I tried following each wire, but I guess I'll need to go further in depth. I'll keep checking, but didn't see anything.

Schematic helps on this.

That's what I meant, I viewed the manual and checked each wire that the optos go to and plugs for both the backbox and boards. But I must be missing it. I'll have to dig deeper and look closer.

If it works and then doesnt work after a couple power fails, its usually connection failure or a bad board.

Maybe use a credit card edge and smash down the IDC wires.

One could be loose.

OK I'll try that, I have an idc tool and I'll try it. It's just strange to me that it happened suddenly. But I guess it only takes a little movement to loosen a wire.

Mode Hole Deflector Update:

I'm moving on from Z's and V's... I've tested enough to prove that there just isn't enough vertical space and not enough setback adjustment range (due to hole locations) that can make it work consistently. Thats a bit of a bummer... these were simple to make... but oh well.

I'm moving on to U's and other curved designs. I've got two more in the hopper... these next two will serve dual purpose as they will (attempt to) solve the hole shot problem AND simultaneously serve as a plastic protector for the mode hole plastic

Trying to figure out why j118 plug is now causing grounding issues. When I unplug it, I have no grounding problems. But when it's plugged in I get all rows and columns except for the bottom row and dedicated switches having ground problems. I assume this is part of my opto issue I am having. These issues are driving me crazy.
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Here is the switch matrix with J118 plugged in. Any ideas? I've followed the wires and they don't seem to be loose or damaged at all. With J118 unplugged, all switches are fine, but the optos don't work.

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You need to get a voltmeter on your 12VDC supply to see what the heck is going on. I would disconnect all of the power connectors on each of your optic boards under the playfield and reconnect J118 to try and isolate where this is happening. Reconnect each opto board until you see this matrix issue. 12VDC is used as the signal voltage for the switch matrix.

Finally figured it out... I don't know if a power surge happened or what... but 3 boards had sockets go bad. 10 opto board, ball trough receiver board, and the 3 switch opto for the idol. All the chips in each of them failed. What a crazy thing to happen...

I replaced the switch with a new one hoping this would be fixed with no luck. Any other ideas or suggestions how to trouble shoot or fix this?

Remove all the balls and then go into switch test - drop a ball in the shooter lane (check that only one switch is activated), then drop the balls into the trough one at a time and check the correct trough switch is activated. See if there are any issues??

Question: i have Pinsound on my IJ and lately, mid-game, the sound has been "shorting" out . No sound. No fun. anybody else have this happen or does anyone know of a solution. i am wondering if i have overloaded a power supply

This happened to me once the other day for the first time....I've been monitoring it and waiting for it to happen again. I am hoping it was a one time issue.

Your self diagnosis file should tell you the power range that is being sent to the PCB. Mine is around 4.8V which seemed a little low to me but is in the acceptable range per PinSound

thanks

self diagnosis file - i will see if i can find that

It will be on the USB. It will be obvious and you can open with Notepad if it doesn’t open automatically.

Here is a recent test of mine after it happened, nothing out of the ordinary. I do have 4 mixes on mine so who knows. Let us know your results.

PINSOUND FIRMWARE VERSION
------------------
20.06.2

POWER SUPPLIES
------------------
5V MEASURED: 4817mV (expected range: 4700mV - 5100mV)
[lowest 5V measured: 4755mV / highest 5V measured: 4877mV]

AMPLIFIER VOLTAGE MEASURED: 15883mV (expected range: 11000mV - 26000mV)
[lowest amplifier voltage measured: 15210mV / highest amplification voltage measured: 16065mV]

Wall power affects pinsound as well as a long USB cable on the usb stick that people use to access it from the coin door.

But wall power is an issue for some of us.

I've been searching online for an airball plastic for above the 3 drop targets. Anyone know of a good place to get one?

Pinsider Davi sells one. It's a full replacement of the raise jackpot plastic, with a transparent extension above the drop targets.

Edit - link to post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service/page/18#post-4705422

Alright folks, almost done just waiting for the powdercoating place to tell me the legs and hardware are done so I can finishthe artwork. The last thing I need are pics of side blades though, apparently there are a lot of choices and i would love to see them and where you bought them!

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Happened to me multiple times. After cooling down and restart the issue resolved. I contacted Nicolas from pinsound. I have a pinsound v1.4. So an older one. He said to remove D25 from the board. So I did. Seems ok now. Last game night no issues. But still testing this.

Interesting. Mine hasn't done it since, but to be honest I haven't put the machine through some hard work testing yet (game after game after game to heat it up). The usb dongle gets hot as hell when running even on the newest version that I have, so I will keep this in mind. D25...what board is this located on, the Pinsound + board?

This fix was only for v1.4 board not the plus board. Still I would contact Nicolas before doing anything. He will point out what to do if needed.

Just joined the club this weekend! Going to be doing some basic cleaning and shopping of my game, but having trouble sourcing ramp entrance metal flaps. Any clues?

I've never thought about buying these individually - I've only seen them as part of the entire ramp assembly. Probably because they are riveted on.

That said, it appears Pinbits has them (but currently sold out):
https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&sort=20a&page=2

On the laps of reassembly on my Indy project. One question about shooter lane repair- I've got on divot, i know fill it and sand it, but was wanting recommendations for paint/stain/lacquers to make the spot blend with the rest of the shooter lane

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Shooter lane is a little rough.

Id just sand it out completely and fill the dent and reclear with 2PAC.

Is 2pac something that will blend the wood color? I'm trying to get it uniform. Is that something I can get a Lowe's ? or online? Thank you

2PAC

2 part automotive clear coat.

Read Vid's guide on playfield restoration, its really good.

Its been a long year and a half of restoring this in the tiny amount of free time I get. It came in filled with spider webs, water damage, and fried boards. I had never shopped a pin before, let alone restored one, but I wanted to learn. I'll never be all the way finished, (pinsound, sideblades, shaker motor, topper, etc etc etc to do) but I'm happy with the 99 percent complete result. Here are some after and before photos, and I'm looking forward to next summer's project.

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Looks great....I really like the black powder coated trim....

Adam's gold, it's black with gold specks. I'm already doing LOTR in gold so wanted something different, amd i like that the legs blend with the pillars on the corners

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Nice....I will say that upgrading the sound package is awesome on IJ....pin sound + board with new speakers is a really nice upgrade

Any suggestions on speaker set?

It all comes as a set from pinsound.

I like flipper fidelity with the stereo cable. They have a set for pinsound.

I typically DIY my speakers for a pinsound setup:

Woofer : ($19.13)
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-208-4-8-oem-woofer-4-ohm--290-310

Backbox: ($7.69 each)
https://www.parts-express.com/grs-5sbm1-8-5-1-4-sealed-back-midrange-with-1-voice-coil-8-ohm--292-431

Out of stock on the sub, doesnt come with adapter plate or pinsound cables.

But, the speakers are an excellent price!

Depending on how handy you are, the wiring harness is a .90c molex connector, $3 of speaker wire, and about 10 minutes of time.

I bought the Flipper Fidelity set for the PinSound board.....It sounds fin....I hear pin woofer stuff is great

Finally have my IJ up and running properly with a couple little tweaks to switches that need done. Just have two issues that happen rarely... During gameplay, all the sudden the sound gets extremely loud, to the point where I have to power off the game. Once I turn it back on, it is back to normal. This doesn't happen often and there doesn't seem to be anything particular that causes it.

Also, during gameplay sometimes during the 2 ball multiball from hitting the drop target, I get a third ball that shoots out into play. I have checked the trough to make sure each opto is working correctly by placing one ball at a time into the trough. It notices each individual ball properly. Any idea what could be causing this?

There was one of these on location near me that had this same problem. Curious to hear what the solution is/was.

Sounds like (no pun intended) the sound board needs to be repaired. Had similar situation with my TZ. Board sent out for repair, no issues since.

I don't know about the "3rd ball" issue, but your audio problem is a bug in earlier versions of the software. You know what you're running? Highly recommend updating to game ROM L-7 and sound ROM L-3.

Thanks, sound rom is L-2, so I will try updating to L-3 to see if that solves it.

Extra balls is sometimes attributed to a weak or poorly adjusted shooter lane switch.

Everyone, just let me find my balls, for God's sakes. 1, 2, and 3. Okay, I'm okay, I'm okay.

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I finally got my last IJ playing!

I need a used translite and maybe a used repaintable apron.

They don't have to be perfect.

I posted want ads

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-indiana-jones-translite-williams

Let me know if you have any left over parts.

Thanks!

... still progressing with the deflector

... just not letting anything out until I’m convinced.