(Topic ID: 20131)

IJ '93 High Voltage Problem

By IndianaPwns

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by dlbuller
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

Turned on my IJ this morning and was met with disappointment.

None of the solenoids were firing. No ball launch. No ball popper. No drop targets...etc.

"Narrowed" it down to all the high voltage items. I reseated the connectors: nothing. Checked for popped fuses: nothing.

What's the next step?

A pinball friend of mine said it's probably the 50v (Bridge Rectifer & Cap)...but I don't quite know what this means...errrr!

Thanks for the help!

#2 11 years ago

How did you check the fuses? Dmm with fuses pulled?

#3 11 years ago

Oh, none of them had popped on any of the boards...is that the right way?

#4 11 years ago

Quite often you can't see a bad fuse. If they were not checked with a DMM, they were not checked. Do you have a meter?

#5 11 years ago

Yeah, sounds like a fuse. Pull a side out and measure the solenoid ones.

#6 11 years ago

Negative on the meter. What do I need to buy/do?

#7 11 years ago

Go to sears or radioshack, get a cheap meter. Pop out the fuses in question, set dmm to Ohms. If its open, its blown.

#8 11 years ago

I completely lack the knowledge when it comes to any of this. When you say open...you mean no power right?

Are high voltage fuses located in the backbox or the little fusebox on the bottom of the cabinet?

#9 11 years ago

np, when I say open I actually mean an incomplete electrical circuit where no current flows....yes this will cause no power. A blown fuse will cause a break or an open in the circuit. To make it easier, most multimeters will have a "beep" function associated with the OHM test.

Buy the meter and set it to OHM or beep test. Before you do anything touch the probes together....they will beep as it completes the circuit. Now put both probes on both sides of the fuse....if it beeps, good fuse, if not, bad one.

Not about where those fuses are. You would have to look at the manual. Can anybody else help him with the location of the fuses he is looking for?

#10 11 years ago

F112 first ( 7amp slow blow ), then F103, F104, F105.( all 3amp slow blow )

Dig around on YouTube or Google on how to use a meter.

Until you get a meter, can you make a simple electric circuit ? A light bulb, two wires and a battery ? Using the bulb, battery and wires make the bulb light. Now use the fuse in there somewhere to make a circuit. If light bulb lights the fuse is good, if not you found the bad fuse.

LTG

#11 11 years ago

blown fuse

#12 11 years ago

Actually take the fuse out and look at it. Don't fall for the ol "Fuse looks good from here" leaading to the "whoops guys it was the fuse the whole time like you told me."

#13 11 years ago

Seems like the fuses are ok.

Possible dead 50v?

I've looked through the manual - can't find where it's located/what I need to check for a dead 50v

#14 11 years ago

shameless selfbump in hopes of saving money

#15 11 years ago

did you take the fuses out of their holders and check with a multimeter?
did you replace the fuse/s in question anyway and see what happens?

#16 11 years ago

Listen to LTG. More than likely fuse F112 (7A slow blow). Sometimes fuses "look" fine. Invest in a DMM. Just get a cheap one. Worth every penny. This should be a cheap and easy fix.

1 week later
#17 11 years ago

Have you solved your problem? Its helpful to others who might research their own problems in the future if you post your solution instead of leaving the thread 'open-ended' ... even if you are embarrassed because it was something 'simple' <--- I've had this happen many times.

#18 11 years ago

Man this happening to a super restored top end IJ?

1 week later
#19 11 years ago

Fixed and back in order! Turned out to be a old and defective BR3. 50v boys - you got it.

Big thanks to Jack again for saving my @$$. Indy is back!

#20 11 years ago

Wooohoooo! I bet youre happy now!

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