In the owners manual the ribbon cable that attaches to the sound board says it's a 14 inch ribbon cable, however looking at the panel it should be 23.5 inches with multiple connections?
Error in manual? The cable I'm having the issue with is #19

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Yes, error. These 90's manuals are full of them.
This particular ribbon cable can get old.

To test the the sound board was going to swap boards with my No Fear ... seems I have lost sound to the DMD panel speakers on the Indy

Try swapping the No Fear ribbon cable first.

Thanks Eric

What doe DBV means?

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Dollar Bill Validator

Thanks.
Strange about this cabinet is the fact that the SN is a 52017 instead of a 50017 and I see a lot of Udinesa stickers in the cabinet.
When I Google Undinesa it seems they made replicas of Williams cabinets.

Can somebody comfirm this?

Well, after many years looking for a nice IJPA, I finally got a beauty. Had a few questions for the veterans.

1. The post for the path of adventure seems to stay up during play. The first time it went up, the post stopped the ball, but would not release. Game reset and post went down, but didn't go back up. So, I guess, it's rubbing? I saw old post to move bracket so it doesn't rub or get stopped going up or down?
2. See picture for broken ramp plastic. I see for sale at Planetary pinball. Is there a plastic protector for this part too?

Thanks.

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Yes just make sure that up post is loose in the hole and go into test mode to check it is able to go up & down.

I've not seen a protector for that plastic and don't believe it is common issue. People do have balls come off the ramps but that is after the U turn and it comes off the wireform. IJ is subject to various airballs (typically off the drop targets) and maybe it was taken out by one?? I'd suggest playing it a bit before replacing the plastic to see if there is an issue with the ramp or airballs or maybe it was just a 1 in a million chance that caused it break

Oh and congrats on joining the club - you've picked up a beauty!!!

Might be worth mentioning again that this post's default state is UP. It only drops down to 1. allow the ball into the POA, or 2. held to allow the ball to bypass the POA for jackpots or Rope Bridge mode.

If it's stuck down and not physically catching on anything, you could have a problem with the coil.

If you look up IJ on ipsnd.net you'll find a whole bunch of other 5--17 prefixes other than 50017. Same is true of many other B/W games from that era. I always wondered if the second and third digits of the serial number had to do with the build date, shipping state or country, or who knows what else.

Fixed my own problem. Post coil assembly needed a little love. Replaced coil sleeve (it was dirty) and polished post. Now, the post pops up easily and quickly. While there, I did notice you could twist bracket to adjust if needed. Now, game works 100%

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That's interesting - I checked out my machines which vary (not all machines were for Australia when manufactured) however I'm wondering whether it was to do with the machine configuration as the same game was produced with different coin doors and default languages (the WPC89 CPU board used 0 ohm resistors/jumpers on W11-W18 to set the language) - hence needing different hardware BOMs when being manufactured and they used the model number to signify this??

With the WPC-S and WPC-95 boards the default language setting were change to DIP switches, but even then they needed to be set in a particular way. Also they still had all their coin door variants

Added LED OCD board. My game currently has a Rottendog driver board and it connects up and works fine. I do have original board, which I will get repaired/refurbished and put back in the game. In the mean time, the LED OCB works great. Posted before and after pictures here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0rGFssfGGqYCnI

That looks great, especially next to that STTNG - classic combo there

yes, they did assemble indiana jones for williams, and probably few others titles....

Hi all, I have a ghosting issue on my IJ. Have recently added an LEDOCD board and it’s better but have some areas that are still affected. I on INDY and get the idol seem particularly bad but it’s happening in a few spots.

Anyone have any thoughts on what else it could be?

Some samples attached, thanks for your help!

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What kind of LED do you have? For LEDOCD, the normally ghosting version is better than non-ghosting.

Use the software program to make a few adjustments.
Adjust the brightness down a little like 77%
maybe change the delay to 3

Its pretty easy to use the software and you can fiddle with it a lot, as it also has a reset to go back to square one if you get lost.

You can get it perfect with a little time spent on it since you can work on strings as well as individual lights.

In one case I had to use a non ghosting bulb on one light for my DW.

I assumed non ghosting but it came fitted out with LED’s when I bought it, how would I check?

Thanks I’ll give that a try

Sometimes there is a "NG" printed on the bulb somewhere.

Comet would know more.

For LEDOCD you want regular leds for the full effect

Non-ghosting bulbs wont dim down very much before they shut off
A lot of the special effects would be lost then.

So, you can use non-ghosting leds if you slready have them, but the wonderfull effects will be mostly lost.

The fading effect works great elsewhere. So pretty happy with it. It’s just it didn’t resolve the ghosting issues which really appears to be multiple lamps coming on.

Here’s another example doing single lamp test. This is supposed to be only T but both hand of fate and tank chase is coming on.

This 3 light pattern is happening all over the place as I rotate through the different lamps

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You might have a wiring/diode issue if its a whole string.

Sounds hard to solve! Is it likely to be in one spot? Where do I start troubleshooting?

To all of my fellow Indy enthusiasts who have been waiting patiently for my scoop/protector...

My free time is about to return ... I’ll be getting to these very soon.

Thanks for your patience everyone. I’m so sorry this got sacked for a bit.

Hello IJ Owners!

I have a small issue I wanted to get the Group's thoughts on. In short, I had to replace my Single Drop Target due one of the threads was broken off (I received the machine from the previous owner this way). I went with the one from Pinball Life (link below) and it is very good. The problem I am having now is that the airballs off of this drop target are more prevalent than ever. When I hit a hard fastball with the left flipper up the blue pathway, the drop target often smashes the ball back like a hard hit line drive right into the wing of the white plane. As I'm on the planes waiting list with KornFreak28 ... I'm thinking I need to solve this problem before my new planes are installed.

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-bank-drop-target-assembly.html

I use the plastic from Davi on the 3 bank targets and it works flawlessly...no airballs there. On the single drop target I have a deflector but the ball seems to fly more on a line drive than up. OR...I can see that the deflector is positioned higher up than the one on the 3 bank target, which may be high enough to cause the ball to not hit the deflector on those shots.

So my next idea was to deploy the same fix used on my GB premium. It too has drop targets and there are numerous complaints about airballs off of them, which was remedied by using the stronger springs (also from Pinball Life) that can be found at the link below. The problem is...this GB spring is the exact same spring that is already on my new single drop target mechanism. So my spring is higher tension, yet I'm still seeing the issue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ghostbusters-scoleri-brothers-drop-target-spring-fix-kit.html

Do you recommend I make the spring even tighter? looser? Any ideas are welcomed

What kind of Post Rubbers do you have installed behind the drop target?

Ironically those are the only ones I haven’t changed due to their PITA location.

Hmmm...are you implying that maybe my drop target is dropping so fast is causing the fast ball to actually continue past it and collide with the rubber...therefore creating almost a flipper hit backwards? They do look short and thicker now...I will swap them out with the taller skinnier ones I have. Thanks for the input!

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Ok so I changed out the post rubbers and put the proper size on. What a pain to get at. I also swapped to the Davi deflector which has a slightly smaller footprint.

Played a few rounds and I still get Airballs albeit not quite as bad as before. Anything else I can do to minimize them let me know. Thanks!

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What is the PF pitch?

Is the peak of arrow insert lowered or raised? Or what is that in the clearcoat?

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Just got an IJPA and learning the machine. I noticed ball not getting to right side of pathway to adventure when it first enters. Friend suggested I check level and I did notice it was off. So, I leveled. Now the opposite is happening. I can't seem to get a happy balance. Another friend said to adjust the set screw. Any strategy I should use? Thanks.

6.5

As with many of the IJ machines over time, my inserts have raised up a bit...combine that with the mylar overlay in that part of the playfield makes it look like that over the arrow.

I actually just did some more testing and with the proper rubber posts and now the air balls are far less frequent...so I think I can put this issue to bed. I can't believe I never noticed the rubber posts were different heights than the others until it was mentioned here. Thanks schwarz !

Show a pic and I'm sure the group will be able to chime in on what looks off.

Mine can go to the right side first switch, but I can’t keep it to the right. If I hold the right flipper it hits that first switch and the rolls into the first hole in the middle. So I have a hard time getting that upper right light off. Sort of piggybacking your help request, possible to adjust/level the POA playfield independent of the entire playfield?

Yes, you can adjust it and level it. Perform the mini PF test and see where it lines up in the middle. Then adjust and tighten until it is level like you want it.

It takes quite a bit of adjusting to get it absolutely dead center where the ball will drop and sit still, and to the point where you can hold left and stays left, and vice versa on the right. Alternatively you can get it "close enough" and then start left and slingshot it to the right to hit the second switch on the way down. I prefer the slingshot method, as it gives me more control the entire way down and slows everything down a bit.

Think I need to adjust my POA - mine is definitely not that easy

It never stays perfect for very long, with the rotations over and over it needs to be tightened every so often. This is why I often use the slingshot method as to not rely on consistent perfect balance.

Before being able to have the POA in the perfect spot and tightened in place, the metal pathway to the left of the POA needs to be perfectly in line, as does the rope bridge (and its pitch), not to mention the two tabs on the rope bridge should be dialed in too. Oh and I can't forget the dam ball stopper, if that is too far forward the ball may get caught up there and skip the POA entirely. Without everything in line, the perfect spot for the POA won't work because you need to be sure that when it rotates it does not make any contact with either or both the left ramp and the metal pathway on the far left of the playfield. Having the POA too far back will also cause rubbing. I'm talking 1-2mm adjustments here and there.

It's really not as bad as it sounds, after about the 3rd time of taking everything off and putting it back on, it has become more routine and I can do it pretty fast if needed on the fly.

How about a poll?

Name a gameplay feature of IJ that you are very good at, AND also name one you are not very good at.

The Good: I am pretty solid on the video modes, completing the mine cart 8/10 times, getting the extra ball 8/10 times at the bar.

The Bad: I am weak when it comes to getting I-N-D-Y lit as I'm not as good moving the selections left as I am going right...as a result I go right most of the time. If I could do both directions equally, my score would improve.

I used to be great at the minecart, but ever since I discovered the secret Frog Bonus, I stopped trying to complete the whole mode.
I am good at "follow the flashing Grail," though. I set the machine to start at level 2 (because default is painfully slow), and I still have to fail on purpose if I want to see the face melting animation.

I am really bad at hitting the single drop/captive ball, though. And even when I do, it seems like it comes back SDTM half the time. Makes hitting that shot super satisfying, though.

Since there's always new members to the club that may not be aware of the secret copyright-infringing Frog Bonus that took many years to discover, check it out here:

What!!! I never knew this existed! Is there a certain pattern you must perform in order to see it?

It's VERY specific, which is probably why it remained hidden for 18 years.

You must hold BOTH flipper buttons when you start a game, then you have to get to minecart video mode. Then you have to crash through the FOURTH barrier that appears on the RIGHT side.

I always try that but forget to hold both flipperbuttons at start. So never got there.

I made up my mind and am in the process of going full incandescent. I think the game really profits from the warmer and softer light and I actually don't mind having to change the bulbs a bit more often. I'm sure you could get almost the same results with LED OCD, but to me it's not worth the pricetag and hassle to get it just right.