So let me get a few things straight here (and have a few things straightened out for me). So an original DMD uses a grid of 128x32 dots. Each dot in the 128 x 32 grid is a small cell filled with a mixture of noble gases (mostly neon). When high voltage is applied across this cell (by intersecting row and column wires), the gases excite into a plasma state, giving off photons. Those photons then organize to tell you how bad you are at pinball. [good quote from the website Blondihacks] In theory, these give off a flat, presentation.

Introducing the Color DMD in its LED and LCD varieties. The LCD uses pixels to draw the dots (and has all these other "smoothing" and "dotXL" modes) and the LEDs use 128x32 actual LEDs that light up to recreate the dots, dot for dot. Let's assume that if we install either of these, we will have the settings as close to the original DMD settings as possible (for our purposes here let's not bring he extra modes the LCD adds to the factor).

Again, since I am a video person and a visual lighting perfectionist, here are my opinions, strictly speaking in terms of maintaining visual integrity to the original plasma DMD. I am a firm believer that the LCD in regular dots mode is mode is as close and true to the flatness and dot rendering of the original plasma DMD image. With the the LEDs have a very slight reflective principal that I think does a poor job mimicking the the same look of the original Plasma DMDs, adding a very slight 3-Dimensionality that I don't think is reflective of the original look. I have also found them to be more reflective internally between the speaker panel and the outer display screen if not installed properly. While the colors are "more vibrant" in the LED version, I also feel that they don't handle an appropriate flatness through intensely bright areas as well as it should (again I would assume from some of the reflectiveness) that I just don't see in the LCDs. More vibrant doesn't mean truer to the original look of the display. Another big issue is the ghosting effects that it produces for those who are sensitive to that phenomenon (as someone who is constantly battling with room LEDs on video shoots, I am).

Just my two cents, but obviously either way, you can't go wrong with the ColorDMD products. They're both good. And for that matter, I would rather get an LED version for any of my DE games than permanently modify the speaker panel and inevitably screw that up. Will be placing a Color DMD LED order for my Rocky and Bullwinkle not long from now. If I had the chance to use the LCD, I would, but I can't.

can you link me to an actual video of the LCD DMD in that thread? I only see pics..

Exactly!! What's this rubbish colour DMD doing in a beautiful IJ??

I'm in the LCD crowd... like the flexibility of the product.
With no offence if I want dots would stay with the regular panel.

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My LCD ColorDMD should finally arrive today. Can’t wait to get it in. I have the LCD in my STTNG and NGG. Both set to DotsXL. I chose the LED for my TAF to keep the original Thing lights board.

Ricochet is making a replacement start mode hole deflector as the original IJ deflector was notorious for ball rejects. He has test multiple versions with different angles and padding, but has gone for a two piece deflector (the curved piece is the deflector while the 2nd piece is a stablising bracket). Pictures of the deflector can be seen in this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/137#post-5891417

Agree entirely, other than for a TZ. That game looks perfectly themed with a LCD color DMD. Something about the font looking like it's made for that game. But on IJ, yes, LED color DMD all the way. Looks fantastic. Well worth the $ for the upgrade.

After reading all the problems with the mode start hole , mine came with a metal plate above it (former owner) . Shots are 100%

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The former owner is a close friend of MacGyver, for sure
He (?) also applied a Lost treasure insert decal to the left ramp entrance.

haha , never noticed that .

The Cross of Coranado! lol

Now you need the other 6 including the Fish!

Just a quick question as I'm nearing the end of my slow "de-LEDding" of my IJ. The mode start insert is almost completely blocked by the mode hole kickout mech, so I'm having a lot of trouble getting a 44 close enough to avoid light bleeding into the other inserts without it getting hammered by the mech. At this point I'm considering keeping a warm white flex LED in there. I this a particularity of my machine and, if not, how did others solve the problem?

One main advantage of incandescent bulb is the wide light spread. You can't eliminate light bleeding at 100%.
I would not switch to LED just because of this, but to add a simple 3D printed shield. Let me know if you need help.

Just out of curiosity, what is everybody doing in their rubber scenario above the narrow escape gate? Currently I have two 3/16 ID rings (or at least I think that's the size) on each but every now and again I see them with this setup, which I'm assuming is a 3/4 I.D. Picture pulled from the High End Pins photo archive. Thoughts?

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Mine matches the picture, 1 rubber. I read earlier in this thread from a few posters with good knowledge that this is the proper setup.

HEP has it correct - there are a few small errors in the manual diagram. You can refer back to this post for details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/142#post-5927569

The factory setup is one rubber.
Look at 2:14.

Anyone have this issue?

So when ball enters POA, it always goes to the left, I CANNOT hit the top right switch at all.

I'll have to take a Picture of my POA to show you how it has a slight tilt to the left (the POA playfield)

Is having a tilt normal, or should it be level?

If it needs to be level, HOW DO YOU LEVEL IT?

tHANKS

Thanks, Davi. I have no experience with 3D printing, but I'll make sure to take a clear picture of the area the next time I've got the playfield up. Maybe we could work from there. A friend has a 3D printer , so the printing itself should not be a problem.

Pics please...could be multiple issues. (bad dual opto board, misaligned mini PF, metal posts bent in the wrong direction, etc.)

I'm planning to do my playfield swap in a few months and already have most parts ready over the past few years: new ramp, plastics and rails. The machine is in good nick and already has the re-brassed wire forms and some other parts. I have already done the lost plastic mod and lit idols in the speaker/dmd panel.

What I'm wondering about is changing the adventure targets to green while it's getting torn down and cleaned. Has anyone done this? I'm not a purist especially with it having a new cabinet. Seems like it would go better.

3pinballs

My mini playfield is level. There is an Allen set screw that grabs the motor shaft - you need to loosen it to get it level.

That should take care of your problem assuming everything else is working properly.

Im thinking of doing the same, as well as translucent drop targets with LED backlights.

Also going with translucent/frosted pop bumper bodies with the 7 lamp pop bumper lights.
I dont like the bright caps.

I’m not sure this works. Having messed with it a lot, the set screw only allows one position relative to the flat part of the shaft. So that’s kinda set.

I moved the opto part a little to trick the machine into a different home position.

I also used washers under the “stand” that holds the front part to help bias it.

If you can get it to go to both sides lower on the path, then maybe its not tilted, it just be your entry that’s wrong? Just bend those flaps at the top to get the correct drop.

I like your plans on the pop bumpers. Have clear bodies myself ready for it.

My advice is translucent green. I think it will fit to mostly green illuminated plastic set.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/project-paragon-breathing-life-back-into-the-beast/page/17#post-5958521
Not green - but few nice pictures by @tractordoc:

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Never seen these! Very cool. I can think of a lot of good uses for translucents.

Legs done! And Invisaglass installed!

Modding finally complete!

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Mine had two rings but when I re-rubbered it recently went back to the single, which is I believe is spec in the manual. Don’t think it affects gameplay.

So awesome. Any pics of the sides? I’m assuming it’s painted to match the Disney version?

So I was watching the opening of the 3rd installment of the series the other night (for like the 100th time haha), and I was thinking that the opening scene with the John Williams track "Indy's Very First Adventure" should have been one of the 4 modes from this movie. I think it would have been a small upgrade over "The Three Challenges"...given the three challenges and "choose wisely" are kind of related in the storyline.

So instead of: Castle Grunewald, Tank Chase, The Three Challenges, Choose Wisely

It would have been cool to have: Make off with the Cross, Castle Grunewald, Tank Chase, Choose Wisely

Any other owners that would change one of the mode back stories if given the hypothetical opportunity?

I support your "Make Out With the Cross" idea, even though that may be slightly blasphemous.
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As far as other Last Crusade modes, it would have been nice to see a catacombs of Venice mode, or even incorporating the Venice boat chase and the huge boat-chopping propeller.

“Make off” not Make out haha. I would have said escape or steal but those verbs are already used

The more i play Indian Jones the more i love it! Even over newer pins. Ive owned/played most of the top 50 pins and Indy keeps bringing me back. The design and layout/modes are all super creative. Too bad nothing new comes close to Indy.
If i had to sell all my pins and could only keep one it would be this one!

I'd hope so, given the amazing major rework you've just completed

I’ve been getting back into indy big time. Love it.

If any of you haven’t seen the announcement about official Williams code updates coming out, check out the thread. It seems the updates are mostly bug fixes. It would be good for us owners to compile a list of bugs to squash and send it to the coder.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades

Isn't cross abuse something the King of France used against the Knights Templar.

This is pretty neat. Not sure about others, but I feel like the Indy code is pretty tight already. There already is a code fix to give you your ball back if you hit an outlane right after a drop target. Ricochet’s fix with the metal guide eliminates the free narrow escape bonus. I can’t think of any other bugs, part of the reason IJ is such a great pin.

The newer pins seem to have a lot more software bugs and code glitches than IJ. My Ghostbusters, even after a software update a year ago, still has more than a dozen documented unfixed bugs to date.

The newer games have a much deeper gameplay with multiple wizard modes and stacking of modes, so are much more complex. That said, I'm blown away by what the WMS coding team were able to achieve with limited time and writing it assembly (although I understand they used an Apple framework to make it easier, which is understandable if you've ever programmed in assembly).

The IJ bug I often bump into is having 2 flashing winged lights, this occurs when you get the Dogfight from Hand of Fate. Another issue is with the Eternal Life wizard mode, if you complete it (not that I ever have) you're supposed to get 1 billion points but it doesn't (or sometimes doesn't) get added to your score. There's also a scoring issue with the Mine Cart mode as well. So it would be good to get these fixed.

Good lord man, you did an amazing job on it. Definitely should be the last pin you ever sell. Gorgeous.

Gold balls from Matt at Back Alley!

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hopefully this video comes through

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iOSxAfWFeyHupWDdAazR4rtF_1HDlP53/view?usp=sharing

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Ok, first step, take a video of the Mini PF test in the test mode (#15).

Your PF may be too far back, it may need to be shifted towards to the player a bit...try and ensure it sits as far forward as possible without hitting the metal ramp in front of it. Probably won't help the left to right problem, but it will help with other issues which may not be visible at this point.

It appears that your mini PF is misaligned on the mounting bar, but I don't know for sure until we can see the mini PF test running and how it settles.

Edit: You also appear to have a washer behind the rope bridge. This may or may not be ok, and is definitely not stock, so I would remove that as well to ensure your starting is point is the stock setup.

I agree. I don’t think your set screw is all the way right on the shaft. It shouldn’t have that much play.

Old blown out gearboxes have a lot of play in them.

Can you get replacement gears or do you need to replace the whole gearbox??

I would ( and I did..) just replace the motor and gearbox as an assembly while you can get them.

Marco has them for now.

I think pinball spare parts also has them in your area.
Maybe pop in a new POA opto board while you have it apart. The new ones are faster responding to me it seems.