(Topic ID: 101380)

IJ - Mirror Blades & Lost Plastic

By Jean-Luc-Picard

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

I ordered a set of stainless steel mirror blades for IJ. I am stuck between drawing/printing my own decals or use the blades. I wasn't hesitant until I noticed not much of the sides are even visible. So much is covering it, mini playfield, rocks, planes etc. Do mirror blades have enough real estate to even reflect anything? Is it a waste to put them on IJ? Anyone have any photos?

Installing the Lost Plastic, added LED strips under the bridge and flex on top.

#2 9 years ago

I'd put the Treasure Cove decals on: http://www.treasure-cove.net/images/IJsb1.jpg
and save the blades for another game

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

I'd put the Treasure Cove decals on: http://www.treasure-cove.net/images/IJsb1.jpg
and save the blades for another game

I saw them, I would rather make my own if I would go decals. In fact, I think I will. I would like to match the "lost Plastic" a bit better. I would put them on my ST:TNG but I don't think I will have enough clearance. So they may end up in my T2 or FT.

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

So they may end up in my T2 or FT.

I've seen T2 with blades....looks really good. I am not a fan of IJ with the blades and never put them on mine....I ended up trading IJ away before getting decals on (basically too lazy to do it)

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

I've seen T2 with blades....looks really good. I am not a fan of IJ with the blades and never put them on mine....I ended up trading IJ away before getting decals on (basically too lazy to do it)

My issue is I am always adding more and more to my gadget/mods/art list that it becomes overwhelming and a burden lol. But I do get them done, just stresses me out when I get tooo many. lol. I think they will go on T2

#6 9 years ago

I bought a NOS lost plastic for the IJ shortly after I got the game.....15 years later, it was still hanging on my wall

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

I bought a NOS lost plastic for the IJ shortly after I got the game.....15 years later, it was still hanging on my wall

lol, yeah I wont let that happen. Will find out what I all have to remove when I get home. I wonder if I can just unscrew whats attached and remove the wood? No idea. But I really hope I dont have to remove everything....

#8 9 years ago

I just cut mine with a pair of scissors, that way you don't have to take as much off to get it on. Ed

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

I just cut mine with a pair of scissors, that way you don't have to take as much off to get it on. Ed

You cut the plastic? Or do you have the decals? After shipping I dont think I want to cut the $105 lost plastic lol.

#10 9 years ago

Yes I cut the plastic. I was to lazy to remove things to install it. Ed

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

Yes I cut the plastic. I was to lazy to remove things to install it. Ed

eeek!!! Well, I took a look last night and it isnt that bad. I have to remove the bridge and ramp just to remove the mini-playfield which I need to do anyway. Will try tonight.

#12 9 years ago

So, on mine.. early production/re-import, has the original lost plastic, and a set of lights through the wood (pretty big routed hole) to light it up. So do people add the lights too or the plastic alone?

On topic: Nah I wouldn't do mirror blades on IJ for the same reasons you mentioned. Decals, maybe.. there really is so much going on along the edges.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

So, on mine.. early production/re-import, has the original lost plastic, and a set of lights through the wood (pretty big routed hole) to light it up. So do people add the lights too or the plastic alone?

On topic: Nah I wouldn't do mirror blades on IJ for the same reasons you mentioned. Decals, maybe.. there really is so much going on along the edges.

I was thinking of maybe re-painting the black jet black then varnishing the wood so it will be high gloss reflective.

#14 9 years ago

Installed the "Lost Plastic" last night. Talk about a B*tch. First of all 2 of the holes did not line up so I drilled them a tad larger. I had to remove the mini-playfield, bridge, left-lower ramp, scoop, captive ball wire, switch & opto, almost completely remove the entire right side ramp, remove all the brackets attached to the back. lol, what a pain.

One side effect from adding the plastic, the added thickness pushes the post hold out of wack. So I had to only use one screw that holds the solenoid bracket so I could twist its position to clear the hole. Otherwise it hangs.

LED strip under bridge and Flex light on top. "will have a double headed flex light soon". If you are curious where that blue light is coming from. That is a "SLOW" RGB changing light under the captive ball.

unnamed.jpgunnamed.jpg

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Installed the "Lost Plastic" last night. Talk about a B*tch. First of all 2 of the holes did not line up so I drilled them a tad larger. I had to remove the mini-playfield, bridge, left-lower ramp, scoop, captive ball wire, switch & opto, almost completely remove the entire right side ramp, remove all the brackets attached to the back. lol, what a pain.
One side effect from adding the plastic, the added thickness pushes the post hold out of wack. So I had to only use one screw that holds the solenoid bracket so I could twist its position to clear the hole. Otherwise it hangs.
LED strip under bridge and Flex light on top. "will have a double headed flex light soon". If you are curious where that blue light is coming from. That is a "SLOW" RGB changing light under the captive ball.

unnamed.jpg 64 KB

ohh no, I was planning on doing this and now this make me want to procrastinate.

#16 9 years ago

Its worth it. Just takes time. I love how it looks.

#17 9 years ago

I like this lighting method far more than the standard modification behind the lost plastic.

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Its worth it. Just takes time. I love how it looks.

I second that. I planned a whole list of things to do while I had the entire upper-half of the playfield disassembled. It looks so much more complete now.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

I like this lighting method far more than the standard modification behind the lost plastic.

Jean-Luc-Picard said:
Its worth it. Just takes time. I love how it looks.

I second that. I planned a whole list of things to do while I had the entire upper-half of the playfield disassembled. It looks so much more complete now.

Yeah it looks REALLY nice. Very hard to take a photo. I need to order the double head flex, right now its a warm yellow flex and the bottom is a white. so they dont match perfectly. I have some warm gels that I may put over the comet LED strip or use a white flex so they match.

#19 9 years ago

Hey Jean-Luc-Picard. How are you going to print and mount your side playfield graphics?

#20 9 years ago

Still undecided. I either repaint the inside black and varnish it so it's reflective. Or I make the decals. If I do, I print them on vinyl via my plotter then laminate it. The decals can be sprayed with windex so you can slide them into position. Not sure what I will do yet.

#21 9 years ago

What type of vinyl material are you talking about?

I have a wide format Epson Pro 4800 inkjet. It's an 8 color photo printer, if you are unfamiliar with it. I would like to make some decals for my IF and TZ, but an unsure about what media to use.

#22 9 years ago

I buy all my plotter paper from http://www.macroenter.com/ search FastPlot Self Adhesive Vinyl. Down side is it is a matte paper so you will not get vivid colors like a photo gloss. But when you laminate it the colors look richer. Or you use photo paper and add your own adhesive. But the FastPlot is waterproof.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

I buy all my plotter paper from http://www.macroenter.com/ search FastPlot Self Adhesive Vinyl. Down side is it is a matte paper so you will not get vivid colors like a photo gloss. But when you laminate it the colors look richer. Or you use photo paper and add your own adhesive. But the FastPlot is waterproof.

Cool, thanks.

I assume I would have to use mylar, like used on a playfield. Is that what you mean about laminating it?

#24 9 years ago

Mylar is pretty much the same thing as laminate just thicker/stronger. Mylar would be the expensive route but any 4mil laminate can be used. I have a pressure laminator I buy it by the roll.

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