(Topic ID: 2304)

identifying a component

By ruairidh

13 years ago


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  • 18 posts
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  • Latest reply 13 years ago by ruairidh
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#1 13 years ago

I just bought a Williams 1975 Triple Strike machine that is (so it seems) in fairly decent working order. There is something wrong with it and we're trying to troubleshoot it out. One of the pieces that is giving us problems is currently unidentified to us. I think it might be the match knocker, but I don't really know.

In the first pic you can see the whole of the back box of the game itself. The component is the one in the upper left hand corner. Second pic is a close up. Third the view from the right.

What is happening when I hit start is the score motor engages and starts the reset mode, but it doesn't finish. All the drops and score wheels reset, but the motor keeps churning while the unknown component keeps knocking. Also, the credit wheel isn't registering right and reads the 12 credit marker as "zero", 13 as 1, so on (which I can only get to engage at this point by manually turning the wheel. And the final thing is that the ball is not getting kicked into the plunger.

I don't know if any of that helps or not in identifying that piece, but any help would be really appreciated. I've never owned an EM machine before and I'm quite excited about the project.

Thanks.

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#2 13 years ago

A friend of mine had a similar issue - ended up being a coin stuck in the coin door. If a switch is stuck on it may just keep spinning like that. Im sure others will chime in here to help

#3 13 years ago

I'm by far no EM guy. However, I bought 3 Bingo machines to cut my teeth into the EM world.. First thing I learned is switch cleaning, switch cleaning, switch cleaning... After a lot of tail chasing on the first machine I figured out most of my issues were dirty switches. I simply decided the easiest way to troubleshoot is clean all the switches before even attempting to troubleshoot.

First machine took me 4 days to get running.... The next two machines were simply cleaning all the switches before thinking about powering them on.. After doing this, both machines fired up with relative ease...

I used a business card and fine grit sandpaper and slid it between the contacts to clean them....

#4 13 years ago

I think that unit is a match unit, if you move the pin connector that is right of it to 'on' and manually engage it (continuous stepper type unit) you should see the #s move around in the backglass - you may have to use a mirror or catch a reflection off a window to see of course the lamps have to work etc.

It's also quite common to find the credit unit on a Wms. pin 180* off,
some knuckle head may of turned the wheel out of phase in hopes of 'free play' thats why its making noise - you may have to remove the unit and go through it.
not a big deal just takes time.

Also bridge out the SW. that makes contact (closes) at 1 or more credits that will get you into free play (look for the middle of the 3 SWs but may be different) also the max credit SW will open after 37 credits that is what should stop the credit unit from attempting to step up.

#5 13 years ago

Thats a cool looking game - had a chance to buy one once .
A lot of those single player Williams pins are still under the radar and you can find them now and then for cheap.
Once you go through it and get it set up and running I bet it will last for years before the next overhaul thats how my Big Ben turned out - cant kill those 1 player pins.

*I remember now that you got the 3 bingo games -must be like night n day between a triple strike and a bingo machine?
-good luck with it

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1 week later
#6 13 years ago

Thanks for the input. Autumn you are correct in that it is the score knocker.

I'm the first to admit it, and that's I don't know what I'm doing with this EM machine, so I'm taking it slow. I've been reading through the pinrepair and starting at step one, while reading textbooks along side the machine. I've also been trying to track someone down in my area that knows about EM coin operated devices to give me a crash course, but to no avail. I'm in Santa Fe NM which is not a major city, but there is a nuclear lab nearby... Any suggestions on avenues which could be pursued to find someone with this kind of knowledge? I've been calling electricians, antique shops, community colleges, tried CL, appliance repairmen, etc.

So far, I've checked the solenoids and coils, looked at all the of the switch leaves, tested amps and replaced lamps. I'm about to go through and polish all the contacts and de gunk what needs it before I start pulling the SW, stepper units, etc off. Any other suggestions on things to look at before I start dissembling to clean?

"Also bridge out the SW. that makes contact (closes) at 1 or more credits that will get you into free play (look for the middle of the 3 SWs but may be different) also the max credit SW will open after 37 credits that is what should stop the credit unit from attempting to step up. " Autumn, could you explain that a little bit more? I'm not sure I understand.

I have some other questions, but I've lost the two posts before this one due to browser issues, so they will wait. I also would love to give a break down of what is going on with this pin to see if any of you might have other help or insight I might be able to glean. Attached are a couple of pics of the machine in the state I got it in. Not bad for $120 with delivery. I was really shocked when I opened it. These pictures are pre-vacuum...

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#7 13 years ago

and 2

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#8 13 years ago

When I look at those pictures it takes me back to when I first looked inside my broken Meteor and thought "How the heck am I going to figure this out?"

#9 13 years ago

First off ruairidh thank you for posting some excellent photos - I wish more people would take the time and do the same. It makes things a lot easier into what someone is trying to explain or get across to the rest of us.

Check the score motor at "Impulse 5E" looks like 2 or more SWs are out of alignment.

Wms. S.M. are set up like this -
Left to Right Index,1,2,2L (Long Duration)3,4,5,Impulse 5E, Impulse S.W. Forward
what I usually end up doing with my paint pen is marking the top of the SWs
-IX, 1, 2, 2L, 3, 4, 5, 5E, IP faster when tracing a line of the schematic

Remember the biggest thing in adjusting the SWs is the gap too much is just as bad as too little and everyone has there own 'feel' about this.
One thing you cant do is use a pair of needle nose pliers - you have to get the right tool or make your own it's very easy to do.

Remember it takes time, may take you 2 months to sort it all out but in the end you will learn more then anyone cant teach you. I started out 11-12 years ago on a GTB. Soccer
without internet,books, finally got it going but it drove me crazy I swore I'd never work on an EM again . Now thats all I do

#10 13 years ago

Much thanks. I knew that I could probably find the help I need online, but didn't think I would find anyone that was willing to offer advice so freely. Pictures really make asking for help lots easier

I was going to ask if there is a "standard" measurement for the of the tabs in between the leaves on the SM, as there are 4 different "sizes" pictured on the schematic but no numbers. I was also trying to think of a type of plastic I could buy and cut replacements out of as there are a couple others through the machine which are cracked. Thoughts?

Now I'm off to look at a Jive time. There are a ton of EM machines in my area that don't work which people want to sell, so I'm pushing myself hard on this..

#11 13 years ago

Playmatic EMs are a lot like Wms. but everything is in plastic,
so yeah you can make them in plastic or just buy extra ammo when ever you place an order. I usually pick up extra contact points , SW spacers, etc in every order because I know I'll eventually need them and it looks more pro.

You should see a pattern on a NC & a NC switch on a Score Motor - how many spacers used on the other stack next to it may help a bit. getting it wrong will haunt you in the end it's -either open or closed -never always open or always closed,
- just something to keep in mind

#12 13 years ago

Just wondering, is there a "best place" to buy EM parts? i.e. is there a store which specializes in them?

#13 13 years ago

I Feel PBR has the best selection when it comes to EMs Sealclubber,
most other supply shops I've looked into are more about SS pins

#14 13 years ago

If the score motor runs continuously - and all of your score reels, etc. are resetting - it's most likely a dirty switch on the stack like AF said. If you watch it in action, it's probably one of the switches that is making a large spark (fairly normal behavior), i.e. the home switch.

#15 13 years ago

Yes thats right,
usually a big blue spark can lead you to SW that needs adjusting - good call examiner
you can turn off the lights some times and go through the start sequence searching (in the dark) for 'big blue' -getting lucky at times.

#16 13 years ago

aha! I was just reading about the big blue spark on pinrepair. I really wish at some point in time I can meet the man who put that thing together, just to say thanks, because it is a goldmine of information. I did notice a BBS on the index wheel, I think it was the top most switch.

Here is the issue so far as I see it. First, the coin toggle doesn't active the credit relay, although it fires the $.25 relay as the connectors say it should. Other than that the game starts, goes through the reset mode (SW at 00000, credit drops, flags reset, bonus, ect) but the ball doesn't get kicked into the plunger. Then the motor continues to go, firing the outhole relay (which is supposed to activate the eject relay) and the credit knocker continues to sound on the home position of the score motor and repeat. As far as I can tell, other than that, the game operates like it should with the targets resetting and everything scoring correctly, flippers function, and when the ball drains the trip for the "end of ball" sequence isn't fired. I'm assuming the end of ball switch and the eject relay are tied together somehow, but I've not found it yet on the schematic.

Examiner said the phrase "dirty switch on the stack." Thank you for bringing that up as I hadn't thought about looking at it in that way yet and it brought up a couple of good questions for me. My thought process tells me that if the final switch on the stack isn't activated, that the process which initiated the stack will try to repeat activating the stack until the action is carried out. Follow? Is that right? So if the SW is trying to activate A, B, and C and any one of those (B) isn't working properly, it will continue to try to finish the sequencing of B while still activating A and C because they are on the same wheel?

#17 13 years ago

With the knocker firing I would point to the credit unit SW s or match/end of game
look at your manual for the wire discriptions-codes .

Also since your game has a bonus unit under the PF make sure that is also up to snuff.
on a Wms. the bonus will step back to zero then step up to the 1st rivet .
if one of the SWs are out it will never step up and turn off .
the bonus has to count down and step up 1 before the ball is ejected into the shooter lane.
- check the SWs on the bonus unit & the 2 coils manually make sure they work smoothly

*Does your game still have the original bridge rectifier ?

#18 13 years ago

Autumnfade. Dude, you are the shit. Thanks! it was the top contact leaf on the 5E. I can't believe it was that simple. Now it's detailing time!

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