A horror indeed! I love this pin.
The contacts in the cord and the contact in the cabinet it connects to look nice and shiny. I checked power at the voltage at the service plug and its 121.4V which is exactly what I get at the wall socket.
I remembered wrong. It is the F112 solenoid secondary fuse that blew. F111 is fine. Also the main line filter fuse was blown and this is of course why the game shut down dead. I replaced it and left the f112 blown fuse in rather than replace it at this point. It fires up just fine. Of course no solenoids or flashers.
One thing to note. This is apparently a re-import. The sticker inside states it runs on 230V and it has a 5A SB fuse rather than the 8A fuse listed for domestic games. 5A slow blow is listed for the foreign game. Not sure if I should replace with a regular 8A fuse since its been converted or leave it alone. Better to be under fused than over and its not blown before.
As far as LEDs on the driver board; There are 4 of them and all are lit solid. I reseated all the connectors for the solenoids (j107, j122, j126, j127, j130, j902, j907). All look proper adn were seated well. All the contacts and connectors look shiny. However when I got to GI connectors J120 looks fine but J121 has been hacked (before me). I know I need to replace this and put on a new connector. I believe I have the correct tools to do this as I anticipated in the past I will probably end up needing to do this one day. However my GI is working fine. Would this be a culprit to the F112 and line filter fuse blowing?
A bit more inspection and the boards are very snug and screwed in tightly so they are not loose from their mounts. BR 3 and 4 look as if they have gotten warm over time. Can be seen in the pictures I'm including as well as pic of the hacked molex J121 and pics of the board with LED's lit. The flash makes it hard to tell but yes the LED's are lit solid.
I really dont want to replace the F112 fuse until I can figure out what is going on.
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