(Topic ID: 61082)

IJ restoration complete

By Bryan_Kelly

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I've got an IJ I just started and decided to post pics of things as they go along. I've got a CC and Congo to finish up in the middle of this, so the process is going to take a while. I'm not sure how crazy I'll get with this. It may just be a hodge podge of restoration tips, if you will. If you learn something from my tips, great. If you have your own way of doing things, great. If you think I'm a f'ing idiot, please keep that to yourself.

#2 10 years ago

First pic shows how most people mark connectors before the unplug things. PLEASE don't do this. It ends up being more work for me when I have to restore it. Easiest way to remove Sharpie is with denatured alcohol.

Second pic shows how a simple pic can tell you exactly where the connectors go. I don't mark anything before I disconnect all the cables. I simply take a series of pics showing locations on all the boards.

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#5 10 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Are you the same Bryan Kelly as on the Spooky Podcast?

Might be. How many of us Bryan Kellys do you know?

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

One in the same my friend....his voice has changed lately on the show....."Bryan from lovely Farm Animal, MN"

Bug is a f'ing dead man next time I see him!!

#8 10 years ago

The nice thing about a pinball lift is, not only can I move games around with it, but I can move the game up and down which makes it easier to work on things. When I have the game all the way to the floor, I can remove the playfield by myself.

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#9 10 years ago

The next pics simply show ones I take for reference purposes. These are all I need to show me where everything goes once it's cleaned or rebuilt. They even show me where the ground braid goes. I write very little down when I do a restoration. The same goes for the playfield.

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#10 10 years ago

Here's how I clean all the PCB's. Remove all fuses, spray the Scrubbing bubbles on, let sit for a minute or two, scrub with paint brush and rinse well. I'll leave them sit for a few minutes then blow all the water off with an air compressor.

If you think your boards look clean, try this and let me know how much brown shit runs off when you rinse them.

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#11 10 years ago

In order to remove a playfield from the cabinet, you want to lift the playfield and slide forward about six inches or so. You don't want the playfield slides to engage on the cabinet pivot nuts. Once you've done that, you should be able to tilt the playfield all the way up. It should be sitting on the left and right blocks in the cabinet. Have you ever wondered why those are there?

It should look like this.

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#12 10 years ago

Now, all you have to do is lift it out. Once out of the cabinet, I prefer setting them on the front of the playfield. Too many games, like IJ have parts mounted to the back of the backboard and you don't want to set them on that.

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#13 10 years ago

When done for the day, it's time to enjoy the cold adult beverage of your choice.

Have a couple, if you'd like.

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#18 10 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Bryan, when you are doing a high end restore do the boards just get cleaned or do you send them somewhere for what I have heard people call "bulletproofing"? I am just curious as I know things are prone to failure on boards after so many years.

On all the games I do, the boards get sent to Clive at The Coin-Op Cauldron. Clive not only replaces all out of spec components, but also updates all roms. They really are good as new when I get them back.

#21 10 years ago

Everything has been removed from the cabinets. Needless to say, a list has been made of things that need to be ordered. I also make notes of things that need to be corrected. In the first pic I found one of the plumb bob wires disconnected. The second shows the replacement leg plates mounted at an angle. All the holes will be filled and the plates will be mounted correctly. The third pic shows black carriage bolts on the door. They'll be replaced with brass. The tacky sticker will also be removed.

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#22 10 years ago

The inside decals will not be going back on and neither will the shaker. A shaker on IJ is a really bad idea.

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#23 10 years ago

Not much you can do with this guy other than have it plated. I'll be installing an NOS power box instead.

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#24 10 years ago

Ever since Kerry Stair came out with stainless lock bar receivers, I don't even deal with trying to make the old ones look nice.

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#25 10 years ago

I get to try and remove black paint from things because some dipshit decided to use a spray can to repaint the inside sides of the cabinet. BAD IDEA!!

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#26 10 years ago

New artwork was installed by someone else and this pic gives you an idea of how it was done. I will admit, with a bright light shining on it, this looks worse than it really is, but it ain't good. I'll be taking more pics of the artwork, showing what to do and what not to do when I get the cabinet in the shop.

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#28 10 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Don't hold back. Tell us how you really feel!

When you get Bryan Kelly, Craig, you get Bryan Kelly. I'm the same guy here as I am in person.

#31 10 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Yes this is great stuff. We are very lucky to be getting this info. Bryan, I am curious when your redo a cabinet what upgrades and parts are a must. I know you swear by the Stern style cabinet protectors and am now seeing in this thread that there are inside the cabinet upgrades for leg bolts? Anything else thats a must?

Stay tuned and we'll see what we run into.

#34 10 years ago

I hauled the cabinets to the shop this morning and got things started. I have not idea who did the artwork on this cabinet and I don't mean to make him look bad. Seriously. I just want to show how imperfections will show through the new artwork, if not taken care of.

Now keep in mind, if you're standing five feet away from this game, you'd think it looked pretty damn nice. Not so when you get a little closer.

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#35 10 years ago

The old artwork was removed quite easily. I just grabbed and pulled.

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#36 10 years ago

I couldn't quite figure out what was causing the odd waves and such under the artwork. Once removed, it was quite obvious. Someone had removed the original artwork with possibly a putty knife and heat gun and that's as far as they went. Maybe a little filler of some kind here and there, but there was no sanding done whatsoever.

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#37 10 years ago

Time to remove the old glue. I hate the thought of using any kind of liquid adhesive remover, so what I do is sand it off. It's a bit time consuming, but it gets the job done. I use 80 grit paper in an air activated DA sander. Anything finer than that and the glue plugs the paper up rather quickly. It's bad enough with 80 grit but using 60 or more would be like rubbing rocks on the wood.

Once you start to sand, a lot of the glue will ball up and fly out from the sander, like in pic one. You'll notice on the right of that pic, some glue will heat up and pool together. At this point, I'll take a paint scraper and scrape as much of the glue off as I can. I'll continue this process until the glue is all gone. You'll want to change paper when you're getting no results. You'll also want to make sure your paint scraper is sharp. And I mean sharp. I'll actually sharpen it a few times while doing an entire cabinet. A sharp tool is a happy tool!!

Last pic shows the glue gone and I'm ready to make repairs.

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#38 10 years ago

After sanding everything with 80 grit paper, it's time for repairs. Most every cabinet I've ever done has one or more corners separating, along with a variety of other issues, like ply separating of the plywood.

The first pic shows typical plywood separation. You'll want to pry it open and blow any debris out with compressed air. Next, set the cabinet such that the glue you're about to apply will run down into the separation. While prying it open, apply glue. Once the glue has run down, push closed, then open again. This will distribute the glue throughout. You can also use compressed air to blow the glue into the joint but be careful. You don't need much air. I'll also you a razor blade to spread the glue in some cases. Continue applying glue until the joint is full. Now all you have to do is clamp. Once clamped, if you don't have glue squishing out, you didn't apply enough.

I don't mess with any excess glue until it's fully dried. Once dried, I'll remove with a paint scraper.

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#39 10 years ago

Corner separations are dealt with about the same as ply separations. The first pic shows a typical corner that has separated and I've leaned the cabinet against a bench. Once the glue has been applied, things get clamped.

In this case, you want to clamp from both sides to keep the corner square. Again, make sure you have glue squishing out. The second pic may look like overkill, but if this corner ever separates again, it won't do it where it's been glued!!

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#40 10 years ago

Here's a little trick to use for small repairs like in the first pic. Once you get the repair glued, you can use tape as your clamp. Simply apply the tape on one side and pull tight as you wrap it around to the other side.

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#41 10 years ago

Now we're going to talk about whether IJ and games like it, were decaled or not. NO THEY WERE NOT!! But if you've ever removed IJ artwork, you'd swear it was a decal you were removing. NO IT WAS NOT!!

With earlier games, the artwork was screened directly unto the wood. At some point, Williams started buying their plywood with a vinyl outer layer applied at the factory. This gave them a perfectly smooth surface to apply the screening. This is not truly a decal, although it may appear so.

Looking at the top of the IJ head in pic one, you'll see what I mean. The same plywood was used for the top and here, I'm removing the vinyl layer. Remember, THIS IS NOT A DECAL!!

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#42 10 years ago

For removing this vinyl layer, I simply use a heat gun and stiff, sharp putty knife. Heat, scrape, heat, scrape. I do this in strips. Hard to describe, but once you try it, you'll get the feel for it.

The second pic shows the top with vinyl and glue removed and sanded with 80 grit paper. It will eventually be sanded with 120 grit, then 220 grit, primed, sanded with 320 grit, then painted with semi gloss black and will look good as new.

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#43 10 years ago

Here's a little tip. When removing the vinyl layer, you may find that you can just pull the vinyl up without using any heat. DO NOT DO THIS OR WILL BE FILLING A MILLION TINY HOLES WITH BONDO THAT YOU WOULDN'T HAVE HAD TO!!

The first pic shows me doing this in a small area on top. You can easily see what happens.

The second pic shows the front and it certainly appears that's what the previous guy had done.

Again, DON'T DO THIS!!

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#45 10 years ago

Now onto the bottom of the head. Here's a case where you can make a cabinet look better than when it left the factory. The first pic shows the typical bottom of an IJ cabinet, again, using the plywood with the vinyl outer layer. The second pic shows the vinyl removed.

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#46 10 years ago

These two pics show how badly the back, sides and bottom lined up when assembled.

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#47 10 years ago

To remedy this, I'm going to use a belt sander with 80 grit paper to level things out. Word of warning, if you've never used a belt sander, you may not want to try this at home. You can end up with a worse looking bottom than what you started with!!

The second pic shows everything leveled off and DA sanded with 80 grit paper. It will eventually be sanded with 120 then 220 and left natural wood.

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#51 10 years ago

One more comment about sanding and paper grits, and I say this only because of what I've read what others have used, and I sometimes shake my head.

Anything more course than 80 grit and you do more tearing up of the wood than you really need to. You can make it look nice again, but it's a lot more work working up through the grits to get it smooth.

You also don't need anything finer than 220 grit when sanding bare wood. 220 grit will get you a very smooth surface that's ready for primer. Anything finer than that and all you're doing is polishing instead of sanding. Now if you're sanding a primed, sealed or painted surface, you want something finer, like 320.

THAT'S MY OPINION ONLY AND YOUR MILLEGE MAY VARY!!

#52 10 years ago

Throughout the restoration process, I've got two Berry tumblers that will run for days on end. The reason I've got two is, it's nice to keep things separated when tumbling, like parts from the topside and bottom side of a playfield. Or maybe cabinet parts in one and coil assembly parts in another.

I prefer crushed walnut shells and Flitz media. Lots of other options, but this is what I've always used.

I'll simply be showing various things that get tumbled, like the second pic which is most of the small parts from the cabinet. A new walnut batch will get about 6 rings of Flitz squirted in and each batch of parts after that gets 3 or 4.

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#53 10 years ago

I've been waiting for Mr. Festool to chime in then it dawned on me, he's still in Pinside jail.

He tells me he gets out tomorrow.

#55 10 years ago

It's about 100 and f'ing 5 degrees in the wood shop today, so I'm doing a little cleaning in the AC today.

I've seen tons of posts about various cleaners people use on pinball parts and I guess it comes down to, if it works for you, great. For me, I've found nothing better than Westley's Bleche Wite. I use it on 99% of everything I clean. Problem is, they changed the formula and you can't get the original anymore. The good stuff will say Westley's on it and the new stuff will say Black Magic. If it says Black Magic on it, DO NOT BUY IT!! If it says Westleys on it, BUY ALL THEY HAVE!!

So when you read old, old posts about using Bleche Wite, pay no attention to them. The stuff you buy today is not the same. What I've found to work damn near as good is Purple Power. It degreases and cleans at the same time. However, I may just have an old stash of Westlys, that I'll be using on everything in this game.

Whatever you decide to use, here's a test to see how good it is. The second pic shows the metal PCB panel which I've sprayed with PP. I've done nothing to it and it simply starts melting the crud away. And this was after about 15 seconds. I will, of course, scrub it with a brush and rinse it well. If your cleaner can do this, it's good shit. If it doesn't, BUY SOMETHING ELSE!!

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#56 10 years ago

I should have mentioned, whether it's Bleche Wite or Purple Power, I use them straight up. No diluting with water.

#59 10 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

Great thread Bryan ! Thanks for taking the time to show others what is involved with a restoration.
I was fined 10K karma points,I may make them up in your thread

Jim got in trouble, Jim got it trouble.

Who loves ya more than me!! Karma, shmarma. I don't pay any attention to that shit, Jim. You know that.

Please, feel free to add anything you'd like. Lots of different ways to do things.

#60 10 years ago

For cleaning, my brush of choice is a tapered paint brush with the bristles cut off about halfway. Makes it a bit stiffer. The cleaners I use are also rather nasty on your skin, so make sure to wear a rubber glove.

The last pic shows all the parts that will get cleaned.

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#61 10 years ago

Oops. Here are the parts to be cleaned.

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#62 10 years ago

This first pic shows a few parts with nothing but Bleche Wite sprayed on them. Can your cleaner do that?

The process is pretty simple. Spay, brush, rinse well. Any electrical components get blown out with the air compressor.

The last pic gives you an example of how much grime came off just those parts. Wait until you see the shit that comes off the stuff on the underside of the playfield!!

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#63 10 years ago

Now it's on to all the wiring harnesses. For these, I like to mix up a "slurry" of Bleche Wite and a little water. The first pic shows the smaller harnesses and the last two show the larger ones.

I simply coil the harnesses up and lay them in the tub. Spin them around while slopping the Bleche Wite on them with the brush. Leave sit for a few minutes to soak, then scrub. It'll take me about 5 minutes to do each of the larger harnesses to make sure every connector and every inch of the harness has been has been cleaned.

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#64 10 years ago

For smaller parts, like the wiring loops, I'll soak them in Simple Green for about 5 days. After that long, the dirt melts right off.

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#68 10 years ago
Quoted from MXV:

What do you pain the black cabinet inside with? Mine needs that and I don't want to do it wrong.

Anything black gets painted with semi-gloss. Gloss just ends up too shiny.

#69 10 years ago

First batch of stuff is out of the tumbler. I'll normally let this stuff tumble for a couple of days. I've had larger, more corroded stuff that I've tumbled for a week or so to get looking nice.

Now, you get the fun of picking all the media out of the screw heads and every little crevice it can get into. A simple pick of some kind works great.

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#71 10 years ago

Here's the next batch. Something to keep in mind when tumbling, the more your parts can move, the faster they'll get cleaned, so don't get carried away with the parts. You'll also find some parts should be tumbled by themselves because they have a way of getting caught up in other parts. Springs are one of the worst to have in with small stuff.

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#72 10 years ago
Quoted from BoJo:

Would an ultrasonic cleaner get that out?

Not sure. Never tried it.

#73 10 years ago
Quoted from TopJimmyCooks:

If cabinet decal corner finishing secrets are not revealed at some point during this thread it will be the end of me.

I hope my camera is still functional when I get to doing the artwork.

#75 10 years ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Thanks- Thinking its time to purchase a tumbler... just in the middle of a restore and lots of dirty screws to deal with. I was doing it by hand with metal polish -cause I enjoy pain...
any brand that works and is cheap?

You can do a search here and you'll find lots of tumbler options. I've had two Berrys for years and love them. The best part about tumbling is, the tumbler does all the work while you do something else.

#79 10 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I've heard that tumbling metal parts can take off the coating from the metal so they oxidize easily. Any truth to this? Does it matter in the grand scheme of things? When you tumble do the screws and parts look as shiny and clean as new?

I've never seen that as an issue and as long as there's no bad corrosion, tumbling can actually make parts shine more than new.

#80 10 years ago
Quoted from BillinIndiana:

Looking at that pile of metal that came out of the tumbler just scares the hell out of me. How do you remember where it all goes? Do you take pics of every part with the screws right next to it or what? I started doing that on my F-14 fixer-upper, then just went to labeling a baggies an putting part and hardware in the same bag. I haven't attempted tumbling anything yet just because of the chore of getting the right hardware back with the right pieces. Whats the secret?

No secret. Once you've done a bunch of restores, you get a feel for where things go. The cabinet hardware is a piece of cake compared to the stuff on the playfield. When it comes time to put everything back in the cabinet, I'll take a pic of this stuff organized and you'll see there's really not much to it.

#81 10 years ago

More work on the head today. First pic shows the original. Sadly, whoever installed the decals, did nothing to rest of the cabinet, other than where the artwork goes. Kind of like putting lipstick on a pig.

To start, I'll use 80 grit paper, then 120 and finish up with 220. The 80 is used to remove the majority of the paint and warning text ink. You do NOT have to remove all of the paint put you DO want to remove all of the warning text. If you leave any of the text, you stand the chance of seeing a slight outline of it after the back is painted. Trust me on this.

Second pic shows after 120 grit sanding. That bottom looks a whole lot nicer than it did from the factory.

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#82 10 years ago

After everything on the outside has been sanded with 80 grit, it's time to fill all the defects. First thing I do is mark all the defects with a pencil. This works best if you have a bright light or sunlight shining on the surface.

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#83 10 years ago

My filler of choice is Bondo. Good thing about Bondo is, it sets up in a matter of a half an hour for sanding, rather than other fillers that have to be left overnight. Bad news is, once you have the Bondo and the hardner mixed, you've got about three minutes to use it before it starts to set up.

Here I've applied the first coat. Most of the time two coats are needed but seeing as the defects in the head are minor, one should do it.

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#84 10 years ago

For removing the Bondo, I'll use 80 grit paper. Anything finer than that and you'll be plugging up your paper. Once the Bondo is removed, I'll move to 120 grit and finally 220 grit.

These two pics kind of show you what the surfaces should look like.

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#85 10 years ago

Next, I'll move to the inside. First thing I do is remove any excess glue along the joints with a paint scraper. The inside of the back simply gets sanded with 120 grit paper. Really no need to go any farther.

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#86 10 years ago

Seeing as the rest of the inside is pretty nice and needs no filling, all I'm going to do is hand sand all the painted areas with 220 grit paper and finish with 320.

Make sure to only sand the areas that need it, with 220. No need to make more work for yourself than you have to. The first pic shows an area that needs the 220. Once I've cover all the spots with 220, I'll go over the entire inside with 320.

The last two pics show the end result.

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#87 10 years ago

Sorry, time for lunch. Hey, how do you expect me to get through he whole day!!

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#88 10 years ago

Now that the inside and outside have been completely sanded, comes one of the most important things. I'm going to "break" or bevel all the edges, both inside and outside. If you've sanding everything correctly, you're going to have some damn sharp edges. You should be able to run your finger along any edge and you'll cut yourself, similar to a paper cut. If you can't do this, you haven't sanded enough.

For all the inside edges, I'll simply use a sanding block with 120 grit paper wrapped around it.

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#90 10 years ago

Shit. Here's what the inside after and before should look like.

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#91 10 years ago
Quoted from Mtpacifico:

Great thread and lots of good info.
I have been using crushed corn in my tumbler with decent results but might have to give walnuts a shot.
- Mike

You'll find walnut shells to be more aggressive than corn cob media and takes less time to get the job done.

#92 10 years ago

For all the outside corners, I'm going to use my Polish belt sander followed up with the 120 grit sanding block. My apologies to all my Polish Pinside friends.

These edges are the most important because this is the edge I'm going to run my razor blade on to cut the artwork. More on that later.

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#93 10 years ago

These pics show some detail of the beveled edges. If done correctly, you should also be able to run a rag along any edge and not have it catch or snag.

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#94 10 years ago

Last thing I need to do before priming is blow the entire cabinet off and run a tack rag over the entire thing. The tack rag will remove any dirt or dust particles.

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#95 10 years ago

Finally, the head is set up in my patented spray booth, ready for priming.

Hey, it ain't pretty but it gets the job done!!

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#96 10 years ago

And here's the primed product. You can prime the inside, if you'd like, but as long as it's already painted, really no need to.

The last pic shows a detail of one of the sides. Now, THAT's what you want it to look like before you apply your artwork.

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#98 10 years ago

And of course, while I'm waiting for Bondo to cure, there's lots of other stuff to do. Most Williams/Bally games were assembled with the head corner brackets installed before they were painted. I prefer the look of bare metal, so I simply soak them in lacquer thinner to strip the paint off. Once that's done, they'll be tumbled before installing in the game.

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#99 10 years ago

I also have to deal with all the carriage bolts. Once soaked in lacquer thinner to remove any old paint, I sand the heads with a red Scotchbrite pad, spray a light coat of primer and finally paint with semi gloss black.

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#100 10 years ago

About a third of the games I do have the metal screens that cover the vent holes, with enough corrosion, that no matter how much cleaning, they just won't look nice. Here's a little trick to make them look new.

Start by scrubbing them with a brass brush. (Brass brushes are the best thing since sliced bread. They remove shit off metal without scratching the metal. Just buy some. You'll love them.) Next, I'll go over them with a red Scotchbrite pad, followed up with a BJ and a tack rag. Get yourself some metallic aluminum paint, apply a couple of very thin coats and they'll look like new.

Notice I said a couple of thin coats. Don't be spraying the shit out of these things or it will look like you sprayed the shit out of these things. The point of spraying them is to hide the corrosion. Thin, thin coats. That's all you need.

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#101 10 years ago

You don't really think I'm going to put this back in a game with those stains on it, do you?? And trust me, no matter how much you clean it, they won't come out.

Here's a little trick to make the PCB panel look better than new. DA sander with 180 grit paper, then 220 grit, then 320 grit then finally red Scotchbrite pad. This whole process will take roughly an hour but the final results are worth it.

BTW This one I got from Chris Hutchins.

#102 10 years ago

DAMN!!! Let's try this again.

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#108 10 years ago
Quoted from mickthepin:

Holly crap you are going all out. This is top notch stuff, what ever price you would put on this machine is not enough. I have spent some time on some machines and you always have to write off the time, but man, it boggles the mind to think.... what would all this time plus parts add up to in the real world. I am defiantly one of those guys that haggles on price but I will be the first to admit, when you buy a fully restored machine, done right like this one, any price (like add it up) ANY price close to what is accepted in this community is fair.

If you want a "restoration" done right, there's only one way to do it. At least, that's the way I see it.

More to come, stay tuned.

#111 10 years ago

Damn. Sorry, Paul, I forgot to mention, once you've got it sanded down, run a tack rag over it and give it a couple very light coats of clear. That's why that last pic shows it hanging from the wire.

#113 10 years ago

I worked on the base cabinet yesterday and today and it's not much different than doing the head. Sand, sand, bondo, sand, sand, bondo, sand, sand, sand, sand, prime, sand, sand, paint.

I would seriously hate to add up the amount of time spent sanding with all the different grits, but when it's all done, it's well worth it.

#114 10 years ago

Here's a little trick I use when Bondoing certain areas. I'll drill a series of small holes to give the Bondo something to "anchor" to.

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#115 10 years ago

And, of course, about the time I flip the cabinet over to deal with the bottom, I find more f'ing repairs needed.

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#116 10 years ago

Here's a pic of the bottom, which is pretty typical. About the only way I know of to clean this up is by sanding.

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#117 10 years ago

First thing I'm going to do is use a paint scraper to remove all the excess glue from the bottom edges.

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#118 10 years ago

Next, I'll go over the entire bottom with 80 grit paper in the DA sander. I'll simply use a sanding block to go around all the edges. Remember, it's particle board and has no grain. Makes no difference what direction you sand.

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#119 10 years ago

Depeding on how many times your game as moved by some ham fisted operator, you're going to have some scratches and gouges to deal with.

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#120 10 years ago

Here's a little trick I learned in the war. Well, not really, but that's what my Dad always says.

Take a pencil and mark all the scratches and the area around them. You simply pretty much sand until the pencil marks are all gone. I'll use my belt sander to get rid of most of them. Again, if you've never used a belt sander, DON'T DO THIS AS YOU MAY F THINGS UP WORSE THAN WHEN YOU STARTED!!

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#121 10 years ago

You're bound to have some that are just too deep to remove. For these, I do two different things. You can take your sander and tip it so the edge is doing the sanding. You want to only remove what you need to. Too much of this and you'll sand some nice grooves in your bottom.

The other way is to take your finger and a piece of sand paper and rub until the spot is gone. Once all that is done, I'll go over everything with the DA to smooth things out. First with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 220.

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#122 10 years ago

Last thing I need to do is sand or "break" the inside edge. I'll do this with a sanding block, but to keep me from hitting and marking up the bottom I just spend an hour getting to look nice, I'll use an old piece of laminate.

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#123 10 years ago

Now comes the worst part of this whole process. Sanding the inside of the bottom. Thankfully, this one is fairly clean but it's still an hour long process.

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#124 10 years ago

First thing I need to do is remove the bracket that holds the transformer. WE DON'T NEED THAT STINKIN THING!! Well, actually we do, but there's no way I'm getting the inside to look nice unless this and the speaker mount are out.

Needless to say, the only way to remove the transformer bracket is to destroy it. Mr. Sawzall works great for that. No sweat, I'll just make another one.

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#125 10 years ago

Ever wonder what's on the bottom side of those brackets. Probably not.

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#126 10 years ago

Here's how you cut an angle on a table saw and the second pic shows my new one installed shortly before the priming.

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#127 10 years ago

After hours of 80 grit sanding and hours of 120 grit sanding and hours of 220 grit sanding, the only thing left to do is sand all the sharp edges inside and out. Most importantly is putting the bevel back on the bottom edge. By the time I'm done sanding, there's not much of it left.

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#128 10 years ago

Oops. Almost forgot new chocks for the back.

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#129 10 years ago

Finally, I'm ready for priming. Well, almost. First, I've got to tape off the entire bottom. There's no f'ing way I'm going to get overspray on that bottom. Because some of my bevel on the bottom edge shows Bondo, I'm going to tape things off so the bevel shows and it'll get painted black.

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#130 10 years ago

Lastly, you need to tape off the entire bottom of the inside. You're going to get a ton of overspray when you paint the inside....and I mean a ton. This involves tape, paper, razor blade and a putty knife to get the tape pressed down around all the edges and corners.

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#131 10 years ago

Did I say razor.

SONOFABITCH!!!

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#133 10 years ago

Finally, the POS is getting primed.

I need a beer.

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#134 10 years ago
Quoted from freezie:

These threads are by far my favorite, nothing but pure knowledge , thanks for doing these I really appreciate it !

Be careful using the name Bryan Kelly and "pure knowledge" in the same sentence.

#138 10 years ago
Quoted from nutshell79:

Bryan,
The artwork on the cabinet I'm working on is really nice (apart from a few minor scuffs) and was wondering if you approach the restore process different, or had any tips when you are working on a game where you keep the original cabinet artwork.
Thanks,
Erik

I've done a few games where the original artwork is left alone, Erik. In fact, I'm currently working on a Congo for a friend in Denver. I can't think of anything that's done differently to those games, other than, the five sides with artwork on them are left alone.

#139 10 years ago

Here's a pic of the back of the Congo. To the right of it is a HUO SS I did the same thing to.

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#143 10 years ago

I finally got around to spraying the base cabinet this morning. The following pics show how important it is to tape off the entire bottom in order to keep the bottom looking nice. Here, the paint is still wet.

When I do the insides of cabinets, I prefer painting the sides, back and front all the way to the bottom. For me, it gives a nicer, cleaner look.

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#144 10 years ago

And here, the back of the head gets the warning text screened.

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#145 10 years ago

I use rattle cans to do all my painting, which can be a bit of a bitch to get a nice even looking paint job, but they're great when you need to get into all the corners and tight places in the inside of the cabinets.

First tip is to use a halogen or bright light to shine on the surface you're painting. Second tip, a full rattle can gives you the best coverage, and gets worse as you spray. Once you're past the half full point, it starts to get worse. Having said that, I don't really care what's in the can when I do the first couple light coats. It's the last and final coat I make sure to use a full can and also make sure to overlap well as I go. With a little practice, you can get a perfect finish.

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#146 10 years ago

I've never kept track of the number of hours involved in the cabinet work, but it's somewhere around 40, and that only includes the time it takes to prep and paint the cabinet. It's the part I enjoy the most (I love woodworking) but it's also the worst. It's kind of like getting kicked in the nuts only because it feels so good when it's over.

The install of the artwork takes about 4 hours. So 40 hours worth of work before you can do the 4 most important hours worth of work!!

#147 10 years ago

Here are a few more parts out of the tumbler. And also most everything for the cabinet organized and ready to go back in.

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#148 10 years ago

Here's the knocker assembly all cleaned up and ready to go back in.

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#151 10 years ago
Quoted from jgreene:

Thanks for the thread Bryan, some great tips here. Looking forward to see the right way to do decals.
What type of paint do you use for the cabinet? I've used Laquer on wood cabinets with great results. Curious if there is a better type to use.

Not sure if there is a "better" paint to use but yes, I use lacquer.

#152 10 years ago
Quoted from PBINTHESOUTH:

Bryan,
Dry application of decals?
Next Gen Williams decals?
And finally how durable should they be (will wrinkling ever occur around legs/buttons/side rails?
Thanks and loving watching your progress..

Stay tuned. More coming soon to a theater near you!!

#153 10 years ago

Polish of choice is Mothers.

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#154 10 years ago

Yes, you can use a small screwdriver to remove staples but once you've used a real, honest to God staple puller, you'll learn to love it.

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#155 10 years ago

You'll be surprised how easy it is to remove stickers and the like with a razor blade. Needless to say, hold it at an angle and use a slicing motion.

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#156 10 years ago

There are certain parts that are tough to clean. This came off the back of the light board in the head. You can use water to remove as much of the dirt as possible, but anything more than that will lighten or remove the ink. For this, I like to use a good (I said GOOD) white erasure.

This erasure also works well on anything made of paper.

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#158 10 years ago
Quoted from Legacy:

One of the most enjoyable threads I have read. Thank you for taking the time to put it all together.

Thanks, Legacy. If I were really good, I'd wait until the entire game was done, then take the time to organize everything and present it in a more organized fashion. Seeing as that ain't going to happen, you're pretty much getting things in real time.

#162 10 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

wow thanks for sharing all the infos and knowledge.
just curious about the bottom of the head, no paint, will it be a good idea to seal the wood?
if so what do you suggest?
thanks again, love this thread!

I leave the bottom as is. You can seal it with clear lacquer, if you'd like. I also do nothing with all the particle board surfaces.

#163 10 years ago

Screened the patent text this morning. I'll leave the head and base cabinets cure for a few days, but for now, it's on to other stupid shit.

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#164 10 years ago

Now it's on to the light board. If you want to do a quick cleaning, compressed air and a paint brush will get the back fairly clean and because of the white vinyl layer on the front, you can use Purple Power to clean that. Not much you can do with the black writing some dipshit put there.

In this case, the entire board will get redone. These two pics are what I'll use for reference pics to make sure everything goes back where it came. No need to tag or mark anything.

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#165 10 years ago

If you look at the front of the sockets, you'll notice they have "fingers" on them that allow them to be pushed in but they don't want to come back out. To remove them, simply grab them with a pliers and while pulling, twist them back and forth.

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#166 10 years ago

The rest is pretty simple. I'll sand the back with 220 grit and the front vinyl layer with 320. Then the front gets sprayed with semi-gloss white lacquer.

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#167 10 years ago

And of course, the socket harnesses get cleaned, rinsed and all the sockets get a BJ with compressed air.

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#168 10 years ago

Here's why I tape off the bottom before I spray.

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#169 10 years ago

Here's a little trick when pulling tape. Pull the tape back onto itself. The tape is less likely to pull unwanted things up when done this way.

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#170 10 years ago

Here's the look I strive for when doing the inside of the cabinet. The reason the cross brace is painted black is it had the white vinyl on the back side and looked like shit.

Too many times, however, the cabinet is going to have some excess overspray around the edges on the bottom. You can see a little of this in the back corners in the first pic, only what I'm talking about is way worse. Particle board is so pores and the paint has soaked so far in, it's damn near impossible to sand it all out.

What I do in a case like that is sand out as much as you can, tape off the entire bottom, spray the inside and once you've removed the tape and paper the following day, you can easily recreate the overspray with a rattle can.

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#171 10 years ago

WTF!! Looks like we gots some custom work right here.

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#172 10 years ago

Throughout the entire restoration process, you're going to find missing and incorrect fasteners and the like. It helps to have a "stash" of this kind of stuff, but if you don't, the best place to find what you need is your local hardware store. You can try the big box stores like Home Depot, but they won't have nearly the selection your hardware store will have.

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#174 10 years ago
Quoted from GaryMartin:

Jeeez, think they cut a big enough opening for the first mode light?!?!? That's crazy

You know where I go for odd ball stuff like this? Pinbits.com. Pam and Martin have some amazing things.

#177 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I like that paint scraper. Never seen one like that, now I must have one.

I could show you all kinds of tools, John, but I don't want to bore people to death with this thread.

#185 10 years ago

Bryan, Instead of painting the cabinet where the art work will be applied, I have been using several coats of polyurethane sanding between coats. It seems to do a great job sealing the wood and ends up with a surface as smooth as glass. Have you tried that, and if so do you think it is a good technique. Also, it appears that I have the same screen for the text as you do. How do you screen the patent text with the chocks on? I have to screen first then install the new chocks due to the size of the screen.
Steven

Steven, there's nothing wrong with the way you do it, but in my humble opinion, you're going a little farther than you have to. THE SURFACE YOU APPLY THE DECALS TO DOES NOT HAVE TO BE LIKE GLASS, but there's nothing wrong if it is. Here' what I do.

After sanding with 80 grit to remove glue and also after Bondo, I sand with 120 grit and finally 220 grit. For each of these steps, I'll go over each surface at least three times. With the final 220 grit, I'll go over everything at least four times. By the time I'm done, all that's left is the very, very minor wood grain. And I mean minor. Keep in mind, at this point, you'll never remove all the fine grain. While removing some, you'll simply develop more in other spots. It will never all go away. And as I said before, anything finer than 220 grit on bare wood is meaningless. I could go over it all with 320 grit but all I'm going to do is polish the wood instead of sand it.

Once primed, scuff sanded and painted, the first two pics show what my cabinet looks like. Needless to say, there's more sanding involved before artwork gets installed but that's coming up.

The next two show an extreme close up of an area that was Bondoed. The light scratches are from some scuff sanding I've already done. You'll notice the Bondoed area is "smooth as glass" and surrounding it are areas that show the fine grain I was talking about. Once the artwork is installed, you can look as close as you want to that same area and YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE BONDOED AREAS AND THE AREAS WITH THE WOOD GRAIN SHOWING!!

Again, nothing wrong with the way you're doing it, but it really isn't necessary.

As for the patent text, I use the one in the last picture, not the one on the larger screen. These were made by a friend of mine, Matt Merfeld. He used one of my restores as a guide an had these made such that you simply slide the screen up against the chock, screen and it locates it perfectly.

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#186 10 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

I've never done a restoration like this one. I mean, I've done nice work to make my games presentable, but never to museum quality like you're doing. I really do have an IJ I planned to make nice so I think I'm going to follow along. What you're showing is absolutely incredible and I also Thank You for showing this incredible process.

You are very welcome, Al. I should warn you though, you better be taking notes, cause I highly doubt I'll ever document things like this again!!

#187 10 years ago

Wut. Bore us? Post more tools! That's almost tiltable porn on this site, are you kidding?

You want tool pics? Here are some f'ing tool pics!!

Now if you have to go rub one off, you can tell your wife it was because of me!!

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#188 10 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You want tool pics? Here are some f'ing tool pics!!
Now if you have to go rub one off, you can tell your wife it was because of me!!

Almost forgot the computer on wheels and TV so I can watch Ellen at 4:00.

#189 10 years ago

Almost forgot the computer on wheels and TV so I can watch Ellen at 4:00.

Well that didn't work worth shit now did it!!

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#191 10 years ago
Quoted from Mtpacifico:

So neat and organized. My workbench looks like a bomb went off.
Can't wait for the next update.
- Mike

Some rate a man's "manliness" by the cylinder index. Go around your house and garage and count the number of cylinders you have in all your gas driven devices. I rate a man's "manliness" by the amount of pegboard he has in his house.

#193 10 years ago
Quoted from Triumvirat73:

Disaster... I'm a wee girly man.

Dude, if you don't have cylinders OR pegboard, you're in deep shit!!

#195 10 years ago

Now I'm going to get a little anal, no pun intended. Did you know there's a good side and bad side to a washer? Washers are simply stamped out of steel. The top side is the good side, the bottom side is the bad side. The top side will have a nice rounded edge and the bottom side will have a more sharp edge.

Tell me which is the good edge on this washer?

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#199 10 years ago

Here I've used a rubber mallet to install all the IDC sockets. I've got three different sized mallets and will show using them again. I also go over every IDC connection to make sure they're tight. Here are two different sizes. In fact, I go over every IDC connector to make sure things are tight, once everything is done. It's surprising how many have come loose from the connectors in the boards from plugging and unplugging.

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#200 10 years ago

And here's the final product, minus the f'ing LED's I have to put in. But if Bob wants LED's, Bob gets LED's.

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#201 10 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

I have some weird obsession with keeping my cabinets original and craptacular but the insides great,

Nothing wrong with that at all, Dan. Someone has to love the ugly girls.

#202 10 years ago

Here's another great use for the rubber mallets...installing translight trim.

The new WPC trims aren't too bad but the WPC-95 ones can be a bitch. They're just a tad too tight. What I do with these is use a wooden dowel, a smidge wider than the trim opening and force it in and work it all along the entire edge. This widens it enough where the install is a lot easier.

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#203 10 years ago

Looks like my next project just showed up. This has to be delivered to an undisclosed location in WI on the 21st, so I may not be back here for a while. But when I do return, it'll be time for IJ artwork install.

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#204 10 years ago

One more "tool" pic. I picked this gem up from a buddy of mine who bought it a couple years ago and never used it. The damn thing is built like a tank. Does anyone have any idea who may have built and sold these? It came unfinished and of course my buddy stored it under a workbench in his garage so it had quite a bit of surface rust, which I had to remove and it then got painted.

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#209 10 years ago

And now on to decal installation. Most decals will come with registration marks, sometimes and sometimes not, indicating the top, bottom and sides of the cabinet. The next three pics show why you probably don't want to use them. You'll see the top of the black, the registration marks and the bottom of the black on the two sides do not line up.

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#210 10 years ago

In the first pic, I've cut the excess decal to the top of the black. Lots easier to line things up with this gone. The second pic shows how I do my measuring to make sure I get the decal to line up properly. All you need to do is press the decal on the edge with a finger and it'll make a ridge that you can measure off of so you get the same amount of black around all the edges.

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#211 10 years ago

Once I've measured half a dozen times and double checked things numerous times, I've decided I need to have 1/4" of black border on the top, so here I'm cutting the decal and will be using a standard utility knife.

I should mention, anytime you do a decal job like this, make sure you use a BRAND NEW BLADE!! If you don't, all kinds of bad things can happen. They're cheap. Just install a new one.

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#212 10 years ago

Now it's time for the install. I've only installed artwork using the dry method. I don't care whether you do it dry or wet, do whatever works best for you, but I won't be spraying any kind of liquid on my cabinets.

For the side head decals, I like to install them from the top down. After measuring and cutting the top edge (and both sides have been cut the same) I peel back about three to four inches of the backing and the excess backing, when folded back, will keep the decal away from the side. I then install the top edge so that it lines up with the top of the cabinet. That's the first pic. The second pic shows the small bevel I put on the top edge. The decal will eventually be trimmed such that the portion installed above the bevel, will be removed.

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#213 10 years ago

If you've never installed decals before, you're going to find them to be quite thin. They should be. We don't want to be installing some thick piece of laminate that once installed, looks like we installed some thick piece of laminate.

Because they are so thin, you need to be careful with them. You'll find them to be rather pliable. If you were to grab two corners and pull hard enough, you could actually stretch or distort them.

Having said that, you need to be careful when it comes time for install and lining up the starting edge. You need to make sure the decal edge follows the cabinet edge perfectly. Because of the thinness, it's easy to get the decal to "smile" or "frown." If that happens, you're going to be in deep shit after installing a few inches of it. Trust me.

#214 10 years ago

Once I've got my edge started, I like to use a cotton rag and run it up and down as I peel the backing back. Peel back about 3/8" at a time while pressing and smoothing with the rag.

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#215 10 years ago

Once the deal is installed, now comes the important part. The way it's been explained to me, the vinyl decals are made from "pressure sensitive" vinyl. What that means is, the adhesive is contained in millions of tiny bubbles and the way it gets released is with pressure. For that, I use a laminate roller and pressing as hard as I can, I'll go over the entire decal.

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#216 10 years ago

Now comes trim time. I'll trim all edges twice. Once, as in the first pic, I'll hold the blade perpendicular to the side to remove most of the excess. The second cut, I'll go "in for the kill." I hold the blade at a 45 degree angle (maybe more) and run it along the edge of the cabinet. This is why it's so important to make sure all your edges are perfect.

When done, you should be able to run your finger up against the edge and not feel the edge of the decal. If you do, you need to cut it again at more of an angle.

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#217 10 years ago

In this first pic, you'll see one side trimmed and the top side not. In the second pic, you'll see the top done.

Again, make damn sure you can't feel the decal edge with your finger!!

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#218 10 years ago

Once your done with all your trimming and you've got the results you want, you will, of course, notice a white edge of the vinyl that results from the trimming. For this, I use a black medium tip paint pen and go around all the edges. This takes a bit of technique to do neatly, but once you've practiced on some scrap wood, it's a piece o' cake.

When done, your edges should look like the second pic. You damn near have to get a magnifying glass out to even see the decal edge.

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#219 10 years ago

At some point during this whole process, you'll want to cut out all the holes for the carriage bolts and the like. For this, I like to use an Exacto knife with a #11 blade. Again, make sure it's SHARP!!

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#223 10 years ago

I forgot to mention. Hey, don't yell at me, you're getting this shit for FREE!! Before I install the decals, I'll clean the top and bottom side of the decal and also the surface it's going on, with compressed air, tack rag, anything short of licking it with my tongue, to make sure I have no particles of any kind that might get between the decal and the cabinet.

#225 10 years ago

If you can't easily do this with the blade, it ain't sharp enough!!

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#226 10 years ago
Quoted from jayhawkai:

I had the opposite reaction - this stuff is best left to the pros.

A wise man knows his limitations. If you don't know what you're doing, DON'T DO IT!!

#228 10 years ago

Next up, the use of my patented "coin door filler plate."

But seeing as it's Friday night and I've had enough of this shit for one day, I need a beer. A nice, tall, cold beer!!

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#230 10 years ago
Quoted from Bay78:

WOW is all I can say Bryan! I'm doing a restoration on a Monster Bash right now and I'm currently working on the cabinet getting ready to put new decals on. My first time doing decals was last year I did my Twilight Zone and I was really happy with how it turned out but I had to learn a hard lesson about using pincab protectors on a freshly decaled game. So I REALLY appreciate this thread and am going to use a lot of your tricks you showed here to help make my Monster Bash cabinet look even better then my Twilight Zone one! Oh and no more pincab protectors on legs for me , this time I'm using the metal leg protectors that Terry sells.

Personally, I think the metal protectors Stern came out with are one of the most revolutionary "mods" in the last few years. Of course, they had to come up with something once they went to installing decals for their artwork to prevent wrinkling. No other protector makes sense to me when installing artwork and protecting it. It's completely hidden and keeps the leg from coming in contact with the cabinet. I also recommend making sure the leg bolts are good and tight. This prevents the leg from "rocking" and contacting the cabinet if you are one who likes to move your games when playing.

#231 10 years ago

After finishing up the artwork on IJ, I'm now installing the cabinet protectors.

In the first pic, I install the protector with leg bolts tightened to keep it in place. I then take my utility knife and cut the artwork around the protector.

The second pic shows the artwork removed. I'm not sure if this part is necessary because with it screwed in place, it shouldn't move causing any wrinkling. But I'm not taking any chances and it only takes a few minutes to do. You can see how well the decals stuck to the cabinet. While removing that little piece, it wanted to take up some small chips of plywood.

In the last pic, I've reinstalled the protector with bolts tightened and installed the two screws holding it in place.

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#233 10 years ago

Here are the other three corners installed.

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#236 10 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Bryan, any insight as to who makes the best decals? I have heard they are not all created equally. Awesome work.

I hate using the term "best." As long as you buy from a reputable manufacturer, you'll be fine. Take a chance buying off Ebay from someone who goes by "DecalsRus" and you might be in trouble.

#237 10 years ago

The heads all done, at least as far as I can go right now.

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#239 10 years ago

If you're into restoring games, do yourself a favor and visit Pinrestore.com. Scot (yes, there's only one t) Bogart started this site years ago. There was a time, most restoration supplies and tools had to be sourced from multiple locations. Scot sourced it all and put it all in one spot.

I would recommend looking at everything Scot has listed. Tools, supplies, you name it. I have a feeling you'll find something you'll need.

And Scot and his wife Deb are super nice people.

#240 10 years ago

thats a beauty.
i see the wire braid, what kind of stapler do you use.

I've had this one for years. Shoots the exact staples you need. All available at Pinrestore.com.

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#241 10 years ago

This is by far the best hose I've ever used. Super lightweight and easy to coil up. Once you've tried this one, you'll throw your old 3/8" or 1/2" rubber hoses away!!

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#243 10 years ago
Quoted from aztarac:

Bryan,
You said you use rattle cans for priming and painting the cabinets - care to share what brand you use? And do you clear over the paint after you are done (in areas that aren't covered with decals)?

Painters Touch. Found at most big box stores. No clear over paint. Just semi gloss black.

#248 10 years ago

I'm waiting for a couple of parts to finish up the cabinet, so it's on to stripping the playfield.

I've seen a whole lot of pics of different types of rotisseries and I guess my thought is, if it works for you, that's all you need. I will say, if you're making one yourself and can somehow come up with a "finger" style mount, I think it makes things easier. The problem with using holey angle iron is, you need to remove quite a bit of stuff from the underside before you can even get the playfield mounted. You can see what I'm talking about in the following pics.

And if you're using any kind of fasteners, instead of clamps, make DAMN sure you use a bolt that runs all the way through the playfield. Do NOT use screws screwed in the playfield.

In the front, I'm using the holes and bolts that held the playfield and lift brackets. In the back, I always remove the slide mechs and run a bolt into the T-nut on the topside.

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#249 10 years ago

When stripping a playfield, the most important thing to do is take lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of pics.

What I like to do is take 8 pics at a time. First is the bottom half from the front. Second is top half from the front. Third is bottom half from the left side. Fourth is top half from the left side and so on. Next, I'll remove a "layer" of items and take the same 8 pics. This continues until all I have left are nothing but posts, such as star posts, slim plastic posts, metal posts with sleeves and the like. Taking pics from the different angles will save your ass at some point. Trust me. You will, at times, want to take specific pics of the way some things come off and whatever you do, if you find yourself thinking you don't need a pic because you'll remember, DON'T LISTEN TO YOURSELF. YOU'RE AN IDIOT. JUST TAKE THE PIC!!

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#250 10 years ago

I think the only thing I take notes on is the location and length of any hex spacers used on the topside of the playfield. You can't tell the length when looking at pics. Otherwise, when it comes time to put it all back, I simply look at my pics in reverse order.

#251 10 years ago

Before I remove anything from the topside, I'm going to flip the playfield over and take pics of all the connections between the parts on the top and the wiring on the bottom. No need to mark them, just make sure your pics are detailed enough to show wire colors.

#252 10 years ago

Shit. I forgot the pics.

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#253 10 years ago

In this same group of pics, I like to include all the coil wire connections. No need to tag them, no need to mark them, no need to cut the wire leaving a small amount of wire color on the coil. Just take a detailed enough pic to see the wire colors.

I should mention at this point, yes, wire harnesses do have a "memory" and will pretty much fall back in place. BUT, and that's a big BUT, there will be at least 5% of it that you will not be sure of, so just take pics and you won't regret it later.

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#255 10 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good.

Shit, Jim. Nice idea!!

#258 10 years ago

This is the last series of pics I'll take.

At this point, I need to start removing things from the bottom side. Many of the ball guides have threaded studs that extend under the playfield and have nuts on them. All of the sleeve type posts also do. It's lots easier to get at these once things are removed from the bottom.

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#259 10 years ago

WTF!! That ain't right. Thankfully, I have pics from past restorations and can check to see what's missing.

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#262 10 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

It is just a white plastic spacer that you are missing .

I know that, Jim. I'm trying to make things appear more dramatic!!

#263 10 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

bryan
in your first pic with the new stern cabinet protectors, you stripped the decal all the way to the bottom edge of the cabinet, but for the other corners it appears that you just cut the decal specifically under the metal protector.
any rhyme or reason for that?

The rear ones are so close to the bottom, I just take it all off. The front ones are mounted higher, so I just cut around the protector. It really wouldn't matter which way you did either of them.

#264 10 years ago

Tool time. Use whatever kind of battery operated drill you feel most comfortable with, but buy a 6" extension for your bits. It'll make life a whole lot easier.

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#265 10 years ago

Just like the topside, I'll be taking a series of 8 pics as things come off the bottom.

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#266 10 years ago

I'll also take pics or make notes of hacks that need to be corrected.

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#267 10 years ago

Seeing as I already have all the pics of an IJ I need from past restorations, I could have this playfield stripped in roughly two hours. Needless to say, it takes a smidge longer to put it all back on.

#269 10 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good.

Jim, if there's anything you'd like to add to this thread, please, feel free. We all know there's lots of different ways to do this shit and the more options people have, the better.

#272 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Brian shot that video several years ago. So much has changed since then. Every restoration is a smidge better than the previous one! I'd love to see the videos though!

Ya know, John, I've given the video footage to three other people who showed an interest in making the videos and nothing has been done. I think people get excited until they see the amount of information and the work involved.

And you are right. I do things differently now and I'm not sure if I'd want some parts shown.

#275 10 years ago

Tool time. Get yourself a set of mini open end wrenches. You will eventually need them.

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#276 10 years ago

Last thing to do on the underside is separate the three harnesses.

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#277 10 years ago

The majority of IJ T-nuts are 8-32 although there are a few 6-32. A simple pic tells me where they are.

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#278 10 years ago

Here's how I remove T-nuts. Insert appropriate sized bolt and tap with a hammer.

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#279 10 years ago

Time for more f'ing tumbling. The nice thing about having two is I can keep things separated. The left is topside, the middle is from the underside and the right is the harness brackets.

And yes, I even tumble T-nuts. Why not. It involves no effort on my part and makes them shine like new.

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#280 10 years ago

Here's another example of what tumbling will do. Needless to say, they'll all look like the one on the left when done.

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#283 10 years ago

Is there a walnut shortage I don't know about?? This used to cost me $20. Now, it's 32$!!!!!

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#284 10 years ago

Damned if I can remember where I got it from, but Flitz is available by the gallon.

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#285 10 years ago

That's it for a few days. I'm leaving tomorrow morning on a 5 hour trip to lovely Benton WI, home of Spooky Pinball World Headquarters and Spotted Cow beer. Word on the street is, we might be assembling a pinball machine.

#287 10 years ago
Quoted from SJJ:

At this point I take pic’s of the location of the hex spacers and print them out. I then write the length of the spacers on the pic,s. Works well for me to get the spacers back to the right location.

Yup. Do whatever works for you, just do it. I just finished up a CC and there must have been at least a dozen, with some only 1/16" difference in length. Most times, you won't know they're in the wrong place until it comes time to install ramps and wireforms. By that time, you may have to remove parts to move them to their correct location.

#288 10 years ago

Almost forgot the mini playfield. Needless to say, all these parts will be kept separate from everything else.

I love jigsaw puzzles but it's nice to know which parts go to which puzzle!!

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#289 10 years ago

One more "tool" pic. I've got five of these wire shelves I picked up at Sams Club. They're great for keeping things organized. The shelves are adjustable and they come on wheels so you can easily move them around.

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#293 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

You can clean them better that way, and the factory installed them one at a time, in a layered fashion

What John said.

#296 10 years ago
Quoted from Triumvirat73:

I'm guessing it's likely charged out on a case-by-case basis. I don't imagine it's very likely that financial details would be discussed in a public forum, but I could be wrong.
I would just PM him if you are considering having a resto done.

I wouldn't mind saying, but the guy I'm doing this for is reading this thread and I'm not sure he'd want me to say.

What I will say is, I charge $3000 for my labor and that's the same no matter what game it is. Some are a tad easier and some are a tad harder but they're all about the same.

What surprises most people is the parts cost. All they think about are the big ticket items like artwork, plastics, ramps, etc. That's only the tip of the iceberg. There are many, many lesser priced things that are included and once all are added up, amounts to quite a bit. Oh, and lets not forget all the chrome, brass and powder stuff that's so popular these days. That all adds to the cost as well.

#299 10 years ago

Time for mylar removal. Here I've got a relatively small piece. I'll start by lifting an edge with a BRAND NEW razor blade. Next, I'll use my compressed air in a can turned upside down. Simply spray while lifting the mylar slightly. I said SLIGHTLY. Let the air do the freezing of the glue and the mylar will simply pop up. Continue this for the full length of the piece. If you don't freeze it enough and you pull too hard on the mylar, you increase the chance of removing artwork, especially on top of inserts. Once the mylar's off, we need to remove the glue.

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#300 10 years ago

For removing the glue, I love me some Orange Power. Simply spray on and spread it over the glue with you finger. The second pic was taken 30 seconds after spraying it on the glue. The third pic is after one minute. Once it loosens, I take a plastic blade and scrape most of it off. After that, spray some on a rag and remove the rest.

This piece took me all of about 3 minutes to remove.

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#306 10 years ago
Quoted from Sly_Old_Devil:

I'm really looking forward to the playfield restoration nitty gritty master class (Vids is excellent as well), don't take this the wrong way but I hope that IJ pf needs a lot of work so we can learn the maximum amount from you, looks in pretty good nick from what I have seen so far though.

I hate to say it, but you'll be waiting a very long time if you want to see me do playfield restorations. That's the only part I don't do when restoring a game.

#308 10 years ago

Cool, do you prep it to a point for a partner to do that bit then Bryan?

I sure do. After cleaning the topside and removing all the mylar, I'll sand the bottom. That's the easiest way to clean the bottom, if you have everything removed.

At this point I should mention, I believe playfields are made out of plywood with a maple outer veneer and the maple they use is hard as hell. It does not sand easily. Because of this, I like to start with Mr. Belt Sander with 80 grit. And again I will say, IF YOU'VE NEVER USED A BELT SANDER OR IF YOU FRIGHTEN YOUR FAMILY ANYTIME YOU'RE NEAR POWER TOOLS, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AT HOME!!

After the belt sander, I'll go over it again with my DA sander with 80 grit also, then 120.

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#309 10 years ago

Them mini playfield was clean enough I just used my DA sander.

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#310 10 years ago

More shiny shit from the tumbler. This is all the stuff from the top of the playfield. Normally, I'll tumble this stuff for a couple of days, but this stuff had more corrosion than normal so this is what you get after 5 days.

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#311 10 years ago

More shit to tumble. Remember, the more your parts move, the better the job and the less time it takes. That's what's nice about having two. These two guys will literally run for days on end during a restoration.

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#312 10 years ago

Tumbling lesson 101. The tumbler on the left is a good thing. The one on the right is a bad thing. If you ever see your media turning greyish, odds are good your parts are clean but will have a dull look to them. I have this happen now and then.

The only thing I can figure out is, the media has been contaminated with something. Not sure what, but you'll never get the parts to shine with it. Throw it out, start with new and you'll thank me for it.

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#313 10 years ago

I always make new wood, playfield siderails for all my games. The old ones always seem to be damaged and all they are is pine or poplar wrapped with a woodgrain vinyl covering. I make mine out of oak and once painted, will look almost identical and provide more strength.

Once cut down to size, I'll cut any recesses with a dado blade. Sand with 120, then 220 then prime, then paint. As with all my paint, I use semi gloss Painter's Touch.

Don't forget to cut all the edges. They're going to be sharp!!

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#314 10 years ago

Best way to paint them is to drill a couple of holes in the bottom, install a couple of finishing nails in some plywood and go to town.

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#315 10 years ago

Here's the look you'll get.

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#316 10 years ago

Here's a tip you'll probably never use. If you're shaking your rattle cans with a paint shaker, make sure to install them upside down. There's a tube that runs from the nozzle to the bottom of the can and if installed right side up, that tube has a very good chance of coming lose, and if it does, your can won't spray worth shit.

Don't ask me how long it took me to figure that out. I said DON'T ASK ME!

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#318 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Interesting circular pattern there.. you been painting some 'pin shoesies'?

I wondered who'd be the first asshole to say that, John!!

#319 10 years ago

I love spending other peoples money. What I hate is, for every restoration, I have to order what I need from at least 10 different suppliers.

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#320 10 years ago

There's no way in hell is the coil in the first pic going in this game. It'll look like the one in the second pic when I'm done.

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#323 10 years ago
Quoted from zsherman:

This is the most comprehensive and intructional thread I have ever read. Excellent work here!

Thanks. I appreciate it!! As long as I know people are actually reading this, I'll keep it up.

I'm normally a very organized person and would have much preferred putting things together here in a more organized fashion, but if I waited until I was done, I'd have a gazillion pics and it would take me forever to do and I'd have another restoration to do and wouldn't really feel like doing it, so I know damn well, it would never be done.

So instead, you get this shit pretty much in real time as I do all aspects of a complete restoration.

#325 10 years ago

More cleaned, tumbled shiny shit!!

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#326 10 years ago

Tool time. Get yourself some tubular brushes. You'll find a ton of uses for them. They're great for cleaning out all the dried polishing compound in the holes and slots in a freshly cleared playfield and also for cleaning out the center of coils.

#327 10 years ago

Sonofabitch!!

Forgot the pic.

#328 10 years ago

Houston, we have a problem. Not sure why this batch of pics won't load.

I'll try again.

#329 10 years ago

Now I'm getting pissed!!

Let's try one from yesterday.

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#330 10 years ago

Well, this ain't good. Maybe the pics have to ferment on my computer for a day or two.

Anyone know why the pics won't load? They're taken with the same camera and loaded to my computer the same way and I'm uploading them here the same as all the rest.

I'll try one more from today.

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#331 10 years ago

OK, now I'm confused. I need a beer. I'll be back.

#334 10 years ago

On more try for the brush pic.

#335 10 years ago

Time to get my hands dirty. I'll be taking notes as I tear apart all the coil mechs.

#336 10 years ago

Lots of dirt.

#337 10 years ago

Mech on the left is incorrect.

#338 10 years ago

Testes, testes. Not sure why the pics won't upload.

#339 10 years ago

Not sure what's up with the pics. Sometimes the text shows and not the pic and sometimes, even though I've entered text, I get an error message saying I need to enter some content.

I've sent Robin a message. If anyone else has a clue, please let me know. Otherwise all these pics will be locked forever in my f'ing camera. And I've come too far in this thread to stop now.

#341 10 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

bryan:
maybe there is a problem with the number of images in this post thread. can you start up a new thread (eg. part: 2) and see if that clears up the problem for now? lord knows, we all want to see your pictures with your comments!!

I'll just wait until I get an answer from Robin or one of the other mods. As of right now, I'm just beating my head against a brick wall....and it hurts!!

#344 10 years ago

OK, I just switched to Google Chrome and tried to upload some pics from today and I get the same message about needing to submit some content.

#345 10 years ago

Let's try some pics from a few weeks ago.

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#346 10 years ago

OK, it seems to have something to do with when I took the pics. I did go with a different camera for the last three days, but I was still able to upload some of those.

#347 10 years ago

Here's a pic from three days ago when I switched cameras.

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#348 10 years ago

Let's try one from yesterday.

#349 10 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Let's try one from yesterday.

Nope. Won't upload the pic.

#352 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

The files may be toooooo big, Bryan.

So how big is allowed and I take it I'm screwed if one is too big? Funny, I've never had this issue before.

#355 10 years ago
Quoted from Triumvirat73:

Your camera maybe shooting in RAW or uncompressed mode in which case the file size of the images may be huge.

I'm still wondering why sometimes it posts my text and no pic and sometimes it won't post anything and it gives me the error message that I need to post some content.

Can you recommend a good image e editor? I'll try it, but if I have resize every pic I may say screw it. I spend too much time as it is posting this crap!!

#357 10 years ago

I'm now using a Canon Power Shot SD790 IS. Is there some way of setting it to take the pics the way I want them? I hate this f'ing computer sh******t!!

#359 10 years ago

test

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#360 10 years ago

test

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#363 10 years ago

Each of those last two pics were over 5MB and did not load. The two with the tube cutter are under 5MB and will load individually but not together in the same post. In fact, they're close in size but why is one so much larger than the other? I know I've loaded way more than 5MB worth of pics in the same post and it works. More than once, I've posted up to six pics before.

#364 10 years ago

Testes, testes.

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#366 10 years ago

Thanks, Triumvirat73. Looks like it worked perfectly.

If there happens to be a mod reading this, you can delete all the posts about my pic problem. No need to read this crap.

#368 10 years ago

Let's try a pic of the tubular brushes again.

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#369 10 years ago

Time to get my hands (and fingers) dirty. I'll be taking notes as I dissemble all the coil mechs.

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#370 10 years ago

The flipper plate on the left is incorrect and you want to make damn sure you install nuts on the backside of the bolts that hold the flipper bushings. Lots of vibration going on there.

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#371 10 years ago

Now and then I run into a brass sleeve. I just throw them away. The second pic shows a coil sleeve I can't get out. This tells me the coil has gotten hot and has expanded. I won't mess with these and they get tossed also.

I know where there might be more.

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#372 10 years ago

For the most part, I'll simply remove the coil in each mech and put everything back together but leave everything loose. This is how I'll do the initial cleaning with Bleche Wite. This is easier than cleaning a ton of small parts. Many times, if there's only dirt involved, this is all that's needed with the simple parts shown. More complicated parts, like drop target banks, need more attention.

And of course, I take pictures of everything before I take things apart. You'll also find most of these parts in your manual.

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#376 10 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

excellent as always bryan.
at what point do you just trash (and replace) the coil brackets that have the metal stops on them (the ones that end up getting mushroomed)?
eg. the center 3 (visible) in your photo above

If they're mushroomed, they just get tossed. The three in that pic are not. They're just dirty.

#377 10 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Bryan -
Kind of off topic, but what kind of storage unit is that in your pucture. Almost looks like an open front Vidmar cabinet.
Thanks,
Chris

That thing came from the bank in town. It's what stored all their signature cards back in the day. It weighs a ton and a half but the drawers pull all the way out and can hold a LOT of weight!!

#378 10 years ago

Many times I'll get new parts and don't like the way they look. That's right, in the tumbler they go.

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#379 10 years ago

I'm not liking what I'm seeing. Normally, if there's corrosion, it will appear uniform over the entire piece. In this case, it almost looks like some kind of liquid has been spilled on this stuff.

Looks like I'm going to have to tumble damn near every part. And these have been cleaned. That's not dirt you're seeing.

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#380 10 years ago

Here's my one good flipper plate and some old ones I've never gotten around to tumble. For these I pull up the big guns. The Dillon. This one is big enough to do most of the larger parts that won't fit in the Berry.

The sonofabitch holds a little better than ten pounds of media, but I use it so seldom, the stuff lasts a long, long time. I actually had to tumble two of them at a time. Any more than that and they got tangled and wouldn't move.

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#382 10 years ago
Quoted from notaflyingtoy:

Pardon my total ignorance, but what about the plate on the left is incorrect?
Thanks for doing this.

Look at the bracket that holds the spring and EOS switch. It will certainly work, but it should look like the one on the right.

#383 10 years ago

The tumbling of all the mech parts is going to be a long process. To keep things organized, I'll tumble a few of them at a time and all the associated parts.

This will go on for days. The nice thing is, while the tumblers do all the work, I'm off working on something else.

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#384 10 years ago

Time to wash coils. First, I'll organize them and take a pic. They will then be cleaned and kept in this same order so I know which ones are which. If I get them screwed up, I can always measure the resistance and compare it to a known coil.

The second pic shows them with the wrappers removed, ready for cleaning. To clean them, I'll spray them with Bleche Wite (you can use Mean Green, Purple Power or your cleaner of choice) and scrub them well with my cut in half paint brush. Don't forget to clean the inside with a tube brush. They then get rinsed well.

The third pic shows them after I've baked them in the oven for 2 hours at 350 degrees. OK, I lied about that part. I simply leave them sit for a couple of days to dry.

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