(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 11,590 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by zimzam
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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There are 11,590 posts in this topic. You are on page 129 of 232.
#6401 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Do these older play fields typically have sunken inserts?

Yes, worse yet they can be loose and have to be epoxied in.

#6402 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Interesting! I haven't received mine yet...once I do I'll test away.

Thanks, no worries and I am not discouraged one bit! I'm happy to find failures. This needs to be a rock solid fix for me to officially release it. I won't accept "somewhat better" or having to modify it to make it work. Mine works fantastic so at this point I've not yet given up on it and I am very curious as to the consistency of this design.

I've a new design at the laser cutter already. Depending upon the consistency of the remaining testers... I will be sending this one to the same group of testers out as soon as I can verify it on my machine.

Thanks to all whom are helping me!

#6403 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Did you actually find someone whose selling one? Be pretty cool to find a NIB NOS populated play field....

I do indeed know of one!!!

#6404 3 years ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

I do indeed know of one!!!

Very cool! How much is he asking? I wonder if its a prototype or sample play field?

#6405 3 years ago

I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.

15964559521495033910062965230006 (resized).jpg15964559521495033910062965230006 (resized).jpg
#6406 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.
[quoted image]

This is true. Repro sets are brighter.
(Nothing to do with films, but the selected orange paint).

#6407 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.
[quoted image]

Honestly, you should be using that piece that Davi makes in place of that Raise Jackpot plastic since it has a nice built in air deflector. The other piece you are referencing is pretty hidden...that one wouldn't bother me as much to use as is, but I understand your concern.

#6408 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.
[quoted image]

Wow thats really far off .... Davi makes a great plastic for the jack pot area

#6409 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.
[quoted image]

Always been a problem. My right slingshot plastic is original, the left is a repro from 15 years ago. The difference in colour tone is obvious when you see them together, which is always. Matching inks and printing processes in a machine like this seems to be damn near impossible, for some reason.

But it could be worse. I encourage you to look up the saga of the WH20 topper on these forums for a fascinating look at how wrong reproductions can actually go.

#6410 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Always been a problem. My right slingshot plastic is original, the left is a repro from 15 years ago. The difference in colour tone is obvious when you see them together, which is always. Matching inks and printing processes in a machine like this seems to be damn near impossible, for some reason.
But it could be worse. I encourage you to look up the saga of the WH20 topper on these forums for a fascinating look at how wrong reproductions can actually go.

Yeah when I restored my Indy... it bugged me for like... a microsecond. Once I replaced everything... it just looked so damned good that it became irrelevant... really quick.

#6411 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah when I restored my Indy... it bugged me for like... a microsecond. Once I replaced everything... it just looked so damned good that it became irrelevant... really quick.

I have this mental problem that prevents me from replacing original parts unless they're actually broken. "They don't match, but that one's ORIGINAL," I justify to myself.

If I'd just replace them at the same time, it would look great and I'd never think about it again. That said...if anyone has a pristine original left slingshot laying around in their unused parts, if be happy to take it off your hands!

#6412 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Always been a problem. My right slingshot plastic is original, the left is a repro from 15 years ago. The difference in colour tone is obvious when you see them together, which is always. Matching inks and printing processes in a machine like this seems to be damn near impossible, for some reason.
But it could be worse. I encourage you to look up the saga of the WH20 topper on these forums for a fascinating look at how wrong reproductions can actually go.

Using real ink screen process color match is possible. During the airball plastic creation my debate was about dark or light orange. Final choice was light orange - due to the fact that tons of restored IJ are in the wild (with light orange set).

#6413 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Using real ink screen process color match is possible. During the airball plastic creation my debate was about dark or light orange. Final choice was light orange - due to the fact that tons of restored IJ are in the wild (with light orange set).

What did you do to colour match? Without the original Pantone numbers, or without a physical Pantone chip guide (which I find to be prohibitively expensive), I haven't found a good way to match inks to an existing part.

Scanning a part is decent if it's small and flat enough, but photographing one and trying to digitally match is fraught with errors due to differences in camera sensors, room lighting, and un-calibrated monitors. You can get "close enough," but if you're a crazy perfectionist even the tiniest hue difference can eat your sanity.

#6414 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

What did you do to colour match? Without the original Pantone numbers, or without a physical Pantone chip guide (which I find to be prohibitively expensive), I haven't found a good way to match inks to an existing part.
Scanning a part is decent if it's small and flat enough, but photographing one and trying to digitally match is fraught with errors due to differences in camera sensors, room lighting, and un-calibrated monitors. You can get "close enough," but if you're a crazy perfectionist even the tiniest hue difference can eat your sanity.

Color match is try and error process, and need a lot of experience. Color pickers are useless for this purpose.

#6415 3 years ago

Getting there. Head is reassembled and cab is drying while the hardware is in the tumbler. Wasnt as difficult as I thought to prep the cab and remove old art. I will definitely vouch for RadCals though, they were sharper and easier to install than the replacement artwork that came with my machine.

20200731_200433 (resized).jpg20200731_200433 (resized).jpg20200803_013631 (resized).jpg20200803_013631 (resized).jpg

#6416 3 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Getting there. Head is reassembled and cab is drying while the hardware is in the tumbler. Wasnt as difficult as I thought to prep the cab and remove old art. I will definitely vouch for RadCals though, they were sharper and easier to install than the replacement artwork that came with my machine.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for sharing - did you simply paint over the existing decals?

I though the RadCals only go up to the bottom edge of the metal rail on the cab so you don't need to remove them, is this right as I see you've removed yours?

#6417 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thanks for sharing - did you simply paint over the existing decals?
I though the RadCals only go up to the bottom edge of the metal rail on the cab so you don't need to remove them, is this right as I see you've removed yours?

I sanded to the white on the cabinet because I saw Radcals can be semi transparent. Also I needed to fix cab dings. It was easy though. Sanded to white, spray painted black, wet sand smooth, and apply

#6418 3 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

I sanded to the white on the cabinet because I saw Radcals can be semi transparent. Also I needed to fix cab dings. It was easy though. Sanded to white, spray painted black, wet sand smooth, and apply

Wet sanding, while very effective, is the absolute worst activity ever. If there is a hell and I end up going there, I am confident I will be on a treadmill while wet sanding.

#6419 3 years ago

Still in the thick of beta testing the Z deflector. We’ve learned some things ... all good but we are not where I want to be with it.

I feel like the next of my three design concepts is inevitable at this point. For those who haven’t tried the Z please do ... your efforts will not be a waste. You will also receive the next design proto.

Remember my goal with the deflector is come up with something that is easy to make and easy to install. As each of these designs get ruled out ... the complexity increases a bit.

I will be testing the next design this weekend.

Thanks again !

#6420 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah when I restored my Indy... it bugged me for like... a microsecond. Once I replaced everything... it just looked so damned good that it became irrelevant... really quick.

Installed the repro plastics. You are correct, after a microsecond, it all looks great. Actually matches the playfield better. Thank again.

#6421 3 years ago

Csn someone post a picture of the gun connector?

Im finally getting my last IJ running and someone literally ripped the gun out of the game.

The cab wire is a 3 wire, the gun (my spare) is 2 wire.

I need to know which wires are paired.

Any help would be great..

I just need to know where the wires go to make a new connector.

I sold my working IJ to a pinsider earlier this year but didnt take any pics.

Thanks!

#6422 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Csn someone post a picture of the gun connector?
Im finally getting my last IJ running and someone literally ripped the gun out of the game.
The cab wire is a 3 wire, the gun (my spare) is 2 wire.
I need to know which wires are paired.
Any help would be great..
I just need to know where the wires go to make a new connector.
I sold my working IJ to a pinsider earlier this year but didnt take any pics.
Thanks!

Is this clear enough?
20200804_225010 (resized).jpg20200804_225010 (resized).jpg

20200804_224917 (resized).jpg20200804_224917 (resized).jpg
#6423 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Is this clear enough?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Wow!

Just perfect. Thanks!

I bought 6 IJ's in 2003 in terrible condition.

I finally unwrapped this one today.

Hopefully will get it booted this weekend. I hope to do a high end restore on it and maybe keep it lol!

#6424 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wow!
Just perfect. Thanks!
I bought 6 IJ's in 2003 in terrible condition.
I finally unwrapped this one today.
Hopefully will get it booted this weekend. I hope to do a high end restore on it and maybe keep it lol!

Hey Tom
I've been looking for an IJ Rotor Popper (at the idol) for a while now with no luck. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16231
I was wondering if by chance you had an extra that you would be willing to sell. I just need the weldment.
If you don't have an extra would you be willing to lend your original weldment to Mantis Amusements? The last time that I talked with Kerry, he said that he would be willing to reproduce it if he had an original to get measurements. The deal in the past is that Kerry sends you a new reproduction plus your original back for your trouble. You would have to double check this with Kerry, of course.
Thanks
Wally

#6425 3 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey Tom
I've been looking for an IJ Rotor Popper (at the idol) for a while now with no luck. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16231
I was wondering if by chance you had an extra that you would be willing to sell. I just need the weldment.
If you don't have an extra would you be willing to lend your original weldment to Mantis Amusements? The last time that I talked with Kerry, he said that he would be willing to reproduce it if he had an original to get measurements. The deal in the past is that Kerry sends you a new reproduction plus your original back for your trouble. You would have to double check this with Kerry, of course.
Thanks
Wally

Let me look around my shop.

Its been awhile lol.

If anything i could pull it out of my game if needed.

If i cant find one, does anyone else have one to buy, borrow?

These things were rare 6 years ago...

#6426 3 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey Tom
I've been looking for an IJ Rotor Popper (at the idol) for a while now with no luck. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16231
I was wondering if by chance you had an extra that you would be willing to sell. I just need the weldment.
If you don't have an extra would you be willing to lend your original weldment to Mantis Amusements? The last time that I talked with Kerry, he said that he would be willing to reproduce it if he had an original to get measurements. The deal in the past is that Kerry sends you a new reproduction plus your original back for your trouble. You would have to double check this with Kerry, of course.
Thanks
Wally

I am curious why the weldment would fail. It is mentioned this is a hard to find part, but how would this part get damaged?

#6427 3 years ago
Quoted from WillSmuz8999:

I am curious why the weldment would fail. It is mentioned this is a hard to find part, but how would this part get damaged?

I think Wally is building an IJ from scratch. That particular weldment is very durable ... hence there are very few floating about in the wild.

#6428 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I think Wally is building an IJ from scratch. That particular weldment is very durable ... hence there are very few floating about in the wild.

Yep, I'm planning to build an IJ from parts sometime in the distant future.
Wally

#6429 3 years ago

Onto next one...

Looks like the hammerpede (Prometheus movie) before bending.

This is a bit of a pain to bend because of the compound angles.

Trying with and without bumpers.

S-U-C-H A P-A-I-N I-N T-H-E A-S-S T-O T-E-S-T !!!!!

062097CD-24ED-4947-96F6-2CE959871583 (resized).jpeg062097CD-24ED-4947-96F6-2CE959871583 (resized).jpeg9FB3A086-56EF-455F-BF9E-F541347D05B9 (resized).jpeg9FB3A086-56EF-455F-BF9E-F541347D05B9 (resized).jpeg08E328A1-3B9E-4BA9-BBE3-B44CEB2A2183 (resized).jpeg08E328A1-3B9E-4BA9-BBE3-B44CEB2A2183 (resized).jpegD47888FB-61B1-4E42-857A-0209C85CA29A (resized).jpegD47888FB-61B1-4E42-857A-0209C85CA29A (resized).jpegE330D43D-20BC-4CAD-A178-177AD865C8F9 (resized).jpegE330D43D-20BC-4CAD-A178-177AD865C8F9 (resized).jpeg

#6430 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Onto next one...
Looks like the hammerpede (Prometheus movie) before bending.
This is a bit of a pain to bend because of the compound angles.
Trying with and without bumpers.
S-U-C-H A P-A-I-N I-N T-H-E A-S-S T-O T-E-S-T !!!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Exciting! While I hope both will work the same, I am rooting for no bumpers #teamthud

Just curious, why did you make this one skinnier and only use 2 of the 3 screw holes? Is there a plan to do one that is wider and utilizes the extra benefit of the 3 holes in the PF?

#6431 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Exciting! While I hope both will work the same, I am rooting for no bumpers #teamthud
Just curious, why did you make this one skinnier and only use 2 of the 3 screw holes? Is there a plan to do one that is wider and utilizes the extra benefit of the 3 holes in the PF?

It’s actually wider... because its shape is formed by bending ... the middle screw is not possible.

It’s got funky compound angles. Not my first choice ... but not my last

#6432 3 years ago

Could you make the cut in the back at an angle (before the bend) to leave material for the middle screw?

Looks iffy upon further review...

#6433 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Could you make the cut in the back at an angle (before the bend) to leave material for the middle screw?
Looks iffy upon further review...

You are correct... There is too much metal there... its not right, and could be made to accommodate the middle screw. However bending those little 14 gauge stainless tabs is a bitch so I'm already not in love with this particular design. It needed to be tried... still playing with the angles... none of these are "done"... they are still just protos.

#6434 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You are correct... There is too much metal there... its not right, and could be made to accommodate the middle screw. However bending those little 14 gauge stainless tabs is a bitch so I'm already not in love with this particular design. It needed to be tried... still playing with the angles... none of these are "done"... they are still just protos.

I'd say the obvious problem with this one is that it doesn't have a cool name like zeeflector.

#6435 3 years ago

All of my optos just stopped working. Checked each one individually to see if a wire came loose but don't see anything. Checked board connections, all seem good. Is there a fuse for the optos?
The drop target optos work and the poa optos work. But the ramps, idol opto and ball trough all are not working

#6436 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

All of my optos just stopped working. Checked each one individually to see if a wire came loose but don't see anything. Checked board connections, all seem good. Is there a fuse for the optos?

Check your 12VDC power supply fuse. All the optos and motors are powered by 12VDC.

You can quickly see if 12V is dead if you run the plane flasher test...those LEDs are also powered by 12VDC

#6437 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Check your 12VDC power supply fuse. All the optos and motors are powered by 12VDC.
You can quickly see if 12V is dead if you run the plane flasher test...those LEDs are also powered by 12VDC

All the flashers and motors are working, including all solenoids. It's just the optos for the ramps, the 2 holes on poa, the ball trough and idol ball upkick

#6438 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

All the flashers and motors are working, including all solenoids. It's just the optos for the ramps, the 2 holes on poa, the ball trough and idol ball upkick

All of those are driven by the 10 opto PCB under the playfield. Make sure that has power and check it’s connectors.... components on that PCB do fail.

#6439 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

All of those are driven by the 10 opto PCB under the playfield. Make sure that has power and check it’s connectors.... components on that PCB do fail.

This is the board, correct? All connections seem good, it's a newer board. I unplugged and plugged everything back in.

15968411985237064251830359365768 (resized).jpg15968411985237064251830359365768 (resized).jpg
#6440 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

All the flashers and motors are working, including all solenoids. It's just the optos for the ramps, the 2 holes on poa, the ball trough and idol ball upkick

How does your CPU board look? I had this problem due to battery leakage, corrosion. Had to get new board.

#6441 3 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

How does your CPU board look? I had this problem due to battery leakage, corrosion. Had to get new board.

CPU board is newer as well. D21 lit solid, d20 lit flashing. It's so weird because all the optos were working fine. I've checked connections all over the place. Can't get them to "close" at all. They are all just stuck open in test mode

#6442 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

CPU board is newer as well. D21 lit solid, d20 lit flashing. It's so weird because all the optos were working fine. I've checked connections all over the place. Can't get them to "close" at all. They are all just stuck open in test mode

Does your right slingshot work? Yes- probably opto board problem. If no, look at bottom right corner of cpu board and look for corrosion- have a column problem.

#6443 3 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

Does your right slingshot work? Yes- probably opto board problem. If no, look at bottom right corner of cpu board and look for corrosion- have a column problem.

Yes right sling works. So you think the opto board went bad even though it's newer? It's the homepin replacement (red led is on the board, so it's getting power) Anything else to try before I purchase a new one?

#6444 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Yes right sling works. So you think the opto board went bad even though it's newer? It's the homepin replacement (red led is on the board, so it's getting power) Anything else to try before I purchase a new one?

That would be my bet. New boards only as good as their manufacturer. How long was it working? Reseat connections and see if can trace wires from board to optos.

#6445 3 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

That would be my bet. New boards only as good as their manufacturer. How long was it working? Reseat connections and see if can trace wires from board to optos.

It's always worked since I got it. Never had any opto issues until today. Retraced all wires, reconnected plugs as well. Sucks that a new board will cost $100

#6446 3 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

That would be my bet. New boards only as good as their manufacturer. How long was it working? Reseat connections and see if can trace wires from board to optos.

Actually Homepins boards on the whole are great and tends to use highly quality components and design improvements while keeping the board looking similar to the original. Admittedly there seemed to be a batch of Homepin IJ POA opto boards that had an issue but they simply didn't work to start off with

#6447 3 years ago

A little more research and something weird is happening... If I unplug the machine for a few minutes (not just turn off the power switch) then plug it back in and turn it on, the optos work.

#6448 3 years ago

Nevermind, unplugging it only worked once. This is strange.

#6450 3 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Nevermind, unplugging it only worked once. This is strange.

Loose, corroded connector or wire.

I suspect on or near the 10 opto board or the cable that feeds it from the backbox.

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