(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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  • 6,457 posts
  • 452 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Buellxb12r
  • Topic is favorited by 218 Pinsiders

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There are 6457 posts in this topic. You are on page 125 of 130.
#6201 37 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I’m having a little pinball garage sale and I have some Indy stuff someone maybe interested in. Only charging shipping but please don’t hoard. I’m hoping this stuff will be timely for someone in their work right now.
I have a translite with two little nicks circled in red). Never noticed them till I took it out to put in the mirrored back glass. I’d guess it’s original.
I have two “lost plastic” repros printed on translucent plasticy medium but it’s thin. Not really sure what it is. But it will behave like the plastic but not be so hard to install with it taking up valuable thickness in the back there. I had them printed for me but then I ended up just using a decal and lighting from the front instead. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is the translite spoken for?

#6202 37 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Is the translite spoken for?

Nope. You can have it.

#6203 36 days ago

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.

They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.

Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.

05B2B76F-06E4-4058-BD43-762B0E3394F2 (resized).jpeg2D013169-FE72-44FF-9AEB-50BDE55759AD (resized).jpeg351FD5B7-FA28-4060-B19F-43AFFEF57452 (resized).jpeg0B6BA1ED-2DC2-4ED2-B7BF-DC4734C0DA82 (resized).jpeg

#6204 36 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.
They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.
Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks factory!

#6205 36 days ago

Thanks! I was kind of bummed out it was a little too tall. Technically it's correct... its the plastic protector that creates the interference. I guess I forgot to check that w/proto 1.

#6206 36 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Thanks! I was kind of bummed out it was a little too tall. Technically it's correct... its the plastic protector that creates the interference. I guess I forgot to check that w/proto 1.

Its nothing that 1 min on a sander cant fix.

Now you have to design an enclosed metal box to solve the mode rejects.

Something like the official fix (ala JJP style), but a total enclosure that you can just bolt up behind the hole.

#6207 36 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Now you have to design an enclosed metal box to solve the mode rejects.

I've got two protos in the works... stay tuned.

#6208 36 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I've got two protos in the works... stay tuned.

Im ready for it !

#6209 36 days ago

and me....

#6210 36 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.
They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.
Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe this is a weird idea: what about mirror polishing? It can create a nice dissapearing illusion.

#6211 36 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Maybe this is a weird idea: what about mirror polishing? It can create a nice dissapearing illusion.

I can certainly try that for fun !

#6212 35 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Nope. You can have it.

Fantastic! Sending a pm

#6213 35 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.
They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.
Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry if I missed it. Are you selling these?

#6214 35 days ago
Quoted from zucot:

Sorry if I missed it. Are you selling these?

No problem...I won’t be making these but I sent the design to Cliffy. I need to send the update to trim a bit off the top.

#6215 35 days ago

July Special @ M&M Creations!!!

We are offering the IJ RAMP MRS for $20 (plus shipping) from now until the end of July 15th! Simply PM me. That's $10 off the regular price - sale ends noon (EST) on 7/15. Click link below for earlier post showing pics of installation and function.

Thanks!

Matt & Dan

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/119#post-5628363

#6216 35 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

July Special @ M&M Creations!!!
We are offering the IJ RAMP MRS for $20 (plus shipping) from now until the end of July 15th! Simply PM me. That's $10 off the regular price - sale ends noon (EST) on 7/15. Click link below for earlier post showing pics of installation and function.
Thanks!
Matt & Dan
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/119#post-5628363

I’m a big fan of mine! Solved a previously unsolvable problem.

#6217 31 days ago

Going to give my playfield a full teardown and clean soon, and want to replace the regular bulbs for leds.
Thinking of doing this:

-GI= 2smd warm white frosted lens
-Inserts= 2smd warm white clear flat lens
-Backbox= really not sure what to do with the backbox, I guess warm white but not sure if clear dome/frosted dome/flat lens. Or should I go for a color set (white, red and yellow)?
-Flashers= 10smd wedge flashers cold white (but not sure if they fit in the domes, and 8 smd cold white bajonet flashers

I don't want to distort the art, so any advice if this would work would be appreciated

#6218 31 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Going to give my playfield a full teardown and clean soon, and want to replace the regular bulbs for leds.
Thinking of doing this:
-GI= 2smd warm white frosted lens
-Inserts= 2smd warm white clear flat lens
-Backbox= really not sure what to do with the backbox, I guess warm white but not sure if clear dome/frosted dome/flat lens. Or should I go for a color set (white, red and yellow)?
-Flashers= 10smd wedge flashers cold white (but not sure if they fit in the domes, and 8 smd cold white bajonet flashers
I don't want to distort the art, so any advice if this would work would be appreciated

I’ve found that frosted looks best on inserts as well. I only used clear on the small bonus arrows.

2SMD frosted for back box no color... warm or sunlight.

5SMD towers or incandescents are best for flashers.

#6219 31 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’ve found that frosted looks best on inserts as well. I only used clear on the small bonus arrows.
2SMD frosted for back box no color... warm or sunlight.
5SMD towers or incandescents are best for flashers.

I’m a warm white all around person, but for IJ the backbox it is so yellow as it is, that Sunlight gives it a bit more depth and contrast.

#6220 31 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’ve found that frosted looks best on inserts as well. I only used clear on the small bonus arrows.
2SMD frosted for back box no color... warm or sunlight.
5SMD towers or incandescents are best for flashers.

Thank you!

Quoted from okgrak:

I’m a warm white all around person, but for IJ the backbox it is so yellow as it is, that Sunlight gives it a bit more depth and contrast.

Thank you! But ordering in the USA sucks due to the shipping costs, and the 21% taxes on top that our country takes
So I prefer to order in Europe when possible, but I don't know if there is a shop with something similar to the Comet sunlight ones..

#6221 30 days ago

Hello IJ Williams Owners -

I'm having a small issue that I cannot figure out and was hoping someone has seen it and can give me some guidance. I was playing a game this evening and during Well of Souls mode I was draining a ton of balls into the ball lock area for the big points. At some point during the barrage of balls that entered into the ball lock, the Ball Trough Assembly (A-16317) didn't release them all to the Idol and the game thought I had balls left that never made it back in play. Apparently the ball(s) were stuck in the tray under the ball lock. After subsequently going into test mode I was able to have the ball(s) that didn't make it through released and all was well again.

But now about every 3rd or 4th ball lock, it doesn't make it's way to the idol. All other times it does though...which is strange to see the inconsistent behavior. Subsequent to the ball not releasing to the pop up area, I can hear the solenoid attempting to pop the ball up over and over again as it expects the ball to have been released. To make matters more entertaining, if its a ball 3 lock, the game gets confused and starts the music and light show multiple times as it thinks the balls should be being released when they are not. Eventually the stuck ball makes its way through, and then the problem repeats after a few more successful ball locks.

What's very odd is that sometimes I hear the solenoid trying to pop up a ball up into the idol even when all balls are all in the bottom trough already or already in play. I even heard the solenoid popping during attract mode a few times right after the problem appeared!

No errors in the program, no issues with the operation of the solenoids in the test menu. All wiring looks clean and intact. I also cleaned both sets of optos in the A-16317 trough. Cycling the power didn't help either. To me this sounds like the optos may be bad? I'll change the fuse tomorrow at F103 and inspect the main driver board for any issues but after those troubleshooting steps I'm out of ideas besides replacing the optos.

Any advice is highly appreciated! Last time I had a weird issue like this it was in the bottom trough and it was solved by performing a ball drop into the bottom trough while in Tests - Switch Edge. I'm hoping it's something simple like that...

#6222 30 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Williams Owners -
I'm having a small issue that I cannot figure out and was hoping someone has seen it and can give me some guidance. I was playing a game this evening and during Well of Souls mode I was draining a ton of balls into the ball lock area for the big points. At some point during the barrage of balls that entered into the ball lock, the Ball Trough Assembly (A-16317) didn't release them all to the Idol and the game thought I had balls left that never made it back in play. Apparently the ball(s) were stuck in the tray under the ball lock. After subsequently going into test mode I was able to have the ball(s) that didn't make it through released and all was well again.
But now about every 3rd or 4th ball lock, it doesn't make it's way to the idol. All other times it does though...which is strange to see the inconsistent behavior. Subsequent to the ball not releasing to the pop up area, I can hear the solenoid attempting to pop the ball up over and over again as it expects the ball to have been released. To make matters more entertaining, if its a ball 3 lock, the game gets confused and starts the music and light show multiple times as it thinks the balls should be being released when they are not. Eventually the stuck ball makes its way through, and then the problem repeats after a few more successful ball locks.
What's very odd is that sometimes I hear the solenoid trying to pop up a ball up into the idol even when all balls are all in the bottom trough already or already in play. I even heard the solenoid popping during attract mode a few times right after the problem appeared!
No errors in the program, no issues with the operation of the solenoids in the test menu. All wiring looks clean and intact. I also cleaned both sets of optos in the A-16317 trough. Cycling the power didn't help either. To me this sounds like the optos may be bad? I'll change the fuse tomorrow at F103 and inspect the main driver board for any issues but after those troubleshooting steps I'm out of ideas besides replacing the optos.
Any advice is highly appreciated! Last time I had a weird issue like this it was in the bottom trough and it was solved by performing a ball drop into the bottom trough while in Tests - Switch Edge. I'm hoping it's something simple like that...

On the surface this seems like an optic issue. Either intermittent transmitters, dirty receivers or something with the optic board itself. There are two sets in the trough, one on enter and another on eject. This is of course the captain obvious recommendation

#6223 30 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

On the surface this seems like an optic issue. Either intermittent transmitters, dirty receivers or something with the optic board itself. There are two sets in the trough, one on enter and another on eject. This is of course the captain obvious recommendation

Thanks ricochet for helping confirm my thoughts that it is the optos. I luckily had a spare set from Marco’s laying around and I simply tried replacing each of the three sets under the trough area one at a time until finding the culprit. After getting to the ball release solenoid directly under the idol and swapping those optos out the problem has seemed to be eradicated. I will obviously test the hell out of it today but I triggered a well of souls mode and rolled about 10 balls through the ball lock successfully.

This is the second time I’ve had a set of optos fail on me, the other set was on the POA. Is it common for these to fail regularly? I feel like I should have at least a few sets on hand as backup.

#6224 30 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Thanks ricochet for helping confirm my thoughts that it is the optos. I luckily had a spare set from Marco’s laying around and I simply tried replacing each of the three sets under the trough area one at a time until finding the culprit. After getting to the ball release solenoid directly under the idol and swapping those optos out the problem has seemed to be eradicated. I will obviously test the hell out of it today but I triggered a well of souls mode and rolled about 10 balls through the ball lock successfully.
This is the second time I’ve had a set of optos fail on me, the other set was on the POA. Is it common for these to fail regularly? I feel like I should have at least a few sets on hand as backup.

It seems that the transmitters run a little hot and they are beginning to show their life span on these pins

When I restored my machine a friend of mine recommended I just go and replace the optos on the assemblies that are a pain to get to once it’s all back together... because they do fail. It was good advice.

#6225 26 days ago

Hey fellow IJ fans!

If you missed out on the first round of my shiny Lost Treasure target decals, I've just got a bunch more in if you're interested!
Target Decals
I've upgraded my process, so now instead of hand-punching the backing foam, everything is machine cut for maximum precision. I know you don't care about that, but maaaan...what a lifesaver. I can't tell you what a time-sucking pain it was carefully cutting all those backing rings by hand.

Since this pin has golden treasures worked into the theme, I really dig having extra metallic accents in there. I wonder if there are any other pins that could benefit from this treatment?

#6226 26 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Since this pin has golden treasures worked into the theme, I really dig having extra metallic accents in there. I wonder if there are any other pins that could benefit from this treatment?

Tales of the Arabian Nights.
The Shadow.
Black Rose.
Judge Dredd.

#6227 26 days ago

Ooooh...I really like TOTAN. Good call.
And I love the phurba dagger from The Shadow, though I've barely played that one. There was one for play locally, pre-pandemic, so I wonder if it's still around? I've always wanted to take a Shadow and convert it into a custom Uncharted pin, much to the horror of Shadow fans.
Black Rose I really don't know at all, but I think I'll investigate a bit. I do love a good pirate theme.

#6228 26 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Hey fellow IJ fans!
If you missed out on the first round of my shiny Lost Treasure target decals, I've just got a bunch more in if you're interested!
[quoted image]
I've upgraded my process, so now instead of hand-punching the backing foam, everything is machine cut for maximum precision. I know you don't care about that, but maaaan...what a lifesaver. I can't tell you what a time-sucking pain it was carefully cutting all those backing rings by hand.
Since this pin has golden treasures worked into the theme, I really dig having extra metallic accents in there. I wonder if there are any other pins that could benefit from this treatment?

These really look nice !

#6229 24 days ago

Cliffy now has my right outlane guide! He sent me one !!! He elongated the mounting holes a bit so it gives you a little adjustment.

7140C000-23AF-4F22-A17C-E79348DB7BFD (resized).jpeg

#6230 24 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Cliffy now has my right outlane guide! He sent me one !!! He elongated the mounting holes a bit so it gives you a little adjustment.
[quoted image]

Looks great

#6231 24 days ago

Working on proto 1 of the deflector ... blue bumper is an experiment

Not done yet... trying to get the angles right without violating the height limit.

55BC6023-5A16-4980-A112-825F5BA830A9 (resized).jpeg93EFA78E-50D9-415F-BEAC-34B855FA1912 (resized).jpeg

#6232 24 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Working on proto 1 of the deflector ... blue bumper is an experiment
Not done yet... trying to get the angles right without violating the height limit.
[quoted image][quoted image]

They look promising....its deceiving how little room there is under there

#6233 24 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look promising....its deceiving how little room there is under there

The one on the left is factory equivalent.

Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else

I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

#6234 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The one on the left is factory equivalent.
Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else
I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

I see where your going on this. Assuming u utilize the existing mounting holes is there enough room for a ball to fit between the blue pad and the play field? I had problems on mine with I used a thicker pad.

#6235 23 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I see where your going on this. Assuming u utilize the existing mounting holes is there enough room for a ball to fit between the blue pad and the play field? I had problems on mine with I used a thicker pad.

Not done yet ... angle isn’t right. It needs to be more acute to work with the bumper... and I’m not sold on the bumper at this point. It will be easy to test with or without it.

#6236 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Not done yet ... angle isn’t right. It needs to be more acute to work with the bumper... and I’m not sold on the bumper at this point. It will be easy to test with or without it.

Gotcha!

#6237 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The one on the left is factory equivalent.
Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else
I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

If you are willing to remove the plastic, see my post #5860. 100% stick rate, existing part, use existing holes and no need to hassle with fabrication.

#6238 23 days ago
Quoted from Devo10:

If you are willing to remove the plastic, see my post #5860. 100% stick rate, existing part, use existing holes and no need to hassle with fabrication.

I was going to try that when I restored my game but I didn’t want to forfeit the plastic. Something could be done with a custom plastic piece but that ain’t my gig.

#6239 23 days ago

Once you start showing pics ...people get to thinking ... and I appreciate the input.

I’m hoping to be able to make it so it’s just a simple replacement part. The bumper was just a thought ... and I put the hole in the proto to test that thought. There just isn’t enough volume in the space for it... needless to say the setback angle would need to be so acute that using the mounting holes would not be possible. So it’s clearly a no go.

As you can see from these pics ... This is a more practical design. This (hi-Z) is one version of the Z deflector (the hole in the top is a residual from the bumper test... would not be there). I want to try a couple of these with differing upper bends. I’ve a V deflector as well but I’ve my doubts as to the practicality of the bends on that one. I will still give it a go if the Z design is a dud.

Bottom line is I’m after something effective, easy to make and cheap.

765667C7-5107-4A18-868A-2B2C0660897A (resized).jpeg86316EF1-7DDC-41D3-AE7E-6F23BAD1FB79 (resized).jpeg
35451EAD-CAE6-499F-BE44-3036FA822C6B (resized).jpeg

#6240 23 days ago

Has anyone tried using a magnet on the back of the original deflector? The strength of the magnet would be something that would need to be determined. If it's too strong, it could pull shots in that wouldn't normally make it. Too weak and it would be ineffective.

I would like to try it, but I have a lot of different projects going on, and I dread the idea of pulling off the POA.

#6241 23 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Has anyone tried using a magnet on the back of the original deflector? The strength of the magnet would be something that would need to be determined. If it's too strong, it could pull shots in that wouldn't normally make it. Too weak and it would be ineffective.
I would like to try it, but I have a lot of different projects going on, and I dread the idea of pulling off the POA.

Pulling off the POA really isn't that bad....

#6242 23 days ago

Another Z (lo-Z)

I think I’m going to try these today

0D72DF63-66C3-41C2-953F-C37BCB3BF423 (resized).jpeg

#6243 23 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Pulling off the POA really isn't that bad....

I should have said putting it back on and getting it aligned properly.

#6244 23 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I should have said putting it back on and getting it aligned properly.

Yea....after taking mine off and on several times trying to figure out the issue it turned out the problem was the opto board. I replaced it and my POA has been flawless sense.

#6245 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Another Z
I think I’m going to try these today
[quoted image]

They look promising....I can't imagine bending that steel is easy....I wonder if working with smaller gauge steel first would be a lot easier until u get the geometry right....

#6246 23 days ago

This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!

This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.

With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.

1BB9C3F1-691E-4A97-A4E5-C427BAE5FD6D (resized).jpeg

#6247 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!
This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.
With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.
[quoted image]

Nice! A reverse scoop.

Now we need slow motion videos to show the inertia being deflected upwards.

Thus dropping the ball in the hole.

#6248 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!
This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.
With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.
[quoted image]

Awesome....was all prepared to be a test case for u

#6249 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nice! A reverse scoop.
Now we need slow motion videos to show the inertia being deflected upwards.
Thus dropping the ball in the hole.

A pinball moves at about 1.5 meters per second.

It should be simple enough to rig up a piece of pipe or hose with a ramp or flap or curve on the end to make up a flipper simulator.

This way you can test from a variety of angles and speeds with a longer or shorter pipe or ball drop.

Pipe length should be about 1 to 1.5 meters

Maybe 1.25" to 1.5" pvc conduit with a 90 degree sweep on it

#6250 23 days ago

Tested lo-Z.... it’s a big fat nope!

Imma gonna leave the hi-Z proto in my machine and play some more.

pinballinreno I like the way you think!

48BFF688-73DA-4CB5-A0C5-40BE7B422C7D (resized).jpeg

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