(Topic ID: 61082)

IJ restoration complete


By Bryan_Kelly

6 years ago



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  • 694 posts
  • 116 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by insx
  • Topic is favorited by 347 Pinsiders

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There are 694 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 14.
#651 6 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

Looks great Bryan, not bad, for a old guy .

Old is in the eye of the beholder, ASSHOLE!!

I have no idea what the f that means.

#652 6 years ago

And for those who don't know, in between restorations, I make these dumbass things.

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#653 6 years ago

Great thread, and top notch work Bryan !

But still .... i keep coming back to this thread expecting to see some indication of your other "hobby" ... sheep, blending in to this thread

#654 6 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Great thread, and top notch work Bryan !
But still .... i keep coming back to this thread expecting to see some indication of your other "hobby" ... sheep, blending in to this thread

Thanks, Thor, but the sheep jokes got old a LONG time ago.

#655 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Thanks, Thor, but the sheep jokes got old a LONG time ago.

I agree - Baaaahhh!

Actually - Thanks for doing this - it will be incredibly helpful on my own restorations. You're really one of the good guys Bryan!

#656 6 years ago

I thought this was going to go on and on and on and on

Nice work as always Bryan.

#657 6 years ago

Top notch work Bryan. I am sad that I won't have a good restoration thread to follow now.

#658 6 years ago

Thanks, guys. It was kind of fun to do this once, but I won't be doing it again. No sense in boring you with the same stuff over and over again. When I started this thread, there were maybe one or two other similar threads. Now, there seem to be quite a few. Some are damn good, while others, not so much. I'll let some of the other guys show how things can be done.

#659 6 years ago

Bryan. My IJ did not have the Gi light with socket installed in the fourth lane divider up top either. It was pinholed for it to be installed but was not from the factory. I did install one as well on mine. I think it looks much better with it. Thx for the writeup.

#660 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Time to go in the cabinet. You'll notice how much easier this is when the cabinet is on a lift and sitting almost on the floor.

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Bryan, I also take the legs off and drop the cab when taking the pf in and out, but it's still heavy and awkward. When I do cab decals, I save the backing to line the inside of painted cabs and secure with blue tape when dropping the pf in to prevent scratching, but I'm still trying to think of an easier way to physically lift the pf in and out. I've considered the Harbor Freight shop lift. What do you think? Or is there an easier way to "roll" the pf in and out like SWE1 and RFM?

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#661 6 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Bryan, I also take the legs off and drop the cab when taking the pf in and out, but it's still heavy and awkward. When I do cab decals, I save the backing to line the inside of painted cabs and secure with blue tape when dropping the pf in to prevent scratching, but I'm still trying to think of an easier way to physically lift the pf in and out. I've considered the Harbor Freight shop lift. What do you think? Or is there an easier way to "roll" the pf in and out like SWE1 and RFM?

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I'm not sure if a lift like that would lift the playfield high enough. I've seen pics of someone with a block and tackle attached to the ceiling joists. That would work. I just do it all by hand. Taking them out is simple but putting them back in a restored cabinet is a little different. I was going to take pics of me putting it back in but I don't have a third hand to take the pics.

Look at this pic. You'll notice the light board on the back of the backboard is removed. You'll also notice the two folded up towels next to the playfield. Behind the playfield is a stool about the height of the top of the bottom cabinet. It also has two folded up towels on it. I don't show the thin towels I use to drape over the cabinet sides so I don't scratch the inside of the cabinet.

All I do is turn the playfield upside down and set it on the towels. Yeah it's awkward, but it's doable. The motor and target are on either side of the towel. I then lift it onto the towels on the stool. Now I can place all the harnesses inside the cabinet. I've also got a towel inside the game because I'm going to take my right foot and step inside the cabinet. Now I take a deep breath, say f**k it, grab the playfied and gently set it in place.

If a grey haired 58 year old guy can do it, most anyone can.

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#662 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Thanks, guys. It was kind of fun to do this once, but I won't be doing it again. No sense in boring you with the same stuff over and over again.

Not the same stuff, sure, but I bet something interesting/new comes up with each pin you restore, and I'd sure enjoy reading/learning about it.

In any case, thanks for this awesome thread!

#663 6 years ago

Great thread!!!! That IJ is perfection!!!!

#664 6 years ago

Thanks for doing the thread. Great information for those of us to aspire to restore.

#665 6 years ago

Just wish to reiterate what everyone else has posted.

This thread has most definitely taught me some new tips, as im sure it has to others.Never to old to learn

Once again, thank you Brian for taking the time to post the IJ resto.

Exceptional work !

#666 6 years ago

One of the best overall learning posts. I learned tons thank you.

#667 6 years ago

What I learned is that if I want to upgrade my player's pin I can do that and this might help, but if I want something really nice I'll need to give Bryan a call.

#668 6 years ago

When I do this to my IJ I will be looking at the thread closely again. If only Bryan and I lived closer I would get him to do it though as he does a superb job but over about 12,000 miles is a bit far me thinks.

#669 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

...My heart kind of sank when I heard him say, "I'm losing it!!"

I thought this was IJ, well BSD, not BOP?

#670 6 years ago

On one hand I am now really depressed because my restores look like crap compared to yours, but on the other hand I am encouraged because I see that it IS possible to make a machine look this fantastic.

Thanks for all the awesome tips Bryan

#671 6 years ago

All your restore needs now is the actual Grail Diary from The Last Crusade...

http://www.auctionzip.com/aflive.html?method=getLotInfo&lotref=C4DD66B3B1&seq=404

3 months later
#672 5 years ago

What, no updates? It's been 3 months, surely you have a new tip to share with the rest of us?

1 week later
#673 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

What, no updates? It's been 3 months, surely you have a new tip to share with the rest of us?

John, this thread is DEAD. Nothing more to see here.

I've actually been quite busy but I don't think you want to see the same shit done to a different game. I'll let some others entertain you with their process and pics. You know, the ones who do it for EVERY single game they shop out.

#674 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

John, this thread is DEAD. Nothing more to see here.
I've actually been quite busy but I don't think you want to see the same shit done to a different game. I'll let some others entertain you with their process and pics. You know, the ones who do it for EVERY single game they shop out.

If I wanted to see the same sh*t, I'd just start back at page 1.

But, I had hoped that maybe you learned something new and wanted to share it with us. That's all!

3 weeks later
#677 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

What, no updates? It's been 3 months, surely you have a new tip to share with the rest of us?

This one's for you, John. I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner for Christmas. I got the Kendal HB49 off Amazon. Tank is 12X9X6 and holds damn near everything I need to clean. About the only thing it won't hold are the harnesses from the playfield, but it will hold the harnesses from the cabinet.

I use a 50/50 mix of Purple Power and water and I heat it up to about 150 degrees. I also run everything for 10 minutes.

Once I have everything ready to clean, I get a system going. Put parts in and run for 10 minutes. Once parts are done, put more parts in and run for 10 minutes. While those parts are running, I'll rinse and blowdry the parts I just took out. This whole process can go on for about 3 hours or so.

I found I can clean some things by hand and have them come out just as clean, but the ultrasonic works incredibly well on harnesses and coils. They come out looking damn near brand new.

#678 5 years ago

Nice.

I need to upgrade my ultrasonic. Maybe that's the one for me

An update without pics though? I'll let this one slide, I guess

#679 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

This one's for you, John. I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner for Christmas. I got the Kendal HB49 off Amazon. Tank is 12X9X6 and holds damn near everything I need to clean. About the only thing it won't hold are the harnesses from the playfield, but it will hold the harnesses from the cabinet.
I use a 50/50 mix of Purple Power and water and I heat it up to about 150 degrees. I also run everything for 10 minutes.
Once I have everything ready to clean, I get a system going. Put parts in and run for 10 minutes. Once parts are done, put more parts in and run for 10 minutes. While those parts are running, I'll rinse and blowdry the parts I just took out. This whole process can go on for about 3 hours or so.
I found I can clean some things by hand and have them come out just as clean, but the ultrasonic works incredibly well on harnesses and coils. They come out looking damn near brand new.

The ultrasonic is amazing.

2 months later
#680 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I love spending other peoples money. What I hate is, for every restoration, I have to order what I need from at least 10 different suppliers.

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Hi, thanks for your extra effort to document your work. Absolutely awesome! Nice work on the IJ!
I have just started with my first machine - a Fish Tales.

I would really appreciate if you could list your top suppliers. As you said, it looks to me that it is impossible to find everything you need from just one source. In Europe it is even worse, and it could be worth the hassle with shipping and customs, if you just can find the parts you need.

2 months later
#681 5 years ago

Noice!

4 months later
#682 4 years ago

Update on location to get the labeled ties for the harness while cleaning. $5 throw in for any order over $35.
-mof

amazon.com link »

#683 4 years ago

Whenever this thread gets resurrected I have a fantastic time going through the entire thing. This is one of those legendary threads that I will simply never, ever get bored of.

P.S. Is it possible that this IJ gets better looking every time I relive this thread?? It sure seems like it!

6 months later
#684 4 years ago

When you sand the back of the playfield. Don't you give it any protection after?

1 year later
#685 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Ever since Kerry Stair came out with stainless lock bar receivers, I don't even deal with trying to make the old ones look nice.

Bryan, where can you find new stainless lock bar receivers these days? Didn't see them on Mantis' site. Thanks! Craig

#686 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Bryan, where can you find new stainless lock bar receivers these days? Didn't see them on Mantis' site. Thanks! Craig

I've told Kerry it's a bit confusing. Look under misc. or Bally/Williams.

#687 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I've told Kerry it's a bit confusing. Look under misc. or Bally/Williams.

Thanks brother. Found them here: https://mantispinball.com/product-category/misc/page/2/ When would somebody buy the one without a spring?

#688 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Thanks brother. Found them here: https://mantispinball.com/product-category/misc/page/2/ When would somebody buy the one without a spring?

It just has to do with originality. Most WPC games had to no spring. That was added with the WPC95 games.

9 months later
#689 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

After sanding with 80 grit to remove glue and also after Bondo, I sand with 120 grit and finally 220 grit. For each of these steps, I'll go over each surface at least three times. With the final 220 grit, I'll go over everything at least four times. By the time I'm done, all that's left is the very, very minor wood grain. And I mean minor. Keep in mind, at this point, you'll never remove all the fine grain. While removing some, you'll simply develop more in other spots. It will never all go away. And as I said before, anything finer than 220 grit on bare wood is meaningless. I could go over it all with 320 grit but all I'm going to do is polish the wood instead of sand it.
Once primed, scuff sanded and painted, the first two pics show what my cabinet looks like. Needless to say, there's more sanding involved before artwork gets installed but that's coming up.

Feeling a bit strange about bringing up that thread but since I have been using as my main reference for my TAF full restoration it may bring it up for other people.

After all the bondo and sanding (120-220-320), I put a couple coat of primer waited 24 hours then a couple coat of black paint though the coverage is pretty good there is a lot of bumps still showing through and the result is not very smooth (especially back of backbox and cabinet)...
Should i have done at least 3 coats of primer? scuff sand between primer and paint or between paint coats even?

#690 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Feeling a bit strange about bringing up that thread but since I have been using as my main reference for my TAF full restoration it may bring it up for other people.
After all the bondo and sanding (120-220-320), I put a couple coat of primer waited 24 hours then a couple coat of black paint though the coverage is pretty good there is a lot of bumps still showing through and the result is not very smooth (especially back of backbox and cabinet)...
Should i have done at least 3 coats of primer? scuff sand between primer and paint or between paint coats even?

Am I understanding correctly you did NOT sand between primer and paint? If you did not, that's definitely your problem. You need to sand the primer with 320 grit paper. I would also wait twice as long as the can says before painting. Your paper won't clog as easily.

#691 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Am I understanding correctly you did NOT sand between primer and paint? If you did not, that's definitely your problem. You need to sand the primer with 320 grit paper. I would also wait twice as long as the can says before painting. Your paper won't clog as easily.

When I re-read most of the posts I had a feeling this would have been my main issue. Either way, it was very helpful and a good learning experience. I may just sand it back down with 320 and repaint the worst area.
thanks for all your help Bryan!

2 months later
#692 2 years ago

More thread resurrection but as hisokajp said, this is something of a reference guide. It looks like you went to a lot of trouble priming and painting the backbox but the main cabinet was only sprayed black around the edges and not primed. Is that right?

#693 2 years ago
Quoted from insx:

More thread resurrection but as hisokajp said, this is something of a reference guide. It looks like you went to a lot of trouble priming and painting the backbox but the main cabinet was only sprayed black around the edges and not primed. Is that right?

The main cabinet got primed, just like the backbox. There's a pick of it primed grey on page 3.

#694 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The main cabinet got primed, just like the backbox. There's a pick of it primed grey on page 3.

Ah, thanks. I missed that somehow and then on page 4 there are some pics where it doesn't look so grey and also some woodgrain pics so I got confused.

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