Maybe could try the blank dome top daisy caps, and use a water slide decal for the replacement lettering.
Maybe could try the blank dome top daisy caps, and use a water slide decal for the replacement lettering.
Quoted from wayout440:I don't think I'll be able to locate exact replacements
I've been looking for these caps for my Double Action, and they are the only ones I've never been able to find. I've found many that are close, but not the right style with exactly the right wording. Pinball Resource has as close to a match as I've ever found.
I don't know if anything specific to your pin is available but these guys have woodrail parts that others don't. Check it out.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/index.html
Thanks for the suggestions, appreciated.
I have a question about the manual ball loader. It seems like there is way too much play in there. It has a bushing, but the mech seems sloppy, like there is way too much space there. Can these be improved? I'm not familiar with the servicing of these so I don't even know what would be considered normal.
Short of replacing the push rod and it's bushing not much. That game got it's share of use back in the day. As long as you get the ball to the shooter lane each time you're good to go.
Quoted from MikeO:Short of replacing the push rod and it's bushing not much. That game got it's share of use back in the day. As long as you get the ball to the shooter lane each time you're good to go.
Got it. Thanks!
Quoted from peclark:Here's the relays in the bottom of the machine. I had some labels missing as well, but I think I was able to identify them correctly. Hope this helps!
Thanks for posting these pics! I got a 1961 Gottlieb Liberty Belle, and dead relays that are not labeled. After work I will be looking and comparing your notes to my machine.
I believe Clay shows a technique of using the bushing from the 'off' switch (the one you pound from the bottom of the cabinet) as a replacement for the manual ball load plunger. I think I was able to get a new spring from pinball resource as well. This, and some polishing, fixed up mine real nice.
Quoted from DirtFlipper:Maybe could try the blank dome top daisy caps, and use a water slide decal for the replacement lettering.
I got the blank caps from PBR. Still need to do waterslide decals, and would like to do those concurrently with the insert black keyline circles at one shot when I can get to it. I can reproduce the keyline circles well enough, it's reproducing the curved text on the pop caps that is a problem.
pf.jpg image-1.jpgLooking good! I can't remember if I mentioned or not - bgresto.com did a backglass for me if you need one - http://bgresto.com/pics/gtb_doubleaction2s.jpg
Quoted from funtimewithdave:Thanks for posting these pics! I got a 1961 Gottlieb Liberty Belle, and dead relays that are not labeled. After work I will be looking and comparing your notes to my machine.
Glad to help. Let me know if you need any more. I'd be glad to post additional info.
Quoted from peclark:Looking good! I can't remember if I mentioned or not - bgresto.com did a backglass for me if you need one - http://bgresto.com/pics/gtb_doubleaction2s.jpg
Yes I saw that, and thank you - because they will have the art on file from yours already.
WOW! This thing really turned out great and sounds awesome! Glad you put a black bell in there with the silver (brass) bell. Nice variations! The stripped would looks awesome! Very nice wood rail!
Joe
Quoted from jodini:WOW! This thing really turned out great and sounds awesome! Glad you put a black bell in there with the silver (brass) bell. Nice variations! The stripped would looks awesome! Very nice wood rail!
Joe
Thanks, Joe. The black bell is actually the 1-point bell, and the plated silver is the 10-point bell - each has a slightly different tone. There's also a big 5" 100 point bell down in the cabinet.
Oh, I know! Many of the EM's that I have restored, I normally take one of the plated bells out and put the black bell in...GIGI, World Champ, ect...I just like those different tones.
Great find BTW. Looks like that thing has a lot of fun action going on! Congrats!
Joe
btw...does anyone know how to get the backglass out? I need to take the backglass frame off to refinish the wood as well. I can fold down the backbox electronics using the lever on top, from there it won't come out because the backbox frame corner supports are in the way...or am I just overlooking something?
Quoted from wayout440:btw...does anyone know how to get the backglass out? I need to take the backglass frame off to refinish the wood as well. I can fold down the backbox electronics using the lever on top, from there it won't come out because the backbox frame corner supports are in the way...or am I just overlooking something?
Safest way is to remove the whole backbox insert panel. Otherwise there typically isn't enough of an angle to get the backglass out.
What a difference in those colors! My original paint was faded and yellowed that much as well. Much worse than even earlier Gottlieb machines I have.
Quoted from peclark:What a difference in those colors! My original paint was faded and yellowed that much as well. Much worse than even earlier Gottlieb machines I have.
Yeah, actually this was the result of a "happy accident". The lighter blue color was supposed to be a very, very light sky blue. I wanted to use something I had on hand, so I used a sky blue rattlecan I had, but it was a latex paint. The coverage on the rough surface of the wood was very poor, a lot of white showed. Rather than attempt to hit it again with spray, I just mixed up a couple of the colors of touch up acrylics until I got a reasonably acceptable shade of blue I liked and bulk retouched it by hand with a brush. From 6 feet away or with a camera it's acceptable. I figured anything is an improvement over what it was.
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