(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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  • 6,456 posts
  • 452 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 218 Pinsiders

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There are 6456 posts in this topic. You are on page 128 of 130.
#6351 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I think there is some on the playfield art... “Dr. Jones” ... I think is “Dad” on the early ones.

It also has a large blue scarob that is placed behind the flippers in front of the Bottom Arch.

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#6352 11 days ago

Getting ready for powdercoat, sanding, and RadCals. So far, taking apart the coin door for powder coating has been the most terrifying thing

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#6353 11 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Interesting thought. I guess with narrowing the shot entrance and with the assumption that the ball won't be airborne reduces the possible impact zone of the ball such that designers were able to use a flat deflector. Regardless of the deflector shape, one of the challenges is then absorbing the momentum of the ball for it stay in the saucer and not bounce out - I think the position of the IJ saucer such that it can be hit with a full blooded strike from the right flipper is why this particular deflector has been an issue over the years.

"f$^k saucers ... we're using a scoop!" - every manufacturer since.

#6354 11 days ago
Quoted from koops:

"f$^k saucers ... we're using a scoop!" - every manufacturer since.

Yeah... this is true. Saucers are old-school... for slower velocity shots. Don’t get me wrong ... bending a piece of metal to a radius isn’t terribly complex. My hope was to come up with something that could be made on a bending brake.

If it turned out to be a dud ... I’ve a few curved options to try. So far ... so good.

#6355 11 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Getting ready for powdercoat, sanding, and RadCals. So far, taking apart the coin door for powder coating has been the most terrifying thing
[quoted image][quoted image]

Coin doors are a pain in the a$$! They've got it all... wiring, tiny screws... switches...pieces parts.

#6356 11 days ago
Quoted from WillSmuz8999:

It also has a large blue scarob that is placed behind the flippers in front of the Bottom Arch.
[quoted image]

I wish they'd kept that... I like it!

#6357 11 days ago
Quoted from WillSmuz8999:

It also has a large blue scarob that is placed behind the flippers in front of the Bottom Arch.
[quoted image]

Do they have the names of the designers somewhere else on your playfield or were they simply omitted?

Interestingly Lior's apron had a scarab design on it as well

IJ (resized).jpg

#6358 11 days ago

ZFlectors have been sent out to testers. Fingers crossed they work as well in the wild!

#6359 11 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do they have the names of the designers somewhere else on your playfield or were they simply omitted?
Interestingly Lior's apron had a scarab design on it as well
[quoted image]

I will look tonight. I do believe the designer's names are on the playfield.

#6360 11 days ago

The poa on ij that I just bought seems to have an issue tilting left correctly. It struggles and moves slowly, but tilts to the right very quickly. Does this indicate a faulty motor? It does it in test mode also. Is there something I could do to "loosen" up the motor to make it run smooth? The motor actually looks pretty new. So I'm hoping I won't need to purchase a new one.

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#6361 10 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

The poa on ij that I just bought seems to have an issue tilting left correctly. It struggles and moves slowly, but tilts to the right very quickly. Does this indicate a faulty motor? It does it in test mode also. Is there something I could do to "loosen" up the motor to make it run smooth? The motor actually looks pretty new. So I'm hoping I won't need to purchase a new one.[quoted image]

Doubtful it’s the motor.

Likely it’s intermittent optos on the POA opto board. It has two optos that determine the position of the POA.

#6362 10 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

The poa on ij that I just bought seems to have an issue tilting left correctly. It struggles and moves slowly, but tilts to the right very quickly. Does this indicate a faulty motor? It does it in test mode also. Is there something I could do to "loosen" up the motor to make it run smooth? The motor actually looks pretty new. So I'm hoping I won't need to purchase a new one.[quoted image]

Opto board.

Clean the optos.

If that doesn't work, rebuild or replace the board.

Personally, I would just replace the board and the motor controller board too, if it hasnt been done already.

#6363 10 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Doubtful it’s the motor.
Likely it’s intermittent optos on the POA opto board. It has two optos that determine the position of the POA.

I'm almost 100% certain this is the issue. Mine did the same thing and fixing the opto board solved the problem

#6364 10 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

The poa on ij that I just bought seems to have an issue tilting left correctly. It struggles and moves slowly, but tilts to the right very quickly. Does this indicate a faulty motor? It does it in test mode also. Is there something I could do to "loosen" up the motor to make it run smooth? The motor actually looks pretty new. So I'm hoping I won't need to purchase a new one.[quoted image]

Very little chance its the motor.....as the others have said clean/rebuild or replace the opto board .... my POA was doing the exact same thing.

#6365 10 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Doubtful it’s the motor.
Likely it’s intermittent optos on the POA opto board. It has two optos that determine the position of the POA.

I went into test mode and the optos do notice right and left positions. Are you referring to the control board under the playfield?

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#6366 10 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I went into test mode and the optos do notice right and left positions. Are you referring to the control board under the playfield?
[quoted image]

That’s the motor driver. The optic board is on face of of the backboard next to the axle of the motor.

Go in test mode and let it sit to see if you get intermittent switch interruption. You may not see it... clean the optos ... If that doesn’t work... replace it.
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#6367 10 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

That’s the motor driver. The optic board is on face of of the backboard next to the axle of the motor.
Go in test mode and let it sit to see if you get intermittent switch interruption. You may not see it... clean the optos ... If that doesn’t work... replace it.
[quoted image]

Thanks a lot! Cleaned the optos and now it's smooth as butter left and right. Appreciate the help!

#6368 10 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do they have the names of the designers somewhere else on your playfield or were they simply omitted?
Interestingly Lior's apron had a scarab design on it as well
[quoted image]

I was surprised - the design team names were omitted on the prototype playfield.

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#6369 10 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Thanks a lot! Cleaned the optos and now it's smooth as butter left and right. Appreciate the help!

Cleaning the optos is the first step, we've all done it.

Generally it fixes it a bit.

If the POA isnt perfect and smooth, replace the board.

They are cheap and work wonders.

I no longer fool around with it.

Just replace all the boards, motors and gearboxes.

It will be perfect for years, trouble free.

#6370 10 days ago
Quoted from WillSmuz8999:

I was surprised - the design team names were omitted on the prototype playfield.
[quoted image]

Very cool that u have a prototype play field. It looks like u have a factory installed play field protector as well. Have u thought about removing it? I'd like to remove mine, but scared I'll pull artwork from the original play field.

#6371 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Opto board.
Clean the optos.
If that doesn't work, rebuild or replace the board.
Personally, I would just replace the board and the motor controller board too, if it hasnt been done already.

Where did you buy your motor driver board? I may pick one up just in case

#6372 10 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Where did you buy your motor driver board? I may pick one up just in case

Marcospecialties or k's arcade.

The homepin motor board works well for me, but the opto board was from anarchy or someone else.

Stay away from the homepin opto boards, they don't work.

As far as motors, every single one i bought in the last couple years was wired backwards internally.

Red dot to black wire fixed them.
Instead of red to red.

Test with a 9v battery before installing to be sure.

#6373 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Marcospecialties or k's arcade.
The homepin motor board works well for me, but the opto board was from anarchy or someone else.
Stay away from the homepin opto boards, they don't work.
As far as motors, every single one i bought in the last couple years was wired backwards internally.
Red dot to black wire fixed them.
Instead of red to red.
Test with a 9v battery before installing to be sure.

Thanks

#6374 9 days ago

Ran into another issue with my ij. The diverter wouldn't hold so that I could hit the poa. I noticed it wasn't the correct coil according to the manual. So I bought the correct one from macro and installed it. It did much better and held. But after playing a while, it slowly sags back, especially when using the flippers (I'm guessing it's hooked to the same solonoid wiring). So when it sags, I can't hit the poa because it sits almost in the middle of the ramp. I tried adjusting it, just seems to wear out when it gets hot.

#6375 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Ran into another issue with my ij. The diverter wouldn't hold so that I could hit the poa. I noticed it wasn't the correct coil according to the manual. So I bought the correct one from macro and installed it. It did much better and held. But after playing a while, it slowly sags back, especially when using the flippers (I'm guessing it's hooked to the same solonoid wiring). So when it sags, I can't hit the poa because it sits almost in the middle of the ramp. I tried adjusting it, just seems to wear out when it gets hot.

Make sure that coil has diodes on it... mine didn't come with diodes.

diverter (resized).jpg
#6376 9 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Make sure that coil has diodes on it... mine didn't come with diodes.
[quoted image]

So even though the part number calls for no diodes, I should get the one with diodes?

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#6377 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

So even though the part number calls for no diodes, I should get the one with diodes?
[quoted image]

Interesting... my game had them on the coil... when I replaced it... I just copied what I had... didn't give it a thought. Manual doesn't call them out either. Hmm

#6378 9 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Interesting... my game had them on the coil... when I replaced it... I just copied what I had... didn't give it a thought. Manual doesn't call them out either. Hmm

Well your photo did show me something I didn't realize, my coil was upside down. I don't know how much that effects it, but I just mounted it the same way as the previous owner. I'll see if mounting it properly helps.

#6379 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Well your photo did show me something I didn't realize, my coil was upside down. I don't know how much that effects it, but I just mounted it the same way as the previous owner. I'll see if mounting it properly helps.

I'm actually finding some examples of factory equipped units that have the diodes installed.

The manual also doesn't call out the spring or the c-clip
diverter (resized).png

#6380 9 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I'm actually finding some examples of factory equipped units that have the diodes installed.
The manual also doesn't call out the spring or the c-clip
[quoted image]

Mine still isn't holding, it gets weaker with more gameplay. Can anyone confirm that it needs the diodes? The other coil that was in it is fl-11629 and it does have diodes. But it wasn't holding either. Perhaps the wiring was wrong from the previous owner. Can you take a picture of the wiring for each solder position?

#6381 9 days ago

I had the fighter plane on my IJ painted by Modfather for a more realistic look. Very happy with the paint job he did and new look.

While I was trying to reinstall it a few nights ago, the red wire that attaches to the led board under the plane came off. This will be my first attempt at soldering (bought a iron off of Ebay) but just double checking to make sure the 12V (see picture) is where the red wire attaches... or is the opposite D2 spot (black goes into D1)?

Yes, I'm an inexperienced rookie with this stuff. Just want to make sure I get this right. Don't want to have to order a new un customized plane if I screw something up.

20200729_211217 (resized).jpg20200729_211237 (resized).jpg

#6382 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Marcospecialties or k's arcade.
Stay away from the homepin opto boards, they don't work.

Just DOA or something else? I have a set and they worked fine.

#6383 9 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I had the fighter plane on my IJ painted by Modfather for a more realistic look. Very happy with the paint job he did and new look.
While I was trying to reinstall it a few nights ago, the red wire that attaches to the led board under the plane came off. This will be my first attempt at soldering (bought a iron off of Ebay) but just double checking to make sure the 12V (see picture) is where the red wire attaches... or is the opposite D2 spot (black goes into D1)?
Yes, I'm an inexperienced rookie with this stuff. Just want to make sure I get this right. Don't want to have to order a new un customized plane if I screw something up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It'd be the 12V as you can see the oldwire still soldered in the 12V pad and the D2 pad has never had anything soldered to it

#6384 9 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It'd be the 12V as you can see the oldwire still soldered in the 12V pad and the D2 pad has never had anything soldered to it

Correct.

I believe the original intent for the flashing effect was to have the LEDs alternate on and off as the board was designed that way. There is an extra diode on there but the functionality is shunted by W1

#6385 9 days ago
Quoted from koops:

Just DOA or something else? I have a set and they worked fine.

Early boards from homepin had a design flaw, they will never work.

I bought 3 of them from spare parts AU, all bad.

Fortunately they are inexpensive.

There are still a ton of them out in the field.

My advice is to get different ones if you can.

Or just rebuild them with all new components, theres only 5 or 6 parts on the boards.

#6386 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Mine still isn't holding, it gets weaker with more gameplay. Can anyone confirm that it needs the diodes? The other coil that was in it is fl-11629 and it does have diodes. But it wasn't holding either. Perhaps the wiring was wrong from the previous owner. Can you take a picture of the wiring for each solder position?

Anyone have any further ideas on how to fix this issue?

#6387 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Anyone have any further ideas on how to fix this issue?

Some are using the next higher power coil.

You can also unwind 6' of wire to make it more powerful. They call this a speed mod.

Also make sure there is absolutely no binding or scraping, zero.

Original coils have diodes.

The diodes dont affect the power but can save the driver board.

#6388 9 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Well your photo did show me something I didn't realize, my coil was upside down. I don't know how much that effects it, but I just mounted it the same way as the previous owner. I'll see if mounting it properly helps.

The diodes are supposed to be on the plunger side, but Williams often put the coils in whatever direction fit well, based on wire length, or wherever the locking nub on the spool ended up.

Yours is correct.

The coil stop side gets smacked all the time by the plunger and the solder/wires can crack off on highly routed games.

This is not an issue on home use games at all, but id fix it on a route game.

It will work perfectly in either direction.

#6389 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The diodes are supposed to be on the plunger side, but Williams often put the coils in whatever direction fit well, based on wire length, or wherever the locking nub on the spool ended up.
Yours is correct.
The coil stop side gets smacked all the time by the plunger and the solder/wires can crack off on highly routed games.
This is not an issue on home use games at all, but id fix it on a route game.
It will work perfectly in either direction.

I took it apart, put on a stronger coil, made sure there was absolutely no friction, made sure all parts are correct.. It works great at first, holds well and stays where it should. But after a bit, it starts loosening, especially when using the flippers, it falls back each time a flipper is pressed.

#6390 7 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I took it apart, put on a stronger coil, made sure there was absolutely no friction, made sure all parts are correct.. It works great at first, holds well and stays where it should. But after a bit, it starts loosening, especially when using the flippers, it falls back each time a flipper is pressed.

I would take a look at the power supply.

Maybe rebuild or replace the board.

The high voltage side might be weak, leaking caps etc.

Check or replace pins and connectors.

#6391 7 days ago

Any thoughts on what a NOS fully populated & wired IJ playfield still in the factory crate would bring theses days?

#6392 7 days ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

Any thoughts on what a NOS fully populated & wired IJ playfield still in the factory crate would bring theses days?

The way IJ values are? I’m guessing around 3k? ****at least

#6393 7 days ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

Any thoughts on what a NOS fully populated & wired IJ playfield still in the factory crate would bring theses days?

30 years old now.

$2500 maybe less depending on condition.

Inserts are probably sunken now.
Some corrosion etc.

It will have to be completely disassembled and clearcoated.

So, $1000 for the playfield that needs work.

$1500 for the parts maybe.

It will cost $1000 or more to get it into shape.

#6394 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I would take a look at the power supply.
Maybe rebuild or replace the board.
The high voltage side might be weak, leaking caps etc.
Check or replace pins and connectors.

U happen to know where I can purchase a new/replacement one?

#6395 7 days ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

U happen to know where I can purchase a new/replacement one?

Some ideas:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WPC-PDA12697X

ebay.com link

Contact chris hibler or one of the repair guys to have the board refreshed and tested?

#6396 7 days ago

Baby Indy

0B559656-6AE8-4283-9384-2691E262C678 (resized).jpeg
#6397 7 days ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

Any thoughts on what a NOS fully populated & wired IJ playfield still in the factory crate would bring theses days?

Did you actually find someone whose selling one? Be pretty cool to find a NIB NOS populated play field....

#6398 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

30 years old now.
$2500 maybe less depending on condition.
Inserts are probably sunken now.
Some corrosion etc.
It will have to be completely disassembled and clearcoated.
So, $1000 for the playfield that needs work.
$1500 for the parts maybe.
It will cost $1000 or more to get it into shape.

Do these older play fields typically have sunken inserts?

#6399 6 days ago

Welp my first beta test of the ZFlector was a flop!

I’ve 4 more testers out there but if it doesn’t work for one ... it will be an issue for others.

It’s a bummer because it works nearly perfect for me. For the others out there ... don’t be surprised if your experience is not great.

This is why we test.

#6400 6 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp my first beta test of the ZFlector was a flop!
I’ve 4 more testers out there but if it doesn’t work for one ... it will be an issue for others.
It’s a bummer because it works nearly perfect for me. For the others out there ... don’t be surprised if your experience is not great.
This is why we test.

Interesting! I haven't received mine yet...once I do I'll test away.

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