Sorry didn’t mean to highjack your restoration thread! I got them rebuilt. Combo of Williams EOS switches with fishpaper taken from the PBR switch. Just like Vid’s guide suggests.
Quoted from Mathazar:
mrm_4 - how did you paint your saucer black....spray, brush, or both? I like the look and before I put down a hardtop on my MH, I'm thinking of painting mine black as well.
Funny story about that... it actually came from an accident I had when I started sanding the arch. There was a piece of the pf splintered at the top and I tried to sand it out and made things worse.
Like most of my ideas, I get frustrated and jump to the extreme. I decided to paint the arch area black and with that decision I painted the saucer too.
To answer your question I did everything with a brush. You cant tell because of the 800 coats of clear. But I did this restoration before knowing airbrushing was better or knowing of waterslide decals. Would love to go back in time and tell myself to do things differently but I’m still happy with this machine.
I love the black saucer look. I say go for it, arcane is the only one I know that did it after seeing mine, so I say join our club. Just make sure you clear it afterward.
Since my name was mentioned in the previous post, let me tell how I did mine.
After careful sanding of the hole and putting putty wherever it needs to go, I used black Gesso which is acrylic based and is used to prepare artist canvas before painting a masterpiece. The Gesso was applied with a soft brush. The good stuff about Gesso is that it levels perfectly (you may need to thin it with a little bit of water before brushing it), dries with a very deep matte and total absence of brush marks. Of course, as Matt indicated it, you need to clear coat it as it is not solid enough to withstand the shocks of the ball.
mrm_4 / arcane - looking for advice on how to address this. I had really nasty, dirty ball tracks up the shooter and across the arc at the top of the playfield. Between Novus 2 elbow grease, magic eraser, and sanding down with my orbital I got it to he point where it's nice and smooth to the touch, but traces of the ball track are seen as white (plus in some areas where I sanded, it's also a little white). After wiping down with naphtha, it looks much better but after a few minutes of evaporation, it's back to white. Is wiping with naphtha and indication of how it will look after applying clear? Will applying poly help with the coloration?
Here's what it looks like before naphtha and after it evaporates:
Quoted from Mathazar:
Here's what it looks like a few seconds after applying naphtha:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Might want to sand the surrounding areas more to make them match. Or use lacquer thinner on the wood to see if you can get the rest of the top coat off. Maybe even get a blonde-ish colored matching wood stain to see if that would help and just restrain all the barewood.
Honestly the pics with the naphtha don’t look that bad.
I might be the wrong person to ask haha. I freaked out and painted it all.
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