I'm in

Hello Guys & Gals... I have an original, complete ICB control panel (fully populated; switches and joystick).

I don't need it and was curious if it's something others would need / want and what a fair price would be for it.

Thanks
Kerry Richard

Is this correct? Seems too simple

I would disassemble and rivet.
or if that proved difficult a Flat shoulder screw, locktite, and a nut, as long as there was no rubbing on the playfield, or other
parts.

There would be rubbing.

Maybe drill through rod, then install phillips head machine screw from playfield side (can grind flatter if necessary for clearance) and then put a nylok nut on the front which wont have to be tightened flush and can allow a small gap for rod to swivel freely.

Or, if there's not enough clearance for that put a rivet through from the back and drill a hole through the front side of the rivet shaft and secure with a cotter pin.

Ive also threaded a rivet, and used a 1mm thickness nut with success on an Ice cold Beer.

Certainly check clearance, as there are slight differences in depth, depending on manufacturing differences

Yes, for many hardware store type bolts, I agree.
I have skycraft near me, which has surplus stuff from who knows where.
My apologies. My success has been from them, and this was around 30 years ago, when I had
3 of them.

Nothing wrong with trying fishing line, worth a try.

The last connection like this I did yesterday on a Diverter in back of Roadshow.
There was no way to repair without removing the playfield.
I used a bent paper clip.....Fishing line would have worked too, if I could have reached to tie a knot.

Does anybody have any details on the ticket machine that fits into these to spit out a ticket if you sink a ball into 10 holes and if there may be an alternate generic unit that could be fitted into the game?

I was asked for some picts of my ICB control panel... here are a couple:

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How much?

I have had 4 guys ask about it today... $200? OBO

Just finishing this one up:

IMG_5910 (resized).jpg

Rivet!

So I decided to rivet the arm back on after seeing that the original rivet is really shallow, using a longer rivet should help the situation for several years in home use...

Doing anything with bolts and nuts has the potential to rub the glass and or the playfield, fishing line seems like an easy fix. Oh well, I just decided to do it this way
C6D28A48-E2B1-4600-9F2E-DECACC8E59F7 (resized).jpegC8899F86-E824-46B9-85C6-9CD0171AD0C7 (resized).jpegCCE8BEC2-2569-47BA-8D61-84165A3CEC99 (resized).jpeg

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement plastic that goes over the score/tilt area?

Still making progress...........

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Still Looking for a wiring harness for the Taito version. I am not looking forward to making one up.

Awesome work Witnee There are quite a few of us hoping you will turn your hand to making a short run of these games available to purchase.

What size is the ball on ice cold beer arcade

The ball on ice cold beer Arcade , ICB , Zeke’s Peak Arcade game is 5/8”

You can order them from Marcospecialties.com, or from eBay

I was working on an ICB in my garage and my 8year old son put the new ball in his pocket and now that ball is history, ordered some from eBay, back in business. I’m posting this way because google will now point ICB searches to this info and thread should anyone need it in the future

Witnee

Great success on this project, again my question:
Will you share the code / informations how to build a bar version ?

Thanks
Tom

Is there anyone that repairs the main board. The one I have has been worked on before, but I see a few problems with it.

Thanks

My friend john@ GameboardsUSA.com

So no good replacement motors have surfaced huh?

Thank you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taito-ice-cold-beer-tilt-game-over-panel-remake#post-3471782

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/59-00063-001

Unfortunately those are not good for ICB as they have a long lag in start-up that completely throws gameplay off.

Did this one end up at the Double Bull?

Really? I just installed 4 of these! They seem to work fine, are they really that bad???

Thank you. Contacted...and no longer making them.

Unfortunately, not ever going to happen. It takes DAYS to just print the 3d printed parts! I just dismantled my sacrificial prototype full size playfield. Taking it apart took several hours. I forgot how many wires and fasteners were involved!

Pair of motors up on Ebay now.

I have started a "how-to" guide. Not finished yet. PM me and I'll send you what I have so far, to give you an idea how complicated this build is.

Did you play the game with the original motors and then with those new motors? It's night and day.

Well that's incredibly frustrating...I clicked buy it now, proceeded to check out out, then when I clicked confirm and pay it said they were now unavailable. Sold in the minute it took me to check-out.

Yes, just brought in there yesterday.

I just installed two of them and they feel the same to me. I thought they would be quieter than the originals since the housings are closed and the originals are open but they seem just as loud. My originals were working but I wanted new ones just so I could keep the originals as spares. Who knows when the replacements won't be available any more.

You don't feel the pronounced lag that it takes the motor to start up and get to normal speed? With the original motors you press the joystick and the motor immediately moves at full speed. The Marco motors you press the joystick and there is both a slight pause and *then* it moves incrementally until reaching full speed. It's easily noticeable if you only replace one motor - one side of the ICB bar will be moving sooner and more quickly than the other.

Is it the motors or the gears that is the difference or is it a little of both?

Mine are smooth as silk, no lag at all. Maybe different batches or a new supplier?

It's possible I guess. If you don't mind snapping a picture of yours, I can compare it to the ones I got from them several years ago.

I took a video of what I'm talking about. The Marco replacement motors are a different speed/sensitivity from the originals, yet strangely it's only *one* direction that has this issue. Spinning the replacement motor one direction works like normal, but the other direction does not start out at full speed, taking a beat to actually get moving. Because ICB is a game where you are constantly stop/starting this throws things off considerably.

Here is the vid (watch with sound on):

It begins with me lightly tapping on the joystick and the motor turning the "fast/instant" direction a decent amount each tap. Contrast that with a bit later when I start tapping the joystick the other direction, and you see it barely moves with each tap by comparison.

Here you go:

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Do your motors display the behavior shown in the video I posted above?

No they do not. Looks like it's time to crack that case open. I would imagine you can drill out the rivets and replace them with screws and locknuts.

I ordered new ones just in case, but I'm thinking now that that's just how these new ones were designed - the gears are set up so only one direction makes them turn instantly, whereas the other direction has all the play/backlash which creates that lag between the motor starting and the shaft actually turning. I think maybe people just don't notice it because they replace both motors at the same time, and/or never really spent much time playing on the original motors.

Looking to join the club if anyone is selling

Also interested in joining the club if anyone wants to sell let me know.

Thanks

Pimped her out with a raised letter coin door from a taito video arcade machine.

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When I got my Taito ICB years ago, I was fortunate to get it with a backup main board, which I sadly needed too soon... the game started blowing a fuse when you used one of the motors. With the other board in, the game is fine, so I don't think there is a fault with the motor at least. (It was a 6A fuse, would have been F1 or F2.)

The bad board has been put away for ages, but I would like to fix it. I'm not sure how to begin diagnosing the problem though. It looks like shorted BRs are implicated in some fuse issues on this game, maybe I should start there?

I thought about the motor drive transistors too, but don't transistors usually fail open? In my case, the fuse stays alive until the motor is in use.

Since it's been forever since this occurred, I can't recall if it happened when moving up, down, or both -- I will have to start over and take notes... but would love some ideas if you have any.