Known for his "sculpted ruins" mods. Here's a link to his Pinside shop:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1091-the-art-of-pinball

He made some nice mods for IJ....Ruins, POA, apron, and idol. I don't think the ruins, idol, or POA rails are available anymore? I have seen the apron.

Here is one,

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-indiana-jones-mini-pf-ruin-my-first-prototype/page/2#post-5262283

Proto 2 Zflectors are here ... (not Z's yet ) ready for bending and will be sent to beta testers next week!
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I think a test is required at every continent - just to check compatibility of export games

Not sure why ... but all this bending has made me want to take a nap

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Wow! Backwards S-flectors!

Hahahahahah!

They look good....what did you use to bend?

Vise with bending jaws.

Preliminary tests on the extended hood...

Not as good as the first one with the shorter hood.

I believe the hood is too long and what is happening is the ball is hitting the bottom of the skid and the top of the hood at the same time... essentially making it behave like the original deflector. I think the hood could be extended some ... but I may have gone too far.

This is why we prototype and test.

Sounds like it's time for the angle grinder

They are not bent right!

Its working great. I was off on my numbers that I recorded before !!!!!

Ah, now I'm with ya.

How do I become a beta tester?

You already are you just don’t know it yet

I must admit... I'm a little bent that I made that mistake on 6 of each protos

Like anything else, you learn as you go.

My education on similar stuff has been costly, but priceless.

Awesome!

I’ve only got three of the long deflectors to go out ... (casualties of my stupid error). Those of you whom are getting them may not get a long deflector. It’s ok ... they both work but I’ll let the testing speak for itself on which one is more effective

Depending upon how this goes I may get another batch cut. Either way once we are done Cliffy will have them ready.

I was too excited and was in a hurry. NEVER try to do something quick... especially with a pinball!

Hey folks, I'm nearing the finish line of my Indiana Jones restoration. New optos last night, and im finally ready to tackle the cab dings and artwork. Has anyone used RADCALS? Ive heard you remove the siderails, head, etc and can put them over the original art without sanding or removing the old artwork. That would be fantastic if I didnt need to remove the innards of the machine. Can anyone reccomend them? Thank you

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Following, cause I need to do the same thing.

Radcal is translucent - make sense to remove the old artwork.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-regular-and-glitter-playfields-radcals-decals/page/2#post-5730417

I'd certainly paint the whole cabinet and head before installing RadCals. Putty marks, dings and holes, sand, prime & paint. Some may say it's overkill, not to me. That's what I'll be doing on (4) sets I've purchased.

I'm on the fence as to sink the smaller bolts or keep it "old school" with bolt heads showing.

So what if I remove the side rails, coin dooelr, etc etc etc, spray paint over the old decals, then apply the radcals? Could that work? Flat black or glossy?

RadCals seem like a nice product, but one of the big advantages (or so I thought) was that u could install over the old decals thus eliminating removal of the old decals, which is a pain in the butt. Since thats not the case wouldn't it be better to use standard decals?

I think IJ is screen printed, not a decal - I wouldn't be putting them over a decal. You would still need to prep the surface for painting at a minimum and I've only seen gloss used on cabinets.

Seems like white would be a better choice... black may have a darkening effect to the artwork.

RadCals are very glossy vs. decals being satin to maybe a semi-gloss. So, they are quite different in appearance and texture.

To do decals right you can't cut any corners. In my opinion: I think RadCal's thickness would allow you to cut corners, if you needed / wanted to.

I haven't installed any RadCals yet, however, I have done 5-6 decals.

Honestly if they weren’t translucent ... and the cabinet wasn’t a mess (digned up or moisture damaged) they would stick just fine. The translucent aspect of them is a bummer for those looking for a quick job.

Yes the original cabinet was screen printed onto vinyl. The vinyl is glued to the surface of the cabinet. Once you start stripping the cabinet of the vinyl base ... you will be down to the adhesive layer ... Once you are there ... it all has to come off and the cabinet will need a base coat of paint.

Ok, so remove orginal decals. Spray paint glossy white or black? Then add RadCals? Sound right?

If it were me... (and I've never done radcals)... I would strip it and paint it white given they are translucent. I would keep the start and super-ball holes black.

I installed mine a couple weeks ago. Personally, I think they look great. They have a mirror finish and really change the look of the machine. As far as prep work, I fixed a couple corners with bondo, and then painted over the old artwork with semi gloss black. Thats it. Richochet has a good point about black possibly having a darkening effect, however I went with black since I was concerned about the corners and edges where the paint might not be completely covered by the radcal, and I think that was a good call. If you look along the bottom of the picture, you can see a thin strip where the radcal doesn't completely cover the cab and for that it seemed better to have the paint match the rest of the cab and backbox. I suppose you could paint the corners edges black and go with white for the rest, but I'm lazy (thus radcals in the first place) and for me, I think they look fantastic regardless.

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I agree black is the way to go. I too will be painting the cab & head all black. Then any exposed edges will be blended nicely, especially the inside of the head, under lockdown bar, under coin door, start & extra ball buttons etc. Plus, I'll be re-screening the yellow warning labels on back of head.

Yup... black does make sense due to the head and corner blending.

There was one member in this thread that was reproducing them in various colors and another that does a more “realistic” version of them.

You may also want to try a “wanted” add... you might get lucky.

Also bear in mind there are two different types of POA siderails... the production version which is red plastic and early proto version which are metal. If you have a picture of your POA (looking flat down on it) we can determine what you need by the drill hole pattern.

I've not realised this either - good to know and I like the look (not that I don't like the red plastic version).

Good luck with finding some to fit out your machine

You either have a sample game or a prototype game depending on your play field. I have a sample game as well, but it has the red POA rails

Other than the stainless steel ball guides on the POA, were there any other differences with the prototypes? I'm assuming it had the PF backboard plastic?

I think there is some on the playfield art... “Dr. Jones” ... I think is “Dad” on the early ones.

Taking this to the extreme what would the "perfect" shape be?

As the ball only touches a single point my guess is a 3 dimensional parabola with a focus point that is below the playfield and into the saucer?
The shape would be similar to the inside of a headlight. That way regardless of where the ball hits it would go in?

Exclude any areas that the ball cant physically hit due to the side rails and top plastic and you'd probably have a curved sheet.

Yes there is the perfect shape. The challenge is the small amount of volume in the space provided and the practicality of bending such a small piece of 14 gauge steel.

Interesting thought. I guess with narrowing the shot entrance and with the assumption that the ball won't be airborne reduces the possible impact zone of the ball such that designers were able to use a flat deflector. Regardless of the deflector shape, one of the challenges is then absorbing the momentum of the ball for it stay in the saucer and not bounce out - I think the position of the IJ saucer such that it can be hit with a full blooded strike from the right flipper is why this particular deflector has been an issue over the years.

... and you would be surprised at the amount of spin the ball does have... spin is a huge factor.

The cost of machining a concave deflector would be a issue but interesting concept none the less

Yep and that's even harder to cater for given the variability

My understanding is that prototypes had "Dad" instead of "Dr Jones" on the play field art. Rumor has it about 20 of these were made. The samples had an extra board on the back panel behind the bridge plastic (3, 555 Lights), and some of those had POA rails. I was told about 200 of these are in the wild. Apparently some of the play fields were made with mylar play field protectors as well. Mine has one of these. The good news is the play field looks almost perfect, but the bad news is I'm scared to take it off.

Theoretically this sounds correct. Manufacturing this product would be another story