Ditto

We Redesigned the right wire ramp to go through the ruins. It really opens up the middle of the playfield!

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Yes....

Following up on that... I've had some personal and professional stuff take me away from this fun stuff for a bit... its coming... its just on pause at the moment.

Game been around since 1993 , couple weeks are not going to matter!
Thanks for doing this

Whaaaat...that's crazy! But also pretty neat.

Does it mess with the programming, though? Does a completed ramp shot require the ball to hit the right inlane switch to properly register any shots? Or is it good enough just to hit the ramp switches?

To clarify - does it confuse the game at all if the ball hits the switches in the order Rt. Ramp Enter --> Rt. Ramp Top --> Idol Exit

It is interesting...but I am not a fan of the reduced score you will get as a result. Hitting the right ramp should light hand of fate, but with this redesign it will not. Perhaps if it was made to drop the ball in the same place as the original it would work better.

The wireform going in and out of the ruins makes me think of the mine cart ride - very nicely done!! Does it slow the ball return compared to the old wireform?

In my opinion adding Cliffy's, air ball plastics (due to the drop targets), ricochets deflector, and plastic protectors are necessary. The most impactful upgrades are the color dmd, and pin sound board + new speakers. If you value quality sound and call outs than the pin sound board is a massive upgrade. The rest of the stuff is window dressing, but are big upgrades i.e. Korns planes, lost plastic, LED's, and game blades.

No.
We are adding a micro switch today to the end of the wire form to activate the hand of fate switch.
And the ball drops perfectly in front of the idol switch without triggering it.
Ill post video soon.

Thank you. Yes was thinking the same when making it. The mine cart ride!

Not really. Depends on how fast the ball is going around the right ramp.

Adding micro switch so hand of fate will always light up.
Thank you for the feedback

Nice job!!!! Could you possibly extend the ramp so the ball drops in the inner lane?

Ah, that should work as long as it is on the wire form and is tripped before it drops back down on the playfield.

I like how you have the ruins in the back raised, it adds some nice depth to it.

So I was just looking over the picture again ... where are the planes?

Riochet, can you add me to your mode start hole replacement scoop and protector? Thank you!

Looks good.

Odd looking for sure

It looks strange without the planes

Planes going in soon.

Ricochet
Please add me to the list for the deflector. Thank you

Good idea. Could have welded more rods to extend it. But to late now.

This game is so satisfying once you learn the shots. I haven't been able to crack the 500M default, but I'm getting close. This is my first pinball and I feel like I've played 1,000 games, but it's still fun

You chose wisely!

Ricochet.....
Add me as well for the mode start deflector.

@ricochet, Please add me to your mode start hole replacement scoop and protector!Thanx.

I need some help...what type of lamp or flasher goes here? The inserts are the "Lites Hand of Fate" located on either side of the lower playfield.
Is it a #555 or a type 89 flasher?
I can't find anything in the manual under lamps or flashers.
Thanks!

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Also, when I plugged a 555 bulb into those sockets, it stayed lit during attract mode, rather than pulsing on/off like the other lamps, which seemed strange.
thanks in advance!

Its a 555 for the "hand of fate" I use a flex bulb from Comet ... as for why it would stay lit I have no idea ...
Not close to the game to check

thanks for your help. BTW, according to another post, Lite Hands of Fate should stay lit during attract mode, so apparently the fact that they are staying lit isn't a problem.

To clarify ...
Correct bulb is 555
Wedge base flasher is a 906
Bayonet based flasher is a 89

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Yes, indeed. My mistake. Thanks!

IIRC the Hand Of Fate lights runs on the GI Circuit, but I could be totally off on that one. For me, those lights area always way brighter than the rest of the bulbs. Always found that kind of odd.

DMD panel removed , heading out tomorrow to have the "missing lights" CNC'd at a friend's shop ...

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Because of this reason I put in Comet 555 Wedge Flex Changing Color Slow. As a nice touch of magic to those 2 lights since they remain on quite a bit

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/1smd-flex?variant=12386967748652

Does the manual show what sizes and quantities of T-nuts the playfield requires? I am unable to find the page it would have this information because the CTRL+F Find Function doesn't work on the scanned manual PDF. Having T-nuts already in place will make it easier to hot-swap playfields.

Should be on the parts list?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/1267/Williams_1993_Indiana_Jones_The_Pinball_Adventure_Parts_List.txt

I just move the T-nuts as I go and replace the ones that are ruined.

I install with a little tool I make out of washers, felt and allen screws.

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Based on parts list:

8-32:
Playfield: 50
Speaker panel: 16

6-32:
9

is there 50 8/32 t-nuts???? Seems like a lot...But I havent done my restore yet.

tips on adjusting the narrow escape gate? I would say about 50% of my balls that eject from the idol pop back out into the outlane after making it to the sling rubber.

Yes, seems a lot. But...
~18 on top side,
10 on backboard,
~22 on bottom side.

strange, the gate only opens one direction. Is the gate a little sticky that it doesn't drop closed quickly enough?

If the ball has made it to the sling rubber, it sounds like the gate hasn't come down after the ball has gone through it. I'd check that the gate easily moves up and down, the should be little to no friction causing the gate to fall back down. Can you post a pic of your gate and maybe try taking a slo-mo video of a ball being ejected. Alternatively you may need to adjust the ball guide angle coming from the idol so that the ball doesn't hit the sling at that angle causing it to bounce back.

Just wanted to say thank you for the great idea - I had the same problem, with about 30-50% of clean shots flying off the ramp, often smashing straight into the biplane. I did not want to risk damage, especially being on the list for KornFreak's planes. I stuck a bit of neoprene in the same spot - not one single airball off the ramp in about two hours of playing today. I think the neoprene is a bit too thick, so the ball tends to rattle a bit, indicating that the ball path is affected too much, but the trade-off is well worth it. I'll keep experimenting with thinner foam.

On a totally different topic, I bought my IJ already partially - and tastefully - converted to LED. I keep considering going back to incandescents as I feel it would fit the retro theme well, and I also miss the soft glow and fade of bulbs. I'd probably keep the LEDs in the PoA and potentially other hard to reach places. Does anybody have any thoughts on this?

In the club since yesterday.
Cabinet is ok.
Playfield is very good except some little black cracks.
Anybodu an idea to fix this? Or is it better to keep it like this?

What about a plastic playfield protector on it? What arr the pros and contra's of such playfield protector?
Thanks

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Once upon a time, I converted my IJ to LEDs, and I HATED it. It was overly bright and sterile - it lost its warmth and life. I immediately swapped them back to incandescent - IJ just seems to need that natural filament glow, y'know?

That said - if you're going with LEDs, you need need need to get an LED OCD board. That will give you the natural fading back, and you have a lot of control on the overall levels. As for the LED bulbs, people swear by the Comets - warm white or sunlight? I can't remember which. Someone will have the specifics on that. Maybe someday, when I'm old and no longer want to dig to replace those hard-to-reach bulbs, I'll finally settle for LED.

I used minis when I put LEDs in my Indy so it wasn’t too overwhelming and warm whites for GIs. White minis for multicolored inserts and slow changers in hand of fate inserts

The “missing lights" have been found

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With the sunlight color you get the best of both worlds.

A little warmth without being yellow, and the brightness you really need.

And of course manditory LED OCD.

The default is 85% brightness and is near perfect without doing any adjustments.

The end result is that it looks like it did brand new with all #44 bulbs.

A lot if people have never seen an IJ with #44 bulbs. Its super bright and glows with heat!

It was standard for operators to swap out all the #44 bulbs for #47 to protect the game from itself.

But its way dimmer, but also much cooler temperatures.

Thanks for your answers. LED OCD definitely sounds interesting, if a little pricey (especially if combined with the GI OCD board). Is GI OCD also recommended? There's not much dimming going on in the GI, but it might look too bright compared to the dimmed inserts. Also, can the remaining incandescents in the flashers be ignored?

I always go total LED, using the 12v 5 LED flasher/towers for the #906 bulbs and 8 LED flashers for the #89 bulbs.

The GI OCD gives me control over the GI to dial it in if necessary, but ALWAYS get the LED OCD board. The brightness adjustment is one thing but the delay adjustment can be all the difference in the world.

Adding in LEDs without any sort of control system for them makes the game look harsh and unpleasant.