(Topic ID: 28201)

If your TOM trunk is acting up clean the gear box....junk in the trunk

By cal50

11 years ago


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#60 8 years ago

Thanks to CAL 50 for this outstanding post I was able to fix my trunk too. Was very loose and not aligned properly anymore. Found the issue was due to one of the set screws inside the gearbox was not tight. Thought I'd share a few more pics for those folks that maybe did not take enough during the dis-assembly process.

Also, note the pic of the 3/4" wrench removing the top 2 trunk frame nuts. It was easy when I used a box end/open end wrench, then added some torque to remove by inserting a screwdriver shaft and twisting. You'll need to hold the trunk frame at the same time or it will simply spin the gears on the motor (probably not good for it).

Wrote an "F" (see pic) with a sharpie on the "Face" or "Home" part of the the trunk frame that faces the player to make certain I re-installed it that way - it helped (my memory is short)

I added my aluminum opto interrupter (bought it ages ago) and alignment was fairly straightforward and for me was driven entirely by getting the 2 nuts on top on with the trunk facing the way I had it when I removed it (home position). Then turning the opto interrupter either left or right, temporarily tightening the set screw, then running the trunk test to let it "settle". The slot in the opto interrupter will tell the motor to stop turning when it lines up with a set of optos. In my case, the opto board needed the interrupter slot to be positioned at the top (top opto, facing the flippers) in order to have the trunk in the "home" position.

Don't forget that there are 3 large washers in total at the top of the shaft (2 underneath the "top of the playfield trunk bracket" and one underneath the 2 large 3/4" trunk bracket nuts to go between the nuts and the bracket itself)

Wish I could remember which way turning the interrupter impacted which direction the trunk then "moved" but you'll see it as soon as you try it and I did not have to move it much (3/8" maybe). What you're doing is moving the "slot" on the interrupter that then allows the shaft to rotate to a new position. In other words, you're not "moving" anything when you adjust the orientation of the trunk, your just setting the opto slot to a spot that delivers an optimum trunk alignment (hope that made sense)

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#62 8 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

Great pics, thnx for sharing. Can i ask if you can post a closeup showing the bulb socket inside the trunk? I'm having problems wiring it up correctly (is there a diode?) and it keeps messing with the lamp matrix.
Sorry for derailing the thread but it's still part of the trunk
Thanks a lot!
Cheers

I'll shoot a pic tonight. Yes, there is a diode

#64 8 years ago

It has a 1N4004 diode on one leg (the red wire) of the lamp. That diode is then protected by standard issue plastic tubing to prevent shorting inside the trunk. Not a word about the wire nuts from anyone ... I've got proper connectors on the way 20150914_200139.jpg20150914_200139.jpg20150914_200153.jpg20150914_200153.jpg20150914_200215.jpg20150914_200215.jpg

#67 8 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

It has a 1N4004 diode on one leg (the red wire) of the lamp. That diode is then protected by standard issue plastic tubing to prevent shorting inside the trunk. Not a word about the wire nuts from anyone ... I've got proper connectors on the way :naughty:20150914_200139.jpg 20150914_200153.jpg 20150914_200215.jpg

Fixed the wire nuts. In case you want to do the same and put a proper connector on there the Marco parts are as follows:

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You'll need to add some male .062 connectors too (I had some already). The Marco number is:
Crimp terminal .062 inch Male round #CT062M

If you don't have one, it's time to get the proper tool to remove the wires/pins from the white plastic housing

Marco has them: EXTRACTOR TOOL 0.62 INCH #77-PET62

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