Thanks for the clarity. The pinsound station does all of these things except no mute button, so if you want everyone to hear as well you need to toggle the switch on the pinsound board itself with their station. Mute button is a nice touch but I can’t imagine being in a situation where I would want it to come through the speakers and my headphones at the same time. I’ll keep an eye on your version if you can integrate hanging the headphones I may switch over.

Its a much cleaner look.....now that being said I like the blue tooth headphone idea although its nice to have external volume control

Thanks for this information...one thought on the head phone hanging comment. I install pin gulps on all my pins so I just hang the headphones over those, and then plug into the game when I need them.

External volume can be controlled with the volume pot on the pinsound headphone station too. It controls the main sound or if Headphones are plugged it in adjusts the volume on those instead. On the drinks...my arcade was Vid based first...so I have these custom metal drink holders which stand on the ground in front of the video machine so I don't use pin gulps personally. Again, a matter of personal taste. All of these products are great, I'm happy we have lots of choices.
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very cool....so the pin sound headphone station is hardwired to the pin should board? Where do you route the wires under the cabinet? Do you have the blue tooth connected to the headphone station ?

Nervermind I see thats its connected to the headphone jack ! I like the idea if connecting one at the board if u can make it work?

I wonder why? was it a cost issue?

The station (both versions) connect using a Cat 5 (?) cable to the pinsound board, but there is also a 3.5mm female jack on the board too

You can connect the transmitter directly to the pinsound board if you like, but then how will you turn it on? I guess theoretically if you don't have the station and wanted it hidden fully, you would need to have the transmitter powered at all times and just stay on always...even if there are no headphones connected. I wish there was integration, but both pinsound and pinnovators chose to leave it out, which makes sense. Most people are fine with the wired headphones, and the ones that aren't often overreact to the sound delay because they aren't using LL headphones/transmitter. I would imagine that the bluetooth integration would require a low latency codec, but then reliance on the consumer to use the right headphones is tough.

I'm wondering if u connected that transmitter to the headphone jack (and left it on all the time) if the sound would only be directed to the headphones? U would need a way to switch from head phones to normal use.

Good question, but i think they thought of a solution. On the pinsound board, there is a toggle switch that mutes the speakers when headphones are plugged in, or simply not. You can have the speakers stay UNmuted and just raise the volume of the speakers using the buttons on the coin door.

A few reasons for not jumping on Bluetooth:
1. It takes some effort to support it! It would probably take over the majority of the support we give.
2. Latency in the headphones. The small time delay may bother some people. I believe there have been improvements in latency since I last investigated the topic.
3. What happens when you want to jump from game to game with the same BT headphones? The pairing time may be a pain.

We did try plugging in a BT transmitter directly to the output of our PinPAC panel and that worked reasonably well! It's easy enough to buy a plug in transmitter for our panels.

Be nice to see if this works or not. So if u don't connect your headphones via BT the default sound is directed through the speakers in the back back, and volume is controlled with the knob on the pin sound headphone station (or the volume on the coin door)? and once u connect your headphones its redirected?

No, the machine doesn't know if you have bluetooth headphones or not. If the transmitter is plugged in, the pinsound board thinks you have headphones in 100% of the time, so you need to have both speaker output and headphone output simultaneously as your selected option, and then simply don't connect the headphones to the transmitter and you would be fine. If you want to hear it through headphones but not through the external speakers, simply open the coin door and turn the volume to zero using the buttons inside the pin, not the station, and then connect your headphones to the transmitter...I think. I will check later to confirm.

I have the Stern Spike coin door headphone plate on my GB Prem and it works like this, so I may be mixing my machines here.

Thanks ....

Its nice to be able to zero out the volume without opening the coin door in order to change pinsound orchestrations.

The pinsound station does this whether the headphones are plugged in or not.

I hope you can add this feature, I dont like the wire that runs to the headphone station on the pinsound version, but it works.

I wonder what playfield angle PAPA has the IJ set in the Bowen Kerins tutorial video on YouTube?

There is no way he makes all those shots at 6.5 or 7.0. Even at just under 6.0, the right ramp shot from the left flipper must be absolutely perfect to make it up the ramp, or it rolls back frustratingly. I just re-built both flippers and am using the coils called for in the specs. Also, I am looking forward to ricochet’s mode hole device, but I am still getting over 85% retention by removing the bracket and installing foam on the surrounding metal. I would not say that my now-dialed in machine is easy or even slow, but it is also not nearly as frustrating as never being able to complete certain modes or use the POA only 1-2 times per game.

This is odd to me...Mine is at 6.5 and I crush that shot, the ball flies around the ramp. I don't think my flippers are using stronger coils but I admittedly don't know for sure.

Your going to really appreciate the new deflector design. I've been testing for over a month and its money from the right flipper (90%+). My game is currently setup at 6.5 and seems to play much faster than the video shown above (who knows maybe its just me). I'm gonna try @pinballreno suggestion at 6 over the weekend and see if I can make those ramp shots. He knows a lot about this game so maybe he's onto something.

Can wait for the mode scoop, I think my make percentage is less than 50% and I’ve tried all kinds of foam, rubber door gasket rubber you name it.

Will take game to another level!

Hello,,,,please put me down for 1 also....Looks great!

How do I know if I'm having a problem with my POA?

Mine seems to work fine...goes back and forth, but maybe It doesn't - Can't wait to hear back from you...thx

Hate that shot....My ball bounces back out 50% of the time....My Mode Start is more reliable than the center shot....so Frustrating

Ok for my own sanity here, since there seems to be different thoughts on what the pitch should be, I took a quick video of my gameplay.

Before you mock my abhorrent gameplay, note I'm sitting down and just wanted to take a quick video. I normally don't have so many brick shots.

The pitch is 6.5, and it definitely moves hella fast. My flippers have no issues though, so I don't know if my flippers have upgraded parts or what (based on the condition I received this machine in, this is doubtful, but anything is possible).

Mode start hole is currently the proto Z flector (will replace with Lao's Antidote) plus a pad on the underside of the plastic.

POA movement is at 2:59

If it moves back and forth smoothly, and u can hit all switches on the POA than your all good. On mine I had an opto problem on the board. Once I replaced that the POA has been flawless.

Moves back and forth fine, Have a hard time hitting all the switches but I think that's just me not timing it right

Yours plays like mine....Looks like your Z deflector works pretty well. The one I tested worked better than factory, but not nearly as good as the new design. The problem is reliability from the right flipper.....by the way game blades look great on IJ

Than your probably all good.

Z deflector only works well because of the pad I'm using under the plastic. Without the pad, the Z deflector works as you said, was probably about 40-50%. With a pad, I'm at 80-90%. I'm looking forward to Lao's Antidote simply because of 1) I miss the loud thud, and 2) I won't have to change pads every month or so anymore.

I have blades from KornFreak28 I just haven't installed them yet. They are uncut, so I need other blades to cut the proper shape before installing.

I didn't know Korn made game blades? Do you have a pic? u should get on his list for the planes...their interactive and a great look in the game. I've been testing the new design for a month and it works great. I configured my game as close to @Richochets as possible (same flipper coils, flipper rubbers, and pitch) with the goal of eliminating as many variables as possible. Mine has been very reliable so I'm pretty confident most will love it.

Differences in playfield pitch are subtle.

Half of a degree is not that much of a change really.

Looking at playfield geometry, the way the ball drops back to the flippers from various lanes and the over-all speed of play are factors.

So, 6.5 or 6.1 or 5.95 all play similarly, but with subtle differences.

Flipper fatigue on long games is an issue.
Flipper condition is an issue ( coils sleeve wear etc).
Waxed surface is an issue (fresh vs 400 games played etc).
Flippers bats aligned to the holes in the playfield are an issue.

Ball condition is an issue ( chrome vs high carbon, fresh vs tumbled/polished, super shiny vs regular etc).

Wall power is a big issue, the supplies are unregulated. 118v is very different than 125v. I have a little voltmeter stuck into the same circuit as my games that I can see when playing. My power fluctuates constantly throughout the day.

If your power is at 125 continuously then, I would pitch the game at 6.5. If its at 118, I would pitch it at 6 degrees.

Dialling in a game takes a bit of time. Every location is different

In my opinion (for what its worth) the game plays best, with all things considered, starting at around 6 degrees.

I'm in the next group for his planes! Been on the list since I got my machine 6 months ago.

Thanks...is that the mirrored CPR back glass? Looks nice

I have this backglass too...it is EPIC!!!!!

Yes it is.. and yes it does... in fact I think it looks even better when the game is off. I know that sounds weird.

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It looks great on or off. It's hard to capture the beauty of it through a photograph when the game is on. The mirrored backglass looks like it would look if it was released today as an LE pin IMO. A must have to upgrade the look of the pin.

I need a NOS speaker plastic. Mine has some wear that bugs me.

There are repros our there but I’m skeptical they will be as good as the original.

Over the DMD yes? I have some minor wear there, shows its age when looking up close. I have not found a replacement yet either.

Almost done ... small adjustments, dialing in and good for another 27 years

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Looks good, what are you lighting rope bridge up with?

The 3 PCB light board behind !

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I need a template for that.

Does any one have a scan or a used one i could borrow?

Or a mechanical drawing with measurements?

I have a couple of those boards, one is led. But no template to cut the slot!

Did you have to trim the glass? the mirrored glass I got, doesn’t fit.

On the discussion of templates, I would love the get the template for the Dmd panel to cut the missing lights under the Dmd

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Nope it fit just fine. I am using metal lift channel and metal H channel on the speaker board.

Mine is about 2/10 to big. I’ll try using the metal. I really don’t want to try and trim the glass.

Thank you

I know a guy local to me who has a Lost plastic and original Pinbits kits for lighting it along with the speaker DMD panel and those kits have all the wiring & templates. I was going to buy those from him for my game but found another IJ which had all of that stuff factory installed. I can check to see if he still has everything so if anyone is interested, shoot me a PM.

I’m using the stock plastic channel with mine and it fit perfect as well.