(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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There are 11,589 posts in this topic. You are on page 139 of 232.
#6901 3 years ago

@Ricochet, please put me on your list too! I get 7 out of 10 kick-outs each time, very frustrating. Thank you.

#6902 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Ricochet, please put me on your list too! I get 7 out of 10 kick-outs each time, very frustrating. Thank you.

u won't be disappointed....changes how u play and experience the game....he did a great job

#6903 3 years ago

Deflector update:

Sorry folks... I've been interrupted for a little bit with some personal issues (not a big deal) but they are consuming my free time.

I'm up to date on my "interested" list. I've quite a bit of work to do... good to see demand is strong.

Thanks for your patience.

#6904 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Deflector update:
Sorry folks... I've been interrupted for a little bit with some personal issues (not a big deal) but they are consuming my free time.
I'm up to date on my "interested" list. I've quite a bit of work to do... good to see demand is strong.
Thanks for your patience.

No worries! Just so I understand, the added back securing spot is a whole separate piece of metal, or they're coming one big piece?

#6905 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

No worries! Just so I understand, the added back securing spot is a whole separate piece of metal, or they're coming one big piece?

Its a two piece system.

- Remove all your plastics/protectors
- Put scoop in place, align mounting holes to the threaded holes in the two posts at the entrance of the mode saucer.
- Install lid on top of the scoop, aligning the two holes with the same holes of the scoop.
- Attach back of lid to the playfield in the existing holes for the original deflector plate.
- Install your plastic
- Attach plastic, lid and scoop to the posts with screws provided.

The tab on the lid, rides along the back of the scoop... it holds the scoop down and provides impact reinforcement.

#6906 3 years ago

Was able to find some time for myself today ... finished the final design on the lid. I was way off on my original one, not sure what the heck I was thinking.... oh well. I needed to make sure there was cut-out for the optic module that sits in the cavity. I also elongated the mounting holes to accommodate for error.

Sent to the laser cutter tonight

I realize you guys are probably sick of this... just make this already!!!! I'm going as fast as I can ... and it needs to be the best it can be.

newlid (resized).pngnewlid (resized).png

#6907 3 years ago

I’m no industrial designer and I can’t say I know the specifics of your laser cutting process, but I’m curious what holds the new piece back from combining the two pieces and adding the stock deflector mount with the new conical mode scoop? Basically having the new conical scoop have the stock style attachment with the added post attachments included in your design?

#6908 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I’m no industrial designer and I can’t say I know the specifics of your laser cutting process, but I’m curious what holds the new piece back from combining the two pieces and adding the stock deflector mount with the new conical mode scoop? Basically having the new conical scoop have the stock style attachment with the added post attachments included in your design?

I'm not sure I completely understand your question.

Are you asking why is it two pieces and not one?

#6909 3 years ago

I made the mistake of changing some LED’s in my Indiana Jones with the power on and now I have a short to ground in columns 1 through 8. Don’t know if I bumped in to something and shorted something. Checked for wires touching and couldn’t find anything. Anyone have any similar problems?

#6910 3 years ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I made the mistake of changing some LED’s in my Indiana Jones with the power on and now I have a short to ground in columns 1 through 8. Don’t know if I bumped in to something and shorted something. Checked for wires touching and couldn’t find anything. Anyone have any similar problems?

I had something similar happen and I ended up blowing the u20 chip that had to be resoldered on. Good luck

#6911 3 years ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I made the mistake of changing some LED’s in my Indiana Jones with the power on and now I have a short to ground in columns 1 through 8. Don’t know if I bumped in to something and shorted something. Checked for wires touching and couldn’t find anything. Anyone have any similar problems?

I did that on my Indy 500 (live and learn) and the U20 chip fried. On I500 it’s socketed, so ordered, replaced, and done. If that’s the issue and it’s a soldered chip, I heard that you can get a socket put on while an expert is in there fixing.

#6912 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I did that on my Indy 500 (live and learn) and the U20 chip fried. On I500 it’s socketed, so ordered, replaced, and done. If that’s the issue and it’s a soldered chip, I heard that you can get a socket put on while an expert is in there fixing.

I just checked my board and the U20 chip is socketed thankfully! Ordering a chip from pinball life and they recommend changing the chip which is position U14 at the same time. Apparently that is a common failure chip as well. That one is not socketed and needs to be soldered. Ordering both and hope all gets solved! Thanks!

#6913 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Old POA motors, opto boards and motor control boards can pull a bit more power than the spec.
They might be 30 years old.

Update to my POA/F116 problem: I changed out the POA motor control board, which I ordered from Australia (Pinball Haus), to no avail. I finally got around to changing out the actual motor today (from Marcos, just down the road from me in S.C.), and it now works like a champ! You were right about this one, @pinballinreno! I also raised the front to legs about 3 turns each to flatten the play field to just under 60-degrees. I can now back-hand both ramps from the same-side flippers! The first game out, I made the Steal the Stones challenge for the first time ever, and got 2 of the Three Challenges for the first time ever. I really have the game dialed in now, finally, after about 2 months of mediocre game play. It is so much better now that it plays as designed! I still love my DESW (my first pin since childhood, when we had and old Williams Star Pool), but IJ is a much better game.

#6914 3 years ago

Ricochet: please add me to the list as well.

#6915 3 years ago
Quoted from Nomanimdave:

Update to my POA/F116 problem: I changed out the POA motor control board, which I ordered from Australia (Pinball Haus), to no avail. I finally got around to changing out the actual motor today (from Marcos, just down the road from me in S.C.), and it now works like a champ! You were right about this one, pinballinreno! I also raised the front to legs about 3 turns each to flatten the play field to just under 60-degrees. I can now back-hand both ramps from the same-side flippers! The first game out, I made the Steal the Stones challenge for the first time ever, and got 2 of the Three Challenges for the first time ever. I really have the game dialed in now, finally, after about 2 months of mediocre game play. It is so much better now that it plays as designed! I still love my DESW (my first pin since childhood, when we had and old Williams Star Pool), but IJ is a much better game.

Im glad you got it sorted out.

Every IJ i have had, needed a POA motor, POA opto board, motor controller board, opto board and trifurcons for the main GI connector as well as the backbox GI connectors.

And always the rotor lock plastic is trashed lol.

After a complete cleaning/waxing/new white rubbers and setting the pitch to 5.9 to 6.0 degrees, the games play perfectly.

Setting the game perfectly level horizintally really helps the POA.

But i find that having the game slightly tilted/banked down to the left by one tenth of a degree helps with the slow ball return from the pop bumpers.

These repairs are pretty fast and easy, but necessary for stability.

Changing out all of the bulbs for sunlight frosted LEDs and 5smd flashers really makes the game POP! I use the 8smd for the #89 bulbs.

LEDOCD and GIOCD are wonderful additions and in my opinion are almost manditory to make the game lighting perfect.

IJ is an amazing game and will last for many years to come.

#6916 3 years ago

Is GIOCD makes sense? I see no GI dimming in IJ.

#6917 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im glad you got it sorted out.

After a complete cleaning/waxing/new white rubbers and setting the pitch to 5.9 to 6.0 degrees, the games play perfectly.

I'm sorry but I don't understand this. On my machine at 6.0, the game would be painfully slow. At 6.5, I can hit every shot no problem and the game moves nice and swiftly. Perhaps your flipper strength is too low? The standard for pins to my knowledge is 6.5, so I'm having trouble with your 6.0 recommendation here.

#6918 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is GIOCD makes sense? I see no GI dimming in IJ.

Its to eliminate flicker and to dim the GI slightly. I have mine set at 85% brightness.

I agree that its not altogether necessary, but the slightly dimmer GI washes out the color a lot less.

And is a bit easier on the eyes.

It might be a luxury, but on a $7500-$8500 game, i think one should have it.

#6919 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I'm sorry but I don't understand this. On my machine at 6.0, the game would be painfully slow. At 6.5, I can hit every shot no problem and the game moves nice and swiftly. Perhaps your flipper strength is too low? The standard for pins to my knowledge is 6.5, so I'm having trouble with your 6.0 recommendation here.

Certainly you can raise the pitch to 7.1 or 7.5 degrees and put in the hotter flipper coils, remove the outlane posts etc. many people and operators do.

It makes for a very challenging game!

But i have had my IJ games set from 5.5 to 7.5 degrees and tested in .1 increments over a long time.

Over-all I believe the game plays best at about 6 degrees with standard flipper coils and has good flow for the average player.

Less mode start and right ramp rejects and the POA is more managable. Flipper fade on long games is less noticable.

Less wear and tear on the drop targets, less captive ball rejects.

You are probably an amazing player! But not everyone is a great player, But everyone wants to have fun.

#6920 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I'm not sure I completely understand your question.
Are you asking why is it two pieces and not one?

Yeah, that is what I'm getting at. Seems like it wouldn't be impossible to mold that all into one piece?

#6921 3 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Yeah, that is what I'm getting at. Seems like it wouldn't be impossible to mold that all into one piece?

It’s impossible if you are cutting it from flat stock and bending it. You’ve two different planes intersecting.

To make it one piece ... it would need to be welded. I’m no welder

#6922 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It’s impossible if you are cutting it from flat stock and bending it. You’ve two different planes intersecting.
To make it one piece ... it would need to be welded. I’m no welder

It would have to be press molded over a $5000 set of dies, this can fatigue/stretch the steel and it might have to be heat treated afterwards.

Welds have proven to not hold up over time.

Everything on a pinball machine gets ripped to shreds lol.

I really like the 2 piece solution. It allows a little "give" on the defector to absorb inertia as well as lock down the rear for stability.

I think for our purposes you are doing really well.

#6923 3 years ago
Quoted from Nomanimdave:

Update to my POA/F116 problem: I changed out the POA motor control board, which I ordered from Australia (Pinball Haus), to no avail. I finally got around to changing out the actual motor today (from Marcos, just down the road from me in S.C.), and it now works like a champ! You were right about this one, pinballinreno! I also raised the front to legs about 3 turns each to flatten the play field to just under 60-degrees. I can now back-hand both ramps from the same-side flippers! The first game out, I made the Steal the Stones challenge for the first time ever, and got 2 of the Three Challenges for the first time ever. I really have the game dialed in now, finally, after about 2 months of mediocre game play. It is so much better now that it plays as designed! I still love my DESW (my first pin since childhood, when we had and old Williams Star Pool), but IJ is a much better game.

First day after getting the machine dialed in and fixing the POA motor. Missed the $1 B bonus by 5 shots!

1BAD7CFF-8D49-428A-A55E-3225E1224300 (resized).jpeg1BAD7CFF-8D49-428A-A55E-3225E1224300 (resized).jpeg
#6924 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Certainly you can raise the pitch to 7.1 or 7.5 degrees and put in the hotter flipper coils, many people do.
It makes for a very challenging game!
But i have had my IJ games set from 5.5 to 7.5 degrees and tested in .1 increments over a long time.
Over-all I believe the game plays best at about 6 degrees with standard flipper coils and has good flow for the average player.
Less mode start and right ramp rejects and the POA is more managable. Flipper fade on long games is less noticable.
Less wear and tear on the drop targets, less captive ball rejects.
You are probably an amazing player! But not everyone is a great player, But everyone wants to have fun.

I am far from an amazing player I assure you, but I also don't believe you should be able to hit the right ramp from a standstill with the right flipper in this game. But as you said, if it makes it more fun for the average player then go for it, at 6.0 you will see many more billion point games as it will become much much easier. I have my Indy next to my Ghostbusters which is inherently fast, and I've been playing the new Turtles quite a bit too which is even faster. At 6.5, Indy is still slower than these other two (albeit not by much).

#6925 3 years ago
Quoted from Nomanimdave:

First day after getting the machine dialed in and fixing the POA motor. Missed the $1 B bonus by 5 shots!
[quoted image]

Nice score! I recently missed the 1B point award by only two shots, and that's after having owned the machine for almost two decades. I've gotten close a few times, but I've never actually gotten it.
The key is preventing those mode hole bounce-outs. That's what kept it so elusive for so many years. After @ricochet's new mode hole fix, I expect we'll be seeing that 1B award being posted here left and right. We'll all be like, "YAWN. Another billion? I restart the game if I don't get Eternal Life Multiball on my first ball."

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#6926 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I am far from an amazing player I assure you, but I also don't believe you should be able to hit the right ramp from a standstill with the right flipper in this game. But as you said, if it makes it more fun for the average player then go for it, at 6.0 you will see many more billion point games as it will become much much easier. I have my Indy next to my Ghostbusters which is inherently fast, and I've been playing the new Turtles quite a bit too which is even faster. At 6.5, Indy is still slower than these other two (albeit not by much).

I think what makes this game challenging is hitting the ramps consistently. I have mine setup at 6.5 and I can't back hand either ramp. I was going to lower mine to 6.1 just to see how it plays. If u can back hand both those ramps + slow down the POA it clearly makes the game easier to play. I was gonna try it on mine and see what happens.

#6927 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I think what makes this game challenging is hitting the ramps consistently. I have mine setup at 6.5 and I can't back hand either ramp.

Yes me too here, I didn't say left flipper to left ramp because once in a blue moon I can get it up that left ramp from a standstill, but in reality I don't ever try that shot on my machine.

Every machine probably feels a little different (absent the pitch), and they are all fine as long as the owner is happy in home-use situations. I personally love the challenge of the game, and as I think I said in an earlier post, the learning curve for this game is long...I am still learning new strategies and honing my shot accuracy. My mode hole is about 80-90% stick at the moment, it is set at 6.5, POA is aligned and works great, and my high score is 875m after 6 months of WFH and slowly going up.

IJ is the best pin ever....

#6928 3 years ago

My favorite shot is the captive ball ... I love the feel of it both when collecting the treasure and progressing through the castle.

What’s yours ???

#6929 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My favorite shot is the captive ball ... I love the feel of it both when collecting the treasure and progressing through the castle.
What’s yours ???

Ummm...Hurry up!

#6930 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Ummm...Hurry up!

Hurry up definitely has a great ending... sounds awesome with PinSound !

#6931 3 years ago

Indy has a lot of shots that feel good. The mode hole in my game sticks 90%+ so I started to find the game a little easy. Well, I opened up those outlanes and it is a brute now. I can't even come close to my old scores or starting all the modes now. Keeps me coming back for more. It is such a fun game with great theme integration. Oh yeah, I have a pinsound and that makes it even better.

#6932 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My favorite shot is the captive ball ... I love the feel of it both when collecting the treasure and progressing through the castle.
What’s yours ???

I like pounding that captive ball on super jack pots

#6933 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My favorite shot is the captive ball ... I love the feel of it both when collecting the treasure and progressing through the castle.
What’s yours ???

Hitting that captive ball and having your ball fire back at you on the rebound is a great feeling - only once got the fish of tayles

A great game when dialed in ... still chasing that elusive 1B

#6934 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I am far from an amazing player I assure you, but I also don't believe you should be able to hit the right ramp from a standstill with the right flipper in this game. But as you said, if it makes it more fun for the average player then go for it, at 6.0 you will see many more billion point games as it will become much much easier. I have my Indy next to my Ghostbusters which is inherently fast, and I've been playing the new Turtles quite a bit too which is even faster. At 6.5, Indy is still slower than these other two (albeit not by much).

For a bit of challenge try removing the outlane posts!

#6935 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For a bit of challenge try removing the outlane posts!

Slow down now...I'm not looking for a painful challenge, I still haven't even broken a billion!

#6936 3 years ago

So I figured I would share this info in case anyone is interested...my home arcade is in the garage and it is below the master bedroom. In the evenings if I want to play my machines I need to use headphones. With the Pinsound + board I also got the headphone station and keep a good pair of headphones there for when needed.

The problem is I hate visible wires. They drive me bonkers. So I looked into wireless headphones and found a transmitter and headphone combo I like that has no noticeable delay at all. Both the transmitter used and the headphones used must have the aptX LL (low latency) codec or there will be significant delay (1-2 seconds) which is unacceptable. Most of the big name headphones don't bother with this special codec, I assume because most people are just listening to music or talking on the phone and don't need low latency. So be sure to get headphones that have this exact codec...and when paired with a transmitter that has this codec it is a nice benefit to not have wires anywhere. I just walk from machine to machine plugging in the transmitter.

I believe the Indy Pinsound + board also has a headphone jack on the pcb itself if you don't have the headphone station.

Headphones I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VLWPXF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Transmitter used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTFRKQM/ref=dp_prsubs_1

#6937 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

So I figured I would share this info in case anyone is interested...my home arcade is in the garage and it is below the master bedroom. In the evenings if I want to play my machines I need to use headphones. With the Pinsound + board I also got the headphone station and keep a good pair of headphones there for when needed.
The problem is I hate visible wires. They drive me bonkers. So I looked into wireless headphones and found a transmitter and headphone combo I like that has no noticeable delay. Both the transmitter used and the headphones used must have the aptX LL (low latency) codec or there will be significant delay. Most of the big name headphones don't bother with this codec, because most people are just listening to music or talking on the phone. So be sure to get headphones that have this codec...and when paired with the transmitter it is a nice benefit to not have wires anywhere. I just walk from machine to machine plugging in the transmitter.
Headphones I bought:
amazon.com link »
Transmitter used:
amazon.com link »

So does that transmitter plug directly into the PinSound + board?

#6938 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So does that transmitter plug directly into the PinSound + board?

It can, yes, but I imagine it would be inconvenient to access. I have the Pinsound headphone station which plugs into the sound board, and I just go into that since it is easy access. Alternatively if you wanted to make an inexpensive option you could always get a male to female audio cable to plug directly into the sound board to kind of use as an extension under the playfield up to the coin door and then plug the transmitter into that.

https://www.pinsound.org/headphones-station/

#6940 3 years ago

Pinnovators headphone set up (at least mine) doesn't appear to be compatible with the Pinsound board (Pinsound connector spacing is different than org sound board). I brought this up to Pinnovators, they will most likely come up with a solution.

#6941 3 years ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

Pinnovators headphone set up (at least mine) doesn't appear to be compatible with the Pinsound board (Pinsound connector spacing is different than org sound board). I brought this up to Pinnovators, they will most likely come up with a solution.

When did you go through this discovery with them? Recently?

#6942 3 years ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

Pinnovators headphone set up (at least mine) doesn't appear to be compatible with the Pinsound board (Pinsound connector spacing is different than org sound board). I brought this up to Pinnovators, they will most likely come up with a solution.

I thought I'd chime in and hopefully clarify. We have two headphone kits compatible with Indiana Jones.

For a NON PinSound machine our PinPAC 1 DCS Headphone kit will work. https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/indiana-jones-the-pinball-adventure/products/pinpac-1-williams-dcs-systems

For a machine WITH a PinSound board then you want our PinPAC 8 PinSound Headphone kit https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/indiana-jones-the-pinball-adventure/products/pinpac-1-williams-dcs-systems

tilt-master - We came out with our PinSound compatible kit in 2018 I believe. If for some reason you have the PinSound compatible one and it's not working please message me so I can help you out.

Ricochet - We guarantee everything we sell. If you buy it and are not happy, we will refund you. No problem!

I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

~Sandra

P.S. If anyone has one of our older kits and wants to upgrade to the PinSound compatible one, just message me. The cost would be $35 plus shipping.

#6943 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

When did you go through this discovery with them? Recently?

I have used their products on multiple machines, and they have always been great.

#6944 3 years ago
Quoted from SGSA:

I thought I'd chime in and hopefully clarify. We have two headphone kits compatible with Indiana Jones.
For a NON PinSound machine our PinPAC 1 DCS Headphone kit will work. https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/indiana-jones-the-pinball-adventure/products/pinpac-1-williams-dcs-systems
For a machine WITH a PinSound board then you want our PinPAC 8 PinSound Headphone kit https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/indiana-jones-the-pinball-adventure/products/pinpac-1-williams-dcs-systems
tilt-master - We came out with our PinSound compatible kit in 2018 I believe. If for some reason you have the PinSound compatible one and it's not working please message me so I can help you out.
ricochet - We guarantee everything we sell. If you buy it and are not happy, we will refund you. No problem!
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
~Sandra
P.S. If anyone has one of our older kits and wants to upgrade to the PinSound compatible one, just message me. The cost would be $35 plus shipping.

Thank you Sandra. You guys are top notch!

#6945 3 years ago

$50 more than the pinsound product and no place to hang your headphones? What’s the benefit of this?

#6946 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

$50 more than the pinsound product and no place to hang your headphones? What’s the benefit of this?

I like the integration of it. Hanging the headphones isn’t a deal breaker for me.

#6947 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I like the integration of it. Hanging the headphones isn’t a deal breaker for me.

Maybe I’m missing something but what integration? From what I’m reading they integrate the same way, same features and connectors. One is on the Coin door and one is on the leg, is this the only difference?

#6948 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Maybe I’m missing something but what integration? From what I’m reading they integrate the same way, same features and connectors. One is on the Coin door and one is on the leg, is this the only difference?

That is it for me... personal taste. I like the aesthetic on the coin door.

#6949 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Maybe I’m missing something but what integration? From what I’m reading they integrate the same way, same features and connectors. One is on the Coin door and one is on the leg, is this the only difference?

For many it boils down to which look you prefer and which features you want.

With the Pinnovators kit you have a bit more when it comes to choice when playing. As an example...

Example 1 - You are playing with another player(s) but still want to use headphones so you can focus on the game/callouts. With our kit you can be wearing your headphones and the other player(s) can still hear gameplay.

Example 2 - You are using headphones for the purpose of not disturbing others, no problem, just mute the machine with the mute switch on the panel and you can still hear game play from the headphones.

Also, with many of our kits (not this one) you can adjust the system volume as well. When the headphones are plugged in and even when they aren't. We are currently working on adding that feature to our kits that are compatible with Williams/Bally. It's available on our kits compatible with Stern, Spooky & American Pinball.

As far as no place to hang the headphones, we are also working on that

#6950 3 years ago

Well whichever headphone station you choose, remember:

- for WIRELESS, you need a transmitter and headphones that have the aptX LL codec

- for WIRED, you can’t use headphones that are meant to go with a phone. In other words, if you have headphones that are meant to be integrated with an iPhone it WILL NOT WORK with the pinsound board. I get massive interference and feedback when using my Bose noise cancelling set (both of them) that I normally use in travel. Headphones need to not have the controls that make the connector have the extra ring around it.

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Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
Wanted
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
2step’s shop
Toys/Add-ons
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
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