Just a note here for all...
If you want to grab a set or have any questions, please send me a PinMail message directly. I'd rather clog up my inbox than the thread, and it's easier for me to keep track of you that way!
Thanks much!

I would be really interested in a set.

I'm interested too!

Has anyone installed the JackPot board from these guys?

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/indiana-jones-jackpot-board-5745.html

I have a color DMD and want to make sure theres enough room for the installation....maybe its not an issue, but figured I'd see if anyone has used this board.

Thanks

I have, but I’m using the LED ColorDMD, so there was no issue with fit.

OK thanks....It looks like Ricochet had an issue with hot spots due to the pinbits board being to close to the panel (although he fixed the issue). This board is a little different as it has surface mount LED's so it might not be an issue? I have the LCD display so not sure if I'll have a problem or not? worst cast I can always try to figure out another way to mount the board.

My speaker panel and jackpot LED board were both made by pinbits... so the mounting screw locations for the pinbits jackpot led board ended up being bit to close to the bottom LED ColorDMD chassis. This would not allow the jackpot PCB to fit with the standoffs in place... the screws would not align to mounting holes in the PCB due to the interference of the Color DMD. My first quick an dirty fix was just to remove the standoffs and mount the jackpot led PCB right on top of the wood (its basically under the ColorDMD). This is what created the hotspot... the leds were simply too close to the plastic. What I ended up doing was elongating the holes for the jackpot led pcb... all it took was like 1/16" of tolerance vertically. This allowed me to put the standoffs back in thereby creating some play in the PCB mounting holes so it would fit along side the Color DMD. If you are locating and mounting your own mounting studs I'm sure you can make it work.

Great....thank you....I ordered the board so I should find in a couple weeks Unfortunately I can't get PinBits to ever answer emails so not sure their in business anymore?

They're still around... but they have become fairly unresponsive over the years.

I'd say so....they make some great stuff (or they used to)....too bad their so unresponsive

Almost done restoring my IJ, but Im having a problem with my IDOL. Its not aligned right? As you can see in the pic, it stops in this position and drops the ball gate, then rotates in this position again and tries to drop the second and third ball? All the opts work, cleaned them, tested each one, the idol can only go on one way as well as the opto interruptor underneath (both aligned correctly). Have tried everything, any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike

IMG_3384 (resized).JPG

The opto interruptor may be upside down??? Just a guess... not sure if it’s possible to mount it upside down or not.

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No, on correctly, like yours.

Did you test it before installing it?
Did it work then?

Everything worked 100% before I tore it apart.

I would double check and make sure that your optics are all in the correct locations and re-run the idol test.

All the optics are correct per the manual and it passes every test. It seems like it’s off by one stop for some reason, I fooled with it for hours and still cannot figure it out.

Something changed. Stray light or anything firing an opto so it's out of sync ? Flaky opto ? Getting a false signal from a switch matrix error ?

LTG : )

I think we found the issue. Mike will post once he verifies.

The ball plate assembly, the thing that the idol screws to...
...it has a press fit coupling to the drive shaft collet. You probably have already checked it ... but make sure its not slipping... you shouldn't be able to manually turn the idol at all.

All the set screws have to be on the flat side of the D shaft... and you have verified that so I don't know what else it could be... like you said it really only goes on one way... and if all of the optics are correctly installed... and if you run the idol test it stops in all locations (albeit its off position) it has to be that its out of position physically somehow.

Did you do any work with the wiring (molex connectors/etc below the playfield)?

So I thought Robert Winter and I figured it out by swapping the opto placement according to the manual. Did not work. Again went through the opto test and verified that each opto was in the correct position according to the DMD (91,92,93). all in the correct position and working. No flaky optos, no slipping of the interruptor or idol bracket. It always homes in on the wrong position?? Starting to drive me nuts!! Lol

Has no one suggested black magic yet? Some sort of ancient curse?
Look under the playfield for pentagrams, glowing runes (not connected to GI), or other symbols of arcane magick. I'm thinking a witch or a wizard may be involved.

With knowledgeable voices like Lloyd and Ricochet on the case, that's about the best I can offer for expert advice. Good luck.

The idol can go on more than one way. I recently had my idol installed incorrectly which led to this same problem. I had to rotate it so that the set screw on the idol was touching the flat side of the long rotating rod.

Might be worth a factory reset too. Just to keep eliminating stuff.

LTG : )

I’ve decided to make a ball guide for the right exit lane. It looks funny without it and it will serve the real purpose of fixing the Narrow Escape problem.

This is the 2D view. There will be a bend in it just below the adjustable post so it will look nice regardless of where the post is set.

D56A99EF-AC2C-444E-94CF-043791A422A3 (resized).jpeg

I did a couple factory resets, and the idol is on the shaft correctly.

Awesome.....are u just making one

Nope... gonna make several

Just a thought, but if u didnt actually want to make several I could actually talk to Cliff (Cliffy protectors) and see if he can make them? He just lives down the road from me ... just a thought

They are already on their way. Once I get them tested I will make the .dxf file available to anyone who wants to make them. I just want to make sure it’s a good idea

+1 upvote for Ricochet for potentially solving the same problem in two different ways. I'm still rocking a 100% no false narrow escapes after deploying the actuator replacement you recommended a few pages back, and I've played at least a couple hundred rounds since doing so.

Thank you! Yeah this guide is part function part aesthetic.

So thanks to Robert Winter, he figured out what was wrong with my Idol Mech. I had the motor running clockwise, and he advised me to switch the wires as it should be going counter clockwise, works like a charm. I'm surprised I did not see that. But thats whats nice about having pinside folks and friends like Robert who can look at things in a different perspective as I was not seeing it. Thanks again for all the help. Mike Paris

FYI

Oddly, ALL replacement MOTORS (for now) are wired backwards from the originals (red dot on wrong side):

IJ (idol snd poa)
TOM
TAF
DW ( time expander)
FH etc...

I have replaced all of these.
All were reversed.

Test them with a 9v battety before installing. Compare to the existing (if it runs).

As s general rule. Your replacement motor will be probably reversed from the original.

End of public service announcrment...

Joined the club just now!
Perfect playfield, non touched boards just right and front faded.
1 hour drive for a machine that was on my wish list for so long, price was great. (And the very kind seller has the same first name as me lol)
Couldn't be happier, think it fits our collection perfectly

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congrats....

Can anyone tell me what kind of screwdriver is required to remove this type of screw (see pictures)?

I'm trying to remove the led board from the back of my IJ fighter plane and this is the picture of the screw.

image000001(3) (resized).jpg

image000002(1) (resized).jpg

Is it a rivet ?

LTG : )

Yup it’s riveted. So the type of screwdriver you need is a drill bit

Anything I can do about airballs caused by the center targets (ENT)?

20200621_153715 (resized).jpg

Pinsider Davi makes one of the best, from what I've seen. I don't know if he has a dedicated topic about it.

You might also check out this marketplace ad:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/airball-stopper-mod-indiana-jones-93#post-5621497

If u don't have air ball protectors balls fly all over the place....Davi makes great ones although I'm not sure he has any left in stock....DJShakes also makes a nice air ball protector.

Just ordered a set from Davi , they look great!
Thanks for helping both of you

One of my weirdities: when i hit the center hole for the Dogfight/Hurry Up award, i quickly look up at my award score as it stops counting down and try and guess the first 5 numbers. Such as 23 million 457 thousand. I got it right for first time tonight. Give it a try. Its kind of addicting.... or more likely its just me

Nice u won't be disappointed.....they are high quality and really help

So Indy started giving me some trouble the other day. The game was on, and had been on for 3-4 hours, I was in another room and heard a ruckus. When I got to the game room I saw the Indy display was off and the solenoids were going nuts. I had company at the time so I just turned it off. The next day, upon further inspection fuse F116 was burnt. Changed the fuse, played a few games and walked away. 3-4 hours latter another ruckus and F116 was burnt again.

I have a color DMD and Pinsound in the game, and I'm aware that some have had problems with F116 while running both of those in a machine. But it's been this way for the last 6 weeks since I finished restoring the game, and I've had it on for extended periods of time a lot. So why all of a sudden is it blowing fuses? I have no problem going the separate power supply route for the DMD and/or Pinsound, and probably will do so regardless, but is there anything else I should be looking at that might be causing F116 to blow? It seems odd to me that it would start doing this when it was fine before and I'm concerned I may be overlooking the root problem by just adding a separate power supply. Maybe it's as simple as the power board finally crossed the threshold into old age and doesn't like the strain anymore. BTW, voltage at TP1 is only 11.78v while the machine is on in attract mode. Any ideas?

Any advice on what to do with this playfield and insert damage?
I'm planning on keeping the game, so I would like to bulletproof and protect it

Mylar at the sling shots?
Mylar at the spots where the balls drop from the ramps?
Cliffy (?) for wear near droptargets?
New insert decals?
Playfield protector?

Any advice would be appreciated!
(And yes I know I have a broken plastic, new one from Davi is on its way. Also center droptarget is broken, bought it like this and already got a new one that can be installed)

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Hello - I'm new to Indy, but the Cliffy's are highly recommended especially behind the drop targets. My playfield had a very small fix done in the same spot as yours next to Marion that the previous owner did. He added mylar in front of the sling shots which stopped further damage from happening.

So weird question. I'm in the final stages of restoring my IJ. (all that's left is the art, some wood filler, the shooter lane, and powdercoating) but had a question - After about a dozen games or so I will keep getting errors for Left ramp and Right ramp made (I've cleaned the optos tons of times and adjusted them) I just factory reset the game and the game plays fine again. Any thoughts?

Second question - When you start a new game, is the post on the drawbridge supposed to be up at the beginning? For the right ramp? Mine always starts in the up position, and if I hit the right ramp when PoA isn't lit it just lowers and lets the ball through. I didn't know if it's always supposed to be down UNLESS PoA is lit. Just some questions I've had while I finish up.

I don't know about your first question, but for the second - yeah, the post is almost always up, unless you're in a mode that specifically bypasses the POA. But, if you make the right ramp when the POA isn't lit, the diverter should prevent you from even going up there? Hitting the right ramp should always feed down the right habittrail, unless POA is lit, or it's multiball, or something like the rope bridge mode is active.

I'm no electomagician, but when that post is down, I think that's when the coil is active - so if it were down most of the time, it'd probably burn out.