(Topic ID: 258054)

Ice Revue Back Glass Issue


By The--Who

65 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 52 days ago by MikeO
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 65 days ago

    I recently purchased a very nice example of Gottlieb’s “Ice Revue”. I cleaned up the play field and replaced the lamps in main cabinet, but didn’t touch the head unit.

    When playing it last night I noticed the “1” did not light up when it turned 1000, so I wanted to replace the bulb. When I released the lever the head unit only swung back about one inch because the glass was bonded to the front of the mechanism unit. At first I thought it had been glued to the unit, but the guy that sold it to me said that there was originally foam between the glass and mechanical that may have bonded the two together.

    Any ideas of what to do? I’m scared to death to mess with the glass.

    #2 65 days ago

    Gently, gently work a putty knife in and around.

    #3 65 days ago

    be mindful of the 2 "L" brackets that may be there that would keep the glass in place when you are able to tilt the back mech board properly

    #4 65 days ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    be mindful of the 2 "L" brackets that may be there that would keep the glass in place when you are able to tilt the back mech board properly

    I figure I’ll have take those two L-brackets off, disconnect the head unit wiring, remove the hinges and the lift the unit all in one piece out of the wedge cabinet. I’ll then have to attempt the putty knife recommendation above. That’s going to wait until after the holidays, since a shattered back glass is not on my Christmas want list.

    On a brighter note, I did contact a guy that makes reproduction back glass and he does have one of these in stock. Only $280.....

    #5 65 days ago
    Quoted from The--Who:

    On a brighter note, I did contact a guy that makes reproduction back glass and he does have one of these in stock. Only $280..

    Just be slow and gentle with the putty knife and don't twist.

    #6 64 days ago

    I would use a plastic putty knife; nothing metal. Luckily, these backglasses don't shatter like the later tempered ones do. They will crack however, but they're pretty sturdy.

    #7 64 days ago

    Agree with the plastic putty knife, but if you can't maybe taping up the surface of the metal putty knife could help to eliminate scratching.

    #8 63 days ago

    I have found that increasing pressure gently pulling the head relay board will release it from the glass. Obviously you have to be comfortable with the pressure you are applying without breaking anything. I have always been able to get them separated with this method.

    Another approach is to take dental floss and loop it between the relay board and the glass and slowly cut through the foam padding.

    Lastly, Ron's glasses are excellent if it comes to it. Ice Revue is one of the best 60's nickel plated post games.

    #9 63 days ago
    Quoted from MikeO:

    I have found that increasing pressure gently pulling the head relay board will release it from the glass. Obviously you have to be comfortable with the pressure you are applying without breaking anything. I have always been able to get them separated with this method.
    Another approach is to take dental floss and loop it between the relay board and the glass and slowly cut through the foam padding.
    Lastly, Ron's glasses are excellent if it comes to it. Ice Review is one of the best 60's nickel plated post games.

    I like the dental floss idea. I’m going to try that first. Thanks!

    #10 63 days ago
    Quoted from The--Who:

    I like the dental floss idea. I’m going to try that first. Thanks! I love my Ice Revue.

    1 week later
    #11 52 days ago

    After finally working up the courage, I got the back glass to pop free tonight. I couldn't get to the front screws off the L-brackets, so I removed the lower hinges, then tilted the bottom of the frame back as far as I could without letting it drop to the base of the head box. Then I was able to go to the front of the glass to feel around the perimeter with my fingers. The bottom and both sides were free, but the top of the glass was still stuck fast. With visions of a new back glass costing me $280, I went around to the back to try my luck. I wedged my fingers between the little bit of glass I could feel and the wood frame, gently applying pressure towards the front of the machine and it left loose. The were three half-inch wide by two-inch long pieces of double-sided sticky foam across the top, one in each corner and one in the middle. They won't peel off without damaging the back glass paint, so I am goin to cut some paper to size and place over them.

    It was a nerve-racking experience that I hope I never have to experience again. Thanks for all your help.

    Denny

    #12 52 days ago
    Quoted from MikeO:

    I have found that increasing pressure gently pulling the head relay board will release it from the glass. Obviously you have to be comfortable with the pressure you are applying without breaking anything. I have always been able to get them separated with this method.
    Another approach is to take dental floss and loop it between the relay board and the glass and slowly cut through the foam padding.
    Lastly, Ron's glasses are excellent if it comes to it. Ice Revue is one of the best 60's nickel plated post games.

    The “gentle pressure “ approach worked.
    See my adventure in post #11 above.

    Thanks for your help,
    Denny

    #13 52 days ago
    Quoted from The-Who:

    The “gentle pressure “ approach worked.
    See my adventure in post #11 above.
    Thanks for your help,
    Denny

    You are very welcome, Denny. I'm glad it worked out for you.

    For what it's worth, I have found a product I am using now to replace the foam padding that the factory originally used. I was able to get it from my local Woodcraft store. I'm finding it is working pretty well after applying it to three different games. It does require removal of all of the leftover deteriorated padding and adhesive backing from the original pads that might reside on head relay board. Obviously, be careful removing any of the residue that remains on your backglass.
    https://www.woodcraft.com/products/felt-tape-brown-3-4-x-25

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