Johnstown, PA
And I’m getting 118v at the power supply now. But I’m still not getting the game to start. No coin up no display no sounds.
(Topic ID: 185732)
Quoted from jcar302:I'm an electrical contractor and I pretty much hate those suitcase connectors on 120v.
If you don't put them on perfect, they either don't close or they destroy the wire.
That’s the first time I’ve used them. They came with the kit for the power supply. Should I remove some cover and solder it in place instead?
1 week later
Anyone know of a source for the playfield hole ball switches? The OEM part number is: 29-00042-001.
"Twisty Wrist Arcade" used to have them; however, they are no longer in stock. Link Below:
https://www.twistywristarcade.com/icb-zeke-s-peke/1092-ice-cold-beer-playfield-hole-switch.html?search_query=ice+cold+beer&results=9
Thanks!
Reykjavik
Picked this up. Didn't think I was going to like it having the tatio & ice versions before. But this is very cool, the joysticks are very responsive to the bar and the play field is always changing which is interesting and the bonus box well it's a big ball!
IMG_2030 (resized).jpgIMG_2031 (resized).jpgI just joined the club last week. I picked up Herk's project from above. I have a thread over on KLOV, but wanted to come on here and see if anyone may have any tips.
The suitcase was off putting incorrect voltages on the 9V line. It looks like the 5v voltage regulator was possibly taken out when it was powered on. There is definitely a short on the PCB.
When powered on w/ game board installed Fuse 1 blows. The reason the switching PS was not coming on was b/c of the short in the game board. PS turns on just fine until the PCB is installed.
If I am reading everything correctly, fuse 1 is the 9V line. Not a ton on there, but still having trouble sourcing the short. I installed a new VR and nothing changed. 9V comes in goes through C67, then the ferrite bead, then C106 and C108 to the VR then passes through C122 to TP. These all seem fine.
Anyway, I want to order up some parts to rebuild the suitcase, does anyone have a good source for the BR 3 and 4 on there? Also in case I can't sort this out on my own, does anyone on Pinside repair these?
1 month later
Quoted from Trizel:Is anyone selling or know of an ice cold beer arcade being sold? Please pm me.
What pinballs do u have? Anything to trade?
1 week later
1 week later
Looking to trade my Congo for a ICB by Tatio. PM me if interested. Must be with in driving distance of Richmond VA
1 week later
Quoted from Skyemont:Where can I order belts for this piece of crap?
[quoted image]
1 week later
An Taito Ice Cold Beer just sold at Captain’s Auction in Anaheim, Ca. for $6875. Not in great condition either. So, I just listed my collector condition Ice Cold Beer for $6000 if anyone is interested. Save almost $900!
Quoted from KevinG:An Taito Ice Cold Beer just sold at Captain’s Auction in Anaheim, Ca. for $6875. Not in great condition either. So, I just listed my collector condition Ice Cold Beer for $6000 if anyone is interested. Save almost $900!
How magnanimous of you.
Quoted from Sunny1989:I just listed mine at $3500
[quoted image]
This should sell quick.
Quoted from Skyemont:This should sell quick.
Yeah I bought it.
Anyone know where I could get a replacement rod/side rods? Mine snapped on one of the screws that connects the center bar to the white plastic piece, so I jerry-rigged in a small screw and nut to reattach it, but now I'm having all sorts of issues with the sides not rising/not connecting with the microswitches on the top and bottom/being too tight against the playfield. Basically this is reminding me why I don't mess with pinball...
Quoted from nelfichu:Anyone know where I could get a replacement rod/side rods? Mine snapped on one of the screws that connects the center bar to the white plastic piece, so I jerry-rigged in a small screw and nut to reattach it, but now I'm having all sorts of issues with the sides not rising/not connecting with the microswitches on the top and bottom/being too tight against the playfield. Basically this is reminding me why I don't mess with pinball...
I’d like this info too!
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from Kizmitt:I’d like this info too!
There was a guy on KLOV that had made some and was selling them.
Quoted from jcar302:Post a picture, i'm not totally sure the parts you are speaking of.
Can't get a pic at the moment, but literally the metal rod the bar rolls on, plus the two metal rods on either side that the moving rod connects to.
I'll hunt around KLOV and see if I can find this guy who was repro-ing them.
Quoted from TaTa:Does anybody in the Philadelphia area know one for sale? Or is willing to part with theirs?
It's rare they come up for sale in our area. When they do, they move quickly or sell privately.
I do have my days that I feel could give it up, but it would have to be a really solid offer or a very generous trade.
Quoted from TaTa:Does anybody in the Philadelphia area know one for sale? Or is willing to part with theirs?
I would be willing to move mine but I’m in MA. Distance may be too far. Would be looking for $3300.
Quoted from gutz:If you don't have the two grey door setup (which is Taito arcade style doors) the single black door is a coin co door that was used on many pinball and arcade games around that same time. You can't buy them new, but should be able to find them used.
Quoted from jp1985:Any idea if the coin co door came with the game?
Yes. The coinco door came with the game and has a hanging coin box inside the machine. The earlier (i believe) games had two separate doors, an upper coin door and a lower coin vault door (to collect from). The two door setup was what some taito video games were using at the time.
Quoted from gutz:Yes. The coinco door came with the game and has a hanging coin box inside the machine. The earlier (i believe) games had two separate doors, an upper coin door and a lower coin vault door (to collect from). The two door setup was what some taito video games were using at the time.
Yes I have the coinco with the hanging box. I also have a freeplay and ticket dispenser switch.
New to the club. It's going to be a pretty big project, as it's been sitting since the mid-80's.
So my question is where should I start? Once I get inside the game (I'm going to have to drill the lock), is there any test procedures to perform before turning it on? I'm used to classic Bally SS games, and disconnection driver boards & mpu's so that you can check voltages, etc. But I'm not sure if any of this applies to ICB?
It'll be a few days before I can get at it, but I'm hoping to have a strategy for when I start on it.
ICB (resized).JPGQuoted from djblouw:New to the club. It's going to be a pretty big project, as it's been sitting since the mid-80's.
So my question is where should I start? Once I get inside the game (I'm going to have to drill the lock), is there any test procedures to perform before turning it on? I'm used to classic Bally SS games, and disconnection driver boards & mpu's so that you can check voltages, etc. But I'm not sure if any of this applies to ICB?
It'll be a few days before I can get at it, but I'm hoping to have a strategy for when I start on it.
[quoted image]
There’s really not a lot of moving parts on these. If you’re proficient with classic SS pins this should be a breeze.
Looks like it’s in nice shape, just needs a good cleaning.
Maybe recap the power supply, or if you want put the arcade shop switching power supply in it and not worry about it.
These are nice because they come with a daughter board that uses the original connector. Very convenient and easy.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1182/taito-ice-cold-beer-zekes-peak-power-supply-kit.htm
You will definitely need new rubbers for the pulleys.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/63-00165-001
Other than that and cleaning, there’s not a lot to it. It’s basicaly a big plastic mold on the revers that’s similar to a Pinball subway. You just need to make sure all the switches are working.
Especially the ones for the up and down movement in attract mode. If one of those switches is out of alignment or broken it will burn out your rubber belts very quickly.
Leveling the game is important.
If it’s not level the ball can get stuck in the back of the game (subway) or will not feed out correctly in the ball return.
Pretty easy game to work on.
Quoted from Coindork:There’s really not a lot of moving parts on these. If you’re proficient with classic SS pins this should be a breeze.
Looks like it’s in nice shape, just needs a good cleaning.
Maybe recap the power supply, or if you want put the arcade shop switching power supply in it and not worry about it.
These are nice because they come with a daughter board that uses the original connector. Very convenient and easy.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1182/taito-ice-cold-beer-zekes-peak-power-supply-kit.htm
You will definitely need new rubbers for the pulleys.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/63-00165-001
Other than that and cleaning, there’s not a lot to it. It’s basicaly a big plastic mold on the revers that’s similar to a Pinball subway. You just need to make sure all the switches are working.
Especially the ones for the up and down movement in attract mode. If one of those switches is out of alignment or broken it will burn out your rubber belts very quickly.
Leveling the game is important.
If it’s not level the ball can get stuck in the back of the game (subway) or will not feed out correctly in the ball return.
Pretty easy game to work on.
Thanks for the input. Sounds like I should be okay just going through it normally. And yes, I will most likely put in the switching power supply, as its a better solution to the linear supply.
The bottom of the cabinet took some damage (from sitting on concrete for 35 years), so I'll have to address that before being able to level it.
Quoted from djblouw:Thanks for the input. Sounds like I should be okay just going through it normally. And yes, I will most likely put in the switching power supply, as its a better solution to the linear supply.
The bottom of the cabinet took some damage (from sitting on concrete for 35 years), so I'll have to address that before being able to level it.
Congrats on the pickup by the way.
We love ours.
Gets a ton of play at parties.
EF1008C5-7C34-4591-AE61-42121AB8D800 (resized).jpegQuoted from gutz:Not my photos, but they're worth 2000 words.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Way overpriced for what they are, can't believe someone has not started reproducing or have come out with their own version yet.
Quoted from pfinny:Way overpriced for what they are, can't believe someone has not started reproducing or have come out with their own version yet.
Well they are extremely fun and still one of the most played games in my entire arcade, so there is a lot of value in that.
7F2C483C-E762-4AF6-AB22-8FB64ED9874B (resized).jpegQuoted from Waldo:Well they are extremely fun and still one of the most played games in my entire arcade, so there is a lot of value in that.[quoted image]
Exactly. I love my ICB and Zekes Peak.
Quoted from pfinny:Way overpriced for what they are, can't believe someone has not started reproducing or have come out with their own version yet.
ICE did make an update in 2003 which was way better than the Taito. Then Toccata made Rock-n-roll Verti-Go which has an lcd screen. I have owned all of these and the ICE is the best but given how easy these are does it really matter? Once you master it well, it's boring n turns into look at me i'm a dumbass that has mastered putting a small ball in a hole which makes me great! In the end the taito version wins out for whatever hipster reason. I have the rock-n-roll vertigo currently and like the prior 2....... i'm bored 
Notice how everyone says it's a hit when people are over......translation "I have mastered it and impress my guests" they like watching me 
Quoted from Skyemont:Anyone have a website to order switches and parts for ICB and ZP?
Which switches and parts are you looking for?
The micro switches in the back for up down? Ball return?
I’ve found that parts for this are more readily available on arcade sites rather than pinball sites.
The switches probably won’t be tagged as ICB specific on those sites, just suitable replacement for part number.
EDIT: This is now spoken for.
I have one of the reproduction ICB plastic display plates if anyone can use it.
They did a run of these a couple years back and I never used it because my original is nice enough.
Screen printed, nice quality repro.
A few hairline scratches on the plastic, but pretty damn nice and not really noticeable.
$25 shipped if anyone wants it.
If not I’ll post in in the marketplace.
Shoot me a PM (first come first serve).
498CEF15-4FD8-4813-B623-4D986A5138F5 (resized).jpeg15100FFF-F9BE-4135-98B8-AB887C29AAFF (resized).jpeg
Moe
Quoted from Coindork:EDIT: This is now spoken for.
I have one of the reproduction ICB plastic display plates if anyone can use it.
They did a run of these a couple years back and I never used it because my original is nice enough.
Screen printed, nice quality repro.
A few hairline scratches on the plastic, but pretty damn nice and not really noticeable.
$25 shipped if anyone wants it.
If not I’ll post in in the marketplace.
Shoot me a PM (first come first serve).
[quoted image][quoted image]
PM sent.
Quoted from Coindork:Which switches and parts are you looking for?
The micro switches in the back for up down? Ball return?
I’ve found that parts for this are more readily available on arcade sites rather than pinball sites.
The switches probably won’t be tagged as ICB specific on those sites, just suitable replacement for part number.
The motor switch. Zekes Peak artwork. Not just the side art. But with wood grain part as well.
Quoted from jcar302:It's rare they come up for sale in our area. When they do, they move quickly or sell privately.
I do have my days that I feel could give it up, but it would have to be a really solid offer or a very generous trade.
They are not rare they made a lot of them, back in the 90,s a lot of them probably went to the landfill nobody wanted them was lucky to get 200.00 for them at a game auction back then it wasn’t until pinball started getting popular that prices shot up on them when demand started going up the supply wasn’t there since a lot of them got trashed 10 to 15 years earlier
Quoted from pfinny:They are not rare they made a lot of them, back in the 90,s a lot of them probably went to the landfill nobody wanted them was lucky to get 200.00 for them at a game auction back then it wasn’t until pinball started getting popular that prices shot up on them when demand started going up the supply wasn’t there since a lot of them got trashed 10 to 15 yearsearlier
Do you own one?
Quoted from Skyemont:The motor switch. Zekes Peak artwork. Not just the side art. But with wood grain part as well.
Hmmmmmm.
I’m not sure where you would get new repro art to restore a Zeke’s Peak.
I just looked at all the normal arcade art sites like Phoenixarcade, thisoldgame and escapepod and none seem to sell it.
You might have to scan it and clean it up in photoshop if no one prints it.
If you do that sites like escape pod or game on graphics will print them for you. It won’t be screen printed, but it’s better than nothing and not bad. Also if you do that, make sure you supply them with exact measurements for when they print the files or it may not be one to one.
As far as the wood grain goes, most people just use wood grain laminate.
Same goes for things like cabarets and early black and white arcade games with wood grain sides. Just find a grain pattern that closely resembles what’s on the actual cab.
I think ZP is probably rarer than ICB by about 10-1 which is probably why the normal repro art places haven’t done the art yet, because the demand probably isn’t big enough.
ebay.com link: Taito Zekes Peak arcade pinball Sideart ice cold beer arcade
here is the link to the side art for sale on ebay
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