You’re looking for an outlier price on an outlier item. It’s whatever the buyer is willing to pay.

Depends on if its a grail game. I am overpaying for a game i love because it is in fantastic shape. I wouldnt pay this much if it wasnt a grail for me

I’d say peak end of pinside range + 15%

Nothing. I avoid sellers who classify their items as mint.

depends on the game but with the general nature of pinball nothing is "mint" unless its brand new.

If its an older game in great original shape that is worth something but calling it mint would be a stretch.

Not sure
I have a Getaway with no cabinet fade and all the serial numbers match, but i would not call it mint. Just means i would not settle for a low-ball offer

Mint is too subjective, because for every "MINT" machine out there, unless it went through a HEP restore, I am willing to bet there is something "NOT" mint about it in some way to someone. Even NIB doesnt mean MINT because so many NIB machines have minor flaws or blemishes that are "part of pinball"

I am never moved by the condition of a machine. I am moved by the condition of the machine for the price asked. I don't pay any premiums for MODS or addons except maybe a colorDMD, and the number of plays and the HUO documentation is worthless in my book. Show me a machine, quote me a price. If I like what I see for the cost, I'll lay the cash on the glass.

I follow Darkwings philosophy.
I’ve been collecting for a while. If it’s the 1% of the 1% of something I am actively looking for I will pay what I think is the right price

Depends if they are still making them. Mint is NIB.

Helps if you give a title as an example. Is it a mint thunderbirds or a mint classic title? Makes all the difference.

Once the word MINT is used to describe a game, I’m out.

What about "minty"? I think the extra y adds at least 2%.

I wouldn't pay a premium. Either celebrate good fortune or walk away.

The answers here seam really odd, except those that say I pay what I feel what is worth to me (that makes sense). Based on other responses it sounds like having a game with no blemishes and working 100% with no hacks is not worth more than a "player's" game? That's the answers I'm seeing.

People seem to take issue with the word mint. His first post doesn't say the seller even used that word. That is his diacription, so a very nice game is definately worth more.

Mint means absolutely nothing.

Brand new games are scuffed and dinged from the factory.

They are not Chris Hutchins, nor do they care to be.

NIB, however means a lot.

You lose a lot by cutting the straps.

Beware sellers who "opened the box" just for pictures.

They are lying.

I generally don't buy games described as "mint". They are usually overpriced, especially if you have the opportunity to wait for a really nice survivor example. I prefer nice classic machines that have a history to them. Of course, if you're talking about modern day machines, then the same thing applies.

Why pay a premium for a mint example of modern titles when you can generally be patient and wait for a really nice one at lesser cost?

I will pay a lot more for a game that is mint / HUO.
But a lot of sellers will use these descriptions when they do not apply.

Roughly 3.14159% if we are not using round numbers.

OP says finds a game in "mint" condition, which I read as he believes it's mint or unblemished; not a seller has "mint" in an ad. I would never use that word myself because as a kid I collected baseball cards and old coins, and "mint" really meant something. I still don't use baseball grade terms when selling anything because I don't want to be that technical.

Maybe OP is fishing to price a game to sell he owns and is wanting to use the word "mint". The common advice here is don't use the term.

"Mint" for a modern game doesn't really mean anything since there are plenty of similar examples. But a true mint, outstanding, collector-quality or whatever you want to call it example of a classic title is worth a major premium just like any other rare collectible. Personally, I'd much rather have a near perfect, unrestored example of a classic game than a high end restoration.

This must be why I didn't get the other responses. I like older titles and mint would be rare and worth a good bit more.

I think what the OP is trying to say is- if YOU find a pin and YOU determine it is “mint” or whatever word you use to describe a pin that is the best it can be.
In this situation, what would you pay above the average price? I think it would be easy to pay 25% more.

If it is a newer game, used but in excellent condition, it will still be worth less than a NIB. The only exception being valuable mods like color DMD, well done powder coating, PDI or invisi glass, etc. And those only add what they cost.

If it is an older game and in "like new" condition with desirable mods, I think it is worth what a similarly good new game in similar condition is worth. So a Twilight Zone in excellent condition with remote battery, LEDs, and color DMD is worth slightly less than a NIB JJPOTC.

It seems highly likely that the OP is asking because he is considering selling a game he considers to be "mint". It would help us help you if you told us more about the game you are selling.

The older a game is, the more rare a game is, and the availability of game-specific parts all affect this. A "mint" Williams Warlok is likely worth 3x what a worn playfield example is worth (due to age, rarity, and unavailable playfield to cite one example). A "mint" Dialed In or Munsters is just marketing fluff as most newer games are basically "mint" still.

TZ and IJ IPA have higher value than STTNG. So that explanation is not foolproof. Maybe STTNG is less based on theme, or difficulty of keeping the game up mechanically/electronically. Not sure exactly why but that's the case with STTNG vs those other 1993 wide bodies.

People don't pay a premium for mint on Pinside but they pay for it being "loaded". There could be a game with a shooter lane that looks like a butthole but if it has a lot of mods people will praise it.

Why do OP's tend to ask questions like this and don't comment back? I agree, with TRAMD that it makes a diffrence if new vs old. You would excpect a new game to be near mint and if not, deduct accordingly. Older games that are mint can bring a premium because they are harder to find in that condition.