(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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  • 551 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by gorditas
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There are 9,216 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 185.
#5901 1 year ago

Thanks! Will give this a try tonight. Going to be looking for a broken wire as well.

#5902 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

Thanks! Will give this a try tonight. Going to be looking for a broken wire as well.

You may be able to see a broken wire just by visual inspection of the assembly... before you start taking it off

#5903 1 year ago

Thanks again.
I will first eyeball the entire area before attempting to remove the Idol head and assembly. Re-soldering a broken wire would certainly be preferable.

#5904 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

Thanks again.
I will first eyeball the entire area before attempting to remove the Idol head and assembly. Re-soldering a broken wire would certainly be preferable.

You won’t be able to re-solder anything without taking it off

#5905 1 year ago

I’ve been trying for an hour to get the allen key to turn the screw to release the Idol head, but there is so little space and I can’t get a good enough angle.

I’ve gone into test mode to rotate the Idol head mech, but it won’t line up straight.

Are there any suggestions as to how I can line-up the Idol screw hole for the Allen key to access it?

#5906 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

I’ve been trying for an hour to get the allen key to turn the screw to release the Idol head, but there is so little space and I can’t get a good enough angle.
I’ve gone into test mode to rotate the Idol head mech, but it won’t line up straight.
Are there any suggestions as to how I can line-up the Idol screw hole for the Allen key to access it?

Unplug the motor ... use a 9V battery across the terminals... this will activate the motor ... just tap the terminals with the battery until you get the idol head into position.

#5907 1 year ago

Thanks for the suggestion. I may try this later if I can find a 9v battery.
Aside from this, is there any other way to rotate the Idol head if I don’t have the 9v battery?

Btw- from underneath I was able to clean the optos and test them out.
One of them is not responding- guessing this is my issue. Just need to get at it.

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

#5908 1 year ago

JMK you can also turn the idol in test and watch it as it turns then when the allen screw is in position quickly turn the power off. Might take you a few times before you get it right. Also, you will need a long Allen-key in order to get the correct leverage and then maybe use a pair of vice-scrips on the allen key to apply some torque if required. Just be careful not to break any plastics when it releases.

Good luck!

#5909 1 year ago
Quoted from PBFan:

I did up a guide which might help you troubleshoot Idol issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-indiana-jones-idol-troubleshooting-guide
Good Luck.

I hadn't seen this thread previously - awesome work putting this together and sharing it. Thank you!

#5910 1 year ago

PBFan: Thanks for the tip.
I do not own any long Allen-keys so I’ll need to get a set of those in any event.

#5911 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Airball mods back in stock. I have 25 sets. Check my marketplace ad.[quoted image]

I purchased 2 sets of these about year and half ago and was best buy i ever made. I am still using my first set. Never an airball, easy to install and you dont even notice they are there. If you dont have any installed, get em!

#5912 1 year ago

I got a new Path of Adventure motor control board and the POA is now working, sort of. Going left is fine. Going right is a little choppy. It shows that the right opto is registering and then not over and over as the path pivots over. When it does actually break the opto it stops as it should. Need some ideas to check out. Path and the finger that breaks the optos are both tight.

#5913 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I got a new Path of Adventure motor control board and the POA is now working, sort of. Going left is fine. Going right is a little choppy. It shows that the right opto is registering and then not over and over as the path pivots over. When it does actually break the opto it stops as it should. Need some ideas to check out. Path and the finger that breaks the optos are both tight.

Loose / intermittent connection to the #2 opto receiver??? The wire that’s connected to Pin 2 on the opto board

#5914 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Loose / intermittent connection to the #2 opto receiver??? The wire that’s connected to Pin 2 on the opto board

Thats interesting....mine does the same thing, but in the opposite direction....its not as bad prior to me working on it over the weekend, but it repeated the behavior today. Sounds like I need to check the opto receivers on my board?

#5915 1 year ago

Could also be a failure on the 10 opto board (the one under the playfield)

#5916 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Could also be a failure on the 10 opto board (the one under the playfield)

Thanks...I'm gonna pull the opto board tomorrow, check all the connections, and reflow solder....

#5917 1 year ago

I played a few games and it was very nice to have the POA back again. The jerky movement to the right was still there and noticeable, but not a show stopper. While I had the POA off the pivot shaft I pulled the opto board in the top left corner and it looked good and the wires didn’t cause any issues while in the POA test mode. I will look on the underside at the opto board tomorrow and see if anything looks suspect.

#5918 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I played a few games and it was very nice to have the POA back again. The jerky movement to the right was still there and noticeable, but not a show stopper. While I had the POA off the pivot shaft I pulled the opto board in the top left corner and it looked good and the wires didn’t cause any issues while in the POA test mode. I will look on the underside at the opto board tomorrow and see if anything looks suspect.

bad, dirty or old cloudy optos on the opto board cause jittery movement.

Either replace the board, or just solder in new optos.

#5919 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

bad, dirty or old cloudy optos on the opto board cause jittery movement.
Either replace the board, or just solder in new optos.

Do you know where to get a new opto board and or new optos? Is this something Marco carries?

Found them Marco carries the board for $50 and the optos for $5 each....

#5920 1 year ago

I'm looking to join the club. Willing to drive a good distance from the Charlotte, NC area for a collector quality machine or maybe have something shipped in.

#5921 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I purchased 2 sets of these about year and half ago and was best buy i ever made. I am still using my first set. Never an airball, easy to install and you dont even notice they are there. If you dont have any installed, get em!

Thanks friend!

#5922 1 year ago

Installed #jimmyhonda drop target mod. Used "amber" led strip to light it.

IMG_2532 (resized).jpgIMG_2531 (resized).jpg
#5923 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Installed #jimmyhonda drop target mod. Used "amber" led strip to light it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

These look great. I wonder what they would look like with some comet fire bulbs under them.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs

#5924 1 year ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

These look great. I wonder what they would look like with some comet fire bulbs under them.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs

Neat idea but mounting may be an issue. Not a lot of room under there.

#5925 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Installed #jimmyhonda drop target mod. Used "amber" led strip to light it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

How did you mount the LED's under the play field? Any chance you can take a picture?

#5926 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

bad, dirty or old cloudy optos on the opto board cause jittery movement.
Either replace the board, or just solder in new optos.

I cleaned the upper opto and it was fine for a little bit. Then it wasn't. Back to being jittery. I tried a few things, all while moving the POA to the right, sometimes back and forth over and over. Pulled and reseated the connector on the POA opto board. No change. Covered the optos from any light source. No change. Then I started pushing on the top opto like a controller joystick. In, up, down, left, right. It worked! I have had this board pulled before and inspected all the solder joints. They are perfect. The optos are also newer as my friend replaced them shortly after the issue popped up. They were replaced by another friend at work who does prototype electrical assembly, and does very good work.

If I push on the opto from the left the POA is still jittery. If I push from the top, bottom, or right, it moves perfectly. So what are my options? Replacing the opto makes sense, but it's pretty much new, so that would be unfortunate. The leads are all soldered in properly, so if I had to guess there is an internal issue. Too bad this board is buried in that top right corner.

#5927 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I cleaned the upper opto and it was fine for a little bit. Then it wasn't. Back to being jittery. I tried a few things, all while moving the POA to the right, sometimes back and forth over and over. Pulled and reseated the connector on the POA opto board. No change. Covered the optos from any light source. No change. Then I started pushing on the top opto like a controller joystick. In, up, down, left, right. It worked! I have had this board pulled before and inspected all the solder joints. They are perfect. The optos are also newer as my friend replaced them shortly after the issue popped up. They were replaced by another friend at work who does prototype electrical assembly, and does very good work.
If I push on the opto from the left the POA is still jittery. If I push from the top, bottom, or right, it moves perfectly. So what are my options? Replacing the opto makes sense, but it's pretty much new, so that would be unfortunate. The leads are all soldered in properly, so if I had to guess there is an internal issue. Too bad this board is buried in that top right corner.

Flexing and moving the opto certainly tells you that its not working 100%

Replace the 30 year old board, they are inexpensive.

Dont buy the homepin one.

Its a 30 min job.

#5928 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flexing and moving the opto certainly tells you that its not working 100%
Replace the 30 year old board, they are inexpensive.
Dont buy the homepin one.
Its a 30 min job.

I just pulled and inspected the POA opto board again. Looked fine. The leads are really close together though. I reflowed and added a little solder just to see if that would do anything. Turns out it did. Tested the board after putting it back in and it's working like a champ.

#5929 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I just pulled and inspected the POA opto board again. Looked fine. The leads are really close together though. I reflowed and added a little solder just to see if that would do anything. Turns out it did. Tested the board after putting it back in and it's working like a champ.

I just replaced the optos on my IJ POA
Similar symptoms, But I could see the age of the board.

Its not getting any younger! So Im now replacing boards and such as I inspect them.

#5930 1 year ago

Saw a listing for IJ on eBay today. Looks like it's for the very rare "flying horse" edition of the game.

FlyingHorse (resized).jpg
#5931 1 year ago

Here's something that I've never seen mentioned anywhere, so I'm willing to bet there are one or two IJ owners who don't actually know this fun little fact...

In the "Choose Wisely" video mode, only the TRUE grail makes a sound when it switches positions.

Because the default difficulty for this mode is so painfully slow, I usually have this feature set to start at difficulty level 2. This makes it an actual challenge right out of the gate, but the real secret is this - if you ever lose track of the grail, just watch them all and listen. You can usually get back on track by seeing which grail makes the sliding sound effect when it swaps positions.

#5932 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just replaced the optos on my IJ POA
Similar symptoms, But I could see the age of the board.
Its not getting any younger! So Im now replacing boards and such as I inspect them.

Yeah, after a few games it started acting up again. Going to replace the POA opto board. Where should I get one from to avoid undesirable versions?

#5933 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Yeah, after a few games it started acting up again. Going to replace the POA opto board. Where should I get one from to avoid undesirable versions?

Email pinbits and see if they have one.
They are notorius for not updating their website.

other than that marco is pretty good.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16657

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=545

https://ksarcade.net/indiana-jones-path-of-adventure-opto-board-a-16657.html

Inspect the opto interrupter for dings and bends, corrosion etc..
Maybe replace that too.

#5935 1 year ago

Guys, just had the most epic game of Indy and I realized some of the reasons my Indy is one of the best ever is due to mods and this community. Thanks to everyone who supports pinball. Specifically thinking pinsound, PinWoofer, endprodukt, ledocd, colorDMD, and now the MRS switch:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927

Huge thumbs up for this MRS product!! My right ramp made switch would routinely fail (is this common?). I’ve replaced it many times. I actually paid an expert to replace it and it failed after a few games too!

Finally I swapped it for one of these MRS switches. It was a simple swap, no diodes or crap. Perfect function. Looks great. Great communication from sellers too.

Buy with confidence.

Photos before and after.

38584098-1B62-47A4-AAAF-41FCB0BBD161 (resized).jpegF819626C-0693-4535-BCD9-884D8D28DB6D (resized).jpeg10C3B70C-6259-4BD4-BCC0-4FA6D90D2759 (resized).jpeg841C5EC3-B900-49DF-9DB5-01A19065E3C9 (resized).jpegF522CE84-B38E-4CA1-BE06-3B394953BDB8 (resized).jpeg
#5936 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Guys, just had the most epic game of Indy and I realized some of the reasons my Indy is one of the best ever is due to mods and this community. Thanks to everyone who supports pinball. Specifically thinking pinsound, PinWoofer, endprodukt, ledocd, colorDMD, and now the MRS switch:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927
Huge thumbs up for this MRS product!! My right ramp made switch would routinely fail (is this common?). I’ve replaced it many times. I actually paid an expert to replace it and it failed after a few games too!
Finally I swapped it for one of these MRS switches. It was a simple swap, no diodes or crap. Perfect function. Looks great. Great communication from sellers too.
Buy with confidence.
Photos before and after.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks Mike! You know what was cool about this solution was you came to me with the problem - and I think we had this custom switch designed, built and shipped in like 24hrs......The versatility of these switches knows no end.....glad you are happy!

#5939 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Guys, just had the most epic game of Indy and I realized some of the reasons my Indy is one of the best ever is due to mods and this community. Thanks to everyone who supports pinball. Specifically thinking pinsound, PinWoofer, endprodukt, ledocd, colorDMD, and now the MRS switch:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927
Huge thumbs up for this MRS product!! My right ramp made switch would routinely fail (is this common?). I’ve replaced it many times. I actually paid an expert to replace it and it failed after a few games too!
Finally I swapped it for one of these MRS switches. It was a simple swap, no diodes or crap. Perfect function. Looks great. Great communication from sellers too.
Buy with confidence.
Photos before and after.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The MRS switches are by far the best improvement.
I put one in my Diner cup and will never look back.

WELL worth it.

#5940 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just ordered, thanks!

Great....I just reflowed all the solder joints on my POA control board. I played 4-5 games and it worked perfect. I ordered a new board just in case, but I'm sure my issue was a cold solder joint.

#5941 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

How did you mount the LED's under the play field? Any chance you can take a picture?

Here is a pic of a 10 smd led strip on the edge of the board where it would be installed. The one I used I cut to 7 smd's to reduce the size. Could probably cut to 5 and would still be plenty bright.

IMG_2534 (resized).jpgIMG_2535 (resized).jpg
#5942 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Here is a pic of a 10 smd led strip on the edge of the board where it would be installed. The one I used I cut to 7 smd's to reduce the size. Could probably cut to 5 and would still be plenty bright.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome....thanks

#5943 1 year ago

Over a decade ago, I bought some new IJ drop target decals online from...somewhere. They were unique, because all the areas which were usually yellow were instead shiny gold foil. They are really nice, and no longer exist anywhere.

Yesterday, it finally happened - one of my drop targets snapped. The decal was unrecoverable. So I've spent the day looking into making my own replacement.

With metallic stickers, it seems like I can't get them printed in low enough quantities for one person. I was curious if anyone would be interested in going in together to get some new ones made?

Here's the general idea:
GoldSample (resized).jpg

Fire me a PM if you'd also want this. I'm not really selling these - just looking for some like-minded pinheads to share in the cost.

#5944 1 year ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Over a decade ago, I bought some new IJ drop target decals online from...somewhere. They were unique, because all the areas which were usually yellow were instead shiny gold foil. They are really nice, and no longer exist anywhere.
Yesterday, it finally happened - one of my drop targets snapped. The decal was unrecoverable. So I've spent the day looking into making my own replacement.
With metallic stickers, it seems like I can't get them printed in low enough quantities for one person. I was curious if anyone would be interested in going in together to get some new ones made?
Here's the general idea:
[quoted image]
Fire me a PM if you'd also want this. I'm not really selling these - just looking for some like-minded pinheads to share in the cost.

This is a great idea ! PM sent

#5945 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

This is such a good airballprotector. I really like this in my machine! No more balls flying around and the art is similar. Great product!

Quoted from Ricochet:

FANTASTIC PRODUCT!
Don't forget to add a bit of mylar around this area... I got this tip from the maker [quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks guys, I appreciate.
50% is sold out

#5946 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Guys, just had the most epic game of Indy and I realized some of the reasons my Indy is one of the best ever is due to mods and this community. Thanks to everyone who supports pinball. Specifically thinking pinsound, PinWoofer, endprodukt, ledocd, colorDMD, and now the MRS switch:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927
Huge thumbs up for this MRS product!! My right ramp made switch would routinely fail (is this common?). I’ve replaced it many times. I actually paid an expert to replace it and it failed after a few games too!
Finally I swapped it for one of these MRS switches. It was a simple swap, no diodes or crap. Perfect function. Looks great. Great communication from sellers too.
Buy with confidence.
Photos before and after.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I want to hear more about this epic game!

#5947 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremen:I want to hear more about this epic game!

Well, it was like 45 min. Almost two billion. Surprisingly few modes, but I got the fish of the Tayles jackpot which is quite difficult on my machine so it’s a big goal for me.

#5948 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Well, it was like 45 min. Almost two billion. Surprisingly few modes, but I got the fish of the Tayles jackpot which is quite difficult on my machine so it’s a big goal for me.

I know what you mean, I got The Fish of Tayles for the first time the other day and was rapped. Amazing how some times you are just in the zone and it seems so easy, but later in that same game I only had one last mode to get and my play deteriorated to where I couldn't hit the start mode to save myself (yep choked big time). Still happy to finally achieve the fish of tayles!!

#5949 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Well, it was like 45 min. Almost two billion. Surprisingly few modes, but I got the fish of the Tayles jackpot which is quite difficult on my machine so it’s a big goal for me.

Awesome, congrats! Did you hit the captive ball target again after you got Fish of Tayles and get the Special lit?

10
#5950 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Installed #jimmyhonda drop target mod. Used "amber" led strip to light it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those drop targets look dynamite.

A picture of my Indy...

Screen Shot 2020-05-06 at 11.35.57 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-05-06 at 11.35.46 AM (resized).png
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