(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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  • 9,721 posts
  • 579 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Williampinball
  • Topic is favorited by 294 Pinsiders

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There are 9,721 posts in this topic. You are on page 118 of 195.
#5851 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I tried all of the potential fixes. Nothing worked for me. I had the dang poa off so many times! Finally I just took the metal thing out and foamed it like boob advocates and it’s been great ever since. Occasional brick out just to keep it interesting, but it works the it “should” (IMO).

Here's a question...

What do people think of this? And by this, I mean the new orientation of the hole protector.
20200423_123401 (resized).jpg

I take the deflector completely out, as people have suggested, and drill NEW holes off to the side to mount the Cliffy protector. That way I don't have to worry about the ball constantly banging into the screws.

Is this a good idea? Bad idea? Should I try other options first, such as elongating the screw holes in the deflector so it can be mounted further back?

#5852 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Here's a question...
What do people think of this? And by this, I mean the new orientation of the hole protector.
[quoted image]
I take the deflector completely out, as people have suggested, and drill NEW holes off to the side to mount the Cliffy protector. That way I don't have to worry about the ball constantly banging into the screws.
Is this a good idea? Bad idea? Should I try other options first, such as elongating the screw holes in the deflector so it can be mounted further back?

Seems like a smart move if you ok with drilling into the play field.

#5853 2 years ago

Would someone mind confirming if their left flipper EOS has two orange wires connected to it or just one? My left flipper just got weak and parts wise it looks fine. Coil is getting very hot though - feel like EOS issue and my right flipper has two orange wires yet my left only has one on EOS. See attached
20200423_171214 (resized).jpg

#5854 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Would someone mind confirming if their left flipper EOS has two orange wires connected to it or just one? My left flipper just got weak and parts wise it looks fine. Coil is getting very hot though - feel like EOS issue and my right flipper has two orange wires yet my left only has one on EOS. See attached
[quoted image]

Can confirm - two on the right, one on the left.

#5855 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Can confirm - two on the right, one on the left.

much appreciated. OK - the hunt continues haha. Flipper parts look fine when I took apart. Either coil, eos or flipper board I guess

#5856 2 years ago

Found this on Ebay. I bought the tank from the same maker and it was a close match to the movie. The plane can be taken off the base. What are your thoughts? Is there a better one that's the right size out there?

image (resized).jpeg
#5857 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

much appreciated. OK - the hunt continues haha. Flipper parts look fine when I took apart. Either coil, eos or flipper board I guess

Figured it out - dirty flipper opto board. All good.

#5858 2 years ago

Did anyone install pinball life lighted flipper buttons? What colors do you suggest? I was thinking red, orange, or yellow, but haven't redone my cabinet art yet so don't know what the end result would look like. Just wondering, thank you

#5859 2 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Did anyone install pinball life lighted flipper buttons? What colors do you suggest? I was thinking red, orange, or yellow, but haven't redone my cabinet art yet so don't know what the end result would look like. Just wondering, thank you

Red... stick with the original non-lit color.... yellow and orange(amber) LEDs just don't look good IMHO

#5860 2 years ago

I replaced the mode start deflector with Marco part #01-8806. Shot is sticking 98/99%. Used existing holes in the playfield. The plastic has to be removed because the new deflector is too tall; not noticeable since that area is covered by POA.

#5861 2 years ago

Any suggestions on which foam to use for mode start? Im hearing remove the metal bracket entirely and install dead drop foam. Just didnt know what ine to get.

20200425_012802 (resized).jpg
#5862 2 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Any suggestions on which foam to use for mode start? Im hearing remove the metal bracket entirely and install dead drop foam. Just didnt know what ine to get.[quoted image]

Everyone talks about PinBits dead drop foam, but I've never actually seen it in stock. And it seems pretty expensive for what they're offering.

I have two types of foam that I'm using - a thicker, softer 'weather stripping' foam that I got at Home Depot and used on the standup targets and under the lockdown bar, and I have a much thinner, but denser, adhesive foam that I found on Amazon. I don't know how this compares to actual 'dead drop' foam, but I found it works for my purposes.

You can see what I did with the thinner foam here:
20200423_140217-01 (resized).jpeg
Though this was not the final foam placement I went with. I ended up moving the piece on the left further down so it goes from the post to the bottom edge of the mode hole, then bare steel to the corner, and keeping the piece on the back as-is.
This gives me about 80% success on mode shots, which is slightly LESS than I had before when I had a single narrow piece of foam at the very top of the deflector, but I'm generally happy with the result. It makes the shot attainable, without being a sure thing (and therefore too easy, IMO).

#5863 2 years ago

I should also mention, without the deflector plate, the ball pops out of the mode hole and hits the plastic above, where it would normally be diverted by the deflector plate.
Make sure you have the mode start plastic here at the very least, or better yet have a plastic protector here, so the ball isn't jumping up and hitting the underside of the POA.

#5864 2 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Any suggestions on which foam to use for mode start? Im hearing remove the metal bracket entirely and install dead drop foam. Just didnt know what ine to get.[quoted image]

In case you're interested, this is pretty much what I got:
amazon.com link »
(I got a cheaper version in a smaller quantity, but it's sold out. This looks essentially the same, but not sure what I'd do with 50 feet of the stuff.)

#5865 2 years ago

Does anyone know the switch part number for the switch that activates the post for the POA? Its the rollover switch right before the up and down post. For whatever reason its not listed in the manual. Thanks!

#5866 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Huh. The colours on this DMD are different than I'm used to. I didn't know there were competing products - looks weird after having the ColorDMD version for do long.
Just noticed this was VirtuaPin, too. Not sure you can count this as a "real" score, but I have no experience with, and am not sure of others' opinions of virtual pinball.

Hi Aaron,

This product is a Pin2DMD for VirtuaPin. This DMD was colourised by MistaMartin, so the colours would be different.

#5867 2 years ago

Pin2dmd is not just for Virtual Pinball. I have Pin2dmd's in several of my real Pins including Indy.

#5868 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Does anyone know the switch part number for the switch that activates the post for the POA? Its the rollover switch right before the up and down post. For whatever reason its not listed in the manual. Thanks!

5647-12693-56

#5869 2 years ago

Is it normal for the up and down post before the POA to be pulled down sometimes? For example, I’ll make a shot that activates POA, the ball goes down POA and doesn’t get all the lit switches. In order for me to complete POA it requires another shot up right ramp to POA, but the up and down post doesn’t stop the ball (the post is down). So the ball passes the POA and travels down the left trail to the in lane of the ball return to the flipper. So frustrating.

I should note that at some point the up and down post does return to the up position during the game. Not sure when. Also, there is no obstruction preventing the post from a smooth up and down motion.

Thoughts?

288DA780-826A-4961-B518-0602A591BA06 (resized).jpeg
#5870 2 years ago

3 bucks at Lowe's. looks like it will do the job for the mode start hole
15879141703464185118180459743654 (resized).jpg

#5871 2 years ago

I spent half the day yesterday working through my POA issues. I removed the motor, and cleaned the opto board...both seemed to check out just fine. When I removed the POA I realized that none of the bulbs have been converted to LED's so I swapped those out. When doing do I realized that one of the light boards wasn't working correctly (two bulbs were out and not getting voltage) so I had to reflow solder on the board and all is good now. Its a bit of a hornets nest under the POA. Unfortunately I broke a switch when taking it off and on so many times so thats on order. I also realized that many of the 44, 89, and 904 bulbs were out so I put those on order with Comet (thanks Ricochet for your lamp specs). I really appreciate all the advice on this forum.

#5872 2 years ago

Johncare -

If the POA is not lit, the post will be pulled down. Are you sure you're not timed out? I really like it when the POA is not lit, and you're in the Cross the Bridge mode - up the right ramp, down to the left flipper, repeat.

#5873 2 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Is it normal for the up and down post before the POA to be pulled down sometimes? For example, I’ll make a shot that activates POA, the ball goes down POA and doesn’t get all the lit switches. In order for me to complete POA it requires another shot up right ramp to POA, but the up and down post doesn’t stop the ball (the post is down). So the ball passes the POA and travels down the left trail to the in lane of the ball return to the flipper. So frustrating.
I should note that at some point the up and down post does return to the up position during the game. Not sure when. Also, there is no obstruction preventing the post from a smooth up and down motion.
Thoughts?[quoted image]

Check the mounting bracket that holds the post coil... it loosens up, the bracket twists and the post binds on the hole in the ramp. The spring that returns it is very light so it doesn’t take much for the post to bind.

#5874 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Check the mounting bracket that holds the post coil... it loosens up, the bracket twists and the post binds on the hole in the ramp. The spring that returns it is very light so it doesn’t take much for the post to bind.

I agree 100%

#5875 2 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

3 bucks at Lowe's. looks like it will do the job for the mode start hole
[quoted image]

Note that this is a thicker, plastic-based foam.
I have this stuff too, but I find it's not as effective for ball control as the thinner, denser foam. Works great as a spill-guard under the lockdown bar, or as backing for the standup targets, though.
I have two types of dense 3mm closed-cell foam in both a plastic (EVA), as well as a rubber (neoprene) material. I suspect the neoprene is closer to the PinBits 'dead drop' foam, but I've never seen it in person for comparison, so I couldn't say for sure.
At the end of the day, you can probably make any of these foams work with the right placement.

#5876 2 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Johncare -
I really like it when the POA is not lit, and you're in the Cross the Bridge mode - up the right ramp, down to the left flipper, repeat.

It's the "repeat" bit that I struggle with ... it comes down the side of the POA and into the return lane that fast, that I struggle to get the timing right with the flipper to make the ramp again.

Yep I know ... just play better

#5877 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It's the "repeat" bit that I struggle with ... it comes down the side of the POA and into the return lane that fast, that I struggle to get the timing right with the flipper to make the ramp again.
Yep I know ... just play better

Flail Harder!

#5878 2 years ago

Question for the folks running version L-7... when you open the coin door do you get the high voltage warning message on the display???

I swear mine use to do that (before I rebuilt it and upgraded) but am not seeing the message now (yes I’ve tested all my switches ... they are fine and coin door open switch works as it should)

#5879 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Question for the folks running version L-7... when you open the coin door do you get the high voltage warning message on the display???
I swear mine use to do that (before I rebuilt it and upgraded) but am not seeing the message now (yes I’ve tested all my switches ... they are fine and coin door open switch works as it should)

I'm running L-7, and I don't get a high voltage warning.

I didn't even know that was a thing. When I bought my machine, I was running L-5, but that was over 15 years ago and I don't remember that warning.

#5880 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I'm running L-7, and I don't get a high voltage warning.
I didn't even know that was a thing. When I bought my machine, I was running L-5, but that was over 15 years ago and I don't remember that warning.

I bet I’m imagining it!!!! I think ‘93 is when they started putting that message in their pins.

#5881 2 years ago

Airball mods back in stock. I have 25 sets. Check my marketplace ad.

20200428_162229 (resized).jpg
#5882 2 years ago

Requesting Help. I have several machines and have a decent general knowledge. But recently my IJ machine is adding a second ball into the plunger lane during play. Then when you hit the gun the two balls go up into the playfield. But when one ball drains the machine ends that players game and totals up bonus and score for that ball. Has any one ever had this happen and what did you do or suggest for me to correct this issues. Thank you for everyone's time.

#5883 2 years ago
Quoted from EagleEd7:

Requesting Help. I have several machines and have a decent general knowledge. But recently my IJ machine is adding a second ball into the plunger lane during play. Then when you hit the gun the two balls go up into the playfield. But when one ball drains the machine ends that players game and totals up bonus and score for that ball. Has any one ever had this happen and what did you do or suggest for me to correct this issues. Thank you for everyone's time.

One possible problem...

Check the switch in the shooter lane. Seems like it may be physically damaged ... or may have a loose connection. For whatever reason when the ball is kicked out of the trough and into the shooter lane... the program doesn’t think it’s there ... so it tries again.

#5884 2 years ago

Looking for some help. My IJ has recently had 3 separate issues come up at once:

Firstly, my Hand of Fate Mode Hole switch no longer works and the ball isn’t ejecting from the mode hole. I tested the switch in switch test and it’s not responding.

At the same time, secondly, the game now always shoots up 2 balls during gameplay.

Thirdly, I’m getting an Error that my ‘Idol has a bad switch and is not running properly’.

Unfortunately, I’m not overly tech savvy and local service guys are unable to come and fix due to the virus.

Any advice and assistance would be truly appreciated. I’m wondering if there’s a broken wire somewhere that is linking these issues?

Thanks so much for your suggestions!

#5885 2 years ago

Further to above, I went into switch test and the ‘U’ and ‘A’ stand up targets aren’t responding either.
There may be other switches that aren’t working as well.
Could this be a blown fuse, broken wire or something else?
Also, the only error I’m getting at the game start is the Idol Error.
Thanks again for any advice.

#5886 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

Looking for some help. My IJ has recently had 3 separate issues come up at once:
Firstly, my Hand of Fate Mode Hole switch no longer works and the ball isn’t ejecting from the mode hole. I tested the switch in switch test and it’s not responding.
At the same time, secondly, the game now always shoots up 2 balls during gameplay.
Thirdly, I’m getting an Error that my ‘Idol has a bad switch and is not running properly’.
Unfortunately, I’m not overly tech savvy and local service guys are unable to come and fix due to the virus.
Any advice and assistance would be truly appreciated. I’m wondering if there’s a broken wire somewhere that is linking these issues?
Thanks so much for your suggestions!

Whar is tbe common wire from the switch matrix?

I bet they are all connected.

#5887 2 years ago

How would I be able to tell what the common wire from the switch matrix would be?
Really appreciate the help.

#5888 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

How would I be able to tell what the common wire from the switch matrix would be?
Really appreciate the help.

If you don't have the manual... its essential...
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1267/Williams_1993_Indiana_Jones_The_Pinball_Adventure_English_Manual.pdf

switchmatrix (resized).png
#5889 2 years ago

I just located my manual.
I believe my issue is with the switches on the top horizontal line of the above Switch Matrix page.
2 of my adventure lights switches (#51 & #61) don’t register nor, left eject (which is the mode hole I believe) nor wheel position or trough #6.
How would I find the common broken wire connecting all these together?
Thanks!

#5890 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

How would I be able to tell what the common wire from the switch matrix would be?
Really appreciate the help.

Yep, grab the manual.

Lots if helpful info there as well as troubleshooting ideas.

(Teach a man to fish...)

#5891 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

I just located my manual.
I believe my issue is with the switches on the top horizontal line of the above Switch Matrix page.
2 of my adventure lights switches (#51 & #61) don’t register nor, left eject (which is the mode hole I believe) nor wheel position or trough #6.
How would I find the common broken wire connecting all these together?
Thanks!

You will have to lift the playfield.

Locate the color wire.

The matrix lists the wire by color.

Manually inspect its path.

Row and column.

Could be a loose connector in the backbox or a fuse.

#5892 2 years ago

JMK

Also Check to see if the switch at the bottom of the mini playfield has its leads smashed together. It tends to cause a lot of switch issues.

#5893 2 years ago

Hey guys, some good news, after much searching, we located the broken (white/brown) wire under the pf. The wire had snapped off and needed to be re-soldered. We were happy to find the elusive wire. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

That fixed all the switches except the Idol issue.

The Idol still gets an error message: “Error Idol Bad, Check Switches/Mtr.
In Idol test, it indicates ‘Idol lock not running correctly’.

In continuous test, it only shows position 1,5 & 6, but doesn’t seem to be reading or stopping at position 2,3 or 4.

During gameplay the Idol locks just 2 balls and doesn’t release them. The motor seems to be running perfectly.

Is this a faulty opto as it’s not reading position 2-4 in test? Can optos be cleaned if that’s the case?

Any further suggestions or help is really appreciated.

#5894 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

As discussed in PM, I will try to do a small batch.

The wait is over! The screen printed airball protectors are ready. This is the last batch for a while (at least in 2020).
Contains the 3 bank drop target and a single drop target protector (with protective foil on both sides).
The price of set is $35 plus shipping (same price as in 2019). Shipping is 10-12 USD, depends of location (if you are an actual customer of KornFreak28 (planes, Batch 4), no shipping cost will occur).
PM me for further details.

20200429_084222 (resized).jpg20200429_083448 (resized).jpgIJ_airball (resized).jpg
#5895 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The wait is over! The screen printed airball protectors are ready. This is the last batch for a while (at least in 2020).
Contains the 3 bank drop target and a single drop target protector (with protective foil on both sides).
The price of set is $35 plus shipping (same price as in 2019). Shipping is 10-12 USD, depends of location (if you are an actual customer of KornFreak28 (planes, Batch 4), no shipping cost will occur).
PM me for further details.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is such a good airballprotector. I really like this in my machine! No more balls flying around and the art is similar. Great product!

#5896 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The wait is over! The screen printed airball protectors are ready. This is the last batch for a while (at least in 2020).
Contains the 3 bank drop target and a single drop target protector (with protective foil on both sides).
The price of set is $35 plus shipping (same price as in 2019). Shipping is 10-12 USD, depends of location (if you are an actual customer of KornFreak28 (planes, Batch 4), no shipping cost will occur).
PM me for further details.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great news! Thanks!

#5897 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

The Idol still gets an error message: “Error Idol Bad, Check Switches/Mtr.

I did up a guide which might help you troubleshoot Idol issues.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-indiana-jones-idol-troubleshooting-guide

Good Luck.

#5898 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The wait is over! The screen printed airball protectors are ready. This is the last batch for a while (at least in 2020).
Contains the 3 bank drop target and a single drop target protector (with protective foil on both sides).
The price of set is $35 plus shipping (same price as in 2019). Shipping is 10-12 USD, depends of location (if you are an actual customer of KornFreak28 (planes, Batch 4), no shipping cost will occur).
PM me for further details.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

FANTASTIC PRODUCT!

Don't forget to add a bit of mylar around this area... I got this tip from the maker

mylar (resized).jpgmylar-2 (resized).jpg
#5899 2 years ago

PBFan: Thanks so much for that guide. Excellent reference.

How difficult is it to access the 3 optos inside the Idol?
Do you remove the Idol from on top or can you access the optos from below the pf.

I’m not all that tech savvy and I’m hoping they just need to be cleaned as I’ve never re-flowed nor replaced optos before.
In test, it’s not reading position 2-4 (only 1, 5 & 6 positions are shown).

Thanks again!

#5900 2 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

PBFan: Thanks so much for that guide. Excellent reference.
How difficult is it to access the 3 optos inside the Idol?
Do you remove the Idol from on top or can you access the optos from below the pf.
I’m not all that tech savvy and I’m hoping they just need to be cleaned as I’ve never re-flowed nor replaced optos before.
In test, it’s not reading position 2-4 (only 1, 5 & 6 positions are shown).
Thanks again!

It’s a bit of work ... you need to remove the assembly.

First you need to remove the idol head... It has to be rotated into position where you can access the set screw from the front (where the balls release). You need to hold down the ball lock gate and looseN the screw. A long Allen wrench helps.

Then underneath ... unplug the opto cable and the motor cable.

Remove the 3 screws holding the rotator assembly to the playfield.

That’s it.
AAA8B086-BC95-4742-B742-2CF1DF5A5EC4 (resized).jpeg

D3DDC275-5108-4D78-921C-35FC83477C5C (resized).jpeg
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