plywood and the particle board floor of the cabinet, then install the tee nuts underneath the cabinet and buy longer screws to mount the shaker?

#7564 3 years ago

The shaker you need to activiate in the code with the software pinsound studio (free). You can load the mix and add the shaker action to each sound clip. There are some presets, I mainly used those. So popbumpers, shooting the plane, any gun sound etc. Took a bit of customizing but now I am ok with it. I really like it. Also with upgraded sound speaker the bass is cool, shaker action is there. That is the pinball adventure called Indiana Jones!

#7565 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hey Guys! As I'm still a relatively novice IJ owner, I'm still learning the rule set. Any pros out there able to answer the two questions below on gameplay?
1 - Where are all the extra balls hidden? Which ones am I missing?
I have personally only lit the "extra ball" light in the following ways
- Hand of Fate when lite ex ball appears as an option
- 8x bonus is triggered
- Complete Survive the Rope Bridge mode
Shoot again was triggered in the following ways.
- Hidden ball found in Raven's bar
- Extra ball(s) from the POA hole drop
2 - Is there a maximum number of extra balls you can have? I swore the other day I had earned 3 extra balls but I only received 2. I may not have been paying attention though and forgot I lost a ball.

There is another way to get extra ball, which is my favorite because it is so tough. It you collect all five of the Lost Treasures and then hit the captive ball one more time it will light the ‘Special’ in the outlanes. If you hit the special BEFORE the end of that ball, you get the special award. But, you have to make sure you set the special award to extra ball. In order to do this, in your adjustments menu go to A.1 15. You can set the award to a free game, 1 million points (seriously, only a million?), a ticket, or extra ball. Anyone who is reading this needs to take 5 minutes and change this setting to extra ball. Right now! When you actually win the Special award every 800 games or so, its damn exciting and i assure you, you will feel very very disappointed and anti-climactic when you are only awarded a damn ticket, or worse 1 million points.

Also as far as number of extra balls allowed, also go to adjustments menu A.1 03 to adjust maximum number of extras you can accumulate

#7566 3 years ago

Hello everyone.
Today I wanted to play my favourite pinball (IJ as well), but after turning on the pin and launching the ball I pushed the flipper buttons and the pin turned off.
I've tryed many times, always with the same final.
I remember I had the same problem with the star wars pinball.
But this is a Williams not a DE.
Could someone help me saying what kind of problem could cause this ?
Thank you.

#7567 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hello everyone.
Today I wanted to play my favourite pinball (IJ as well), but after turning on the pin and launching the ball I pushed the flipper buttons and the pin turned off.
I've tryed many times, always with the same final.
I remember I had the same problem with the star wars pinball.
But this is a Williams not a DE.
Could someone help me saying what kind of problem could cause this ?
Thank you.

When you say "the pin turned off" do you mean the machine reset and started back up into attract mode? If so this is typically a 5v reset issue and is quite common on B/W machines - the watchdog circuit monitors the 5 volt power and will reset the machine if the voltage drops below a preset value (quite often when you use the flippers). Googling WPC 5v reset will give you a raft of links and information.

Here is a post I found that expands on Clay's "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" wording to include some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.

"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

#7568 3 years ago

Hi Manny65.
Thank you for the help, so for the quick answer.
I will try to explain it better.
Turn on, test, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button...
turn off, test again, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button.
Left or right button is the same.
Pushing the buttons during demo=> no shut down.

#7569 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi Manny65.
Thank you for the help, so for the quick answer.
I will try to explain it better.
Turn on, test, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button...
turn off, test again, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button.
Left or right button is the same.
Pushing the buttons during demo=> no shut down.

Eliminate or bypass the Z-connector

#7570 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So those of u with the PinSound shaker. Did u customize the shaking or did you use something from the PinSound website? Just wondering how much work it is to fine tune the shaker.

The shaker is native to the current firmware for IJ, its listed.

All of the listed games have shaker routines embedded into the pinsound firmware.

It should work without any adjustments or tweaking.

They spend a lot of time trying to make a plug and play solution that just works.

They do an awesome job, no adjustments are really needed.

However if you dont like theirs, you can spend hours or weeks making your own shaker routines by using the pinsound studio.

You cant tweak the pre-set. Its either you make your own, or use theirs.

Theirs is pretty good, they spent a lot of time on it.

#7571 3 years ago

Marco

Along with the troubleshooting guide Manny posted, take a look at the diodes across the flipper coils. Sometimes a bad diode will cause a reset.

#7572 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hello everyone.
Today I wanted to play my favourite pinball (IJ as well), but after turning on the pin and launching the ball I pushed the flipper buttons and the pin turned off.
I've tryed many times, always with the same final.
I remember I had the same problem with the star wars pinball.
But this is a Williams not a DE.
Could someone help me saying what kind of problem could cause this ?
Thank you.

You need to replace the 5V reg with this:
https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/
And change out the 100mf capacitor at C4 while you are at it on the same board.
9 times out of 10 this fixes all low 5V problems on these boards without changing out the bridges and big caps
which can be problematic to replace if not done carefully as you can easily pull out the "tubes" which then you'd be into looking at a stitching repair where these solder in.

#7573 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi Manny65.
Thank you for the help, so for the quick answer.
I will try to explain it better.
Turn on, test, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button...
turn off, test again, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button.
Left or right button is the same.
Pushing the buttons during demo=> no shut down.

I had the same problem several years ago and it was a power driver board issue. I'm sure there is a way to repair the board and solve the issue causing your problem. I wound up replacing my power driver board with a Rotten Dog board and it fixed my issue. I figured the money spent for a new board would be money well spent. I could have tried to find someone to repair my old board but it would still be a 27 year old board with no guarantee that it would be repairable or have long term reliability so I just bought a new board.

Have a look here, it's $359.99:

https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html

The site even states:

Bally/Williams WPC89 & WPC-S Driver board
"Driver board compatible with Williams WPC89 and WPC-S pinball games with better 5V design to stop low voltage resets".

All the Rottendog boards I bought from have been rock solid in my Indiana Jones game. I replace all the backbox boards in my game with 5 new Rottendog boards and 1 Pinsound board years ago and my game has been rock solid ever since. In fact, once I replaced all my old boards my game felt like a new game and it was noticeably livelier. The new boards made a significant difference. I was pretty impressed that the Rottendog boards worked flawlessly with the Pinsound board.

So you can either repair your old power driver board or get a new one. If you can swing the $359.99 for a new board, I would go that direction.

QSS

20201224_101658 (resized).jpg20201224_101658 (resized).jpg
#7574 3 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

You need to replace the 5V reg with this:
https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/
And change out the 100mf capacitor at C4 while you are at it on the same board.
9 times out of 10 this fixes all low 5V problems on these boards without changing out the bridges and big caps
which can be problematic to replace if not done carefully as you can easily pull out the "tubes" which then you'd be into looking at a stitching repair where these solder in.

This is why I bought a new board. My old board might have been simply fixed with a $9 capacitor but I didn't want to deal with the bridges or caps, now or in the future so I just went with a new board. That and I don't have the skill set to make my own board repairs.

QSS

#7575 3 years ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

I had the same problem several years ago and it was a power driver board issue. I'm sure there is a way to repair the board and solve the issue causing your problem. I wound up replacing my power driver board with a Rotten Dog board and it fixed my issue. I figured the money spent for a new board would be money well spent. I could have tried to find someone to repair my old board but it would still be a 27 year old board with no guarantee that it would be repairable or have long term reliability so I just bought a new board.
Have a look here, it's $359.99:
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html
The site even states:
Bally/Williams WPC89 & WPC-S Driver board
"Driver board compatible with Williams WPC89 and WPC-S pinball games with better 5V design to stop low voltage resets".
All the Rottendog boards I bought from have been rock solid in my Indiana Jones game. I replace all the backbox boards in my game with 5 new Rottendog boards and 1 Pinsound board years ago and my game has been rock solid ever since. In fact, once I replaced all my old boards my game felt like a new game and it was noticeably livelier. The new boards made a significant difference. I was pretty impressed that the Rottendog boards worked flawlessly with the Pinsound board.
So you can either repair your old power driver board or get a new one. If you can swing the $359.99 for a new board, I would go that direction.
QSS[quoted image]

Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

This is why I bought a new board. My old board might have been simply fixed with a $9 capacitor but I didn't want to deal with the bridges or caps, now or in the future so I just went with a new board. That and I don't have the skill set to make my own board repairs.
QSS

Send your old boards to Chris Hibbler. He does amazing work, It will be like new when you get it back.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#7576 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Send your old boards to Chris Hibbler. He does amazing work, It will be like new when you get it back.

I bet Chris would do an excellent job. I guess I factored in the cost to ship my board both ways to Chris (and that ain't cheep when shipping Canada to US then back to Canada) plus Chris's time to make repairs + parts so I figured it would be close to the same price for me in the end.

Since Marco1973 is in Italy, he would have the same shipping costs/considerations.

Either way, a new board or a repaired board by Chris, would be a good solution to Marco1973's issue.

QSS

#7577 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The shaker is native to the current firmware for IJ, its listed.
All of the listed games have shaker routines embedded into the pinsound firmware.
It should work without any adjustments or tweaking.
They spend a lot of time trying to make a plug and play solution that just works.
They do an awesome job, no adjustments are really needed.
However if you dont like theirs, you can spend hours or weeks making your own shaker routines by using the pinsound studio.
You cant tweak the pre-set. Its either you make your own, or use theirs.
Theirs is pretty good, they spent a lot of time on it.

Thank you....I don't have any interest in spending hours/days figuring out my own routine....sounds like its plug and play

#7578 3 years ago

Are you guys surprised at the current prices of these IJ games? I'm a little surprised that most are asking $10K+ without color dmd and pin sound....seems crazy to me

#7579 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I'll scan mine if you'd like...

it will be nice....i need this ne too

[email protected]

#7580 3 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

It is used a lot. The gun, both ramps, captive ball, each time the relic turns as well other modes. When I added mine I had to tune it down so it wasn't so strong. Just adjusting the weights. I have one in my ST:TNG and it is way better in IJ. If anyone does not like the shaker, it must be set up wrong because it runs very well in IJ.

Hello

could you send me also please some intruction how to install the shaker pleaze ?!

[email protected]

#7581 3 years ago
Quoted from Vaital:

it will be nice....i need this ne too
[email protected]

His post is dated back in 2013. He sold his Indy.

#7582 3 years ago
Quoted from Vaital:

Hello
could you send me also please some intruction how to install the shaker pleaze ?!
[email protected]

Inactive member...

#7583 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Are you guys surprised at the current prices of these IJ games? I'm a little surprised that most are asking $10K+ without color dmd and pin sound....seems crazy to me

Sounds like you got a Great Deal on yours!

#7584 3 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Sounds like you got a Great Deal on yours!

Yep....from a great seller Happy Holidays

#7585 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Is there any way to acquire a shaker motor? Pinbits always sold out

here it is:

https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control/

#7586 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

This Shaker is custom made.
I'm sure there's no Shaker Motor Kit available for Indy.

https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control/

enjoy

#7587 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I'm in the LCD crowd... like the flexibility of the product.
With no offence if I want dots would stay with the regular panel.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hi,

the LCD has also much better resolution. cause i'm in decision between Color DMD LED or LCD. the LED is smaller and the LCD panel is bigger...so does it fits? and it's possible to add Jackpot Backboard with the LCD panel?

thanks

#7588 3 years ago
Quoted from Vaital:

Hi,
the LCD has also much better resolution. cause i'm in decision between Color DMD LED or LCD. the LED is smaller and the LCD panel is bigger...so does it fits? and it's possible to add Jackpot Backboard with the LCD panel?
thanks

Yes the lcd fits with the jackpot board installed too

#7589 3 years ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Yes the lcd fits with the jackpot board installed too

Just need the LED version... not the 555 twist in bulb board

#7590 3 years ago

Didn’t even know that existed. Good point

#7591 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

E should be 4" other than that its pretty close.
There are a couple small ring errors too.
17 of the 5/16" rubbers and add a couple 3/16 rubbers.
Also in a couple areas 3/8" fits better than the 7/16"
I always build the kit myself out of my bulk rubber supply.
So if something doesnt fit right I just get a rubber that does.
check here its pretty up to date except E is wrong:
https://www.flippers.com/rings/ij.htm

many thanks for clarifying!!

#7592 3 years ago

After eating like an elephant during this days, I changed the power board with another one I had.
Issue vanished.

Before doing this I controlled all the diodes.
Billc479, thank you for suggestion.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Eliminate or bypass the Z-connector

KornFreak28, explain me please what do you mean, it would be important for the next time.

Now I know the problem is the board, I will try to repair it.
A new one will be nice, but even quite 500$ (board, expedition costs, taxes). At the moment I prefere changing some capacitors.
Thank you anyway QuickSilverShelby. I saved your link for the next shopping days

DRDAVE, I will buy 3 or 4 regulators due I have more pinballs. Thank you for the link.
I will post the result of repairing the board, trying it into the pin again after repair.

#7593 3 years ago

Update:
My IJ subway, left and right ramp entry, idol entry optos not registering were all fixed by replacing the opto board. Yay!
Now the only issue remaining is the Idol mutliball issues as seen in the short video below.
Locks all 3 balls but only releases 2 back into play. The Idol doesn't turn to release the 3rd ball and the elephant sound keeps sounding thinking that is releasing the last ball over and over again. Pushing the ramp exit switch manually when in this error, makes the idol turn to release the 3rd ball into play.
Idol test passes in test.

#7595 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

After eating like an elephant during this days, I changed the power board with another one I had.
Issue vanished.
Before doing this I controlled all the diodes.
Billc479, thank you for suggestion.

KornFreak28, explain me please what do you mean, it would be important for the next time.
Now I know the problem is the board, I will try to repair it.
A new one will be nice, but even quite 500$ (board, expedition costs, taxes). At the moment I prefere changing some capacitors.
Thank you anyway QuickSilverShelby. I saved your link for the next shopping days
DRDAVE, I will buy 3 or 4 regulators due I have more pinballs. Thank you for the link.
I will post the result of repairing the board, trying it into the pin again after repair.

Sound like you need to look at replacing BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator

The Z connector that both I and KornFreak28 mentioned is this one pictured below - it was used to simplify the manufacturing process but they are yet another connector where you can lose voltage due to a poor electrical connection.

Z Connector (resized).jpgZ Connector (resized).jpg
#7596 3 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Decided to take Dr. Jones to 11 with a Rockford Fosgate upgrade[quoted image][quoted image]

how did you find a solution for the amp ???

cause I've in my basement a nice woofer from my "car-hifi-tuning times"... Monacor Raptor 12 as good as new (buyed 2005). 1000Rms-1500w-13kg
Of course so much Watt definitely not necessary to play a flipper. but I've still have the hardware and also with low volume i suppose that will give out a good low bass frequency what can be nice. but still thinking how to do it with the amp.
the PinSound Plus has a RCA line out-so the easy way is open to go to the amp.
will let know when my project is done and online.

#7597 3 years ago

Manny65 , how you can see in the first picture, I'm already working in the direction you suggested. C4 looks not so good, so the board. Previous owner made some bad works on it. I will try to do better.
I will order the regulator and the capacitors on the site DRDAVE suggested, if I will find all.

Searching about diodes I noticed a cable and two IDC connectors were not connected.

The cable is red/white and seems to be connected with the other one you can see in the picture exatly over it. Right ?

Little treasure search for Christmas.
The connectors has 2 primary cables, brown/white and dark/grey (so they seems to be). I've found them in the backbox but looking at the cvonnectors that goes on the power board, according to the manual, they don't need to be connected there. Cable itselves seems to be long enough to go somewhere into the cabinet. Someone knows where ?

cable (resized).jpgcable (resized).jpgconnectors (resized).jpgconnectors (resized).jpgwork in progress (resized).jpgwork in progress (resized).jpg
#7598 3 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

manny65 , how you can see in the first picture, I'm already working in the direction you suggested. C4 looks not so good, so the board. Previous owner made some bad works on it. I will try to do better.
I will order the regulator and the capacitors on the site drdave suggested, if I will find all.
Searching about diodes I noticed a cable and two IDC connectors were not connected.
The cable is red/white and seems to be connected with the other one you can see in the picture exatly over it. Right ?
Little treasure search for Christmas.
The connectors has 2 primary cables, brown/white and dark/grey (so they seems to be). I've found them in the backbox but looking at the cvonnectors that goes on the power board, according to the manual, they don't need to be connected there. Cable itselves seems to be long enough to go somewhere into the cabinet. Someone knows where ? [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The 2 IDC connects with the brown/white and black/white wires are for J4 on the 8 Driver PCB however my IDC connections looks a little different to yours and I'm not sure how your orange/white and yellow/white wires connect back to the playfield.

IJ 8 Driver J4 connector (resized).JPGIJ 8 Driver J4 connector (resized).JPGIJ 8 Driver J4 connector - pic (resized).JPGIJ 8 Driver J4 connector - pic (resized).JPG
#7599 3 years ago

My Indy had almost all red star posts when I got it (contrary to the all yellow that game stock with the game). Tried adding some green posts to complement the game inlane guide plastics and purple bands to complement the inner inner purple circle around the friend inserts. I like the flipper colors but not totally sold on the sling star posts. Thoughts?

Additionally, there are some signs that make me think that this game has ALREADY gone through a playfield swap at some point (even thought the current playfield isn’t a looker either tbh). Any ways to tell a stock playfield from a NOS playfield?

EBBC26ED-C11D-4D23-866B-5C267A98A608 (resized).jpegEBBC26ED-C11D-4D23-866B-5C267A98A608 (resized).jpeg
#7600 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Any ways to tell a stock playfield from a NOS playfield? [quoted image]

NOS stands for "New Old Stock" so they would be the same, unless WMS got another run of PF's produced at a later date as they needed more spares (eg if the date on the edge of the PF was 1994 or later then it was produced as a spare) but other than that you wouldn't be able to differentiate what was put in a machine on the production line versus one that went to spare parts.

The original PF's were typically made by several manufacturers (so that WMS could get enough PFs in a short period of time) - the manufacturer of the PF is sometimes under the apron or stamped on the edge of the PF. This is the way to recognise an original PF versus a newer repro.

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