I need a 12,11,and 7 pin IDC connector that accepts 18 gauge wire. Where can I find these?
Pinballlife.com
18 gauge will still work even though they say 22 gauge. Just make sure the wire is firmly pushed into the connector and test each for continuity. Also, if they dont have the exact number of pins you are looking for buy a slightly bigger one and then just insert accordingly or trim the extra pins off with a utility knife. Make sure you fully understand the pitch you need, they vary between 0.100 and 0.156 or something close (dont remember off the top of ny head). Usually the larger gauge wire goes into connectors with the larger pitch.
Grrrrr... I wish I had asked this question yesterday before I just placed the order with pinball life this morning. Thanks for the info!
Bad advice: the 22-gauge connectors will NOT work properly with 18-gauge wire. The wrong gauge wire will not seat properly in the slot and either cause strands to break off when punching down the wire (gauge too large) or will not achieve a solid connection (gauge too small).
www.onlinecomponents.com seems to stock a pretty good selection of Pancon IDCs, but they do have a $50 minimum order. For 18-gauge wire applications search for CE{p}F18-{n} for "end" connectors (wire ends at the connector), or CT{p}F18-{n} for "through" connectors (wire continues through the slot in the connector); {p} is the pitch (100 for 0.100", 156 for 0.156"), and {n} is the number of positions. e.g., CE156F18-7 for a 0.156" pitch end connector that accepts 18-gauge wire and has 7 positions.
You should also get one of the Pancon manual insertion tools; Terry sells the MMIT-100F and MMIT-156F for about $10 cheaper than www.onlinecomponents.com.
Ok, repair police. I agree, you're best off using connectors sized properly for the wire gauge, but these still work just fine if you're in a pinch.
Lol...thanks for the info guys. So it looks like buy the cheaper 22 awg connectors or drop a ton of cash on 18 gauge...
Quoted from crujones4life:Lol...thanks for the info guys. So it looks like buy the cheaper 22 awg connectors or drop a ton of cash on 18 gauge...
Just make sure they are well seated and test for continuity on each pin. As jad mentioned often you'll see some strands get cut if the wire gauge is too big - make sure those strands (if any) are cleaned away. You dont want metal wire bits with no insulation floating around in your pins.
For WPC 89 MPU and power driver board. I didn't consider switching to molex. Never done that and don't have the proper tools. I just need to replace a couple connectors with alkaline damage and a couple that are crispy.
Molex replacement is a permanent fix and not a band aide solution that someone else will have to fix later.
Quoted from Madmax541:Molex replacement is a permanent fix and not a band aide solution that someone else will have to fix later.
Considering pinballs have shipped from the factory for decades using IDC connectors I don't really see using IDC connectors as a "band-aide." To each their own I guess.
10th the Molex solution. The parts are cheap and easily obtained. The pins are also extremely cheap. There is a nice pictorial on how to crimp the trifurcon pins. The crimper is not that an expensive tool and I've used mine hundreds of times. It's a quick job, clean, and will outlast you.
Quoted from T-800:Considering pinballs have shipped from the factory for decades using IDC connectors I don't really see using IDC connectors as a "band-aide." To each their own I guess.
And Williams 40 pin connectors are awesome too. Ha ha
Switch to Molex - it's the right thing to do and the crimper is a pretty cheap investment.
Replacing with a (wrong sized!) IDC won't last. The first one failed and burned up because of heat, using the wrong size IDC and slicing through strands is just going to create more heat and a bad situation.
IDC are crap for high vibration locations like pins.
When the OEM would install them, they figured the game had a 3 year working lifespan - then on to the dump.
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If you are going to own pins, you just have to buck up and get the $22 ratcheting crimper tool (it does both crimps in a single stroke).
It's super fast and the crimps are permanent.
Quoted from Madmax541:Molex replacement is a permanent fix and not a band aide solution that someone else will have to fix later.
Sometimes you don't have time. I use IDCs once in a while on non high voltage connections.
Thanks for all the info guys. IDCs are in the mail...lol. Terry hadn't shipped my order so I added them. My pins are on for 20 to 60 minutes at a time a couple times a month. I think it will be fine.
Quoted from Travish:And Williams 40 pin connectors are awesome too. Ha ha
And what do you replace the 40-pin connector with?
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