did you pull the interlock switch out before testing for it to fire? (i think sega has one)
In switch test, does that switch register by hand?

Still would like to know if the switch itself registers,
I would track down the row that coil is on, check its fuse and I would test the transistor that drives it on the driver board, which is easy enough to do.

It's hard to tell by the picture, but are the lugs of the coil good/soldered on/any breaks?

Yeah, should be a problem with the coil or driver otherwise ball search in game play would have kicked
the ball up.

To Test to see if it's shorted, Power off the game and set meter to Buzz tone/diode test.
Next, put the black lead on the ground (strap in the backbox will do) then place red probe on the metal tab of transistor. If you get no reading or it buzzes then that transistor is shorted/bad.

Also try placing the red lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the black lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal
Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

There is a switch right under there at that vuk- with the playfield up and in switch test, actvate that switch by hand with your fingers. Is it registering/making a beep on the dmd?

There are mosfet transistors (irl540) that drive the coils , a lot of the time they go bad on vuk on Sega games because its a heavy use. Find the associated mosfet and test it.

Yes they are, technically they can zap out at anytime. Aside from a broken coil lug or wire off the coil, I would first check the connector associated with that VUK, sometimes the wires pull out a little from the connector on Segas and that's all it takes.