(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by RobDutch
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#6151 18 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Any advice on what to do with this playfield and insert damage?
I'm planning on keeping the game, so I would like to bulletproof and protect it
Mylar at the sling shots?
Mylar at the spots where the balls drop from the ramps?
Cliffy (?) for wear near droptargets?
New insert decals?
Playfield protector?
Any advice would be appreciated

I don't know about the playfield repair, but I'd recommend a set of Cliffy's (mode hole, 3-drop bank, and single drop at minimum), and a full set of plastic protectors to prevent further plastics from shattering.

Back in the wild west days, when advice was scattered and we only had rec.games.pinball to keep us warm, I used acrylic paint and Krazy Glue to fix minor chips in my playfield. Some may think that's a crazy hack job, but with a good colour match and a careful polish, you'd never see it unless I pointed it out. Others probably have better advice, so take mine with a grain of salt.

#6152 18 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I don't know about your first question, but for the second - yeah, the post is almost always up, unless you're in a mode that specifically bypasses the POA. But, if you make the right ramp when the POA isn't lit, the diverter should prevent you from even going up there? Hitting the right ramp should always feed down the right habittrail, unless POA is lit, or it's multiball, or something like the rope bridge mode is active.
I'm no electomagician, but when that post is down, I think that's when the coil is active - so if it were down most of the time, it'd probably burn out.

Mystery solved. The diverter wasn't working correctly because the plastic on top of it was so tight it was preventing the diverter from moving the whole time. Game seems to playing 100% (For now...)

#6153 18 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello - I'm new to Indy, but the Cliffy's are highly recommended especially behind the drop targets. My playfield had a very small fix done in the same spot as yours next to Marion that the previous owner did. He added mylar in front of the sling shots which stopped further damage from happening.

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I don't know about the playfield repair, but I'd recommend a set of Cliffy's (mode hole, 3-drop bank, and single drop at minimum), and a full set of plastic protectors to prevent further plastics from shattering.
Back in the wild west days, when advice was scattered and we only had rec.games.pinball to keep us warm, I used acrylic paint and Krazy Glue to fix minor chips in my playfield. Some may think that's a crazy hack job, but with a good colour match and a careful polish, you'd never see it unless I pointed it out. Others probably have better advice, so take mine with a grain of salt.

Thank you both!
I've just ordered the full set of protectors including the ramp protectors from Cliffy
Also bought switch sloth protectors.

Will add mylar for the slingshots, in front of the droptargets and where the balls drop from the ramps.

#6154 18 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Also bought switch sloth protectors.

*Visible Confusion*
WTF is a switch sloth?

#6155 17 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

*Visible Confusion*
[quoted image]

Switch slot oops

#6156 17 days ago

I picked up an IJ and the ball won't drop down to the POA, it just rolls right on through the ramp. Does anything look off here or do I just need to increase the pitch?

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#6157 17 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I picked up an IJ and the ball won't drop down to the POA, it just rolls right on through the ramp. Does anything look off here or do I just need to increase the pitch?
[quoted image]

Well for starters, the metal tab right next to the drop pin is bent WAAAAAAAY too far out. Mine points to the first screw top on the mini PF. Bend it to the left and then report back

Edit: And it does appear your pitch may be too straight with the ramp but it's hard to tell from the picture since we don't know if the playfield is straight or not.

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#6158 17 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Well for starters, the metal tab right next to the drop pin is bent WAAAAAAAY too far out. Mine points to the first screw top on the mini PF. Bend it to the left and then report back

Agreed!

#6159 17 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I picked up an IJ and the ball won't drop down to the POA, it just rolls right on through the ramp. Does anything look off here or do I just need to increase the pitch?

More pitch, or bend the shelf down a bit so the ball rolls downhill onto the POA.

LTG : )

#6160 17 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I picked up an IJ and the ball won't drop down to the POA, it just rolls right on through the ramp. Does anything look off here or do I just need to increase the pitch?

Does it behave normally otherwise? When POA is lit, does the ball go up the ramp, across the bridge, and get held at the post? Does the post drop, intending to release the ball into the POA, but instead keep rolling left? This should be easy enough to see - if the ball rests at the back of the metal shelf instead of the front, then clearly it's just your pitch, or the mounting for the shelf is bent funny.

Everyone else is already on top of the bending situation, but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a mechanical issue - i.e. the ball does NOT stop at the post or the post is down when it should be up.

#6161 17 days ago

Thanks guys. The ball stops at the post, then when it drops, the ball continues on left across the ramp. I'll bend that tab back and give it a bit more pitch.

#6162 17 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Thanks guys. The ball stops at the post, then when it drops, the ball continues on left across the ramp. I'll bend that tab back and give it a bit more pitch.

Not sure what others are at, but my pitch is at 6.8 ....

#6163 17 days ago

Prototyped the right outlane ball guide.

I put extra length on it to give it a bend to make a soft edge for when the post is all the way to the right. Welp with the plastic on there ... it’s just not necessary. I’m gonna rev it to get rid of the bend and extra material.

I think it looks good (except for the tape that’s holding it)... and it serves a real purpose.

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#6164 17 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Thanks guys. The ball stops at the post, then when it drops, the ball continues on left across the ramp. I'll bend that tab back and give it a bit more pitch.

... also check the stand-off that is holding the long exit ramp on the left... be sure it’s all the way screwed into it’s t-nut. It also should be a M-F 3.25” standoff. There are two long standoffs on this machine. That one and the F-F 3.5” one for the metal ramp...make sure you have the correct length. Even though they are different and should not be able to be mixed up... sometimes people make things fit.

#6165 17 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Prototyped the right outlane ball guide.
I put extra length on it to give it a bend to make a soft edge for when the post is all the way to the right. Welp with the plastic on there ... it’s just not necessary. I’m gonna rev it to get rid of the bend and extra material.
I think it looks good (except for the tape that’s holding it)... and it serves a real purpose.

Ah! Expertly done! As it should have been from day one.
BXvpnWt.gif

#6166 17 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Prototyped the right outlane ball guide.
I put extra length on it to give it a bend to make a soft edge for when the post is all the way to the right. Welp with the plastic on there ... it’s just not necessary. I’m gonna rev it to get rid of the bend and extra material.
I think it looks good (except for the tape that’s holding it)... and it serves a real purpose.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow great work....

#6167 17 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Wow great work....

The bends aren’t crisp ... but I didn’t care this time around.

#6168 16 days ago

I just finished my last tweaks to the right outlane ball guide. I've sent it to Cliffy and let him have it... although this is such a trivial bit of work he could have turned it out in a millisecond. None the less ... if it's something people want the demand will drive its availability. I'm not going to get in the business of making them... I was going to but I just don't have the bandwidth... sad but true.

#6169 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I just finished my last tweaks to the right outlane ball guide. I've sent it to Cliffy and let him have it... although this is such a trivial bit of work he could have turned it out in a millisecond. None the less ... if it's something people want the demand will drive its availability. I'm not going to get in the business of making them... I was going to but I just don't have the bandwidth... sad but true.

What issue does this prevent/address?

#6170 16 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

What issue does this prevent/address?

It does two things...

#1 it stops the ball from missing the outlane switch ... which can happen when it bounces through the outlane. Thereby eliminating the Narrow Escape reward on drain.

#2 aesthetically it fills that void ... Makes it look more like the left outlane.

Small potatoes... but while I was dialing in my game ... it was something that bugged me. There is evidence in the manual that two posts were to be there... but the stainless ball guide looks better IMHO

#6171 16 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

What issue does this prevent/address?

Draining down the right outlane on my machine misses this switch about half of the time. This is a very welcome fix, except for my wife, who counts this accidental "Narrow Escape" reward as one of her highest-scoring pinball 'shots.'

#6172 16 days ago

Thanks. I've got a pending order with Cliff and hit him up to add this piece. Also fixed my "ball passing the POA entrance" issue above by jacking up the rear leg levelers. Looking forward to putting in some time on this game.

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#6173 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I just finished my last tweaks to the right outlane ball guide. I've sent it to Cliffy and let him have it... although this is such a trivial bit of work he could have turned it out in a millisecond. None the less ... if it's something people want the demand will drive its availability. I'm not going to get in the business of making them... I was going to but I just don't have the bandwidth... sad but true.

Great idea I'll stop by his house and bug him for one

#6174 16 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Great idea I'll stop by his house and bug him for one

Yeah someone told me they lived close ... and gave me the idea

#6175 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah someone told me they lived close ... and gave me the idea

Ha...do you have drill new holes into the play field ? Sorry I didn't look close enough at the design .... If u didn't want to make and sell them I would have asked for the design template and gave it to Cliff to make (with your permission of course)....

#6176 16 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Ha...do you have drill new holes into the play field ? Sorry I didn't look close enough at the design .... If u didn't want to make and sell them I would have asked for the design template and gave it to Cliff to make (with your permission of course)....

Yes you do. 2 of them. This is something that I had to come to grips with. I think the aesthetic of it beats the hesitation to drill. But it’s certainly a personal issue/choice with this mod.

#6177 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes you do. 2 of them. This is something that I had to come to grips with. I think the aesthetic of it beats the hesitation to drill. But it’s certainly a personal issue.

No big deal....u can't see them anyways....thanks for solving this problem for everyone

#6178 15 days ago

Here's the deal on this Narrow Escape fixes...You really have two options here:

+ You can change your micro-switch actuator. This is a non intrusive fix. You have to make sure it is properly aligned in the slot... may require a bit of manipulation of the actuator (no big deal).

+ You can go with the metal ball guide. This does require two screws.

I like the aesthetic of the metal ball guide, it is my preference even though its a permanent more intrusive change.

Or do nothing... no big deal.

Totally up to you.

#6179 15 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello Everyone!
I wanted to give a shout-out to jenk540i for his start mode modification idea. I know this topic has been debated at length (I have read through the posts about it)...so for those of us who prefer to keep the deflector installed but want a higher % of shots from the right flipper to stick, my results are as follows:
No mods:
30% stick rate from the right flipper
Drilled out the holes in the deflector to move it back 1/4 inch, raised up the deflector slightly with some washers, and added the Cliffy protector:
65% stick rate from the right flipper
Added a small foam rubber protector as recommended by jenk540i (cost less than a buck and took 6 seconds to install), and I don't see it unless I bend down low and look for it:
90% stick rate from the right flipper (small sample size, will play more over the weekend to see but looks promising so far)
TBH, I didn't want the 100% stick rate...but I don't want 30% either, and 65% was a little more frustrating than I thought it would be. 90% seems like the perfect success rate for my liking.
Yes I know removing the deflector and lining the area with drop dead foam will give you ~99% stick rate...but that is not what I wanted. I wanted the thud, AND I enjoy the risk of losing around 1/10 fast right flipper shots. It's worth the few cents and few seconds to try it out if you are looking for a higher success rate without removing the deflector. It also does not affect the ball release path when ejecting out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/very-effective-fix-for-ij-mode-start-problem
[quoted image]

Hello IJ Williams Owners!

I wanted to give a quick update on this particular start mode fix. After about a month or so, I've gone through 3 of these pads already. While they work quite well, they are slightly too thick that after repetitive ball striking the pad starts to split and tear, and then needs to be replaced. I would say my best estimate is around 150-250 Mode Start entrances before it needs to be replaced due to damage. Last night in an attempt to find a longer lasting solution, I tried a different pad:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00

This one is slightly thinner and is actually slightly more dense and feels stronger. I plan to fully document the amount of strikes it can take, as well as the effectiveness over the next month. While it is early, the results are very promising. I just waxed the playfield so I figured it would be a good opportunity to try the smaller and slightly thinner pad. So I played a few rounds after waxing and the ball was flying as fast as possible. I also purposely tried to focus on blasting shots with the right flipper to see the stick rate on those shots, rather than focusing on the softer left flipper shot which we know will stick no matter what. I was blown away...while a small sample size, I have had 49/50 stick so far. Like I said, I was blasting the hell out of the ball and very early results show 95+%. What's even better is I inspected the pad after the 50th strike and there is no signs of tearing or damage....yet. In a month I'll know more.

#6180 14 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Williams Owners!
I wanted to give a quick update on this particular start mode fix. After about a month or so, I've gone through 3 of these pads already. While they work quite well, they are slightly too thick that after repetitive ball striking the pad starts to split and tear, and then needs to be replaced. I would say my best estimate is around 150-250 Mode Start entrances before it needs to be replaced due to damage. Last night in an attempt to find a longer lasting solution, I tried a different pad:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00
This one is slightly thinner and is actually slightly more dense and feels stronger. I plan to fully document the amount of strikes it can take, as well as the effectiveness over the next month. While it is early, the results are very promising. I just waxed the playfield so I figured it would be a good opportunity to try the smaller and slightly thinner pad. So I played a few rounds after waxing and the ball was flying as fast as possible. I also purposely tried to focus on blasting shots with the right flipper to see the stick rate on those shots, rather than focusing on the softer left flipper shot which we know will stick no matter what. I was blown away...while a small sample size, I have had 49/50 stick so far. Like I said, I was blasting the hell out of the ball and very early results show 95+%. What's even better is I inspected the pad after the 50th strike and there is no signs of tearing or damage....yet. In a month I'll know more.

I have been using this high density foam, amazon.com link »
and it has worked well so far. I have not kept count on how many timers I have shot the mode hole but it has been holding up well for the last 10 months. This has been discussed a few times or more in this thread and is what originally caused me to research and try this method. Good luck...

Capture (resized).PNG
#6181 14 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Williams Owners!
I wanted to give a quick update on this particular start mode fix. After about a month or so, I've gone through 3 of these pads already. While they work quite well, they are slightly too thick that after repetitive ball striking the pad starts to split and tear, and then needs to be replaced. I would say my best estimate is around 150-250 Mode Start entrances before it needs to be replaced due to damage. Last night in an attempt to find a longer lasting solution, I tried a different pad:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00
This one is slightly thinner and is actually slightly more dense and feels stronger. I plan to fully document the amount of strikes it can take, as well as the effectiveness over the next month. While it is early, the results are very promising. I just waxed the playfield so I figured it would be a good opportunity to try the smaller and slightly thinner pad. So I played a few rounds after waxing and the ball was flying as fast as possible. I also purposely tried to focus on blasting shots with the right flipper to see the stick rate on those shots, rather than focusing on the softer left flipper shot which we know will stick no matter what. I was blown away...while a small sample size, I have had 49/50 stick so far. Like I said, I was blasting the hell out of the ball and very early results show 95+%. What's even better is I inspected the pad after the 50th strike and there is no signs of tearing or damage....yet. In a month I'll know more.

I have tried both EVA and neoprene closed-cell foam in different thicknesses.
Neoprene is rubber, dense, and very durable. EVA doesn't hold up to abuse as well long term.
Both are available on Amazon, but obviously my recommendation is neoprene.

#6182 14 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I have tried both EVA and neoprene closed-cell foam in different thicknesses.
Neoprene is rubber, dense, and very durable. EVA doesn't hold up to abuse as well long term.
Both are available on Amazon, but obviously my recommendation is neoprene.

Remove the mode hole stop, then put that stuff on the ball guides behind. You have to remove the mode hole stop of you wanna stick the shot constantly.

#6183 14 days ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Remove the mode hole stop, then put that stuff on the ball guides behind. You have to remove the mode hole stop of you wanna stick the shot constantly.

It should be mentioned again that, if you do this, it would be wise to at least have a plastic protector for the mode start plastic.
Without the deflector, when the ball is kicked out of the mode hole there is no longer anything to stop it from bashing against the plastic above. And if you don't have this plastic at all, the ball kicks right up and hits the underside of the POA.

The deflector isn't just for the ball on the way *in*, it's also supposed to be the first thing the ball hits on the way *out*.

#6184 14 days ago

To those who are just tuning in...

Let us take a trip back in time...to the distant year of two months ago! This is when we last discussed the mode hole issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5615760
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/117#post-5611306

This should help you catch up - and with pictures!

#6185 14 days ago

Another option I have seen is to shift (down, 1/8") the eject shield, the solenoid bracket, and the microswitch bracket - and keep the deflector.
It works with high success rate (based on my experience).
The extension has the same color as the eject shield, that's why it's hardly visible above the shield.
20200627_103556 (resized).jpg

#6186 14 days ago

Hey guys, my goal of the update on the pad was not to restart the argument of which fix is best, it was meant to help those who are looking for a very quick, non-intrusive added boost to your success rate of the mode start hole. There are many complete solutions out there, and at the moment the one I described is my current favorite for me on my machine. The pad is half the size of an M&M, costs $.22, and takes 30 seconds to install (of which 25 seconds is removing and replacing the playfield glass). Again, there are lots of solutions out there that work...but for me, I’m hoping that this pad (plus my existing adjustments) will be my permanent fix.

1- bend deflector forward slightly to ensure a nice 45 degree angle
2- Move deflector back 1/4 inch
3- raise deflector 1/4 inch with washers
4- add small pad and HOPE to not have to change it for as long as possible

#6187 14 days ago

I’m working on a new deflector design.

I truly think it has to be a V shape in order to redirect the perpendicular energy inward. I looked at other deflectors and wouldn’t you know it ... on SWEP1 there is a design like this. It has a rubber pad on each side to dampen the momentum. It’s quite a bit larger than the one on Indy so it won’t work as a substitute... bummer.

Mine will be inspired by this design.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23034
7D145651-F0AF-4DA7-BDAB-0F5F06C07817 (resized).jpeg

It's a pretty tight space... not much room for improvement, but will see what can be done.

If anyone is interested in testing ... LMK. I don’t really feel like tearing down my machine yet... It took me 2 years to put it back together... the thought taking it apart is depressing.... plus I'm kinda limited on time. I figure I'll get this started because its not terribly complex.

#6188 12 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I installed lights on my idol....love the look....thanks for the idea Korn [quoted image]

Can you show me where this idea is shared and how to do it? It looks great!

#6189 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m working on a new deflector design.
I truly think it has to be a V shape in order to redirect the perpendicular energy inward. I looked at other deflectors and wouldn’t you know it ... on SWEP1 there is a design like this. It has a rubber pad on each side to dampen the momentum. It’s quite a bit larger than the one on Indy so it won’t work as a substitute... bummer.
Mine will be inspired by this design.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23034
[quoted image]
It's a pretty tight space... not much room for improvement, but will see what can be done.
If anyone is interested in testing ... LMK. I don’t really feel like tearing down my machine yet... It took me 2 years to put it back together... the thought taking it apart is depressing.... plus I'm kinda limited on time. I figure I'll get this started because its not terribly complex.

Quick draft of my thoughts on this (it is literally a doodle... no numbers)... It will be 16 gauge stainless. I'm going to try and widen it a bit because when it is bent it will pull in some (there is about 1/8" on each side of play)

I've a few sizes of rubber bumpers coming from marco that I'm going to try. I'm hoping they wont be needed but if they work and improve the performance I may just go with them.
ij-deflector (resized).png

#6190 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Quick draft of my thoughts on this (it is literally a doodle... no numbers)... It will be 16 gauge stainless. I'm going to try and widen it a bit because when it is bent it will pull in some (there is about 1/8" on each side of play)
I've a few sizes of rubber bumpers coming from marco that I'm going to try. I'm hoping they wont be needed but if they work and improve the performance I may just go with them.
[quoted image]

Looks good....are u utilizing the existing mounting holes? Do you think 16 gauge is rigid enough to take a beating? or is the thought that the steel would absorb /deflect upon impact ?

#6191 11 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Looks good....are u utilizing the existing mounting holes? Do you think 16 gauge is rigid enough to take a beating? or is the thought that the steel would absorb /deflect upon impact ?

Yes (i will only use two of them) and yes .. the one I have measures out to 16 gauge-ish (it's actually closer to 14 now that I look at it... however I probably will try 16 first just to make it easy to bend).

Due to its angled design it will sit back a bit more than the original... I'm hoping that will be advantageous.

#6192 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes (i will only use two of them) and yes .. the one I have measures out to 16 gauge-ish.
Due to its angled design it will sit back a bit more than the original... I'm hoping that will be advantageous.

I think with the addition of the pads the protector will need to sit back a little. When u get close I can bring the design over to Cliff and have him make up a couple proto types for testing.

#6193 11 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I think with the addition of the pads the protector will need to sit back a little. When u get close I can bring the design over to Cliff and have him make up a couple proto types for testing.

I'm going to roll the first few... I will likely have a couple of models to try. Once we've proven the best possible improvement... then we can turn it over. No sense in burdening folks with early prototype work. Still don't have a clue if this will work better... or worse

#6194 9 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Williams Owners!
I wanted to give a quick update on this particular start mode fix. After about a month or so, I've gone through 3 of these pads already. While they work quite well, they are slightly too thick that after repetitive ball striking the pad starts to split and tear, and then needs to be replaced. I would say my best estimate is around 150-250 Mode Start entrances before it needs to be replaced due to damage. Last night in an attempt to find a longer lasting solution, I tried a different pad:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00
This one is slightly thinner and is actually slightly more dense and feels stronger. I plan to fully document the amount of strikes it can take, as well as the effectiveness over the next month. While it is early, the results are very promising. I just waxed the playfield so I figured it would be a good opportunity to try the smaller and slightly thinner pad. So I played a few rounds after waxing and the ball was flying as fast as possible. I also purposely tried to focus on blasting shots with the right flipper to see the stick rate on those shots, rather than focusing on the softer left flipper shot which we know will stick no matter what. I was blown away...while a small sample size, I have had 49/50 stick so far. Like I said, I was blasting the hell out of the ball and very early results show 95+%. What's even better is I inspected the pad after the 50th strike and there is no signs of tearing or damage....yet. In a month I'll know more.

Hello IJ Owners!

First, I'm super excited that ricochet is making a new deflector! Definitely put me down for 1 when they are in production, as this would eliminate the need for me to use a pad.

Ok so I wanted to provide a quick update. I tracked 150 mode start shots...most of which were fast shots off of the right flipper. Final results were 96% stick rate. However, I decided to inspect the pad at this point and noticed it was tearing. It looked like it had about 50-100 more hits left before it would completely tear. So...not much improvement over the previous pad. I plan to stick with this new one though, as it is smaller, thinner, and blends better...while holding a high % success rate. The ultimate solution is a new deflector that keeps the ball from popping out of the scoop, while at the same time allowing a clean release from it.

#6195 9 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Owners!
First, I'm super excited that ricochet is making a new deflector! Definitely put me down for 1 when they are in production, as this would eliminate the need for me to use a pad.
Ok so I wanted to provide a quick update. I tracked 150 mode start shots...most of which were fast shots off of the right flipper. Final results were 96% stick rate. However, I decided to inspect the pad at this point and noticed it was tearing. It looked like it had about 50-100 more hits left before it would completely tear. So...not much improvement over the previous pad. I plan to stick with this new one though, as it is smaller, thinner, and blends better...while holding a high % success rate. The ultimate solution is a new deflector that keeps the ball from popping out of the scoop, while at the same time allowing a clean release from it.

I've got two designs done... they don't look like what I had originally planned. Like I suspected... tight space. I've got one with an integrated bumper... (which I like more and more) and one without the bumper. The integrated bumper version uses a williams blue bumper designed for such a thing.

#6196 7 days ago

Just received my PDI glass from pinballdecals.com...it is very nice. At first I was hesitant given the hefty price tag, but there is very visible improvement in the glare. The pictures don't even do it justice...from up close it's like there is no glass.

In any case...I would only recommend this if you have the money to burn or have questionable eyesight. While I do like it, the improvement is now not as apparent once it is on and in use. It's hard to explain...it looks good and all but in all honesty I don't remember the regular glass looking that bad to begin with.

image0 (4).jpeg
#6197 7 days ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Just received my PDI glass from pinballdecals.com...it is very nice. At first I was hesitant given the hefty price tag, but there is very visible improvement in the glare. The pictures don't even do it justice...from up close it's like there is no glass.
In any case...I would only recommend this if you have the money to burn or have questionable eyesight. While I do like it, the improvement is now not as apparent once it is on and in use. It's hard to explain...it looks good and all but in all honesty I don't remember the regular glass looking that bad to begin with. [quoted image]

You get used to PDI glass real quick... You start thinking this is normal... but its not. Any machine I intend on keeping or restoring will get PDI glass. Its one of the priciest and most impactful upgrades IMHO. I actually have more reflection from the play-field onto the back box... I was worried about my LED ColorDMD reflecting onto the glass... I can't even see it and ended up with the opposite problem.

#6198 6 days ago

So I’m having a little pinball garage sale and I have some Indy stuff someone maybe interested in. Only charging shipping but please don’t hoard. I’m hoping this stuff will be timely for someone in their work right now.

I have a translite with two little nicks circled in red). Never noticed them till I took it out to put in the mirrored back glass. I’d guess it’s original.

I have two “lost plastic” repros printed on translucent plasticy medium but it’s thin. Not really sure what it is. But it will behave like the plastic but not be so hard to install with it taking up valuable thickness in the back there. I had them printed for me but then I ended up just using a decal and lighting from the front instead.

E56DB0F8-1794-4F49-9DEA-8A7C42B454FC (resized).jpeg8A004000-D362-4275-9133-6EDD02426F04 (resized).jpeg159199AB-6021-4FD9-86A0-9744C55E4574 (resized).jpeg4E9E475A-52D6-4D3D-BA82-1CE46F9E0BF1 (resized).jpegA9720822-C6B6-4883-A3A2-31D97B954C03 (resized).jpeg
#6199 6 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I’m having a little pinball garage sale and I have some Indy stuff someone maybe interested in. Only charging shipping but please don’t hoard. I’m hoping this stuff will be timely for someone in their work right now.
I have a translite with two little nicks circled in red). Never noticed them till I took it out to put in the mirrored back glass. I’d guess it’s original.
I have two “lost plastic” repros printed on translucent plasticy medium but it’s thin. Not really sure what it is. But it will behave like the plastic but not be so hard to install with it taking up valuable thickness in the back there. I had them printed for me but then I ended up just using a decal and lighting from the front instead. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PM'd you...

#6200 6 days ago

Sold! In looking at that I only have one?! One is printed reverse? I guess the printer was thinking I’d put them back to back?! Not sure. Anyway, it’s spoken for.

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