(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,592 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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There are 11,592 posts in this topic. You are on page 148 of 232.
#7351 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I’m absolutely not trying to rip on Cliffy, just trying to see if anybody has the same issue. Cliff, like plenty of the big names in the hobby, has done far too much for the hobby for anybody to be mad at him. Here’s my theory:
After 27 years of play, the scoop itself (the metal piece that Jim is properly redesigning) and the scoop hole have worn down. There is significant wear on the scoop hole and the scoop deflector has inevitably bent up slightly over time. In theory, if the scoop deflector had been designed perfectly, the scoop wouldn’t have worn down after rejection after rejection, adding the cliffy wouldnt have made a difference.
However, the scoop hole and deflector have worn down equally after nearly 30 years and correcting only one of them has made the reject rate far worse.

I have the Cliffy installed along with Ricochet new deflector (not the final version), and mine is almost 100% from the left flipper and probably 90% from the right flipper

#7352 3 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

U6 check sum error.
Anyone know what this is?

Game ROM on CPU board didnt boot, game data didnt make it into RAM.

5v or data line problem, data not getting into RAM.

loose ROM chip
bad ROM socket
Bad, blown or corrupt game ROM.
Loose CPU connector to the driver board affecting 5v data line.

Bad/blown RAM chip on CPU board
data line problem (battery corrosion, bad/broken trace)

and some others.

#7353 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Game ROM on CPU board didnt boot, game data didnt make it into RAM.
5v or data line problem, data not getting into RAM.
loose ROM chip
bad ROM socket
Bad, blown or corrupt game ROM.
Loose CPU connector to the driver board affecting 5v data line.
Bad/blown RAM chip on CPU board
data line problem (battery corrosion, bad/broken trace)
and some others.

Thank u

#7354 3 years ago
3ACA4227-3125-46EC-A36D-32F03EB27AD4 (resized).jpeg3ACA4227-3125-46EC-A36D-32F03EB27AD4 (resized).jpeg85383BE4-A740-4790-85E7-2FB712C690E1 (resized).jpeg85383BE4-A740-4790-85E7-2FB712C690E1 (resized).jpeg98CD8E2B-8A90-4052-AA8F-26E89DA3FF20 (resized).jpeg98CD8E2B-8A90-4052-AA8F-26E89DA3FF20 (resized).jpegF1FBABEB-2457-4E96-AFF0-AC0BD20DE6CB (resized).jpegF1FBABEB-2457-4E96-AFF0-AC0BD20DE6CB (resized).jpeg
#7355 3 years ago

Did you fix it?
Nice looking game!

#7356 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

So the new mod by Ricochet is a must have, not the Color DMD [quoted image]

Or you just remove the entire f**king deflector, line the area with dead drop foam, and get 100% stick rate on the mode hole.

Then buy the Color DMD...which is the best Color DMD programming for any Bally/Williams game.

(Disclaimer: I think Ricochet 's mod is brilliant...just not for me because my system works perfectly!)

#7357 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

my system works perfectly

Pics or it didn't happen

#7358 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I’m absolutely not trying to rip on Cliffy, just trying to see if anybody has the same issue. Cliff, like plenty of the big names in the hobby, has done far too much for the hobby for anybody to be mad at him. Here’s my theory:
After 27 years of play, the scoop itself (the metal piece that Jim is properly redesigning) and the scoop hole have worn down. There is significant wear on the scoop hole and the scoop deflector has inevitably bent up slightly over time. In theory, if the scoop deflector had been designed perfectly, the scoop wouldn’t have worn down after rejection after rejection, adding the cliffy wouldnt have made a difference.
However, the scoop hole and deflector have worn down equally after nearly 30 years and correcting only one of them has made the reject rate far worse.

Nah you've missed understood me, I didn't think you were having a crack at Cliff and I'm sorry if it was interpreted that way. All I was just trying to say was if you've changed multiple things then any one of those things (or a combination of them) could be the cause but you need further testing (changing one thing at a time) to confirm what is causing the issue.

But if you have wear of the scoop hole then it is quite possible that the rejects are associated the cliffy, as hole protectors (regardless of whether it's a Cliffy or any alternate), won't sit flat on the playfield causing ball rejects and will start to bend out of shape making it even harder. Typically the recommendation before installing a hole protector is to fill any of the worn area such that the protector will sit flat and avoid getting bent from the ball.

#7359 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Pics or it didn't happen

Don't need the pics. There are multiple testimonials by other users WAY earlier in this thread (like, years ago...). Here's the latest one:

Quoted from paynemic:

I tried all of the potential fixes. Nothing worked for me. I had the dang poa off so many times! Finally I just took the metal thing out and foamed it like boob advocates and it’s been great ever since. Occasional brick out just to keep it interesting, but it works the it “should” (IMO).

Again...I think the mod that's been developed is brilliant...REALLY. I just don't find it necessary for MY machine because the full removal of the deflector and lining the area with foam has had perfect results for me with no damage to the game whatsoever. (And I have an HEP IJ with a clearcoated NOS playfield, so I wouldn't risk that kind of investment if I thought it would get damaged.)

#7360 3 years ago

I am having a strange issue with the Hurry Up shot. When it gets triggered by something like Hand of Fate, the machine goes into Hurry Up mode with the proper music and call out; however, it seems to register a few seconds later with the "Great Shot!" callout and stops, as if I made the shot, even when I have not made it. Any thoughts on what is going on there or what I can do to diagnose and fix it?

Thanks so much.

#7361 3 years ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I am having a strange issue with the Hurry Up shot. When it gets triggered by something like Hand of Fate, the machine goes into Hurry Up mode with the proper music and call out; however, it seems to register a few seconds later with the "Great Shot!" callout and stops, as if I made the shot, even when I have not made it. Any thoughts on what is going on there or what I can do to diagnose and fix it?
Thanks so much.

I've got to start with the obvious...any chance you are hitting the red target next to the ball lock hole? That will give you credit for the Dog Fight too.

I assume you have no errors registering? If not, I would check what is happening with the wiring for that red target.

#7362 3 years ago

I tried my hand at mapping the backbox GI and flashers to the translite. Maybe this is helpful to others as well. I'm currently working on a lamp map/matrix for the playfield - so if somebody has a high-res picture of the full underside of the playfield, I'd greatly appreciate it. Unfortunately my cellphone camera sucks, otherwise I'd just take one myself.
Edit: Credit to Ricochet for the original picture of the backbox (grabbed from the Pinside "Machines" section).
Backbox Lights 2 (resized).jpgBackbox Lights 2 (resized).jpg

#7363 3 years ago

Anyone have the carriage bolt size for the side rails?
Also looking for the schematics for the DCS sound board!

#7364 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I've got to start with the obvious...any chance you are hitting the red target next to the ball lock hole? That will give you credit for the Dog Fight too.
I assume you have no errors registering? If not, I would check what is happening with the wiring for that red target.

Ha! I’m embarrassed. I’ve owned the game for 10 years and never knew that. I’ll see if that’s it. Thanks.

#7365 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Anyone have the carriage bolt size for the side rails?
Also looking for the schematics for the DCS sound board!

4308-01123-20
Schematic is attached.
image_20173_1_600x600@2x (resized).jpgimage_20173_1_600x600@2x (resized).jpg

Williams WPC Schematic manual (1).pdfWilliams WPC Schematic manual (1).pdf
#7366 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

4308-01123-20
Schematic is attached

Many thanks!
Regards
Rob

#7367 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Anybody else had trouble with the cliffy protector making the scoop shot reject a lot more? Before my teardown, it would reject probably 40% of the time, now it rejects almost 80% of the time after installing.
Just ordered a set of EvilMcBooty’s (what a name) IJ Scoop Lock Kit, and desperately waiting for Jim’s conical lock helper, but curious if anybody else experienced this or give me some pointers on how I might have installed mine wrong.

Yea this is a real problem with the thicker carbon fiber protector. With all of the testing I’ve done ... one of the problems with consistency with my scoop was the ball hop caused by the protector.

The ball damage that occurs is generally around the taper of the saucer hole... I’ve come to the conclusion that the protector serves as a “holder” for the finish so when the ball clunks against the edge of the hole it helps to reduce chipping on the flat of the playfield ... it won’t protect the inner edge of the hole.

#7368 3 years ago

Added 3 cool white led strips (3smd , 6v) under the Idol .

IMG_20201129_153833 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_153833 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_153841 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_153841 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_153852 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_153852 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_161114 (resized).jpgIMG_20201129_161114 (resized).jpg

#7369 3 years ago
Quoted from Inpw:

I tried my hand at mapping the backbox GI and flashers to the translite. Maybe this is helpful to others as well. I'm currently working on a lamp map/matrix for the playfield - so if somebody has a high-res picture of the full underside of the playfield, I'd greatly appreciate it. Unfortunately my cellphone camera sucks, otherwise I'd just take one myself.
Edit: Credit to Ricochet for the original picture of the backbox (grabbed from the Pinside "Machines" section).
[quoted image]

Here is all of the bulb info you will need for whatever you want to do
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vWCDP2mHtD3iR8CfPyN1i4qBFt_whKb21BIooUhlpP4/edit?usp=sharing

Here is my restoration photo album ... you may find some pics in there that may be useful.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PKPTgfgCzVQE7CAc8

#7370 3 years ago

Thanks, that's a great resource. I've created a similar list of the bulbs I've used and would now like to map them to a picture of the underside of the playfield.

#7371 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yea this is a real problem with the thicker carbon fiber protector. With all of the testing I’ve done ... one of the problems with consistency with my scoop was the ball hop caused by the protector.
The ball damage that occurs is generally around the taper of the saucer hole... I’ve come to the conclusion that the protector serves as a “holder” for the finish so when the ball clunks against the edge of the hole it helps to reduce chipping on the flat of the playfield ... it won’t protect the inner edge of the hole.

Will it be necessary to remove the carbon fiber protector when the Antidote mod is installed? If so, any tips on how to avoid damaging the clear coat? Thanks!

#7372 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Will it be necessary to remove the carbon fiber protector when the Antidote mod is installed? If so, any tips on how to avoid damaging the clear coat? Thanks!

Nope not necessary... it works with or without either the carbon fiber or steel protector.

#7373 3 years ago
Quoted from Inpw:

Thanks, that's a great resource. I've created a similar list of the bulbs I've used and would now like to map them to a picture of the underside of the playfield.

Here is a simulated view as playfield lifted (how the artwork/insert) look like from bottom side.

PF_lifted.jpgPF_lifted.jpg
#7374 3 years ago

Thanks, that is very helpful.

#7375 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yea this is a real problem with the thicker carbon fiber protector.

Aw, shoot. I *just* ordered a new carbon fiber protector from Cliff to replace my old steel one, which is pretty dented around the inner rim. So you're saying the carbon fiber version isn't as good overall? Should I stick with the steel one despite it being pounded to the contours of the hole after 10+ years? I was planning on replacing the protector at the same time I was installing Lao's Antidote, but it's not like the steel one isn't still doing its job. I just wanted a new thing.

#7376 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Aw, shoot. I *just* ordered a new carbon fiber protector from Cliff to replace my old steel one, which is pretty dented around the inner rim. So you're saying the carbon fiber version isn't as good overall? Should I stick with the steel one despite it being pounded to the contours of the hole after 10+ years? I was planning on replacing the protector at the same time I was installing Lao's Antidote, but it's not like the steel one isn't still doing its job. I just wanted a new thing.

I’m sure it is beneficial. I would install one regardless. I’ve just seen that there is some clear coat crushing along the edge of the hole. That is unavoidable. However the new thicker protector does have an impact on the stick performance of the factory deflector because the ball goes airborne when it hits the edge of it. The higher the ball hits the stock deflector ... the odds of it sticking in the mode hole go down.

#7377 3 years ago

I was asked if I had a template for the Mylar piece that I added under Davi center targets air ball deflector...

Print to 100% scale or use directly as a cut template.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwSAMkVlqbYStKwtLNUBxBZYJRkELYKQ/view?usp=sharing

#7378 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I was asked if I had a template for the Mylar piece that I added under davi center targets air ball deflector...
Print to 100% scale or use directly as a cut template.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwSAMkVlqbYStKwtLNUBxBZYJRkELYKQ/view?usp=sharing

Thanks for sharing mate - is there anything you don't have?? LOL

#7379 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thanks for sharing mate - is there anything you don't have?? LOL

Lol

#7380 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Will it be necessary to remove the carbon fiber protector when the Antidote mod is installed? If so, any tips on how to avoid damaging the clear coat? Thanks!

Not necessary on my game

#7381 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thanks for sharing mate - is there anything you don't have?? LOL

I DON’T have my production run of Lao’s Antidote done yet !!!!

The mere fact that I have time to post anything is a good sign though!

#7382 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

ao’s Antidote done yet !

Whenever ...keep me on the list

#7383 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Whenever ...keep me on the list

Yup.. I’ll be running an initial quantity of 100... there will be no shortage

#7384 3 years ago
02C3BF60-4F5D-4F59-AC68-4E347CB2FF2E (resized).jpeg02C3BF60-4F5D-4F59-AC68-4E347CB2FF2E (resized).jpeg
#7385 3 years ago

I just installed pinsound and flipper fidelity speakers. Loaded up the sound version from Indiana Jones Reorchestrated
An amazing piece of reorchestration by EndProdukt. Sounds great except at end of ball, the bonus callouts seem to clip as the next bonus is being vocalized. Any ideas why the bonus callouts clip as the bonus is given at end of ball?

Thanks.

#7386 3 years ago
Quoted from ozdave:

Hi all, I have a ghosting issue on my IJ. Have recently added an LEDOCD board and it’s better but have some areas that are still affected. I on INDY and get the idol seem particularly bad but it’s happening in a few spots.
Anyone have any thoughts on what else it could be?
Some samples attached, thanks for your help![quoted image][quoted image]

Just to close the loop on this. I have resolved it. Turns out it was being caused by the mod installed for the biplane propeller which was wired to the mode select light.

I had someone come and look. He put a diode on and it’s now resolved.

Curious how others have this wired though?

#7387 3 years ago
Quoted from ozdave:

Curious how others have this wired though?

Me too

#7388 3 years ago
Quoted from ozdave:

Just to close the loop on this. I have resolved it. Turns out it was being caused by the mod installed for the biplane propeller which was wired to the mode select light.
I had someone come and look. He put a diode on and it’s now resolved.
Curious how others have this wired though?

Good to know - thanks for the update

#7389 3 years ago

Has anyone found a good 3d model to print for either of the planes?

#7390 3 years ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

Has anyone found a good 3d model to print for either of the planes?

Even if you find it - makes no sense, the print quality will be far from nice, and a lot of post-processing steps are required.
Better to buy an almost ready Messerschmitt plane for few bucks or a fully upgraded set from KornFreak.

#7391 3 years ago

In case anyone is interested, I created a closeup video of the LED version of the ColorDMD on my Indy:

#7392 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

In case anyone is interested, I created a closeup video of the LED version of the ColorDMD on my Indy:

Thanks, nice vid. By the way, is it still possible to do that light mod around the DMD? If so, how/where?

#7393 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

In case anyone is interested, I created a closeup video of the LED version of the ColorDMD on my Indy:

Michigan J Frog eh?

The one on location nearby to me has a ColorDMD LCD rather than LED. Definitely looks different. Oddly enough, I think I prefer the LCD one the LED so long as it's not set to that horrible over rez non-dot graphic style.

#7394 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks, nice vid. By the way, is it still possible to do that light mod around the DMD? If so, how/where?

I bought that mod so long ago, I can't even remember where I got it. Probably Marcos. There are multiple versions of it - I'm sure you can still find one floating around. It was just the PCB - I had to cut the holes in the panel myself, though.

Quoted from radial_head:

No Michigan J Frog eh?
The one on location nearby to me has a ColorDMD LCD rather than LED. Definitely looks different. Oddly enough, I think I prefer the LCD one the LED so long as it's not set to that horrible over rez non-dot graphic style.

Yes, Michigan J. Frog! I wouldn't leave it out.

As someone who likes the classic look and tech of pinball, there's just something wrong about replacing a DMD with an LCD screen. There's a time and place for LCD, but for me a 90s Williams game ain't it. To each their own! I won't judge.

Well, maybe I'll judge a little.
After all, I'm sure DMD purists would judge me just for adding colour!

#7395 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

In case anyone is interested, I created a closeup video of the LED version of the ColorDMD on my Indy:

Wow this looks great! I was thinking about going LCD on mine but this may have just convinced me to do LED.

#7396 3 years ago

I just love the dots from that era. Do not get me wrong, I have modern LCD's also in JP BKSoR. But I like that those dots tell the story. Going color for me was always with LED, I like to total blackness of LED and the vividness of the colors. Next to that the formfactor is one-on-one.

#7397 3 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Wow this looks great! I was thinking about going LCD on mine but this may have just convinced me to do LED.

The eternal debate rages on...we will never truly know which one is the better decision.

I promise you two things, 1) whichever one you get you will like a lot, and 2) whichever one you get you will second guess that decision a bit a few times afterwards based on the comments posted here.

#7398 3 years ago

can someone with an LCD color DMD post a short vid of theirs so that I/we can compare the two? (seems most that have LCD have it to Dots XL)

thanks,
m

#7399 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’ve a bending jig I made.
A few will go out to my early birds but I’m not seeing a need for any more changes.
Just didn’t want to dump the bucks into the big order until I felt completely confident.
I’m ready to place the big order !
I know it’s taking forever ... I appreciate you all hanging in there. I’m testing the snot out of it ... making sure all the bends are consistent and it behaves consistently.
It’s a “free time” gig.
[quoted image]

What's the purpose of the metal?

#7400 3 years ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

can someone with an LCD color DMD post a short vid of theirs so that I/we can compare the two? (seems most that have LCD have it to Dots XL)
thanks,
m

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led

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