(Topic ID: 101200)

IJ jackpot mod


By jwo825

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 68 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Ijpinball
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 68 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 5 years ago

Found these game pieces on eBay. They're from the IJ version of the board game Life. Got them for a few bucks shipped. image.jpg

I drilled out the bottom of the grail and stones to be able to fit some LEDs inside. I carefully cut the ark open with a hobby knife and glued the lid on skewed. With the help of pinsiders i was able to make a board and a small test harness to make sure they flashed correctly with the jackpot lights. I had to use what was on hand so as of finishing the prototype last night, I didn't have an led on hand that I could fit under the grail. I just glued it on top to be able to show off the conceptimage-258.jpg

#2 5 years ago

Very cool, where are you mounting them?

#3 5 years ago

That is badass! Nice work dude

#4 5 years ago

Got some styrene strips from a model train store this morning and built thisimage-339.jpg

I had to do some trimming until the board would fit inside just right. I just glued a couple small strips on the inside as rails for the board to sit on. Here is the test fitimage-264.jpg

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Very cool, where are you mounting them?

I'll have to finish building the thing then I'll see where it can fit. Lol

#6 5 years ago

Sweet! that looks cool It belongs in a museum ! lol

#7 5 years ago

really nice work. love the ark.

#8 5 years ago

I got as far as priming the crate today. The humidity is so bad today that the primer is staying sticky. Might have to wait until tomorrow to continue painting. I used a rough grit sandpaper to get the wood grain on the styreneimage-579.jpg

#9 5 years ago

Very creative. Nice! Can't wait to see where they go.

#10 5 years ago

I may try to make a waterslide decal for the crate today. Maybe one to match the Nazi stencil from Raiders

#11 5 years ago

Looking great!

#12 5 years ago

Looks great. The texture is really nice. Would look great with another layer of a slightly lighter brown on top to get a duo faux finish.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Looks great. The texture is really nice. Would look great with another layer of a slightly lighter brown on top to get a duo faux finish.

That's how it will end up. This is just the black primer coat. It will eventually be as good a wood finish as I can manage

-2
#14 5 years ago

A nicer version of each is incorporated Sterns IJ! LOL

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from Banker:

A nicer version of each is incorporated Sterns IJ! LOL

Those are better than the usual cheap looking toys Stern puts into games, but there's no way those would fit into a Williams IJ without covering all the visible playfield. And there's already enough of the IJ playfield hidden.

Plus, isn't it taboo to be putting Stern parts in a B/W game or vice versa?

#16 5 years ago

Nice, I can't wait to see what you do with them.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

That's how it will end up. This is just the black primer coat. It will eventually be as good a wood finish as I can manage

ahh my bad, I read this via my phone and I missed the word primer.

#18 5 years ago

The primer finally dried with a little help from a blow drier!

Here is what it looks like painted. image-802.jpgimage-519.jpgimage-678.jpg

#19 5 years ago

For lack of a better reply, I'll just say wow!

#20 5 years ago

Very nice! Thats some good wood lol

#21 5 years ago

Wow that crate looks superb!

How exactly did you get that finish after starting with a black base?
Might want to try something like this myself,
What products and steps did you take?

#22 5 years ago

I picked a nice medium brown and painted an even coat over the black. Then, I took a light, cream colored brown and dry brushed it over that. Then, I mixed up a wash of dark brown paint. I painted over the whole thing. The wash Israel thin and it settles in the cracks and helps to blend the two browns. Then I did another dry brush with the light brow followed by a wash of a sepia brown. Sepia has a little more red in it and it helped to tint the whole piece with a slight redish hue. It was real dull looking with just the medium and dark brown. I finished with another dry brush of the cream color.

It's all acrylic paint. Dry brushing and washing are easy. You can google and YouTube videos o the technique. We have a lot of hobby shops around Houston and I use Vallejo and Games Workshops paints. Both were made for painting miniatures.

Hope that helps

#23 5 years ago

Lol. Is real thin, not Israel thin! SMDH, autocorrect!

#24 5 years ago

That make a craft paint that is for "antiquing"; actually think it's called that. It gives a old, brown-looking finish that is semi transparent. I have used it for other applications.

I am still excited to see how this piece is used in the game.

#25 5 years ago

And, lastly for tonight. Applied a waterslide decal and sealed the whole thing with a gloss lacquer. I decided to not go with the Nazi stencil because 1) it was too small and 2) not real keen on having a Swastika in my game. As it is, the stencil I did use is tiny. A smaller font would have been nice but then, good luck reading it. Tomorrow I will probably hit it with another coat of gloss to give it a nice protective clearcoat and then, I will hit it with a product called Dulkote that will take it down to a satin finish. image-735.jpgimage-66.jpg

#26 5 years ago

I posted this video in my original thread asking advise on building the board. Since the crate is essentially done, I'll repost the video to help tie in to the work that's coming next. I ordered some SMD LEDs from Comet Pinball to give them a try. Got a yellow one for the grail, amber for the stones and a cyan color for the Ark. Hoping the cyan is a little more on the blue than green side. Regardless, I'm going to go with what I ordered. I'm excited, I just hope the shipping goes quickly after the recent threads regarding bad USPS service. Well, if you didn't see the video already, please enjoy.

Note the grail is just tacked onto a cheap bulb to illustrate placement. When the correct bulb arrives, it will fit into the base and illuminate the dome I glued on top.

#27 5 years ago

Are the lights interactive? I wanted to do some custom lights based on what ball lock you are on. but I dont think I can simply tap into something. How are yours lit to the jackpot? all 3 turn on when jackpot is lit I assume?

#28 5 years ago

The jackpot lights on the playfield light in this order, I believe: ark for jackpot, ark and stones for double jackpot and all 3 for triple jackpot. B/W WPC games have a redundant, empty connector for the switch columns and rows. I just looked up where the Jackpot lamps were plugged in and built a small harness to wire these up on the redundant header to mimic them.

So, long story short, these will exactly mimic what the playfield lights are doing

#29 5 years ago

Very cool, I wanted to light up the 3 in the DMD panel. I know they have boards for this but I have had trouble finding them. But I really just need to mount my own lights behind the panel with your method. If you get a chance, could you take a photo of your connector and where you tapped in so I could add my 3 lights behind the panel?

#30 5 years ago

Sure. You will also have to cut your panel, though. I can't be 100% sure yours isn't already precut! but usually if your game didn't come with the jackpot lights installed! it is later production and the panel wasn't cut either. Ironically, if you look in the manual at the wiring keys in the back, the jackpot lights are still listed as installed on the empty headers

#31 5 years ago

I was hesitant to cut and mount lights in my panel because I want to wait on a color DMD. Those things are huge and I want to be sure both that and the lights fit. If only one fits, I'd rather just have the color DMD

#32 5 years ago

Exceptional! I am speechless!

#33 5 years ago

Thanks Art, I am going to use your bulbs for the mod. I'm sure they will perform exceptionally!

#34 5 years ago

I hope so....If not, I have others....just a thought...a color changing might be interesting, especially the one that fades, then blinks...or if you want the crate to glow....
Sorry to but in with my thoughts...It really looks so damn perfect!

#35 5 years ago

No, don't be sorry. Comments/ideas are appreciated. If I didn't want critique, I'd be keeping it all secret until it was done.

I did think about the color changes but in the end, I think I like them colored this way the best. Bluish for the Ark like the spirits in the first movie, amber for the stones. I know the grail didn't glow, but I think the yellow will give a nice glow effect.

I don't want the bulbs that fade or blink because these things are only lit for a short while during play. I think it'll be a cool mod but the only function it will really serve is a quick reminder of what the jackpot multiplier is up to. Wouldn't want the bulb to be out during the half second you can spare a glance.

Depending on where I end up having to locate the crate, I may need a spotlight, though. I really dig incandescents in the IJ GI, though. The game just looks so nice in that warm glow. I'm sure LEDs will be there soon, but that ambiance isn't quite captured just yet

#36 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

Sure. You will also have to cut your panel, though. I can't be 100% sure yours isn't already precut! but usually if your game didn't come with the jackpot lights installed! it is later production and the panel wasn't cut either. Ironically, if you look in the manual at the wiring keys in the back, the jackpot lights are still listed as installed on the empty headers

My panel has pre-cut holes. I may have to cut the ark hole a bit larger. But I am going to put some vinyl decals behind the panel to block out the light so only the shape of the image lights up. I have to either get the PDF or buy a manual. I dont know whats up with people, almost all my machines never came with manuals.

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

My panel has pre-cut holes. I may have to cut the ark hole a bit larger. But I am going to put some vinyl decals behind the panel to block out the light so only the shape of the image lights up. I have to either get the PDF or buy a manual. I dont know whats up with people, almost all my machines never came with manuals.

I have a spare IJ manual thats in good shape if you want it

PM me

#38 5 years ago

You can also download a free PDF version from IPDB

#39 5 years ago

There is also this item on Pinbits, though its been out of stock for some time now

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_29&products_id=502&zenid=666da78df8024b67b1441307994dea83

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

You can also download a free PDF version from IPDB

Yeah, that's where I normally go. I just use my Surface Pro as the PDF reader so I can have it with me while I attempt to fix something. Would be amazing if it was a text pdf so I could seach the PDF lol.

Yeah I saw that, but if I stick a vinyl decal behind the DMD it will work the same. Since the holes are square. Just got the lost plastic and all my LED's so I will be busy with that for awhile. I have the feeling I have to remove all the raps/parts to get to the back panel for the lost plastic. I wanted to replace the wood with a 1/2 inch sheet of acrylic so the entire back can be illuminated.

#41 5 years ago

dang, I just realized. when I add the colorDMD to IJ. We wont have room for lights behind the panel. Maybe LED strips... May be the only option.

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

dang, I just realized. when I add the colorDMD to IJ. We wont have room for lights behind the panel. Maybe LED strips... May be the only option.

That's what I was afraid of and the reason I decided to build my mod.

I suspected that would be the case when I was cutting a larger speaker hole in the right side of my panel. I remember looking and thinking, there's no way a dmd and the jackpot mod woll fot there without some more modification.

My Indy is down waiting on wireforms to be replated anyway. My mod is the product of boredom, lol.

#43 5 years ago

You could still do it. You would put LED strips in the well of the panel the 3-7 strips from cometpinball. The strip is thinner than the thickness of the wood. Question is, would diodes even be necessary with the led strips?

ijschema.jpg

#44 5 years ago

Make sure you double check the wiring diagram and then the actual connectors carefully I believe that at least the J133,134,135 portion is wrong.

If I remember correctly, the real positions are as follows:
Grail - 2
Stone - 7
Ark - 9

The manual is wrong as well, it has the grain on pin one

I was wrong, in the book, the J137, 138 header is labeled wrong. The diagram you posted is correce at J137/138 and wrong at J133/134/135

#45 5 years ago

Some photos I found. This match up?

i1.jpgi2.jpg

#46 5 years ago

Or be lazy and just buy the damn board lol. this looks plenty narrow enough to fit under the color DMD. Looks like it just uses little diode led's eew...

detail.jpg

#47 5 years ago

The pins are numbered right to left. 1 - 9. That top photo is correct. position wise anyway

The far right connector is J137, that's the switch column header. The red wire is in position 2 and is the positive wire to the grail and stones. You can verify this because they're both in row 2. the black wire is in position 4 and is the positive wire to the ark, this is verified by it being in the 4th column of the matrix.

The left connector is J133, the row header of the switch matrix. That wire in position 2 is correct but for some reason is mislabeled in the manual. That's coming from the Ark. This is easily checked because it's in row 2 of the matrix.

The other wired are in position 7 and 9. They are really for rows 6 and 8, but there is a key, or unused pin at position 3. This shifts rows 3-8 over one pin.

See, WPC is simple

#48 5 years ago

I must be tired this afternoon. That is the lamp matrix, not the switch matrix. Please excuse the confusion

#49 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

I must be tired this afternoon. That is the lamp matrix, not the switch matrix. Please excuse the confusion

lol its all good. I will just go with the board. That way I dont have to mess around with trying to get led-strips to fit. Looks low profile enough.

#50 5 years ago

Got my bulbs in today and they look great. Did a test fit but I think I may have to rethink the grail lamp. It's just not getting enough light up top.

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