Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993Just wondering where I should start.... When I lock a ball, occasionally, it will search for a missing ball. It will take roughly two tries and then spit a ball out of the idol.
And on occasion, it will spit a random ball out as if it's multiball, but should still be a single ball mode.
Oh, and the mini PF doesn't tilt all the way to the right so if I tilt it to the right, the ball will go down the first hole. Going left is fine. Idol and mini PF tests check out ok.
First problem sounds like an issue with the ball trough. Check for bad optos or cracked solder joints - the trough takes a beating.
Second problem, again may be problems with the optos on the mini playfield that tell it where 'home' position is. Try cleaning them and make sure nothing is obstructing the playfield movement.
Great game - gotta get it working right!!!
If I am not mistaken, there are only two positions used on that connector.......the ones on each end.
Pop the little plastic cap off the right side (in your photo), reinsert the wires, black on one side, grey on the other, and then pop the cap back on.
These are IDC connectors, Insulation Displacement Connectors. Meaning, the outer plastic insulation is cut by a U-shapped connector inside the housing.
Quoted from Wolfanoz:Train, thanks. Do I have to have each end meet in the middle or can I reinsert the wires on top of each other (still having contact)?
It really doesn't matter as long as you have black & black, grey & grey. Also, the metal U-shaped (maybe it's more of a V) has to cut through the outer plastic insulation and make contact with the copper wire, on both wires.
You won't be able to reliably punch two wires into the IDC connector.
Pull "both" black wires. Strip both ends. Put your shrink tubing on. Join the ends of the wire by twisting them together like a pretzel. Solder the wires together. Shrink the tubing to insulate.
Now...you're ready to repunch the joined wire into the proper position in the connector.
This is the standard repair procedure.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to g for Pinball Repair Info
How do you "punch" the wires in?
I bought an IDC connector tool from PBL for 22 gauge wire and it is terrible. I used a small flat screwdriver, but my problem (on another game) didn't go away?? Is there a way to "test" the wires to make sure you have a reliable connection? (Besides the game working or not as this may not be your problem)??
Quoted from ChrisHibler:You won't be able to reliably punch two wires into the IDC connector.
Pull "both" black wires. Strip both ends. Put your shrink tubing on. Join the ends of the wire by twisting them together like a pretzel. Solder the wires together. Shrink the tubing to insulate.
Now...you're ready to repunch the joined wire into the proper position in the connector.
This is the standard repair procedure.
True, I forgot those connectors are really small, not the .156" ones.
If you have a Radio Shack locally, they used to carry heat shrink tubing.
If you can't find it and you have a Home Depot, Lowes or good hardware store, look for liquid electrical tape. You brush it on your bare copper wire, after you solder them together.
Thanks guys. You're a great help to a noob on the repair front as always. Going to look for the stuff tomorrow to get this done. Should I look for new IDCs at Radio Shack as well that are five pin just in case the connection doesn't happen with the existing one?
Great Plains Electronics is a good online source for ICs. I'm sure the Pinside community can tell you many others. I'd rate the chance of Radio Shack having anything a pinball machine needs besides fuses as slim. Heck, my local ones don't even have all the correct fuses for one WPC machine.
An Electronics parts store would be a better choice if you have one. Preferably an old school one and not a chain store
Ace Electronics and Fry's Electronics stores are pretty big in Houston.
Hopefully there is one near you.
Radio Shack does carry some transistors.
Radio shack used to sell a 'variety pack' of shrink tubing - had multiple diameters in the package. You can buy packs at most hardware stores, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Needs to be large enough diameter to fit over the soldered area of the wires....
Quoted from Wolfanoz:What size heat shrink should I be looking for for that wiring?
Be sure that whatever package you select includes 1/8" diameter tubing.
I prefer the more common black tubing. I bought some colored tubing from the RatShack a while back, which was terrible as it doesn't shrink much. And, while clear tubing might seem like a good idea, heating clear tubing with a match or lighter turns it a bit charcoal... 
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from Wolfanoz:Should I look for new IDCs at Radio Shack
Nope...They won't have them.
www.greatplainselectronics.com ... learn it ... love it.
Ed has the female housings, crimp on pins, and crimp tools.
Crimp on is the way to go if you can. While not mandatory, your results will be improved. IDC connections are for speed of manufacturing vice reliability.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Chris, thats where I ordered everything from earlier. ESP! 
So I'll have extras just in case.
I got the connector back in business. Seems like the trough is getting power. No issues with an extra ball being kicked out now after cleaning the optos on the trough boards. Have extra boards coming just in case.
Only thing that remains is the mini PF doesn't go fully right (left is ok, ball weight makes it lean a bit more to the left). And when a second ball locks, it searches for a missing ball when there isn't one (dirty Idol opto maybe?)
The mini playfield is a bit of a nuisance to adjust. There is one small set screw on the back side that locks it onto the motor shaft. Loosen that, tilt it right just a bit and then re tighten. That's all there is to it, though it may take a little time and a few tries to get it just right. It only took me 2 tries to get it correct. Don't go too far to the right, though or you will end up with the same original problem, just on the left side
Did you check to see if the POA was hitting anything, when it tilts to the right?
There is a plastic on the left ramp, that many owners find has to be moved back, so the POA can fully tilt to the right. However, it might be that your POA is not level, to start with. If that's the case, follow jwo825's suggestion.
No switch activity in the mid top right switch diode on the mini PF, two wires came off when I turned it around to look. Were loose. One is chained to a switch across from it which flakes out when tested (like registers two other switches) when there isn't a stable connection for that wire. Was on the very last leg of the switch facing me with the PF turned over.
Don't see any holes to wire through with the switch contact (like a coil lug), does the wire wrap around the contact for soldering? Can I use any three of the legs for that or do I have to resolder the same two wires to the same leg?
Fixed one issue, dealing with another. Life in pinball.
Anyway, solved the issue. Twisted the two wires together and soldered it to the leg of the switch. Pushed the wire under the others a bit as the playfield would twist and register the switch being used at that location which wasnt happening. Everything plays great after two days of fixville.
Thanks guys!
Oh I know it won't be. I have two other games that will also need a fixing but that mini playfield is nothing to fool with. It's dangerous in and of itself.... path of adventure indeed.
Oh btw....anyone have any tips to keep the ball from bouncing back out of the mode hole? I've adjusted it and it doesnt matter, still bounces back out if it smacks it at a decent speed?
Quoted from Wolfanoz:Oh btw....anyone have any tips to keep the ball from bouncing back out of the mode hole? I've adjusted it and it doesnt matter, still bounces back out if it smacks it at a decent speed?
It's been years, but I seem to remember bending the bracket slightly forward.
Here's an entire thread about possible adjustments.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wms-indiana-jones-mode-start-hole-adjustment
Quoted from TrainH2o:It's been years, but I seem to remember bending the bracket slightly forward.
Here's an entire thread about possible adjustments.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wms-indiana-jones-mode-start-hole-adjustment
That's a great thread. I made sure mine was screwed down snugly, then grabbed it with a crescent wrench and bent it slightly down. It has made the difference between sticking the shot 55% of the time and 90%
I have seen people drill a hole in it and put one of the grommets from a coil bracket in there. That also works well
I added this to the PinWiki tonight. I had a similar issue with a DE ST that was in for repair.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_Wiring_Damaged_by_IDC_Connectors
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Chris Hibler- CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.nt/chiblerPinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWik.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Looks like you can add a washer or two, where the saucer mounts under the playfield. It effectively lowers the saucer making it stick better. It's the hard to beat gravity theory, I suppose.
I may try lowering mine, as repeated hits to that bracket, will eventually bend it back where it was.
Chris, your step by step method with the heat shrink and all went flawless. Had to redo it once as it was kind of flaky when I did a sensor test. Connection was wonky and it would sound like someone was going up and down a piano in the test / switch edges menu with the trough due to the power flickering.
I'm glad you got 'er goin'..
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Hi Chris,
For repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch" I use the small solder wick.
This fits easily in the holes of the snap cap. It is also easy to solder it the trace on the top side of the board under the new cap after feeding it through the hole.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Hi Chris,
For repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch" I use the small solder wick.
This fits easily in the holes of the snap cap. It is also easy to solder it the trace on the top side of the board under the new cap after feeding it through the hole.
I've never used solder wick for a stitch. It's a good idea. But I'm cheap, and have plenty of wire scrapes laying around. I do use solder wick to replace big traces damaged by corrosion on Bally and Stern MPUs.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Anyone know about the optos entering the Lite Jackpot ramp?
It's not saying anythings wrong when the game does a test (or anything for that matter) but when I put it in test mode (switch edge) and try to put my finger between them, nothing registers? Right ramp registers fine.
They should register.
Test them...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Testing
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Yep, tests fine on the receiving end. Transmitter must be shot.
*Update* IT'S ALLLIIVEEEEE!!!! I took all the plastics off and gave it a wiggle, was really tight against it and looks like it needs a bit of solder on the left. It registered when I shook the wire and then put by finger between the two on the ramp.2014-08-28 21.14.37.jpg
Yay!
I think you nailed it. That opto has had some prior work.
You can fix it for good now.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Yeah, it seems if that plastic there gets really snug against that, it activates the connection. Even after a reflow.
Anything to remedy that?
It may be that the plastic is moving the opto, and changing it's "aim".
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
You may have to shave the plastic slightly...
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Chris Hbler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EMcom
http://webpages.charter.net/cibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWik.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:You may have to shave the plastic slightly...
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Chris Hbler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EMcom
http://webpages.charter.net/cibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWik.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Yep, half a hair off with the ole skeletool and its fine. All is well...for now. Thanks again. Off to run from some boulders and shoot some guy wielding a machete.
Quoted from Wolfanoz:Yep, half a hair off with the ole skeletool and its fine. All is well...for now. Thanks again. Off to run from some boulders and shoot some guy wielding a machete.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
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Calhoun, GA
Essex, ON