(Topic ID: 61082)
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Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Phoenix, AZ
Quoted from johnwartjr:Bryan,
Will Bleche Wite remove hard water stains on my glassware?
Can I use purple power to clean my bathroom grout?
Which fork do I use for my salad?
I don't think so, you can try but I doubt it'll work and you SUCK, John. 
Here are four of my favorite friends. Just keep in mind, the Bleche Wite you buy today SUCKS, unless it says Westleys. And about the only way you'll find Westleys is at some Mom and Pop hardware store in East Jesus MN where there merchandise takes forever to turn over.
Orange power is a great degreaser and adhesive remover but it doesn't clean all that well.
Bleche Wite is a fabulous cleaner, but it won't remove grease.
Purple power is a great cleaner and will remove some grease, but it's no where close to what Orange Power does.
I use denatured alcohol on all kinds of small cleaning jobs. Cleans and degreases and evaporates quickly leaving no residue.
The key to using these is knowing when to use them and when NOT to use them and what to use them on and what NOT to use them on.
Quoted from johnwartjr:Bryan,
Are there any houses for sale in your neighborhood?
Nevermind, MN gets COLD!
john, even if there were, I'm not sure if brYan has a tumbler large enough to clean it up prior to you moving in
Quoted from j_m_:john, even if there were, I'm not sure if brYan has a tumbler large enough to clean it up prior to you moving in
I've told my wife many times she might someday find the clothes dryer full of walnut shells. Think about it.
Re-graining ball guides....I think I'd rather be kicked in the nuts. Yes, yes I would. I hate this part.
Tools I'll use are 120 (yes, I said 120) grit sand paper, 180 grit, 220 grit and red Scotchbrite pads.
I'll start with the coursest grit I need in order to remove the worst wear, which is usually the center of the guide where the ball travels. If all it takes is the 220, that's all I'll use. If it takes the 120, so be it. The key is to only sand those areas that need it. No sense in sanding the entire guide with 120. That's a lot of scratches you need to remove for no reason. Once I've removed the worst with 120 or 180, I'll then go over everything with the 220. The final step is the pads. I find it lots easier to get nice straight lines with the pads as compared to the paper.
Once sanded, I'll wipe them all down with denatured alcohol to remove any residue.
Beauharnois
Quoted from beatmaster:sanding by hands or machine?
and i guess same direction of the metal grain.
I do it by hand and yes, in the direction of the original grain.
They make flap type sanding wheels in different grits you can place in a drill and do it that way. I tried them once and didn't like the results I got.
Bryan, thanks for all of the great info!
A few questions I hope someone can answer...
1.What can I use as tumbler media instead of walnut shells that might work better than corn cobb? My kids have nut allergies and none are allowed in the house?
2. Where did you get your coil wrappers? I could use some for the TFTC that I am working on.
Thanks!
Quoted from NickRocco:Bryan, thanks for all of the great info!
A few questions I hope someone can answer...
1.What can I use as tumbler media instead of walnut shells that might work better than corn cobb? My kids have nut allergies and none are allowed in the house?
2. Where did you get your coil wrappers? I could use some for the TFTC that I am working on.
Thanks!
Sorry, no answer to your first question but I agree, corn cob media isn't aggressive enough for most of my tumbling needs.
The coil wrappers are available from BAA or Planetary Pinball. Rick is the only one who makes these and they are about as original as you can get.
Remember the ball trough? Because of the corrosion, someone tried their best to clean it up but it was trashed. It also had a hacked opto board.
It will be replaced with a new one from Kerry Stair at Mantis Amusements and also new boards from Tony at Great Lakes Modular. Both make some well needed parts and are great to work with.
Almost done with the coil mechs. As long as I'm showing you a drop target mech, I'll mention,
NEVER USE GREASE OR ANY OTHER KIND OF LUBRICATION ON DROP TARGETS!!
If you have one that seems to stick or is slow to operate, odds are good someone before you greased it and that grease is now hardening and causing problems. Best thing to do is take it apart, clean everything well and you should be good.
Quoted from NickRocco:Is that a new ball trough or did you clean it in a tumbler? Looks new but so do all of the other restored parts.
Also, do you purchase the SprayWay Orange Power locally or do you need to order it online?
If you read the text you'll see the trough is new. I get the Orange Power and most of the rest of my restoration supplies and tools from Pinrestore.com
Thanks for the pics on cleaning the larger metal parts and assemblies. I'm still wrestling with how to clean the parts that are "too large to tumble". I have pins and screws in my wrist and can't manually get large parts looking like new. I need to get one of those big momma tumblers!!!
What do you do with parts that just don't fit in the Dillon? Do they usually get replaced like that ball trough?
Quoted from radium:Thanks for the pics on cleaning the larger metal parts and assemblies. I'm still wrestling with how to clean the parts that are "too large to tumble". I have pins and screws in my wrist and can't manually get large parts looking like new. I need to get one of those big momma tumblers!!!
What do you do with parts that just don't fit in the Dillon? Do they usually get replaced like that ball trough?
Normally I won't find this amount of corrosion and all that's needed is cleaning all the coil mech parts. This game is a bit of an exception and all those parts had to be tumbled. So far, all that's been replaced is the ball trough.
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