Is the translite spoken for?

Nope. You can have it.

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.

They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.

Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.

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Looks factory!

Thanks! I was kind of bummed out it was a little too tall. Technically it's correct... its the plastic protector that creates the interference. I guess I forgot to check that w/proto 1.

Its nothing that 1 min on a sander cant fix.

Now you have to design an enclosed metal box to solve the mode rejects.

Something like the official fix (ala JJP style), but a total enclosure that you can just bolt up behind the hole.

I've got two protos in the works... stay tuned.

Im ready for it !

and me....

Maybe this is a weird idea: what about mirror polishing? It can create a nice dissapearing illusion.

I can certainly try that for fun !

Fantastic! Sending a pm

Sorry if I missed it. Are you selling these?

No problem...I won’t be making these but I sent the design to Cliffy. I need to send the update to trim a bit off the top.

July Special @ M&M Creations!!!

We are offering the IJ RAMP MRS for $20 (plus shipping) from now until the end of July 15th! Simply PM me. That's $10 off the regular price - sale ends noon (EST) on 7/15. Click link below for earlier post showing pics of installation and function.

Thanks!

Matt & Dan

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/119#post-5628363

I’m a big fan of mine! Solved a previously unsolvable problem.

Going to give my playfield a full teardown and clean soon, and want to replace the regular bulbs for leds.
Thinking of doing this:

-GI= 2smd warm white frosted lens
-Inserts= 2smd warm white clear flat lens
-Backbox= really not sure what to do with the backbox, I guess warm white but not sure if clear dome/frosted dome/flat lens. Or should I go for a color set (white, red and yellow)?
-Flashers= 10smd wedge flashers cold white (but not sure if they fit in the domes, and 8 smd cold white bajonet flashers

I don't want to distort the art, so any advice if this would work would be appreciated

I’ve found that frosted looks best on inserts as well. I only used clear on the small bonus arrows.

2SMD frosted for back box no color... warm or sunlight.

5SMD towers or incandescents are best for flashers.

I’m a warm white all around person, but for IJ the backbox it is so yellow as it is, that Sunlight gives it a bit more depth and contrast.

Thank you!

Thank you! But ordering in the USA sucks due to the shipping costs, and the 21% taxes on top that our country takes
So I prefer to order in Europe when possible, but I don't know if there is a shop with something similar to the Comet sunlight ones..

Hello IJ Williams Owners -

I'm having a small issue that I cannot figure out and was hoping someone has seen it and can give me some guidance. I was playing a game this evening and during Well of Souls mode I was draining a ton of balls into the ball lock area for the big points. At some point during the barrage of balls that entered into the ball lock, the Ball Trough Assembly (A-16317) didn't release them all to the Idol and the game thought I had balls left that never made it back in play. Apparently the ball(s) were stuck in the tray under the ball lock. After subsequently going into test mode I was able to have the ball(s) that didn't make it through released and all was well again.

But now about every 3rd or 4th ball lock, it doesn't make it's way to the idol. All other times it does though...which is strange to see the inconsistent behavior. Subsequent to the ball not releasing to the pop up area, I can hear the solenoid attempting to pop the ball up over and over again as it expects the ball to have been released. To make matters more entertaining, if its a ball 3 lock, the game gets confused and starts the music and light show multiple times as it thinks the balls should be being released when they are not. Eventually the stuck ball makes its way through, and then the problem repeats after a few more successful ball locks.

What's very odd is that sometimes I hear the solenoid trying to pop up a ball up into the idol even when all balls are all in the bottom trough already or already in play. I even heard the solenoid popping during attract mode a few times right after the problem appeared!

No errors in the program, no issues with the operation of the solenoids in the test menu. All wiring looks clean and intact. I also cleaned both sets of optos in the A-16317 trough. Cycling the power didn't help either. To me this sounds like the optos may be bad? I'll change the fuse tomorrow at F103 and inspect the main driver board for any issues but after those troubleshooting steps I'm out of ideas besides replacing the optos.

Any advice is highly appreciated! Last time I had a weird issue like this it was in the bottom trough and it was solved by performing a ball drop into the bottom trough while in Tests - Switch Edge. I'm hoping it's something simple like that...

On the surface this seems like an optic issue. Either intermittent transmitters, dirty receivers or something with the optic board itself. There are two sets in the trough, one on enter and another on eject. This is of course the captain obvious recommendation

Thanks Ricochet for helping confirm my thoughts that it is the optos. I luckily had a spare set from Marco’s laying around and I simply tried replacing each of the three sets under the trough area one at a time until finding the culprit. After getting to the ball release solenoid directly under the idol and swapping those optos out the problem has seemed to be eradicated. I will obviously test the hell out of it today but I triggered a well of souls mode and rolled about 10 balls through the ball lock successfully.

This is the second time I’ve had a set of optos fail on me, the other set was on the POA. Is it common for these to fail regularly? I feel like I should have at least a few sets on hand as backup.

It seems that the transmitters run a little hot and they are beginning to show their life span on these pins

When I restored my machine a friend of mine recommended I just go and replace the optos on the assemblies that are a pain to get to once it’s all back together... because they do fail. It was good advice.

Hey fellow IJ fans!

If you missed out on the first round of my shiny Lost Treasure target decals, I've just got a bunch more in if you're interested!
Target Decals
I've upgraded my process, so now instead of hand-punching the backing foam, everything is machine cut for maximum precision. I know you don't care about that, but maaaan...what a lifesaver. I can't tell you what a time-sucking pain it was carefully cutting all those backing rings by hand.

Since this pin has golden treasures worked into the theme, I really dig having extra metallic accents in there. I wonder if there are any other pins that could benefit from this treatment?

Tales of the Arabian Nights.
The Shadow.
Black Rose.
Judge Dredd.

Ooooh...I really like TOTAN. Good call.
And I love the phurba dagger from The Shadow, though I've barely played that one. There was one for play locally, pre-pandemic, so I wonder if it's still around? I've always wanted to take a Shadow and convert it into a custom Uncharted pin, much to the horror of Shadow fans.
Black Rose I really don't know at all, but I think I'll investigate a bit. I do love a good pirate theme.

These really look nice !

Cliffy now has my right outlane guide! He sent me one !!! He elongated the mounting holes a bit so it gives you a little adjustment.

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Looks great

Working on proto 1 of the deflector ... blue bumper is an experiment

Not done yet... trying to get the angles right without violating the height limit.

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They look promising....its deceiving how little room there is under there

The one on the left is factory equivalent.

Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else

I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

I see where your going on this. Assuming u utilize the existing mounting holes is there enough room for a ball to fit between the blue pad and the play field? I had problems on mine with I used a thicker pad.

Not done yet ... angle isn’t right. It needs to be more acute to work with the bumper... and I’m not sold on the bumper at this point. It will be easy to test with or without it.

Gotcha!

If you are willing to remove the plastic, see my post #5860. 100% stick rate, existing part, use existing holes and no need to hassle with fabrication.

I was going to try that when I restored my game but I didn’t want to forfeit the plastic. Something could be done with a custom plastic piece but that ain’t my gig.

Once you start showing pics ...people get to thinking ... and I appreciate the input.

I’m hoping to be able to make it so it’s just a simple replacement part. The bumper was just a thought ... and I put the hole in the proto to test that thought. There just isn’t enough volume in the space for it... needless to say the setback angle would need to be so acute that using the mounting holes would not be possible. So it’s clearly a no go.

As you can see from these pics ... This is a more practical design. This (hi-Z) is one version of the Z deflector (the hole in the top is a residual from the bumper test... would not be there). I want to try a couple of these with differing upper bends. I’ve a V deflector as well but I’ve my doubts as to the practicality of the bends on that one. I will still give it a go if the Z design is a dud.

Bottom line is I’m after something effective, easy to make and cheap.

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Has anyone tried using a magnet on the back of the original deflector? The strength of the magnet would be something that would need to be determined. If it's too strong, it could pull shots in that wouldn't normally make it. Too weak and it would be ineffective.

I would like to try it, but I have a lot of different projects going on, and I dread the idea of pulling off the POA.

Pulling off the POA really isn't that bad....

Another Z (lo-Z)

I think I’m going to try these today

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I should have said putting it back on and getting it aligned properly.

Yea....after taking mine off and on several times trying to figure out the issue it turned out the problem was the opto board. I replaced it and my POA has been flawless sense.

They look promising....I can't imagine bending that steel is easy....I wonder if working with smaller gauge steel first would be a lot easier until u get the geometry right....

This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!

This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.

With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.

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Nice! A reverse scoop.

Now we need slow motion videos to show the inertia being deflected upwards.

Thus dropping the ball in the hole.

Awesome....was all prepared to be a test case for u

A pinball moves at about 1.5 meters per second.

It should be simple enough to rig up a piece of pipe or hose with a ramp or flap or curve on the end to make up a flipper simulator.

This way you can test from a variety of angles and speeds with a longer or shorter pipe or ball drop.

Pipe length should be about 1 to 1.5 meters

Maybe 1.25" to 1.5" pvc conduit with a 90 degree sweep on it

Tested lo-Z.... it’s a big fat nope!

Imma gonna leave the hi-Z proto in my machine and play some more.

pinballinreno I like the way you think!

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